Full text of "Lake Ngami; or, Explorations and discoveries during four years' wanderings in the wilds of southwestern Africa"

ill 



LAKE NGAMI 



HA* 



OR, 



EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES 



DURING 



FOUR YEARS' WANDERINGS IN THE WILDS 



SOUTH WESTERN AFRICA. 



\j \ -r" i BY 

•6HAELES JOTNANDERSSON. 

BY 

JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 

REPRESENTING SPORTING ADVENTURES, SUBJECTS OP NATURAL HISTORY, DEVICES '*f ARH|8 
FOR DESTROYING WILD ANIMALS, ETC. 

NEW YOEK: 

DIX, EDWARDS & CO., 321 BROADWAT. 

LONDON: HURST & BLACKETT. 

1857. 




Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1856, by 

DIX, EDWARDS & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern 

District of New York. 



John F. Tkow, 

Printer, Stereotyper, and Electrotype)-, 

377 & 379 Broadway, 

Cor. White Street, New York. 



MA* 






A LETTER 



JOHN CHARLES FREMONT 



New York, Nov. 15, 1856. 

Gentlemen : — I willingly comply with your request ; for I 
have no doubt that, in publishing an American edition of Mr. 
Andersson's valuable work, you will render an acceptable ser- 
vice to the cause of geographical knowledge. I am but too 
happy to do what I can to extend either the fame or the 
influence of his labors. It is impossible that the record of his 
strange and important experiences should not, everywhere, be 
received with favor. Particularly by Americans, whom a spirit 
of intelligent and adventurous curiosity has sent abroad over 
all the earth, will it be read with congenial and appreciative 
interest. 

It is needless for me to say that I read such books as this of 
Mr. Andersson's with a peculiar pleasure, greatly enhanced by 
old associations. Familiar — although, perhaps, in an inferior 
degree — with similar "wanderings," I find, in the brief record 
of a night, or the journey of a day, many unwritten things — 
much that the traveler afterward thought unworthy of men- 
tion, but which, at the time, filled his mind and heart. Nights 
of sleepless anxiety, and days of wearing doubt or despondency, 
crowd the unwritten page ; often a chance word suggests trains 
of incidents and circumstances, which do not come under the 
eye of the general reader. But, aside from the attractions of 
personal sympathy, these books possess a charm for me which, 
I confess, I do not find in any other department of literature. 



VI LETTER FROM JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. 

It hardly occurs to our minds, that the thousands of years 
which have rolled away, impressed with the infinite activity of 
the human race, have not sufficed to make known to us our own 
habitation. We have extended our researches into other worlds, 
material and spiritual, but have not yet made ourselves ac- 
quainted with the earth on which we tread. 

In these latter days, new and grand pictures have been dis- 
played to our minds, giving a wider field to the imagination. 
That primeval darkness which hung over the waters of the cir- 
cumpolar sea, and obscured the interior of Africa, has vanished 
before the generous courage of Kane, and the brave endurance 
of Barth and his companions. Many, before them, were called 
to the noble task ; but the glorious fruition of the chosen few 
was long delayed. We give our heart-felt admiration to the men 
who have penetrated the night of ages, and, in bringing its se- 
crets to the light, have uncovered the graves of their brave 
predecessors who perished under the fevered noon of Africa and 
the frozen night of the Polar Sea. 

Remote, uncertain, beset with uncommon and undefined dan- 
gers, these journeys, like that from whose undiscovered bourne 
no traveler returns, seemed to fascinate with a mysterious charm. 
The dangerous path had always its travelers. One by one, they 
disappeared from the horizon of our knowledge ; but unrecorded 
deaths, and regal prohibitions, the regretful sympathy of nations 
for brave lives thrown away, all were ineffectual to chill the 
enthusiasm which urged new followers into their devoted path. 

" Death's couriers, Fame and Honor, called them to the field again." 

Those adventurers who had the physical strength and good for- 
tune to go safely through their enterprises, from whatever field 
they returned, found ever a cordial welcome, and a deep and 
prevailing interest in the records of their experience. At no 
period of the world's history has this interest in explorations 
been more universal and active than at the present time. The 
recent important geographical discoveries, which may be con- 
sidered to have very appropriately closed the brilliant era of the 
last thirty years, have roused public curiosity to an unusual 



LETTER FROM JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. Vll 

degree. To quote the language of an eloquent writer of our 
own day, himself a distinguished traveler — Mr. Bayard Taylor : 
" One by one, the outposts of barbarism are stormed and car- 
ried, advanced parallels are thrown up, and the besieging lines 
of knowledge, which, when once established, can never be re- 
taken, are gradually closing round the yet unconquered mys- 
teries of the globe." 

Of these many movements of exploration, none, certainly, 
have evoked a stronger zeal, or given occasion for nobler displays 
of energy and endurance, or are likely to lead to more signal 
consequences, than those which have been directed toward the 
great African continent. That vast, populous, and fertile region, 
over which the profoundest mystery has brooded from the earli- 
est time, which was known to the ancients only for a short 
distance along the shores of the Mediterranean and Red seas, 
and which, up to a recent day, has resisted" all the efforts of 
modern enterprise to penetrate beyond the skirts of its coasts, is 
now becoming accessible, and, in a few years, will have revealed 
to us all its secrets and its treasure. 

The recent premature death, on the field of their labors, ot 
several eminent African discoverers, has awakened public sym- 
pathy, and, together with the interesting results of their re- 
searches, has turned attention in that direction and induced a 
general disposition to be better informed in regard to the coun- 
try. On this account Mr. Andersson's narrative will be parti- 
cularly acceptable. His labors were directed to the same 
general object, and belonged to the same epoch as that body 
of explorers whose efforts have almost succeeded in throwing 
open the whole interior of Africa. A narrow belt, of ten or 
fifteen degrees of latitude, is all that separates the fields of the 
northern and southern explorers — all that shuts out from our 
scope of view the entire African continent. The darkness, 
which for so many centuries has been gathered about this divi- 
sion of the globe, is almost dispelled ; and it is not an unfound- 
ed anticipation which expects to see Africa traversed from Cape 
Colony to Tripoli within the next ten years. Should this prob- 
lem be finally solved, and the conjecture of Mr. Andersson, 



Vlll LETTER FROM JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. 

that the immense and rich interior of the country is pierced by 
a fine navigable water, be realized, we may expect such an 
advance in the civilization and commerce of Africa as will give 
to it a real place in the society of nations, and a sense of com- 
pleteness to our own ideas of the globe. 

Very respectfully, Gentlemen, 

Your obedient servant, 

J. C. Fremont. 
Messrs. Dix, Edwards & Co. 



PREFACE 

TO THE ENGLISH EDITION 



The following Narrative of Explorations and Discoveries during 
four years in the wilds of the Southwestern parts of Africa, con- 
tains an account of two expeditions on that continent between 
the years 1850 and 1854. In the first of these journeys, the 
countries of the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Europe) 
and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognita) were explored ; 
in the second, the newly-discovered Lake Ngami was reached 
by a route that had always been deemed impracticable. It is 
more than probable that this route (the shortest and best) will 
be adopted as the one by which commerce and civilization may 
eventually find their way to the Lake regions. 

The first journey was performed in company with Mr. Francis 
Galton, to whom we are indebted for a work on " Tropical 
South Africa ;" on the second, the Author was alone, and al- 
together dependent on his own very scanty resources. 

It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first journey, 
that from the ground having been preoccupied, it would be best 
for him to commence where his friend left off. There was some 
reason for this. But, on mature consideration, he deemed it de- 
sirable to start from the beginning ; otherwise he could not have 
given a connected and detailed account of the regions he visited. 
Moreover, from the Author having remained two years longer 
in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only been enabled to as- 
certain the truth respecting much that at first appeared obscure 



PREFACE. 



and doubtful, but has had many opportunities of enlarging the 
stock of information acquired by himself and friend when to- 
gether. Besides, they were often separated for long periods, 
during which many incidents and adventures occurred to the 
Author that are scarcely alluded to in " Tropical South Africa." 
And, lastly, the impressions received by different individuals, 
even under similar circumstances, are generally found to vary 
greatly ; which, in itself, would be a sufficient reason for the 
course the Author has decided on pursuing. 

As will be seen, the present writer has not only described the 
general appearance of the regions he visited, but has given the 
best information he was able to collect of the geological features 
of the country, and of its probable mineral wealth ; and, slight 
though it may be, he had the gratification of finding that the 
hints he threw out at the Cape and elsewhere, were acted upon ; 
that mining companies were formed, and that mining operations 
are now carried on to some extent in regions heretofore consid- 
ered utterly worthless. 

The Author has also spoken, at some length, of the religion 
and manners and customs of such of the native tribes (previously 
all but unknown to Europeans) visited by him during his seve- 
ral journeys. He also noted many of their superstitions ; for, 
too much attention, as has been truly observed, cannot be paid 
to the mythological traditions of savages. Considerable discre- 
tion is, of course, needful in this matter ; as, if every portion 
were to be literally received, we might be led into grievous 
errors. Still, by attending to what many might call absurd 
superstitions, we not only attain to a knowledge of the mental 
tendencies of the natives, but are made acquainted with inter- 
esting facts touching the geographical distribution of men and 
inferior animals. 

Since the different members constituting the brute creation 
are so intimately connected with the economy of man, and since 
many of the beasts and birds, indigenous to those parts of Africa 
visited by the Author, are still but imperfectly known, he has 
thought it advisable to enter largely into their habits, etc. ; the 
rather, as natural history has, from childhood, been his favorite 



PREFACE. XI 

pursuit, and is a subject with which he therefore feels conversant. 
And though part of what he has stated regarding the rhinoceros, 
the hippopotamus, the koodoo, the ostrich, and others of the 
almost incalculable varieties of animals found in the African wil- 
derness, may be known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that 
the general reader will find matter he has not previously met 
with. 

The Author has endeavored in the following pages, faithfully, 
and in plain and unassuming language, to record his experiences, 
impressions, feelings, and impulses, under circumstances often 
peculiarly trying. He lays claims to no more credit than may 
attach to an earnest desire to make himself useful, and to fur- 
ther the cause of science. 

It is more than probable that his career as an explorer and 
pioneer to civilization and commerce is terminated. Still, he 
would fain hope that his humble exertions may not be without 
their fruits. 

When he first arrived in Africa, he generally traveled on foot 
throughout the whole of the day, regardless of heat, and almost 
scorning the idea of riding on horseback, or using any other 
mode of conveyance. Indeed, he was wont to vie with the 
natives in endurance ; but now, owing to the severe hardships he 
has undergone, his constitution is undermined, and the founda- 
tion of a malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with 
him to the day of his death. Yet, such is the perverseness of 
human nature, that, did circumstances permit, he would return 
to this life of trial and privation. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 

1. Lions pulling down Giraffe. 

2. Malay 5 

3. View of Walfisch Bay . . 10 

4. Damaras 38 

5. Hill-Damara Pipe ... 61 

6. The Lucky Escape ... 84 

7. Shooting Trap 97 

8. Fan-Palm 127 

9. OvamboPipe 132 

10. " Dagger and Sheath 133 

11. " Hatchet . . . .133 

12. " Basket for Mer- 
chandise 133 

13. Orjikoto Fountain .... 138 

14. Interview with King Nangoro 147 

15. Ovambo Beer Cup and Beer 

Spoon 148 

16. Ovambo 150 

17. Ovambo Guitar .... 151 

18. " Meat Dish ... 153 

19. " Dwelling-house and 
Corn-stores 155 

20. View in Ondonga . . . 156 

21. Ovambo Blacksmiths at work 157 

22. Unwelcome Hunting Com- 

panions 165 

23. Damara Grave .... 177 

24. Jonker Afrikaner .... 183 

25. Wild Boar's Head ... 184 

26. Oryx or Gemsbok . . . .217 

27. Skull of a Bechuana Ox . 247 



28, 
29. 
30, 
31. 

32. 
33. 

34. 
35. 

36. 
37. 
38. 
39. 
40. 
41. 
42. 
43! 
44. 
45. 
46. 
47. 



PAGE 

Dacre's Pulpit 267 

Negro Boy 271 

Pit-falls 291 

Chasing the Eland . . . 296 
Heads of Rhinoceroses . . 301 
Horns of Rhinoceros Oswellii 303 
Foetus of Rhinoceros Keitloa 305 
The Approach of Elephants 324 
More close than agreeable . 332 
Desperate Situation . . . 335 
Nakong and Leche . . . 356 
The Bechuana Picho . . 362 
Ascending the Teoge . . 381 

The Koodoo 385 

Tsetse Fly 390 

The Reed-Ferry .... 396 

Bayeye 402 

Medal 413 

Hippopotamus Harpoon . . 416 
The Reed Raft and Harpoon- 

ers 418 

The Spear 418 

Harpooning Hippopotamus . 419 
Egyptians and Hippopota- 
mus 422 

The Spear 423 

The Reel 423 

The Downfall 427 

Author and Steed broken 
down ....... 432 

Signal Station at Cape-Town 433 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure from Sweden — Day Dreams — Fraternal Love — A Tempting Offer 
— Preparations for Journey to Africa — Departure from England — Arrival 
at the Cape — Town and Inhabitants — Table Mountain — Curious Legend 
— Preparation for Journey into the Interior — Departure for Walflsch 
Bay 1—9 

CHAPTER II. 

Arrival at Walfisch Bay — Scenery — Harbor Described — Want of Water — 
Capabilities for Trade — Fish — Wild Fowl — Mirage — Sand Fountain — The 
Bush-tick — The Naras — Quadrupeds Scarce — Meeting the Hottentots — 
Their Filthy Habits— The Alarum— The Turn Out— Death of a Lion- 
Arrival at Scheppmansdorf — the Place described — Mr. Bam — Missionary 
Life — Ingratitude of Natives — Missionary Wagons . . 10 — 21 

CHAPTER III. 

Preparations for Journey — Breaking-in Oxen — Departure from Schepp- 
mansdorf — An Infuriated Ox — The Naarip Plain — The Scarlet Flower — 
The Usab Gorge — The Swakop River — Tracks of Rhinoceros Seen — 
Anecdote of that Animal — A Sunrise in the Tropics— Sufferings from Heat 
and Thirst — Arrival at Daviep : great Resort of Lions — A Horse and Mule 
killed by them — The Author goes in Pursuit — A Troop of Lions — Unsuc- 
cessful Chase— Mules' Flesh Palatable .... 22—31 

CHAPTER IV. 

The Gnoo and the G-emsbok — Pursuit of a Rhinoceros — Venomous Fly — 
Fruit of the Acacia Nutritious — Sun-stroke — Crested Parrot — A Giraffe 
Shot — Tjobis Fountain — Singular Omelet — Nutritious Gum — Arrival at 
Richterfeldt — Mr. Rath and the Missions — The Damaras : their Persons, 
Habits, etc. — Lions Troublesome — Panic — Horse Sickness . 32 — 42 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER V 



Hans Larsen — His Exploits — He joins the Expedition — How People travel 
on Ox-back— Rhinoceros Hunt — Death of the Beast — " Look Before You 
Leap" — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proverb — Hans and the Lion 
— The Doctor in Difficulties — Sufferings on the Naarip Plain — Arrival at 
Scheppniansdorf . ....... 43 — 49 

CHAPTER VI. 

Return to Scheppniansdorf — Training Oxen for the Yoke — Sporting — The 
Flamingo — The Butcher Bird : curious Superstition regarding it — Pre- 
paring for Journey — Servants described .... 50 — 55 

CHAPTER VII. 

Departure from Scheppniansdorf — Cattle refractory at Starting — Tineas — 
Always Travel by Night — Rhinoceros Hunt — The Author in Danger of a 
Second Sun-stroke — Reach Onauis — A Tribe of Hill-Damaras settled there 
— Singular Manner in which these People smoke — Effects of the Weed — 
The Euphorbia Candelabrum — Remarkable Properties of this Vegetable 
Poison — Guinea Fowl : the best Manner of Shooting them — Meet a Troop 
of Giraffes — Tjobis Fountain again — Attacked by Lions — Providential Es- 
cape — Arrival at Richterfeldt ...... 56 — 65 

CHAPTER VIII. 

A hearty Welcome — We remove the Encampment — An Apparition— Auda- 
city of Wild Beasts— Depriving Lions of their Prey — Excessive Heat — 
Singular Effects of great Heat— Depart for Barmen — Meet a Troop of 
Zebras— Their Flesh not equal to Venison — The Missionary's Wail — A 
Sad Catastrophe — The "The Kameel-doorn" — Buxton Fountain — The 
Scorpion — Arrival at Barmen. ...... 6Q — 74 

CHAPTER IX. 

Barmen — Thunder-storm in the Tropics — A Man Killed by Lightning — Warm 
Spring — Mr. Hahn : his Missionary Labor ; Seed Sown in Exceeding Stony 
Ground — The Lake Omanbonde — Mr. Galton's Mission of Peace — The 
Author meets a Lion by the way ; the Beast bolts — Singular Chase of a 
Gnoo — " Killing Two Birds with One Stone" — A Lion Hunt — The Author 
Escapes Death by a Miracle — Consequences of Shootiug on Sunday 75 — 85 

CHAPTER X. 

A Christmas in the Desert — Mr. Galton's Return from the Erongo Moun- 
tain — He passes numerous Villages — Great Drought; the Natives have a 
Choice of two Evils — The Hill-Damaras — The Damaras a Pastoral People 
— The whole Country Public Property — Enormous Herds of Cattle — They 



CONTENTS. XV11 

are as Destructive as Locusts to the Vegetation — Departure from Richter- 
feldt — The Author kills an Oryx — The Oxen refractory — Danger of tra- 
versing dry Water-courses on the Approach of the Rainy Season — Message 
from the Robber-Chief Jonker — Emeute amongst the Servants — Depart 
for Schmelen's Hope. . . ..... 86 — 91 

CHAPTER XI. 

Schmelen's Hope — Scenery — Missionary Station — Raid of the Namaquas — 
Ingratitude of 'the natives — Jonker's Feud with Kahichene ; his Barbarities ; 
his Treachery — Mr. G-alton departs for Eikhams — Author's successful Sport- 
ing Excursions — He captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo — They are 
easily Domesticated — Hyaenas very troublesome ; several destroyed by 
Spring-guns — The latter described — Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a 
Dog; Chase and Death of the Leopard — The Caracal . . 92 — 100 

CHAPTER XII. 

Wild Fowl abundant — The great Bustard — The Termites — Wild Bees — 
Mushrooms — The Chief Zwartbooi — Return of Mr. Galton — He makes a 
Treaty with Jonker — He visits Rekoboth — Misdoings of John Waggoner 
and Gabriel — Change of Servants — Swarm of Caterpillars — A Reconnoiter- 
ing Expedition — Thunder-Storm — The Omatako Mountains — Zebra Flesh a 
God-send — Tropical Phenomenon — The Damaras not remarkable for Vera- 
city — Encamp in an Ant-hill — Return to Schmelen's Hope — Preparations 
for visiting Omanbonde 101 — 109 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Depart from Schmelen's Hope — Meeting with Kahichene — Oxen stolen — 
Summary Justice — Superstition — Meeting an old Friend — Singular Custom 
— Gluttony of the Damaras — How they eat Flesh by the Yard and not by 
the Pound— Superstitious Custom — A Nondescript Animal — The Author 
loses his Way — Ravages of the Termites — "Wait a bit, if you please" — 
Magnificent Fountain — Remains of Damara Villages — Horrors of War — 
Meet Bushmen — Meet Damaras — Difficulties encountered by African Tra- 
velers — Reach the Lake Omanbonde — Cruel Disappointment. 110 — 122 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami — Vegetation, etc., Described — Game 
somewhat scarce— Combat between Elephant and Rhinoceros — Advance or 
Retreat — Favorable Reports of the Ovambo-Land — Resolve to proceed 
there — Reconnoitre the Country — Depart from Omanbonde — Author shoots 
a Giraffe — Splendid Mirage — The Fan-Palm — The Guide absconds — Com- 
motion amongst the Natives — Arrive at Qkamabuti— Unsuccessful Elephant 
Hunt — Vegetation — Accident to Wagon — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back — 
The Party go Astray — Baboon Fountain — Meeting with the Ovambo ; their 



XV111 CONTENTS. 

personal Appearance, etc. — Return to Encampment — An Elephant killed — 
Discover a curious Plant — Immorality — Reflections . . 123 — 135 

CHAPTER XV. 

Depart from Okamabuti — Visit from a Lion — Amulets — Revisit Baboon 
Fountain — Otjikoto : a wonderful Freak of Nature ; Remarkable Cavern — 
Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swimming — Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; 
Frequented by immense Flocks of Doves — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing 
Birds shot on the Wing — Arrive at Omutjamatunda — A Greasy Wel- 
come — Ducks and Grouse numerous — Author finds himself somewhat 
"overdone" — "Salt-Pans" — All " look blue" — A Second Paradise — Hos- 
pitable Reception — Vegetation — People live in Patriarchal Style — Popu- 
lation — Enormous Hogs — Arrive at the Residence of the redoubtable 
Nangoro 136—145 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Visit from Nangoro — His extreme Obesity — One must be Fat to wear a 
Crown — His non-appreciation of Eloquence — Singular Effects of Fireworks 
on the Natives — Cure for making a wry Face — Ball at the Palace — The 
Ladies very attractive and very loving — Their Dress, Ornaments, etc. — 
Honesty of the Ovambo — Kindness to the Poor — Love of Country — Hos- 
pitality — Delicate Manner of eating — Loose Morals — Laws of Succession — 
Religion — Houses — Domestic Animals — Implements of Husbandry — Man- 
ner of tilling the Ground — Articles of Barter — Metallurgy . 146 — 158 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The River Cunene — The Travelers are Prisoners at Large — Kingly Revenge 
—Kingly Libei-ality — Depart from Odonga — Suffering and Consequences 
resulting from Cold — Return to Okamabuti — Damara Women murdered by 
Bushmen — Preparations for Journey — Obtain Guides — Depart from Tjo- 
popa's Werft — Game abundant — Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in 
Company — Extraordinary Visitation — The Rhinoceros's Guardian Angel 
— The Textor Erythrorhynchus — The Amadina Squamifrons ; Singular 
Construction of its Nest — Return to Barmen . . . 159 — 168 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Damaras — Whence they came — Their Conquests — The Tide turns — 
Damara-Land only partially inhabited — Climate — Seasons — Mythology — 
Religion — Superstitions — Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Circumcision — 
Bury their Dead — Way they Mourn — Children interred Alive — Burial of 
the Chief, and Superstitions consequent thereon — Maladies — Damaras do 
not live long ; the cause thereof — Food — Music and Dancing — How they 
swear — Power of the Chieftain limited — Slothful People — Numerals — As- 
tronomy — Domestic Animals ; their diseases .... 169 — 180 



CONTENTS. xix 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town — Depart from Barmen — Eikhams — 
Eyebrecht — Depart from Eikhams — Elephant Fountain — Tunobis — Enor- 
mous quantities of Game — Shooting by night at the " Skarm" — The Author 
has several narrow Escapes — Checked in attempt to reach the Ngami — The 
Party set out on their Return — Reach Elephant Fountain — How to make 
Soap — Pit-falls — A Night Adventure — Came scarce — Join Hans — The 
Party nearly poisoned — Arrival at Walfisch Bay> — A Tub Adventure — Ex- 
traordinary Mortality amongst the Fish — Author narrowly escapes Drown- 
ing — Arrival of the Missionary Vessel — Letters from Home — Mr. Galton 
returns to Europe — Reflections 181 — 195 

CHAPTER XX. 

Capture of Young Ostriches — Natural History of the Ostrich ; Where found ; 
Description of ; Size ; Weight ; Age ; Voice ; Strength ; Speed ; Food ; 
Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh — 
Brain in Request amongst the Romans — Eggs highly prized — Uses of Egg- 
shells — Feathers an Article of Commerce — Ostrich Parasols — The Bird's de- 
structive Propensities — Habits — Resembles Quadrupeds — Domestication — 
The Chase — Snares — Ingenious Device — Enemies of the Ostrich. 196 — 208 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Sudden Floods — John Allen's Sufferings — Hans and the Author enter into 
Partnership — Young Grass injurious to Cattle — Depart from Walfisch Bay — 
Attractive Scenery — -Troops of Lions — Extraordinary Proceedings of Kites 
— Flight of Butterflies — Attachment of Animals to One Another — Arrival 
at Richterfeldt ; at Barmen — Hans' narrow Escape — Self-Possession — Heavy 
Rains — Runaway Ox ; he tosses the Author — Depart from Barmen — Diffi- 
culty of crossing Rivers — Encounter great numbers of Oryxes . 209 — 215 

CHAPTER XXII. 

The Oryx ; More than one Species — Where found — Probably known in Eu- 
rope previous to the Discovery of the Passage round Cape-of-Good-Hope — 
Description of the Oryx — Gregarious Habits — Speed — Food — Water not 
necessary to its Existence — Will face the Lion — Formidable Horns — Their 
Use— Flesh— The Chase of this Animal .... 216—221 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Arrival at Eikhams — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated — Jonker Afrikaner — The 
Author visits the Red Nation ; The bad Repute of these People — The Au- 
thor attacked by Ophthalmia — The Embryo Locust — The " Flying" Lo- 
cust ; its Devastations — The Locust Bird — Arrival at Rehoboth ; The 
Place described ' . . . 222—229 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



Return to Eikhams — Ugly Fall — Splendid Landscape — Jonker's Delinquen- 
cies — How to manage the Natives — The Ondara — It kills a Man — How his 
Comrade avenges him — Medical Properties of the Ondara — The Cockatrice 
—The Cobra-di-capello— The Puff-Adder— The Spitting Snake— The 
Black Snake — Few Deaths caused by Snakes — Antidotes for Snake Bites — 
Return to Rehoboth 230—239 

CHAPTER XXV. 

The Author's Tent takes Fire — He loses everything but his Papers — He is 
laid on a Bed of Sickness — Want of Medicine, etc. — Reflections — Whole 
Villages infected with Fever — Abundance of Game — Extraordinary Shot at 
an Ostrich — A Lion breakfasts on his Wife — Wonderful Shooting Star — 
Remarkable Mirage — Game and Lions Plentiful — The Ebony Tree — Arri- 
val at Bethany, a Missionary Station — The Trouble of a large Herd of 
Cattle — A Thirsty Man's Cogitation — Curious Superstition — The Damara 
Cattle described — People who live entirely without Water — Cross the 
Orange River — Sterile Country 240 — 249 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Great Namaqua-land — Its Boundaries and Extent — Its Rivers — Nature of the 
Country— Vegetation and Climate — Geological Structure — Minerals — "Top- 
naars" and " Oerlams" — Houses — Mythology and Religion — Tumuli — 
Wonderful Rock — Curious Legend of the Hare — Coming of Age — The 
Witch-Doctor — Amulets — Superstitions — ANamaqua's Notion of the Sun — 
Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Barbarous Practice — Longevity — Singu- 
lar Customs — Ornaments — Tattooing — Arms — Idle Habits— Fond of Amuse- 
ments — Music and Dancing — Spirits — Mead — Domestic Animals 250 — 260 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Leave the Orange River — Arrival at Komaggas — Gardening and Agriculture 
— The Author starts alone for the Cape — Colony Horses — Enmity of the 
Boers to "Britishers" — Dutch Salutation — The Author must have been to 
Timbuctoo, whether or no — He arrives at Cape-Town — Cuts a Sorry Figure 
— Is run away with — A Feast of Oranges — Ghost Stories — Cattle Auction 
— Hans and John Allen proceed to Australia — Preparations for a journey to 
the Ngami — Departure from the Cape ..... 261 — 272 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Arrival at Walfisch Bay — Atrocities of the Namaquas — Mr. Halm — His Phi- 
lanthropy — Author departs for Richterfeldt — Shoots a Lion — Lions unusu- 
ally numerous — Piet's Performances with Lions — The Lion a Church-goer 
— Barmen — Eikhams — Kamapyu's mad Doings, and Consequences thereof 



CONTENTS. XXi 

— Kamapyu is wounded by other Shafts than Cupid's — Author visits Cor- 
nelius, where he meets Amral and a Party of Griqua Elephant Hunters — 
Reaches Rehoboth — Tan's Mountain — Copper Ore — Jonathan Afrika — A 
Lion sups on a Goat — A Lion besieges the Cattle . . . 273 — 282 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape — Terrible Thunder-storm — Trees struck by 
Lightning — The Nosop River — A Comet — The Author nearly poisoned — 
Some of the Men abscond ; they return to their Duty — Babel-like Confu- 
sion of Tongues — Game abundant — Author shoots a Giraffe — Meet Bush- 
men — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Sufferings from Hunger — Tunobis — 
Game scarce — Author and Steed entrapped — Pit-falls — The Men turn sulky 
— Preparations for Departure from Tunobis — Vicious Pack-Oxen — Conse- 
quences of excessive Fatigue — The Jackal's Handy- Work — Tracks of Ele- 
phants — More Pit-falls — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish 
Cross— Reach Ghanze 282—298 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Ghanze — Spotted Hyaena — The Rhinoceros — Where found — Several Species 
— Description of Rhinoceros — Size — Appearance — Age — Strength — Speed 
— Food — Water — The Young — Affection — Senses — Disposition — Gregari- 
ous Habits — Indolence — Domestication — Flesh — Horns — The Chase — Mr. 
Oswell's Adventures with Rhinoceroses — A Crochet — Where to Aim at the 
Rhinoceros — Does not bleed externally when wounded — Great numbers 
slain annually 299—313 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Departure from Ghanze — Nectar in the desert — Difficulty in finding Water — 
Arrive at Abeghan — Unsuccessful Chase — A "Charm" — How to make the 
undrinkable drinkable — An Elephant wounded and .killed— Bold and coura- 
geous Dog — Kobis — Author seized with a singular Malady — Messengers 
dispatched to the Chief of the Lake Ngami — A large Troop of Elephants 
— Author kills a huge Male — Lions and Giraffe — Author's hair-breadth Es- 
capes : from a Black Rhinoceros ; from a White Rhinoceros ; from Two 
Troops of Elephants — He shoots a Couple of his Adversaries — Where to 
aim at an Elephant 314 — 327 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

Tirnbo's Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the law in his own 
Hands — Calf of Author's Leg goes Astray — A Troop of Elephants — Au- 
thor is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes Death — He shoots a 
White Rhinoceros — He disables a Black Rhinoceros — He is charged and 
Desperately bruised by the latter — He saves the life of his Attendant, 



XX11 - CONTENTS. 

i 

Kamapyu — Author again charged by the Rhinoceros, and Escapes destruc- 
tion only by the opportune Death of his Antagonist — Reflections — He 
starts for the Ngami 328 — 339 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

The Author starts for Kobis — Meets Bechuanas — False Report — Wonderful 
Race of Men — The Baobob Tree — The Ngami — First Impressions of the 
Lake — Reflections — Experiences some Disappointment — Reaches the Zouga 
River and encamps near it — Interview with Chief Lecholetebe — Informa- 
tion refused — Immoderate Laughter — Presents to the Chief— His Covet- 
ousness — His Cruelty — Formidable Difficulties — Author permitted to pro- 
ceed Northwards . 340 — 348 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The Ngami — When discovered — Its various Names — Its Size and Form — 
Great Changes in its Waters — Singular Phenomenon — The Teoge River — 
The Zouga River — The Mukura Mukovanja River — Animals — Birds — 
Crocodiles — Serpents — Fish 349 — 360 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

The Batoana — Government — Eloquence — Language — Mythology — Religion 
— Superstition — The Rain-maker — Polygamy — Circumcision — Burial — Dis- 
position of the Bechuanas — Thievish Propensities — Dress — Great Snuff- 
takers — Smoking — Occupations — Agriculture — Commerce — Hunting and 
Fishing 361—376 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Departure for Libebe — The Canoe — The Lake — Reach the Teoge — Adven- 
ture with a Leche — Luxurious Vegetation — Exuberance of Animal Life — 
Buffaloes — The Koodoo — His Haunts — Pace — Food — Flesh — Hide — Dis- 
position — Gregarious Habits — The Cbase < . . 377 — 388 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Tsetse Fly — Confined to particular Spots — Its Size — Its Destructiveness 
— Fatal to Domestic Animals — Symptoms in the Ox when bitten by the 
Tsetse 389—392 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

The Crocodile — An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters — The Omo- 
roanga Vavarra River — Hardships — Beautiful Scenery — Lecholetebe's 
Treachery— The Reed-ferry 393—397 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

The Bay eye — Their Country; Persons ; Language ; Disposition ; Lying and Pil- 
fering Habits — Polygamy practiced amongst the Bayeye — Their Houses ; 



CONTENTS. XX111 

Dress ; Ornaments ; Weapons ; Liquors ; Agriculture ; Grain ; Fruits ; 
Granaries- — Hunting — Fishing — Nets — Diseases — The Matsanyana — The 
Bavicko— Libebe 398—406 

CHAPTEK XL. 

Departure from the Bayeye Werft— The Reed-raft — The Hippopotamus 
Behemoth or Hippopotamus — Where found — Two Species — Description 
of Hippopotamus — Appearance — Size— Swims like a Duck — Food — De- 
structive propensities of the Animal— Disposition — Sagacity — Memory — 
Gregarious Habits — Nocturnal habits — Domestication — Food — Flesh — 
Hide — Ivory — Medicinal virtues ..... 407 — 415 

CHAPTER XLI. 

The Bayeye Harpoon the Hippopotamus — The Harpoon described— How 
the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye — How it was 
conducted by the ancient Egyptians — The Spear used by them — Ferocity 
of the Hippopotamus — Killed by Guns — Frightful Accident — The Down- 
fall 416—426 

CHAPTER XLII. 

Return to the Lake — The Author starts for Namaqua-Land to procure Wa- 
gons — Night Adventure with a Lion — Death of the Beast — Sufferings of the 
Author 429—433 



LAKE NGAMI, 



CHAPTER I. 

DEPARTURE FROM SWEDEN DAY DREAMS FRATERNAL LOVE A TEMPT- 
ING OFFER PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY TO AFRICA DEPARTURE 

FROM ENGLAND ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE TOWN AND INHABITANTS 

TABLE MOUNTAIN CURIOUS LEGEND PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY IN- 
TO THE INTERIOR— DEPARTURE FOR WALFISCH BAY. 

It was at the close of the year 1849, that I left Gothenbourg, 
in a sailing vessel, for Hull, at which place I arrived in safety, 
after a boisterous and somewhat dangerous passage, of about 
fourteen days' duration. Though a Swede by birth, I am half 
an Englishman by parentage ; and it was with pleasure that I 
visited, for the second time, a country endeared to me by the 
ties of kindred and the remembrance of former hospitality. 

My stay in England, however, was intended to be only of 
short duration. I carried with me thither a considerable col- 
lection of living birds and quadrupeds, together with numerous 
preserved specimens of natural history, the produce of many a 
long hunting excursion amidst the mountains, lakes, and for- 
ests of my native country. These I was anxious to dispose 
of in England, and then proceed in my travels, though to what 
quarter of the globe, I had scarcely yet determined. 

From my earliest youth, my day-dreams had carried me into 

the wilds of Africa. Passionately fond of traveling, accustomed 

from my childhood to field sports, and to the study of natural 

history, and (as I hope I may say with truth) desirous of ren- 

1 



2 FRATERNAL LOVE. 

dering myself useful in my generation, I earnestly longed to 
explore some portion of that continent where all my predilec 
tions could be fully indulged, and where much still remained 
in obscurity which might advantageously be brought to light. 
The expense, however, of such a journey, was, to me, an insur- 
mountable obstacle. I had, therefore, long since given up all idea 
of making it, and had turned my thoughts northwards to Iceland, 
a country within my reach, and where I purposed studying 
the habits and characteristics of the rarer species of birds of 
the northern fauna. While at Hull, accordingly, I consulted 
some whaling captains on the subject of my enterprise, and 
had almost completed my arrangements, when a visit to 
London, on some private affairs, entirely changed my desti- 
nation. 

Before leaving Hull, I witnessed a striking example of that 
attachment towards each other, so frequently found to exist in 
the most savage animals. By the kindness of the Secretary, 
I had been permitted to place my collection in the gardens of 
the Hull Zoological Society. Amongst others, were two 
brown bears — twins — somewhat more than a year old, and play- 
ful as kittens when together. Indeed, no greater punishment 
could be inflicted upon these beasts than to disunite them, for 
however short a time. Still there was a marked contrast in 
their dispositions. One of them was good-tempered and gentle 
as a lamb, while the other frequently exhibited signs of a sulky 
and treacherous character. Tempted by an offer for the pur- 
chase of the former of these animals, I consented, after much 
hesitation, to his being separated from his brother. 

It was long before I forgave myself this act. On the follow- 
ing day, on my proceeding, as usual, to inspect the collection, 
one of the keepers ran up to me, in the greatest haste, ex- 
claiming : "Sir, I am glad you are come, for your bear has 
gone mad !" He then told me that, during the night, the 
beast had destroyed his den, and was found in the morning 
roaming wild about the garden. Luckily, the keeper managed 
to seize him just as he was escaping into the country, and, 
with the help of several others, succeeded in shutting him up 
again. The bear, however, refused his food, and raved in so 
fearful a manner that, unless he could be quieted, it was clear 
he would do some mischief. 

On my arrival at his den, I found the poor brute in a most 
furious state, tearing the wooden floor with his claws, and 
gnawing the barricaded front with his teeth. I had no soonet 
opened the door, than he sprang furiously at me, and struck 



PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY TO AFRICA. 3 

me repeated blows with his powerful paws. As, however, I 
had reared him from a cub, we had too often measured our 
strength together, for me to fear him now ; and I soon made 
him retreat into the corner of his prison, where he remained 
howling in the most heart-rending manner. It was a most 
sickening sight to behold the poor creature with his eyes blood- 
shot, and protruding from the sockets — his mouth and chest 
white with foam, and his body crusted with dirt. I am not 
ashamed to confess, that at one time I felt my own eyes moist- 
ened. Neither blows nor kind words were of any effect : they 
only served to irritate and infuriate him ; and I saw clearly 
that the only remedy would be, either to shoot him or to re- 
store him to his brother's companionship. I chose the latter 
alternative ; and the purchaser of the other bear, my kind 
friend Sir Henry Hunloke, on being informed of the circum- 
stance, consented to take this one, also. 

Shortly after my arrival in London, Sir Hyde Parker, another 
valued friend of mine, and " The King of Fishermen," introduced 
me to Mr. Francis G-alton, who was then just on the point of 
undertaking an expedition to Southern Africa ; his intention 
being to explore the unknown regions beyond the boundary of 
the Cape-of-G-ood-Hope Colony, and to penetrate, if possible, to 
the recently-discovered Lake Ngami. Upon finding that I, also, 
had an intention of traveling, and that our tastes and pursuits 
were, in many respects, similar, he proposed to me to give up 
my talked-of trip to the far north, and accompany him to the 
southward — promising, at the same time, to pay the whole of 
my expenses. This ofler awoke within me all my former am- 
bition ; and, although I could not be blind to the difficulties 
and dangers that must necessarily attend such an expedition, 
I embraced, after some hesitation, Mr. G-alton's tempting and 
liberal proposal. 

Preparations for our long and hazardous journey were now 
rapidly made. An immense quantity of goods of every kind 
was speedily amassed, intended, partly for barter, and partly 
for presents to barbarous chiefs. Muskets, long sword-knives, 
boar-spears, axes, hatchets, clasp-and-strike-light knives, Dutch 
tinder-boxes, daggers, burning-glasses, compasses, gilt rings 
(copper or brass), alarums, beads of every size and color, wolf- 
traps, rat-traps, old military dresses, cast-off ambassadors' uni- 
forms — these and a host of other articles too various to enumer- 
ate, formed our stock-in-trade. 

To the above, we added, mostly for our own use, guns and 
rifles, a vast quantity of ammunition of all kinds, instruments 



4 DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 

for taking observations, arsenical and other preparations for 
preserving objects of natural history, writing-materials, sketch- 
books, paints, pencils, canteens, knives, forks, dishes, etc. 

It was also deemed advisable that we should take with us 
boats for the navigation of Lake Ngami — those used by the 
natives being unsafe. We, therefore, supplied ourselves with 
three, each adapted for a specific purpose. 

Having thus provided, as far as possible, for all emergencies, 
we transferred ourselves and baggage on board the splendid, 
but unfortunate ship, the Dalhousie. 1 Here we found, to our 
dismay, in addition to a number of other passengers, several 
hundred emigrants, destined to the Cape-of-Grood-Hope. In- 
stead, however, of these people proving, as we had at first 
anticipated, a great annoyance, we found that they contributed 
considerably towards enlivening and diverting us during a long 
and tedious passage. 

I am not, however, about to inflict upon my readers the 
particulars of our voyage to the Cape. Suffice it to say that, 
after a few days' delay at Plymouth, we put to sea in half a 
gale of wind, on the 7th of April, 1850, and experienced, 
subsequently, the usual vicissitudes of rough and smooth 
weather. At one time, we were carried by a gentle breeze past 
the lovely island of Madeira, and so near as to distinguish its 
pleasant vineyards, and neat, pretty cottages, scattered over 
the mountain side to the very summit ; at another, we were 
driven so far westward, by gales and adverse winds, as to sight 
the coast of South America ; until, at length, on the night of the 
23d of June, the much wished-for land was descried, and on 
the following noon we anchored safely in Table Bay, after a 
passage of eighty-six days — a time at least a third longer than 
the average. How truly welcome to my eyes, as we sailed 
into the bay, was the fine panoramic view of Cape-Town, with 
the picturesque Table Mountain rising immediately in the 
background ! 

Upon landing, we took up our quarters at Welch's hotel. 
Our design was to stay a short time at Cape-Town, in order to 
obtain information respecting our intended route, and to pro- 
cure whatever was still wanting for our journey. We then 



1 It will, doubtless, be remembered, that, in a gale of wind off the British coast, 
the Dalhousie was thrown on her beam-ends, and foundered in half an hour after- 
wards, when, with a single exception, every soul on board perished. Out of the 
several vessels in which I have at different times been a passenger, the Dalhousie 
is the third that has perished shortly after my leaving her ! 



CAPE-TOWN AND ITS INHABITANTS. 



proposed to proceed by land northwards, taking the course of 
the Trans-Vaal river. It will presently be seen, however, that 
our desires in this respect were entirely frustrated. 

To give to an English reader a full description of Cape-Town, 
would, indeed, be a superfluous task. I fear, also, that, in some 
respects, I should be found to differ from other travelers. 

Cape-Town is generally described as a clean and neat place. 
With all due deference, I must dissent widely from this opinion. 
All the streets, for instance, are unpaved, and are, moreover, 
half-filled with rubbish, swept from the shops and warehouses, 
until some friendly shower carries it away. Undoubtedly, the 
town is regularly built, with broad streets, laid out at right 
angles to each other ; but, as almost every person of property 
resides in the country, few handsome dwelling-houses are to be 
met with — and by far the greater number are in the Dutch 
style. Here, however, as everywhere else where the English 
have obtained firm footing, improvements are very apparent ; 
and, doubtless, now that the colony has obtained its own 
Legislature, such improvements will become still more visible. 

No one can be at Cape-Town for a single day, without 
being struck by the infinite variety of the human race encoun- 
tered in the streets — Indians, Chinese, Malays, Caffres, Bechuanas, 
Hottentots, Creoles, " Afrikanders," half-casts of many kinds, 
negroes of every variety from the east and west coasts of 
Africa, and Europeans of all countries, form the motley popu- 
lation of the place. 

Of all these, with the exception of 
the Europeans, the Malays are far 
the most conspicuous and important. 
They comprise, indeed, no inconsider- 
able portion of the inhabitants, and 
are, moreover, distinguished for their 
industry and sobriety. Many of them 
are exceedingly well off, and, not un- 
frequently, keep their carriages and 
horses. They profess the Mahometan 
religion, and have their own clergy 
and places of worship. Two-thirds 
of the week they work hard, and de- 
vote the remainder to pleasure, spend- 
ing much of their time and money on 
their dress — more especially the women. malat. 

These latter seldom have any covering for the head ; but the 
men tie round it a red handkerchief, over which they wear an 




b TABLE MOUNTAIN. 

enormous umbrella-shaped straw hat, admirably adapted to 
ward off the sun's rays, but useless and inconvenient in windy 
weather. 

The Malays are, usually, very honest ; but, strange to relate, 
on a certain day of the year, they exert their ingenuity in pur- 
loining their neighbors' poultry, and, Spartan -like, do not con- 
side 1 ' this dishonorable, provided they are not detected in the 
fact : — 

" To be taken, to be seen, 
These have crimes accounted been." 

To be at Cape-Town, without ascending the far-famed 
Table Mountain, was, of course, not to be thought of. The 
undertaking, however, is not altogether without danger. On the 
side of the town, access to the summit is only practicable on foot, 
and that by a narrow and slippery path ; but, on the opposite 
side, the Table may be gained on horseback, though with some 
difficulty. The whole mountain side, moreover, is intersected 
by deep and numerous ravines, which are rendered more dan- 
gerous by the dense fogs that, at certain seasons of the year, 
arise suddenly from the sea. 

One fine afternoon, I had unconsciously approached the 
foot of the mountain, and the top looked so near and inviting, 
that, though the sun was fast sinking, I determined to make 
the ascent. At the very outset, I lost the road ; but, having 
been all my life a mountain-climber, I pushed boldly forward. 
The task, however, proved more difficult than I expected, and 
the sun's broad disc had already touched the horizon when I 
reached the summit. Nevertheless, the magnificent panorama 
that now lay spread before me, amply rewarded me for my 
trouble. It was, however, only for a very short time that I could 
enjoy the beautiful scene ; darkness was rapidly encroaching 
over the valley below ; and, as in these regions there is but one 
step from light to darkness, I was compelled to commence the 
descent, without a moment's delay. I confess that this was not 
done without some apprehension ; for, what with the quick- 
coming night, and the terrible ravines that lay yawning beneath 
my feet, the task was anything but agreeable. I found it 
necessary, for safety, to take off my boots, which I fastened to 
my waist ; and, at length, after much exertion, with hands 
torn, and trowsers almost in rags, I arrived late in the evening 
at our hotel, where they had begun to entertain some doubt of 
my safety. As a proof that my fears were not altogether 
groundless, a short time before this, a young man, who was 



CURIOUS LEGEND. 7 

wandering about the mountain in broad daylight, missed his 
footing, was precipitated down its sides, and brought in the 
next day, a mutilated corpse. 

When Europeans first arrived in the Cape Colony, it would 
appear that almost all the larger quadrupeds indigenous to 
Southern Africa existed in the neighborhood of Table Mountain. 
A curious anecdote is preserved in the archives of Cape-Town, 
relating to the death of a rhinoceros, which, for its quaintness 
and originality, is, perhaps, worthy of record. 

Once upon a time — so runs the legend — some laborers, em- 
ployed in a field, discovered a huge rhinoceros, immovably 
fixed in the quick-sands of the salt river, which is within a mile 
of the town. The alarm being given, a number of country 
people, armed with such weapons as were at hand, rushed to 
the spot with an intention of dispatching the monster. Its 
appearance, however, was so formidable, that they deemed it 
advisable to open their battery at a most respectful distance. 
But, seeing that all the animal's efforts to extricate itself were 
fruitless, the men gradually grew more courageous ; and ap- 
proached much nearer. Still, whether from the inefficiency 
of their weapons, or want of skill, they were unable to make 
any impression on the tough, and almost impenetrable hide of 
the beast. At length, they began to despair, and it was a 
question if they should not beat a retreat ; when an individual, 
more sagacious than the rest, stepped forward, and suggested 
that a hole should be cut in the animal's hide, by which means 
easy access might be had to its vitals ; and they could then 
destroy it at their leisure ! The happy device was loudly 
applauded ; and though, I believe, the tale ends here, it may 
be fairly concluded that, after such an excellent recommenda- 
tion, success could not but crown their endeavors. 

We had now been at Cape-Town somewhat less than a week, 
and had already added considerably to the stock of articles of 
exchange, provisions, and other necessaries for our journey. 
To convey this immense quantity of luggage, we provided our- 
selves with two gigantic wagons, each represented to hold 
three or four thousand pounds weight, together with a sort of 
cart 1 for ourselves. 

Mr. Gralton bought, also, nine excellent mules, which could 
be used either for draught or packing ; two riding horses ; and, 

1 The term " cart" in this sense, implies a large, roomy, and covered vehicle, 
capable of holding four or six individuals, and from five hundred to one thousand 
pounds of baggage. It is usually drawn by six or eight mules or horses. 



8 JOURNEY DEFERRED. 

in addition to these, he secured about half a dozen dogs, which, if 
the truth be told, were of a somewhat mongrel description. 

Mr. Galton also engaged the needful people to accompany us 
on our travels, such as wagon-drivers, herdsmen, cooks, etc., in 
all amounting to seven individuals. 

Our preparations being now complete, we were about to set 
out on our journey, when, to our dismay, we received informa- 
tion which entirely overthrew our plans. It was reported to us 
that the Boers on the Trans- Vaal river (the very line of country 
we purposed taking) had lately turned back several traders and 
travelers, who were on their way northwards, and had, more- 
over, threatened to kill any person who should attempt to pass 
through their territories with the intention of penetrating to 
Lake Ngami. This intelligence, being equally unexpected and 
unwelcome, we were at a loss on what to decide. On asking 
the opinion of the Governor of the Cape, Sir Harry Smith, to 
whose kindness and hospitality we were, on several occasions, 
indebted, he strongly dissuaded us from attempting the route in 
question. " The Boers," he said, " are determined men ; and, 
although I have no fear for the safety of your lives, they will 
assuredly rob you of all your goods and cattle, and thus prevent 
your proceeding further." The counsel given us by his Excel- 
lency settled the point. We were, however, determined not to 
be idle ; but it was by no means easy to decide on what course 
to pursue. As the whole of the interior, by which a passage 
could be obtained to the Lake, was either occupied by the 
Boers, or served as their hunting-ground, we were compelled to 
choose between the eastern and western coasts. The former of 
these, however, was well known to be infected by fevers fatal 
to Europeans ; while the latter presented, for a considerable 
distance northwards, nothing but a sandy shore, destitute of 
fresh water and vegetation. The country intervening between 
the western coast and the Lake, moreover, was represented as 
very unhealthy. 

Whilst in this state of uncertainty, we made the acquaintance 

of a Mr. M , who lately had an establishment at Walfisch 

Bay, on the west coast of Africa, about seven hundred geo- 
graphical miles north of the Cape. He strongly recommended 
us to select this place as the starting point for our journey into 
the interior, which opinion was confirmed by some missionaries 
whom we met in Cape-Town, and who had a settlement in the 
neighborhood of the bay in question. 

This route was ultimately adopted by us ; but, as vessels only 
frequented Walfisch Bay once or twice in the course of every 



SAIL FOR WALFISCH BAY. 9 

two years, Mr. G-alton at once chartered a small schooner, named 
the Foam, the sixth part of the expense of which was defrayed 
by the missionaries referred to, who were anxious, not only to 
forward some supplies, but to obtain a passage for a young 
member of their society, the Rev. Mr. Schoneberg, who was 
about proceeding on a mission of peace and good-will into 
Damara-land. 

As our plans were now so entirely changed, and as we were 
about to travel through an almost unknown region, we thought 
it expedient to disencumber ourselves of whatever could, in any 
way, be spared. We left, accordingly, at the Cape, amongst 
other things, two of our boats ; taking with us, however, the 
other, a mackintosh punt, as being light and portable, hoping, 
some day or other, to see her floating on the waters of the 
Ngami. 

Our arrangements being finished, and the goods, etc., shipped, 
we unfurled our sails on the 7th of August, and bade farewell to 
Cape-Town, where, during our short stay, we had experienced 
much kindness and hospitality. 



CHAPTER II. 

ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY SCENERY HARBOR DESCRIBED "WANT OF 

"WATER CAPABILITIES FOR TRADE PISH WILD FOWL MIRAGE — SAND 

FOUNTAIN THE BUSH-TICK THE NARAS QUADRUPEDS SCARCE MEET- 
ING THE HOTTENTOTS THEIR FILTHY HABITS THE ALARUM THE TURN- 
OUT DEATH OF A LION ARRIVAL AT SCHEPPMANSDORF THE PLACE 

DESCRIBED MR. BAM MISSIONARY LIFE INGRATITUDE OF NATIVES 

MISSIONARY WAGONS. 

In the afternoon of the 20th of August, we found ourselves 
safely anchored at the entrance of Walfisch Bay. From the 
prevalence of southerly winds, this voyage seldom occupies 




VIEW OF WALFISCH BAY. 



more than a week ; but, on the present occasion, we were dou- 
ble that time performing it. 

The first appearance of the coast, as seen from Walfisch Bay, 
is little calculated to inspire confidence in the traveler about to 
penetrate into the interior. A desert of sand, bounded only by 
the horizon, meets the eye in every quarter, assuming, in one 
direction, the shape of dreary flats — in another, of shifting hil- 
locks ; whilst, in some parts, it rises almost to the height of 
mountains. 



HARBOR DESCRIBED. 11 

Walfisch Bay has been long known to Europeans, and was 
once hastily surveyed by Commodore Owen, of the Eoyal Navy. 
It is a very spacious, commodious, and comparatively safe har- 
bor, being on three sides protected by a sandy shore. The only 
winds to which it is exposed, are N. and N. W. ; but these, for- 
tunately, are not of frequent occurrence. Its situation is about 
N. and S. The anchorage is good. Large ships take shelter 
under the lee of a sandy peninsula, the extremity of which is 
known to navigators by the name of "Pelican Point." Smaller 
craft, however, ride safely within less than half a mile of the 
shore. 

The great disadvantage of Walfisch Bay is, that no fresh 
water can be found near the beach ; but, at a distance of three 
miles inland, abundance may be obtained, as also good pastur- 
age for cattle. I mention this circumstance, as being essential 
to the establishment of any cattle-trade in future. 

During the time the guano trade flourished on the west coast 
of Africa, Walfisch Bay was largely resorted to by vessels of 
every size, chiefly with a view of obtaining fresh provisions. 
At that period, certain parties from the Cape had an estab- 
lishment here for the salting and curing of beef. They, 
moreover, furnished the guano-traders, as, also, Cape Town, 
with cattle ; and had, in addition, a contract with the British 
Government for supplying St. Helena with live stock. The lat- 
ter speculation proved exceedingly lucrative for a time, and a 
profit of many hundred per cent, was said to be realized. From 
some mismanagement, however, the contract for St. Helena was 
thrown up by the Government, and the parties in question were 
fined a large sum of money for its non-fulfillment. Shortly 
afterwards, the establishment was broken up, and, for several 
years, the house and store remained unoccupied. But they are 
now again tenanted by people belonging to merchants from 
Cape-Town. 

Walfisch Bay affords an easy and speedy communication with 
the interior. By the late explorations of Mr. Galton and my- 
self, in that quarter, we have become acquainted with many 
countries previously unknown, or only partially explored, to 
which commerce might easily be extended. 

Walfisch Bay and the neighborhood abounds with fish of vari- 
ous kinds : at certain seasons, indeed, it is much frequented by 
a number of the smaller species of whale, known by the name 
of " humpbacks," which come here to breed. Several cargoes 
of oil, the produce of this fish, have been already exported. 

At the inner part of the harbor, a piece of shallow water 



12 FISH WILD FOWL ARCTIC DUCK. 

extends nearly a mile into the interior, and is separated from 
the sea, on the west side, by Pelican Point. This lagoon teems 
with various kinds of fish ; and, at low water, many, that have 
lingered behind, are left sprawling helplessly in the mud. At 
such times, the natives are frequently seen approaching ; and, 
with a gemsbok's horn, affixed to a slender stick, they transfix 
their finny prey at leisure. Even hyaenas and jackals seize such 
opportunities to satisfy their hunger. 

Walfisch Bay is frequented by immense numbers of water- 
fowl, such as geese, ducks, different species of cormorants, peli- 
cans, flamingoes, and countless flocks of sand-pipers. But, as 
the surrounding country is everywhere open, they are difficult 
of approach. Nevertheless, with a little tact and experience, 
tolerably good sport may be obtained, and capital rifle- practice 
at all times. Hardly any of the water-fowl breed here. 

Every morning, at daybreak, myriads of flamingoes, pelicans, 
cormorants, etc., are seen moving from their roosting-places, in 
and about the bay, and flying in a northerly direction. About 
noon, they begin to return to the southern portion of the bay, 
and continue arriving there, in an almost continuous stream, 
until nightfall. 

The way in which the " duikers" (cormorants and shags) 
obtain their food is not uninteresting. Instead of hovering 
over their prey, as the gull, or waiting quietly for it in some 
secluded spot, like the king-fisher, they make their attacks in a 
noisy and exciting manner. Mr. Lloyd, in his " Scandinavian 
Adventures," has given a very interesting account of the manner 
in which the Arctic duck {harelda glacialis. Steph.) procures its 
food ; and, as it applies to the birds above-named, I cannot do 
better than quote him on the subject. 

" The hareld is a most restless bird," says he, " and perpetu- 
ally in motion. It rarely happens that one sees it in a state of 
repose during the day time. The flock — for there are almost 
always several in company — swim pretty fast against the wind ; 
and the individuals comprising it keep up a sort of race with 
each other. Some of the number are always diving ; and, as 
these remain long under water, and their comrades are going 
rapidly ahead in the meanwhile, they are, of course, a good 
way behind the rest on their reappearance at the surface. 
Immediately on coming up, therefore, they take wing, and, 
flying over the backs of their comrades, resume their position 
in the ranks, or rather fly somewhat beyond their fellows, with 
the object, as it would seem, of being the foremost of the party. 
This frequently continues across the bay, or inlet, until the flock 



MIRAGE. 13 

is ' brought up' by the opposing shore, when they generally all 
take wing and move off elsewhere. ***** 
' Fair play is a jewel,' says the old saw, and so, perhaps, thinks 
the hareld ; for it would really appear as if it adopted the some- 
what curious manoeuvre just mentioned, to prevent its compan- 
ions from going over the ground previously." 

The day after our arrival, we moved our small craft within 
half a mile of the shore ; and, as soon as she was safely anchored, 
we proceeded to reconnoitre the neighborhood. The first thing 
which attracted our attention, was a mirage of the most strik- 
ing character and intensity of effect. Objects, distant only a 
few hundred feet, became perfectly metamorphosed. Thus, for 
instance, a small bird would look as big as a rock, or the trunk 
of a tree ; pelicans assumed the appearance of a ship under can- 
vas ; the numerous skeletons and bones of stranded whales, 
were exaggerated into clusters of lofty houses ; and dreary 
and sterile plains presented the aspect of charming lakes. In 
short, every object had a bewildering and supernatural appear- 
ance, and the whole atmosphere was misty, tremulous, and 
wavy. This phenomenon is, at all times, very remarkable ; but 
during the hot season of the year, it is more surprising and de- 
ceptive. At an after period, Mr. Galton tried to map the bay, 
but this mirage frustrated all his endeavors. An object that he 
had, perhaps, chosen for a mark, became totally indistinguish- 
able when he moved to the next station. 

On the beach we found a small house, constructed of planks, 
in tolerable preservation, which, at high water, was completely 
surrounded by the sea. This had originally been erected by a Cap- 
tain Greybourn, for trading purposes, but was now in the pos- 
session of the Rhenish Missionary Society. It was kindly thrown 
open to our use, and proved of the greatest comfort to us ; for, 
at this season, the nights were bitterly cold, and the dew so 
heavy, as completely to saturate every article of clothing that 
was exposed. 

We had not been many minutes on shore, when some half- 
naked, half-starved, cut-throat-looking savages, made their 
appearance, armed with muskets and assegais. Nothing could 
exceed the squalid, wretched, and ludicrous aspect of these 
people, which was increased by a foolish endeavor to assume a 
martial bearing, no doubt with a view of making an impression 
on us. Without noticing either their weapons or their swag- 
gering air, and in order to disarm suspicion, we walked straight 
up to them, and shook hands with apparent cordiality. Our 
missionary friend, Mr. Schoneberg, then explained to them, by 



14 SAND FOUNTAIN. 

signs and gestures, that he wished to have a letter conveyed 
to Mr. Bam, his colleague, residing at Scheppmansdorf, some 
twenty miles off, in an easterly direction. It soon became ap- 
parent that they were accustomed to similar errands ; for, 
on receiving a small gratuity of tobacco on the spot, with a 
promise of further payment on their return, they set out 
immediately, and executed their task with so much dis- 
patch, that, before the dawn of next morning, Mr. Bam had 
arrived. 

In the mean time, we made an excursion to a place called 
Sand Fountain, about three miles inland. On our way there, 
we crossed a broad flat, which in spring tides is entirely flooded. 
In spite of this submersion, the tracks of wagons, animals, 
etc., of several years' standing, were as clear and distinct as if 
imprinted but yesterday! At Sand Fountain, we found another 

wooden house, but uninhabited, belonging to Mr. D , a 

partner of Mr. M . The natives had taken advantage of 

the absence of the owner, to injure and destroy the few pieces 
of furniture left behind ; and leaves of books, and panes of win- 
dow glass, were wantonly strewn about the ground. We next 
visited the so-called "fountain," which was hard by ; but, in- 
stead of a copious spring — as the name of the place gave us reason 
to expect — we found, to our dismay, nothing but a small hole, 
some live or six inches in diameter, and half as many deep ; the 
water, moreover, was of so execrable a quality as to make it 
totally undrinkable. However, on cleaning away the sand, it 
flowed pretty freely, and we flattered ourselves *that, by a little 
care and trouble, we might render it fit for use, if not exactly 
palatable. 

After having thus far explored the country, we returned to 
the vessel. On the following morning at daybreak, we set 
about landing our effects, mules, horses, etc., which was not 
done without some difficulty. As soon as the goods belonging 
to the missionary should have been removed to Scheppmansdorf, 
Mr. Bam most considerately promised to assist us with his oxen. 
In the interval — as there was no fresh water on the beach — we 
deemed it advisable to remove our luggage, by means of the 
mules, to Sand Fountain, where we should, at least, be able to 
obtain water — though bad of its kind — and be better off in 
other respects. 

On the fourth day, the schooner, which had conveyed us to 
Walfisch Bay, set sail for the Cape, leaving us entirely to our 
own resources on a desert coast ; and — excepting the several 
missionary stations scattered over the country — at several 



BUSH-TICK. 15 

months' tedious journey by land to the nearest point of civiliza- 
tion. 

On returning to Sand Fountain, our first care was to sink an 
old, perforated tar-barrel, in a place dug for the purpose ; but 
instead of improving the quality of the water, it only made mat- 
ters worse ! Fortunately, we had taken the precaution to bring 
with us from the Cape, a . " copper distiller ;" but the water, 
even thus purified, could only be used for cooking, or 
making very strong coffee and tea. Strange enough, when 
the owner of the house resided here, water was abundant 
and excellent ; but the spot where it was obtained was now 
hidden from view by an immense sand-hill, which defied 
digging. 

At Sand Fountain we had the full benefit of the sea-breeze, 
which made the temperature very agreeable — the thermometer 
never exceeding seventy-five degrees in the shade, at noon. The 
sand, however, was a cruel annoyance, entering into every par- 
ticle of food, and penetrating our clothes to the very skin. But 
we were subjected to a still more formidable inconvenience ; for, 
besides myriads of fleas, our encampment swarmed with a spe- 
cies of bush-tick, whose bite was so severe and irritating, as al- 
most to drive us mad. To escape, if possible, the horrible per- 
secutions of these blood-thirsty creatures, I took refuge one 
night in the cart, and was congratulating myself on having, at 
last, secured a place free from their attacks. But I was mis- 
taken. I had not been long asleep, before I was awakened by 
a disagreeable irritation over my whole body, which shortly be- 
came intolerable ; and, notwithstanding the night air was very 
sharp, and the dew heavy, I cast off all my clothes, and rolled 
on the icy-cold sand, till the blood flowed freely from every 
pore. Strange as it may appear, I found this expedient service- 
able. 

On another occasion, a bush-tick, but of a still more poison- 
ous species, attached itself to one of my feet ; and, though a 
stinging sensation was produced, I never thought of examining 
the part, till one day, when enjoying the unusual luxury of a cold 
bath, I accidently discovered the intruder deeply buried in the 
the flesh, and it was only with very great pain that I succeeded 
in extracting it, or rather its body, for the head remained in the 
wound. The poisonous effect of its bite was so acrimonious as 
to cause partial lameness for three following months ! 

The bush-tick does not confine its attacks to men only, for 
it attaches itself with even greater pertinacity to the inferior 
animals. Many a poor dog have I seen killed by its relentless 



16 THE NARAS. 

persecutions ; and even the sturdy ox has been known to suc- 
cumb under the poisonous influence of these insects. 1 

Sand Fountain, notwithstanding its disagreeable guests, had 
its advantages. Almost every little sand-hillock thereabout 
was covered with a "creeper," which produced a kind of prickly 
gourd (called, by the natives, naras), of the most delicious fla- 
vor. It is about the size of an ordinary turnip (a Swede), and, 
when ripe, has a greenish exterior, with a tinge of lemon. The 
interior, again, which is of a deep orange color, presents a most 
cooling, refreshing, and inviting appearance. A stranger, how- 
ever, must be particularly cautious not to eat of it too freely ; 
as, otherwise, it produces a peculiar sickness, and great soreness 
of the gum and lips. For three or four months in the year it 
constitutes the chief food of the natives. 

The naras contains a great number of seeds, not unlike a peel- 
ed almond in appearance and taste, and being easily separated 
from the fleshy parts, they are carefully collected, exposed to 
the sun, dried, and then stored away in little skin bags. When 
the fruit fails, the natives have recourse to the seeds, which are 
equally nutritious, and perhaps even more wholesome. The 
naras may also be preserved by being boiled. When of a cer- 
tain consistency, it is spread out into thin cakes, in which state 
it presents the appearance of brown moist sugar, and may be 
kept for almost any length of time. These cakes are, however, 
rather rich and luscious. 

But it is not man alone that derives benefit from this remark- 
able plant ; for every animal, from the field-mouse to the ox, and 
even the feline and canine race, devour it with great avidity. 
Birds 2 are, also, very partial to it, more especially ostriches, 
who, during the naras season, are found in great abundance in 
these parts. 

It is in such instances, more especially, that the mind becomes 
powerfully impressed with the wise provisions of nature, and 
the great goodness of the Almighty, who, even from the des- 
ert, raises good and wholesome sustenance for man and all his 
creatures. 



1 When a bush-tick is found attached to any part of the body of a man, the 
simplest and most effectual way of getting rid of it, without any disagreeable 
result, is to anoint the place, to which the insect has fixed itself, with pipe oil. 
In cases of brute animals, I have found tar to answer the purpose exceedingly 
well. 

* I have seen the white Egyptian vulture feed upon it ! This is, I believe, with 
one more exception, the only instance where this class of birds are known to par- 
take of vegetable food. 



QUADRUPEDS SCARCE. 17 

-By his bounteous baud, 



God covers earth with food for man and beast 
Insect and bird ; yea, the poor creeping worm 
Partakes the Creator's bounty." 



In this barren and poverty-stricken country, food is so scarce, 
that without the naras the land would be all but uninhabitable. 
The naras serves, moreover, a double purpose ; for, besides its 
usefulness as food, it fixes with wonderful tenacity, by means of 
its extensive ramifications, the constantly shifting-sands ; it is, 
indeed, to those parts what the sand-reed {ammophila arundina- 
cia) is to the sandy shores and downs of England. 

The naras only grows in the bed of the Kuisip river, in the 
neighborhood of the sea. A few plants are to be met with at 
the mouth of the Orange river, as also, according to Captain 
Messum, in a few localities between the Swakop and the Nourse 
river. 

The general aspect of the country about Sand Fountain is 
very dreary and desolate. The soil is entirely composed of sand. 
The vegetation, moreover, is stunted in the extreme, consisting 
chiefly of the above-mentioned creeper, a species of tamarisk tree 
(or rather bush), and a few dew-plants. Consequently, the 
animal world, as might be expected, did not present any great 
variety. Nevertheless, being an enthusiastic sportsman, and 
devoted to the study of natural history, I made frequent short 
excursions into the neighborhood, on which occasions my spoils 
consisted for the most part of some exquisitely beautiful liz- 
ards, a few long-legged beetles, and some pretty species of field- 
mice. Once in a time, moreover, I viewed a solitary gazelle in 
the distance. 

A few miles from our encampment, resided a small kraal 
of Hottentots, under the chief, Frederick, who occasionally 
brought us some milk and a few goats, as a supply for the 
larder, in exchange for which they received old soldiers' coats 
(worth sixpence a-piece), handkerchiefs, hats, tobacco, and a 
variety of other trifling articles. But they infinitely preferred 
to beg, and were not the least ashamed to ask for even the shirt 
on one's back. 

These men were excessively dirty in their habits. One fine 
morning, I observed an individual attentively examining his 
caross, spread out before him in a sunny and sheltered spot. 
On approaching him, in order to ascertain the cause of his deep 
meditation, I found, to my astonishment and disgust, that he was 
feasting on certain loathsome insects, that cannot with propriety 
2 



18 THE ALARUM THE TURN-OUT. 

be named to ears polite. This was only one instance out of a 
hundred that might be named of their filthy customs. 

As Frederick, the chieftain, and a few of his half-starved and 
Chinese-featured followers, were one clay intently watching the 
process of our packing and unpacking clivers trunks, I placed 
alongside of him, as if by accident, a small box-alarum, and then 
resumed my employment. On the first shrill sound of the in- 
strument, our friend leapt from his seat like one suddenly de- 
mented ; and during the whole time the jarring notes continued, 
he remained standing at a respectful distance, trembling vio- 
lently from head to foot. 

As no draught cattle could be obtained in the neighborhood, 
nor, indeed, within a less distance than from one hundred and 
fifty to two hundred miles, Mr. Galton started on an excursion 
into the interior, with a view of obtaining a supply. 

His "turn-out" was most original, and would have formed an 
excellent subject for a caricature. From both ends of the cart — 
with which he made the journey — protruded a number of com- 
mon muskets, and other articles, intended for barter. The 
mules harnessed to the vehicle kept up a most discordant con- 
cert, viciously kicking out to the right and left. The coachman, 
bathed in perspiration, kept applying his immense Cape-whip 
to their flanks with considerable unction ; whilst a man, sitting 
alongside of him on the front seat, abused the stubborn animals 
with a burst of all the eloquent epithets contained in the Dutch- 
Hottentot vocabulary. Two sulky goats, tied to the back of 
the cart, were on the point of strangling themselves in their 
endeavors to escape. To complete the picture, Galton himself, 
accompanied by half a dozen dogs of nondescript race, toiled on 
cheerfully through the deep sand by the side of the vehicle, 
smoking a common clay pipe. 

On my friend's arrival at Scheppmansdorf, however, he 
found it necessary to adjourn his trip into the interior for a 
few days. 

In the mean time, as Mr. Barn's oxen had arrived at Sand 
Fountain, I busied myself with conveying the baggage to 
Scheppmansdorf; but, on account of its great weight and bulk, 
and the badness of the road, this occupation lasted several days. 
In the last trip, we had so overloaded the wagons, that, after 
about three miles, the oxen came to a dead stand-still. The two 
teams were now yoked to one of the vehicles, and it proceeded 
on its way without further interruption, whilst I remained alone 
in charge of the other. It was agreed that some of the men 
should return with the cattle on the following night; but, on 



DEATH OF A LION. 19 

arriving atScheppmansdorf, they and the oxen were so exhausted, 
that it was found necessary to give both the one and the other 
two days' rest. For this delay I was not at all prepared. My 
small supply of water had been exhausted on the second day, 
and I began, for the first time in my life, to experience the 
misery of thirst. I was, however, fortunately relieved from 
my embarrassing situation by the arrival of a Hottentot, who, 
for a trifling consideration, brought me an ample supply of 
water. 

At length, all the baggage was safely deposited at Schepp- 
mansdorf, where I rejoined Mr. G-alton. 

He had not, I found, been many days at that place, when a 
magnificent lion suddenly appeared one night in the midst of 
the village. A small dog, that had incautiously approached the 
beast, paid the penalty of its life for its daring. The next day 
a grand chase was got up, but the lion, being on his guard, 
managed to elude his pursuers. The second day, however, he 
was killed by Messrs. G-alton and Bam ; and, on cutting him 
up, the poor dog was found, still undigested, in his stomach, 
bitten into five pieces. 

The natives highly rejoiced at the successful termination of 
the hunt ; for this lion had proved himself to be one of the 
most daring and destructive ever known, having, in a short 
time, killed upwards of fifty oxen, cows, and horses. Though 
he had previously been chased, he had always escaped un- 
scathed, and every successive attack made upon him only served 
to increase his ferocity. 

I regretted much being prevented from taking part in so 
interesting and exciting an event ; but, on the other hand, I felt 
pleased that my friend had thus early had an opportunity of 
exercising his skill on one of the most noble and dreaded of the 
animal creation. My turn was yet to come. 

Scheppmansdorf — Roebank — Abbanhous — as it is indifferently 
called — was first occupied as a missionary station, in the year 
1846, by the Rev. Mr. Scheppman, from whom it takes its 
name. It is situated on the left bank of the river Kuisip ; and 
immediately behind rise enormous masses and ridges of sand. 
The Kuisip is a periodical stream, and is dependent on the 
rains in the interior; but, from the great uncertainty of this 
supply, and the absorbing nature of the soil, it is seldom that it 
reaches Walfisch Bay, where it has its estuary. On our arrival, 
the Kuisip had not flowed for years ; but when it does send 
down its mighty torrent, it fertilizes and changes the aspect of 
the country to a wonderful degree. Kain falls seldom or never 



20 MR. BAM. 

at this place, but thirsty nature is relieved by heavy dews. 
Fresh water and fuel, however, two of the great necessaries of 
life, are found in abundance. 

Sandy and barren as the soil appears to the eye, portions of 
it, nevertheless, are capable of great fertility. From time to 
time, Mr. Bam has cultivated small spots of garden ground in the 
bed of the river ; but although many things thrive exceedingly 
well, the trouble, risk, and labor were too great to make it worth 
his while to persevere. A sudden and unexpected flood, the 
effect of heavy rains in the interior, often lays waste in a few 
minutes what has taken months to raise. 

The principal trees thereabouts are the ana and the giraffe- 
thorn {acacia giraffce) ; and the chief herbage, a species of sand- 
reed, which is much relished by the cattle when once accustomed 
to it, but more especially by horses, mules, and donkeys, which 
thrive and fatten wonderfully on this diet. 

During our stay at Scheppmansdorf, we were the constant 
guests of Mr. and Mrs. Bam, but we felt almost sorry to trespass 
on a hospitality that we knew they could ill afford ; for it was 
only once in every two years that they received their supplies 
from the Cape, and then only in sufficient quantities for their 
own families. The genuine sincerity, however, with which it 
was offered, overruled all scruples. 

Mr. Bam had long been a dweller in various parts of Great 
Namaqua-land. 1 His present residence, however, in this its 
western portion, was of comparatively recent date. Although 
he had used every effort to civilize and christianize his small 
community, all his endeavors had hitherto proved nearly abor- 
tive ; but as we become acquainted with the character of the 
Namaquas, who are partially-civilized Hottentots, the wonder 
ceases ; and we discover that they possess every vice of savages, 
and none of their noble qualities. So long as they are fed and 
clothed, they are willing enough to congregate round the mis- 
sionary, and to listen to his exhortation. The moment, however, 
the food and clothing are discontinued, their feigned attachment 
to his person and to his doctrines is at an end, and they do not 
scruple to treat their benefactor with ingratitude, and load him 
with abuse. 

The missionary is more or less dependent on his own resources. 
Such assistance as he obtains from the natives is so trivial, and 



1 The southern limit of Great Namaqua-land is, at the present moment, the 
Orange river. To the north it is bounded by Damara-land, or by about the 
twenty-second degree of south latitude. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 21 

procured with so much trouble, that it is often gladly dispensed 
with. The good man is his own architect, smith, wheel-wright, 
tinker, gardener, etc., whilst his faithful spouse officiates as nurse, 
cook, washerwoman, and so forth. Occasionally, to get the drudg- 
ery off their hands, they adopt some poor boy and girl, who, after 
they have been taught with infinite labor to make themselves 
useful, and have experienced nothing but kindness, will often 
leave their protectors abruptly, or, what is nearly as bad, become 
lazy and indolent. 

A Namaqua, it would appear, is not able to appreciate kind- 
ness, and no word in his language, as far as I can remember, 
is expressive of gratitude ! The same is the case, as I shall 
hereafter have occasion to mention, with their northern neigh- 
bors, the Damaras, and though a sad, it is, nevertheless, a true 
picture. 

When wagons were first introduced into Great Namaqua- 
land, they caused many conjectures, and much astonishment 
among the natives, who conceived them to be some gigantic 
animal possessed of vitality. A conveyance of this kind, belong- 
ing to the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, once broke down, and was left 
sticking in the sand. One day a Bushman came to the owner, 
and said that he had seen his " pack-ox" standing in the desert 
for a long time, with a broken leg ; and, as he did not observe 
it had any grass, he was afraid that it would soon die of hunger 
unless taken away ! 



CHAPTER III. 

PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY BREAKING IN OXEN DEPARTURE TROM 

SCHEPPMANSD0RF AN INFURIATED OX THE NAARIP PLAIN THE 

SCARLET FLOWER THE USAB GORGE — THE SWAKOP RIVER TRACKS 

OF RHINOCEROS SEEN ANECDOTE OF THAT ANIMAL A SUNRISE IN 

THE TROPICS — SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT AND THIRST ARRIVAL AT 

DAVIEP GREAT RESORT OF LIONS A HORSE AND MULE KILLED BY 

THEM THE AUTHOR GOES IN PURSUIT A TROOP OF LIONS UNSUC- 
CESSFUL CHASE MULE'S FLESH PALATABLE. 

Mr. G-alton had now so far altered his plans, that instead of 
proceeding up the country, with only one-half of his party, for 
the purchase of cattle, it was arranged that we should make the 
journey together. The wagons, and the bulk of our effects, 
were to be left at Scheppmansdorf, and we were only to take 
with us some few articles of exchange, a small quantity of pro- 
visions, and a moderate supply of ammunition. 

Finding, however, that the cart could not conveniently hold 
all our baggage, though now reduced to the smallest quantity 
possible, it was resolved to pack a portion on oxen. These 
animals, on account of their great hardihood, are invaluable in 
South Africa ; the more so, as they can be equally well used 
for draught, the " pack," or the " saddle." But as we had no 
cattle trained for either of these purposes, and only one or two 
were procurable at the missionary station, we were necessi- 
tated, prior to our departure thence, to break in a few. No 
easy matter, by-the-by ; for oxen are of a wild and stubborn 
disposition, and it requires months to make them tractable. 
We were, however, totally at a loss how to set to work. 

But, fortunately, at this time, Mr. Galton had engaged a Mr. 



BREAKTNG-IN OXEN. 23 

Stewardson — tailor by profession, but now "jack of all trades" — 
to accompany us up the country in the capacity of cicerone, 
etc. ; and as this man, from long residence amongst the Hot- 
tentots, was thorougly conversant with the mysteries of ox- 
breaking, to him, therefore, we deputed the difficult task. 

At the end of a " riem," or long leather thong, a pretty 
large noose is made, which is loosely attached to, or rather 
suspended from, the end of a slight stick some five or six feet 
in length. With this stick in his hand, a man, under shelter 
of the herd, stealthily approaches the ox selected to be operated 
on. When sufficiently near, he places the noose (though at 
some little distance from the ground) just in advance of the 
hind feet of the animal; and, when the latter steps into it, he 
draws it tight. The instant the ox finds himself in the toils, 
he makes a tremendous rush forward ; but as several people 
hold the outer end of the " riem," he — in sailor language — is 
quickly " brought up." The force of the check is, indeed, such 
as often to capsize one or more of the men. He now renews 
his efforts ; he kicks, foams, bellows ; and his companions, at first 
startled, return and join in chorus ; the men shout, the dogs 
bark furiously, and the affair becomes at once dangerous and 
highly exciting. The captured animal not unfrequently grows 
frantic with rage and fear, and turns upon his assailant, when the 
only chance of escape is to let go the hold of the " riem." 
Usually he soon exhausts himself by his own exertions, when 
one or two men instantly seize him by the tail — another thong 
having also been passed round his horns ; and, by bringing the 
two to bear in exactly opposite directions, or, in other words, by 
using the two as levers at a right-angle with his body, he is 
easily brought to the ground. This being once effected, the 
tail is passed between his legs and held forcibly down over 
his ribs, and the head is twisted on one side, with the 
horns fixed in the ground. A short, strong stick, of peculiar 
shape, is then forced through the cartilage of the nose ; and to 
either end of this stick is attached (in bridle fashion) a thin, 
tough, leathern thong. From the extreme tenderness of the 
nose, he is now more easily managed ; but, if he is still found 
very vicious, he is either packed in his prostrate position, or 
fastened with his head to a tree, whilst two or three persons 
keep the " riem" tight about his legs, so as to prevent him from 
turning round, or injuring any person with his feet. For 
the " packing," however, a more common and convenient plan 
is, to secure him between two tame oxen, with a person placed 
outside each of these animals. 



24 DEPARTURE FROM SCHEPPMANSDORF 

For the first day or two, only a single skin, or empty bag, is 
put on his back, which is firmly secured with a thong, eighty 
to ninety feet in length (those employed by the Namaquas, for 
the same purpose, are about twice as long) ; but bulk, as well 
as weight, is daily added ; and though he kicks and plunges 
violently — and sometimes with such effect as to throw off his 
pack — the ox soon becomes more tractable. Strange enough, 
those who show the most spirit in the beginning, are often 
the first subdued. But an ox that lies down, when in 
the act of " packing" him, generally proves the most trouble- 
some. Indeed, not one in ten that does so is fit for any- 
thing. 

I have seen oxen that no punishment, however severe, would 
induce to rise ; not even the application of fire. This would 
seem a cruel expedient ; but when it is remembered that his 
thus remaining immovable is entirely attributable to obstinacy, 
and that a person's life may depend on getting forward, the 
application of this torture admits of some excuse. 

But even when, at last, he has been trained to carry the pack 
or the saddle, there is another difficulty, scarcely less formida- 
ble, to overcome. From the gregarious habits of the ox, he is 
unwilling either to proceed in advance of the rest, or to remain 
at any distance behind his comrades ; and, if there is no one to 
lead, the whole troop will instantly come to a stand-still. 
Only a few can be trained as leaders. Such animals are always 
selected as have a quick step, and, of themselves, are in the 
habit of keeping ahead, and apart froiri the rest of the herd. 
Oxen of this description, at all times, hold the first rank in a 
traveling caravan. 

At length, after great exertions, and endless delays, we were 
able to fix upon the day for our departure. Our arrangements 
were as follows : — On the cart, which was drawn by eight 
mules, we placed about one thousand pounds, consisting chiefly 
of guns, presents for chieftains and others, articles for barter, 
implements of natural history, bedding, etc. Six hundred 
weight (ammunition and provisions) were besides distributed 
amongst four " pack"-oxen and one mule. 

The object of the expedition being entirely for the purpose 
of obtaining cattle for draught and slaughter, we were given to 
understand that, after about eight to ten days' journey, we 
should arrive at some native villages, where we might procure 
any number of beasts required. Our course, as far as we could 
understand, was to the northeast, and through an exceedingly 
wild and sterile part of the country. 



AN GX CHARGES MR. GALTON. 25 

On the morning of the 19th of September we left Schepp- 
mansdorf. The young cattle proved exceedingly unmanage- 
able ; and we had not been on the road many minutes, before a 
small handsome ox, which from the very beginning had given 
us much trouble in breaking in, left the herd and was appa- 
rently about retracing his steps to the missionary station. To 
prevent this, Gfalton and I endeavored to head him, on which he* 
set off at a rapid pace. On finding himself hard pressed, how- 
ever, he suddenly wheeled round and rushed toward my friend 
at headlong speed. Thinking it merely a demonstration, Mr. 
Galton remained stationary ; but by so doing he nearly lost his 
life, for the infuriated beast charged home. Fortunately, how- 
ever, his horn merely grazed my friend's leg, though it inflicted 
some injury on the shoulder of the horse. 

After this little adventure, we continued our route at a 
pretty quick pace, over a hard, crisp, gravelly country, totally 
devoid of water, with scarcely a vestige of vegetation. 

It was not until about ten o'clock at night, and after having 
traveled nearly twelve hours, that we reached a small granite 
rock, at the foot of which we succeeded in obtaining a few 
pints of very brackish water. Both Mr. Galton and myself 
were very tired. In order to save the horses, and to give the 
men an occasional mount, we had walked a considerable part 
of the way ; and after partaking of some coffee, etc., we quick- 
ly resigned our weary limbs to sleep. 

At break of Jay we were again stirring ; and whilst the men 
were harnessing the mules, etc., I ascended the rock, where I 
discovered a most beautiful air-plant in full blossom, of a bright 
scarlet color, with the lower part of the interior of the corolla 
tinged with lemon. 

The sight of such a lovely flower, in this dreary and desolate 
region, excited within me some emotion, and I now fully appre- 
ciated the touching expression of Mungo Park, when, having, 
in a state of complete exhaustion, thrown himself down to die, 
he discovered at his side a beautiful little moss, and exclaimed, 
" Can that Being who planted, watered, and brought to perfec- 
tion in this obscure part of the world, a thing which appears of 
so small importance, look with unconcern upon the situation 
and sufferings of a creature formed >after his own image ? 
Surely not !" 

Even the mighty Nimrod, Gordon Cumming, whose whole 
soul one would imagine to be engrossed by lions and elephants, 
seems to have been struck with equal delight as myself, at the 
sight of this charming flower : " In the heat of the chase," 



26 TRACKS OF RHINOCEROS SEEN. 

says he, " I paused spell-bound, to contemplate with admiration 
its fascinating beauty." 

We continued our journey over the same sterile plain (Naa- 
rip) till about ten o'clock, a. m., when we suddenly entered a 
narrow and desolate-looking mountain gorge, called Usab, slop- 
ing rapidly towards the bed of a periodical river. Here, under 
the shade of a stunted acacia, Stewardson recommended us to 
" outspan ;" and, leaving our cook in charge of the cart, we 
proceeded with the animals at once in search of water. 

For more than two miles we continued to follow the gorge, 
which, as we approached the river, assumed a more gloomy, 
though perhaps more striking, appearance, being overhung 
with towering and fantastically-shaped granite rocks. Not- 
withstanding this, the river — to which the natives give the name 
of Schwackaup, or Swakop, as Europeans call it — presented a 
most cheerful and pleasant aspect ; for, though not flowing at 
the time, its moist bed was luxuriantly overgrown with grass, 
creepers, and pretty ice-plants. The banks on either side were 
also more or less lined with gigantic reeds, of a most refreshing 
color ; and above the reeds rose several beautiful trees, such as 
the acacia, the black-ebony, etc. 

Under a projecting rock, a few paces from the spot where we 
struck upon the river, we discovered a pool of excellent water, 
where man and beast, in long and copious draughts, soon 
quenched a burning thirst. This being done, we indulged in a 
delicious bath, which highly refreshed our fatigued and dusty 
limbs. 

'On a lofty and inaccessible rock overhanging the river-bed, 
I again saw some of those beautiful flowers which in the early 
morning had caused me so much delight ; and, with a well- 
directed ball, I brought down one almost to my feet. 

In the sand we discovered the broad foot-prints of a rhino- 
ceros. From their freshness it was apparent that the monster 
had visited the river-bed during the preceding night, but all our 
endeavors to rouse him proved ineffectual. 

Whilst still talking about the prospect of soon seeing this 
singular animal in his native haunts, I remembered a story Mr. 
Bam had told us, of a wonderful escape he once had from one 
of these beasts, and which I will endeavor to give in his own 
words. 

" As we entered the Swakop river one day," said he, " we 
observed the tracks of a rhinoceros ; and, soon after unyoking 
our oxen, the men requested to be allowed to go in search of the 
beast. This I readily granted, only reserving a native to assist 



ANECDOTE OF THE RHINOCEROS. 27 

me in kindling the fire and preparing our meal. While we 
were thus engaged, we heard shouting and firing ; and, on 
looking in the direction whence the noise proceeded, discovered, 
to our horror, a rhinoceros, rushing furiously at us at the 
top of his speed. Our only chance of escape was the wagon, 
into which we hurriedly flung ourselves. And it was high time 
that we should seek refuge ; for the next instant the enraged 
brute struck his powerful horn into the " buik-plank" (the 
bottom boards), with such force as to push the wagon several 
paces forward, although it was standing in very heavy sand. 
Most providentially, he attacked the. vehicle from behind ; for, if 
he had struck it on the side, he could hardly have failed to 
upset it, ponderous as it was. From the wagon he made a 
dash at the fire, overturning the pot we had placed alongside it, 
and scattering the burning brands in every direction. Then, 
without doing any further damage, he proceeded on his wild 
career. Unfortunately, the men had taken with them all the 
guns ; otherwise, I might easily have shot him dead on the spot. 
The Damara, however, threw his assegai at him, but the soft 
iron bent like a reed against his thick and almost impenetrable 
hide." • 

The greater part of the afternoon was spent under the shade 
of some wide-spreading acacias, and hunting for specimens of 
natural history. A species of Francolin (francolinus adspersus), 
and one or two pretty kinds of fly-catchers, were amongst the 
day's spoil. 

A little before sunset we returned to the camp ; and, as we 
were to continue our journey on the morrow's dawn, we pick- 
eted the mules and horses, and made our encampment as snug 
as possible. Though the ground was our couch, and the sky our 
canopy, we slept soundly, and awoke early the next morning, 
greatly refreshed. "We much needed this renewal of our vigor, 
for the day proved exceedingly trying, both to men and cattle. 

Once more we were on the Naarip plain, though this time 
we traveled parallel with the Swakop (which here pursued an 
easterly course), on the edge of those gloomy rocks, through 
which its deep and turbulent channel has forced its way. 

Just as we entered this wild and dreary waste, the sun rose 
in all its refulgence, converting, as if by magic, the whole of 
the eastern sky into one mass of the most dazzling light — tint- 
ing the distant mountains with a soft vermilion, and causing 
the dew-bespangled pebbles beneath our feet to sparkle like 
so many diamonds. He who has not witnessed a sunrise or 
a sunset in the tropics (rendered the more remarkable by the 



28 ARRIVAL AT DAVIEP. 

nearly total absence of twilight), cannot form the least idea of 
its magnificence and splendor. 

But, alas ! these sights, so lovely to the eye, are often fol- 
lowed by such intense heats as to be nearly insupportable to 
the way-worn traveler. We were now in the month of Sep- 
tember, and the rays of the sun, at noon, falling almost ver- 
tically on our heads, caused a fearfully high state of tempera- 
ture. The hot sand, moreover, cruelly burnt our feet, and not 
a breath of wind stirred the glaring and seething atmosphere. 
To complete our misery, we suffered from the most violent thirst, 
which our scanty supply of water, half-boiling as it was, could 
in no way tend to mitigate. 

Our poor animals seemed to suffer as much as ourselves. 
Their gait, protruding tongues, and drooping heads indicated 
great distress. Still they toiled on, but slowly and painfully, 
through the sand, which had now become soft and yielding. 
Long before we had accomplished the day's stage, one of the 
mules dropped down from exhaustion, and we were obliged to 
leave the poor animal to its fate, trusting, however, that when 
the atmosphere should become a little cooler, it would follow 
on our track. We dared not stop, nor would delay have been of 
any avail ; for, as far as the eye could reach, neither bush nor 
blade of grass was to be seen. 

In the early morning, I rode one of the horses, but, after a 
time, observing that some of the men looked jaded and faint, I 
dismounted, and gave it up to them, proceeding myself on foot 
during the remainder of the day. Mr. Gralton had ridden in 
advance on the other horse, and, when we met, I was almost 
speechless from thirst, with my mouth and lips dreadfully 
parched. Often subsequently have I suffered cruelly from 
want of water, and for a much longer period than on the pre- 
sent occasion ; but never do I remember to have been so much 
distressed as now; for though, from childhood, accustomed and 
inured to privations of all lands, I had not previously experi- 
enced the effect of thirst under a tropical sun. 

Again we left our cart some little way from the river, and 
drove our thirsty and weary animals loose to the water, which 
was, fortunately, not far distant; but, though men and beasts 
drank to repletion, the water seemed to have lost its property, 
for our best endeavors to slake our thirst proved unavailing. 

The name of the place was Daviep, and it was reported to 
be a favorite resort of lions, who regularly reared their young 
in a neighboring mountain, called Tineas, whence they made 
predatory excursions. We accordingly lost no time in recon- 



A HORSE AND MULE KILLED BY LIONS. 29 

noitering the ground ; but not finding any indications of the 
presence of lions, or even that they had haunted the place 
lately, we had little apprehension of their paying us a visit ; 
and as the mules and horses sadly wanted rest and food, we 
deemed it advisable to leave them to themselves during the 
night, merely taking the precaution to " knee-halter" them. We 
paid dearly, however, for our too easy confidence. 

As, on our return to the cart in the evening, the mule that 
had been left behind in the course of the day had not yet 
made her appearance, I and Stewardson, each mounting an ox, 
returned to the spot where she had last been seen. The animal, 
however, had disappeared ; and, finding that her tracks led 
towards the river, where it would have been next to madness 
to follow her in the dark, we retraced our steps at once, trust- 
ing that instinct, which had made her go in search of water, 
would also be a guide in seeking her companions. 

Early on the following morning, one of the wagon-drivers was 
dispatched to the river to look after our animals, whilst Mr. Gal- 
ton and myself followed at our ease ; but what was our horror, 
on entering the bed of the stream, to find that several lions had 
recently passed and repassed it in every direction. This, to- 
gether with the absence of the mules and horses, at once fore- 
boded evil. We were not long left to conjectures ; for almost 
immediately our servant joined us, and said that a mule and a 
horse had been killed by the lions, and partly devoured. He 
added, that on his approaching the scene of the catastrophe, he 
saw five of those beasts feasting on the carcasses ; but on per- 
ceiving him they retreated with terrible growlings ! Instead 
of his presence having scared the lions from their prey, how- 
ever, as he asserted, we had reason to believe that so soon as he 
was aware of them, he immediately hid himself amongst the 
rocks, and that it was not until emboldened by seeing us he 
had left his hiding-place. Had it been otherwise, he would 
have had ample time to give us notice of what had occurred, 
prior to our leaving the encampment. 

Singularly enough, the dead mule was the identical one we 
had been in search of on the preceding night, and it would 
appear that it had just rejoined its companions, or was on the 
point of doing so, when it was attacked and killed. Being a 
remarkably fine and handsome animal, its loss was much regret- 
ted: the horse, moreover, was the best of the two we had brought 
from the Cape. 

On examining the ground, we were glad to find that the other 
horse and remaining mule had made good their escape down the 



30 THE AUTHOR GOES IN PURSUIT. 

bed of the river, though evidently pursued by the lions for some 
distance. How many of these beasts there really had been, we 
were unable to ascertain ; but they could not have been less 
than seven or eight. 

Having thus far ascertained the fate of the poor animals, we 
dispatched our brave wagon-driver for Stewardson, and the 
remainder of the men ; as also for proper guns and ammunition, 
as we had determined, if possible, to have our revenge. 

On leaving Scheppmansdorf we had, unfortunately, only 
brought with us three or four small goats as provision for the 
journey. This scanty supply was now nearly exhausted, and 
it being uncertain when we should meet with any native village 
where we could barter for more, we deemed it advisable, in order 
to provide against contingencies, to lay in a store of mule-flesh 
and horse-flesh ; and though our people seemed horror-stricken 
at the idea, there was not a second alternative. Whilst waiting 
the return of the men, we, accordingly, set about cutting off 
from the slain animals such pieces as had not been defiled by 
the lions. This being accomplished, we covered the meat with 
a heap of stones, and the men having arrived, we proceeded in 
search of the depredators. 

But, though we beat both sides of the river for a considerable 
distance, we were unable to discover the beasts. At one time, 
and when I was quite alone on the inner side of the thick reed- 
bed that lined the bank, I observed some beautiful " klip- 
springers," or mountain gazelles, and fired both barrels, though, 
unfortunately, without effect. The report of my gun caused a 
momentary consternation to Mr. Galton and the men, who ima- 
gined that I had fallen in with the lions, while, from the nature 
of the ground, they would have been unable to render me any 
assistance. 

Being at last obliged to give up the search, two or three of 
the men on whom we could best depend, were sent on the tracks 
of the scared mules and the remaining horse. After many hours' 
hard walking they were discovered ; but the poor beasts had 
received such a fright, that it was only with great trouble and 
exertion that they were secured. 

Thinking that the lions would in all probability return during 
the night, to make an end of what was left of the horse and mule, 
Galton and I determined to watch for them, and selected for our 
ambush the summit of a steep rock immediately near one of the 
carcasses. 

Shortly after sunset, we proceeded to put our plan into exe- 
cution ; and, having arrived within a short distance of the slain 



TROOP OF LIONS— UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE. 31 

animals, one of the people suddenly exclaimed — " Oh ! look at 
the six bucks !" Imagine our astonishment when, turning our 
eyes in the direction to which he pointed, we saw, instead of 
antelopes, six magnificent lions ; and this, moreover, on the 
very rock on which we had purposed ambushing ourselves, and 
where — as we foolishly imagined — we should have been in per- 
fect security ! 

On perceiving that they were discovered, the beasts retreated 
behind the rock ; but one or another of them would, neverthe- 
less, steal from its hiding-place occasionally, and take a peep 
at us 

Contrary to the counsel of Mr. Galton, and others of our 
party, I now ascended the acclivity where we had last seen the 
beasts ; but, although they were nowhere visible, I had every 
reason to believe the whole troop was not far distant from the 
spot where I stood. 

To have ambushed ourselves in the rock originally selected, 
was (from the evidence we had just had of its insecurity) not 
now to be thought of; and we therefore looked out for a safer 
place. The only one that offered, however, was a large acacia ; 
but it was more than two hundred yards from either of the 
carcasses, and its stem was so thick and straight, that it was 
impossible to ascend it. Moreover, total darkness had now 
succeeded the short twilight ; and, however reluctantly, we left 
the lions in full possession of the field and the remnant of their 
prey. 

On returning to our encampment, we found a wagon had 
arrived, belonging to Mr. Hahn, a missionary of the Rhenish 
society, settled amongst the Damaras. The vehicle was on its 
road to Scheppmansdorf, in order to fetch some goods that had 
recently arrived from the Cape. The driver civilly supplied us 
with a few sheep, which, to the great joy of our people, enabled 
us to dispense with the store of horse-flesh and mule-flesh we 
had just laid in. We did not, however, throw the meat away 
altogether, for both Mr. Galton and myself subsequently dined 
upon it on more than one occasion, and really found it very 
palatable, more especially that of the horse. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE GNOO AND THE GEMSBOK PURSUIT OF A RHINOCEROS VENOMOUS 

FLY FRUIT OF THE ACACIA NUTRITIOUS SUN-STROKE CRESTED 

PARROT A GIRAFFE SHOT TJOBIS FOUNTAIN SINGULAR OMELET 

NUTRITIOUS GUM ARRIVAL OF RICHTERFELDT MR. RATH AND THE 

MISSIONS THE DAMARAS : THEIR PERSONS, HABITS, ETC. LIONS 

TROUBLES OME PANIC HORSE SICKNESS . 

The second morning after the adventure with the lions, we 
continued our journey, alternately on the banks and in the bed 
of the Swakop. The road was exceedingly heavy, being, for 
the most part, composed of loose gravel and fine sand. 
Stewardson, who . had the management of our traveling ar- 
rangements, instead of starting us at daybreak or previously, 
as he ought to have done, did not put the cavalcade in motion 
until an hour after sunrise. The consequence was, that, before 
we were half through the allotted stage, the sun had reached 
its zenith, and scorched and harassed us dreadfully. 

As yet, with the exception of a few zebras, etc., we had seen 
no wild animals, though the " spoor" or track of the gnoo and 
gemsbok were frequent enough. This day, however, at a turn 
of the road, we came suddenly upon a few of the latter, but the 
sight so fascinated us, that instead of firing, as we might have 
done, for they were within range, we gazed at them in as- 
tonishment. 

We passed the night at a fountain called Annis, situated on 
the side of the river. On the following morning, and at only 
a few hundred paces from our bivouac, we discovered the tracks 
of several rhinoceroses. Finding that one of these animals 
had been drinking in a pool hard by, during the latter part of 



THE ACACIA TREE. 33 

the night, Galton, Stewardson, and myself, went in search of 
the beast, the cart following in the bed of the river. But, 
though we pursued the tracks of the animal, at a pretty rapid 
pace, for nearly three hours, we were unable to come up with 
him, and therefore discontinued the chase in despair, and re- 
joined our caravan. 

During the following day, I observed several curious look- 
ing crested parrots of a grayish color, which screamed discord- 
antly on our approach ; but as they always perched on the top 
of the very highest trees, and kept an excellent look out, I 
could not possibly get within gunshot. 

I met, besides, with a vast number of delicate and pretty 
butterflies ; as also a wasp-looking fly, of the most brilliant 
dark blue. Having struck one of these to the ground, I was 
about to secure it, when it stung me severely in the hand, and, 
in a very few seconds, the wounded part began to fester, and 
swelled to an enormous size, causing the most acute pain. 

Whilst following the bed of the river, our mules and cattle 
fared sumptuously ; for, although we found but little grass, 
there was always an abundance of fine young reeds ; but, until 
animals are accustomed to this diet, it only serves to weaken 
them. Cattle, however, that are used to this coarse food, soon 
become fat ; and, when killed, prove, contrary to what might 
be expected, capital eating. When the reeds become somewhat 
old and dry, they are fired by the natives, and, in a fortnight 
or three weeks, they have again attained a luxuriant growth. 

The pods of a species of acacia (ana), which had dropped 
from the trees, were, also, much relished by the cattle. Stew- 
ardson informed us that when the latter are able to feed on 
them regularly, they soon- become fat. The fruit has an acrid 
taste, but is not altogether unpalatable. 

The wood of this tree, though straight-grained, close, and 
weighty, is not considered good for implements of husbandry. 
I have been assured, however, that when the tree is burned 
down, the quality of the wood is much improved ! 

Stewardson's habit of starting late had nearly proved fatal 
to me ; for one day, whilst pursuing on foot some interesting 
birds, I had fallen considerably behind my companions, and, in 
order to come up with them, I was necessitated to put my best 
foot forward. The sun's rays (in themselves exceedingly power- 
ful) being reflected from the surrounding barren hills, and the 
burning sand, made the heat equal to that of an oven. 

I had only just caught sight of our party, when I was 
seized with sudden giddiness, and the horrible idea flashed 
3 



34 SUN-STROKE CRESTED PARROT. 

across my mind that I had received a " sun-stroke.'' Being 
fully aware of the danger, I collected all my energies, and made 
the most strenuous efforts to overtake my friend. But the 
stupor increased every moment, and my voice became so faint, 
that for a long time I was unable to make myself heard. How- 
ever, I did at last succeed, and Gralton at once rode up to me 
and placed his horse at my disposal. It was high time, for 
another minute would probably have proved too late. As it 
was, I managed with great difficulty to reach a small clump of 
trees hard by, and tumbling off the animal remained for some 
time in a state of almost total unconsciousness. When at last 
I recovered from this stupor, the heat was less, and a gentle 
breeze having sprung up, I was able slowly to proceed. My 
head, however, ached intolerably. 

The usual result of a coup-de-soleil is known to be almost in- 
stantaneous death, or an affection of the brain for life. In my 
case I expected nothing short of the latter infliction. Happily, 
however, after about several months, daily suffering, I was 
thoroughly restored ; and in time I could brave heat and fatigue 
as well as any native. 

Having followed the course of the Swakop for some days, we 
struck into one of its tributaries called Tjobis. At the mouth 
of this stream we met, for the first time, with a vast number of 
guinea-fowls, which we afterwards found very common through- 
out the country. We also made acquaintance with one or two 
species of toucans ; and I succeeded at last in obtaining 
several specimens of the parrot-looking birds of which mention 
has lately been made. They were the chizoerhis concolor of 
Doctor Smith. 

After many hours of fatiguing travel, we met Galton, who 
had ridden on in advance. His face beamed with delight, 
whilst announcing to us that he had just killed a fine giraffe. 
The news was most welcome to every one ; for, to say 
nothing of the prospect of a feast, the heat of the sun, and the 
heavy nature of the ground, made us all feel exceedingly 
weary ; and we were, therefore, extremely glad of a pretext to 
take some repose. 

The mules were forthwith unharnessed, and all hands were 

ut in requisition to cut up our prize and to "jerk" the meat ; 
ut this proved lean and tough. 

The bones, however, of the giraffe contain a great deal of mar- 
row, which, when properly prepared, is eaten with gusto by 
every one ; and, even when in a raw state, is sometimes 
greedily devoured by the natives. 



TJOBIS FOUNTAIN SINGULAR OMELET. 35 

As there was no water where we had " outspanned," we were 
obliged, towards evening, to continue our journey; and when 
we arrived at " Tjobis Fountain," situated in the bed of the 
Tjobis river, it was already dark. 

Here we were at once visited by several Hill-Damaras, of 
whom more hereafter. On finding that a giraffe had been killed, 
and that they were at liberty to take what flesh we had left, 
their joy knew no bounds, and some of them actually returned 
that same night to the carcass. These men kindly brought us 
some sweet gum, a kind of coarse stir-about made from the seeds 
of a species of grass, and a few ostrich eggs. 

Our cook soon made us an excellent omelet from one of the 
last, and that by a very simple process. A hole is made at one 
end of the egg, through which is introduced some salt, pepper, 
etc. The egg is then well shaken, so as thoroughly to mix the 
white, the yolk, and the several ingredients mentioned. It is 
then placed in the hot ashes, where it is baked to perfection. 
An egg thus prepared, although supposed to contain as much as 
twenty-four of the common fowl egg, is not considered too much 
for a single hungry individual ! 

We remained nearly two days at " Tjobis Fountain," which 
gave our animals time to recover a little from their late exhaust- 
ion ; but, as it was reported to be another favorite resort of 
lions, and recollecting that we had lately been taught a severe 
lesson, we took the precaution — as may well be imagined — to 
secure the horse and the mules during the night. Many zebras 
came off in the dark to drink, but always absented themselves 
during the day; and the heat was too intense and harassing for 
pursuing them at a distance. 

The soil continued sandy, as before ; but the vegetation had, 
notwithstanding, vastly improved ; for, instead of naked and 
desolate plains, the ground was now covered with a profusion 
of thin grass, dwarfish shrubs, isolated aloes, and one or two 
species of thorn trees. The latter produced, at this season, an 
abundance of excellent and nutritious gum, which, though 
almost as sweet as sugar, might be partaken of in any quantity 
without the least inconvenience or disagreeable consequence. 

In the afternoon of the third day, we took our departure from 
" Tjobis Fountain," and, at an early hour on the following morn- 
ing, found ourselves, once more, in the bed of the Swakop ; but 
here, unfortunately, our mules came to a dead stand-still, and 
nothing could induce them to proceed any further. Indeed, 
they were completely knocked up, and we had entirely to thank 
Stewardson for this misfortune; for had we traveled by night, 



36 ARRIVAL AT RICHTERFELD1. 

as we ought to have done, instead of during the hottest part of 
the day, the poor creatures might have been as fresh as when 
they left Scheppmansdorf, and we ourselves spared much suffer- 
ing. It stands to reason that no animal, however hardy, will 
bear much work or fatigue in the day at this terribly hot season 
of the year. Fortunately, the missionary station, of Richter- 
feldt, was now within two hours' ride, and Galton at once 
pushed on, for the purpose of obtaining assistance. In a short 
time, six oxen, with attendants, yokes, etc., arrived, and we 
were able to prosecute our journey without further delay. On 
reaching the station, we were most kindly and hospitably re- 
ceived by the Rev. Mr. Rath, of the Rhenish society. 

Richterfeldt is prettily situated on the bank of the river Swa- 
kop, and at the junction of one of its tributaries, the Ommu- 
tenna. It is well supplied with fresh water, which is either 
obtained from a prolific mineral spring, or by digging a few 
inches in the bed of the rivers. There is an abundance of gar- 
den ground, which, when properly cultivated and irrigated, is 
exceedingly productive. Nearly all European vegetables thrive 
well ; wheat grows to perfection, and is of excellent quality ; 
but here, as at Scheppmansdorf, floods, at times, cause sad havoc. 
The pasturages are extensive and excellent. 

Richterfeldt was founded in 1848 ; and Mr. Rath had, conse- 
quently, not been very long settled there. Pie had taken up 
his quarters in a temporary hut, consisting of a mud wall, four 
feet high, covered over by mat-work and canvas. At the back 
of his house were three small native villages, composed of about 
fifty or sixty wretched hovels, and numbering — children included 
— about two hundred inhabitants. They were all very poor ; 
but a few possessed a small drove of sheep or goats, which they 
obtained in barter for goods given them by the missionary as 
recompense for labor, errands, and other services. The cur- 
rency is iron ware ; the regular price for an ox, at this time, was 
an iron assegai, without the handle ; that of a sheep or goat, a 
certain quantity of iron or copper wire — or two pieces of iron 
hoop, each five or six inches in length. The Damaras have a 
perfect mania for copper and iron, but more especially for the 
latter ; and it is strange to see how well a few pieces of polished 
iron become them, when worn as ornaments. 

The Damaras, speaking generally, are an exceedingly fine race 
of men. Indeed, it is by no means unusual to meet with indi- 
viduals six feet and some inches in height, and symmetrically 
proportioned withal. Their features are, besides, good and re- 
gular ; and many might serve as perfect models of the human 



THE DAMARAS COSTUME. 39 

figure. Their air and carriage, moreover, is very graceful and 
expressive. But, though their outward appearance denotes great 
strength, they can by no means compare, in this respect, with 
even moderately strong Europeans. 

The complexion of these people is dark, though not entirely 
black ; but great difference is observable in this respect. Hence, 
in their own language, they distinguish between the Ovathorondu 
— the black individuals — and Ovatherandu, or red ones. Their 
eyes are black, but the expression is rather soft. 

I never saw any albinos in Damara-land, though such are said 
to occur amongst the Caffres. 

The women are often of the most delicate and symmetrical 
shape, with full and rounded forms, and very small hands and 
feet. Nevertheless, from their precarious mode of life, and con- 
stant exposure to the sun, etc., any beauty they possess is soon 
lost ; and, in a more advanced age, many become the most 
hideous of human beings. 

Both sexes are exceedingly filthy in their habits. Dirt often 
accumulates to such a degree on their persons, as to make the 
color of their skin totally indistinguishable; while, to complete 
the disguise, they smear themselves with a profusion of red ochre 
and grease. Hence the exhalation hovering about them is dis- 
gusting in the extreme. 

Neither men nor women wear much clothing. Their habili- 
ments consist merely of a skin or two of sheep or goats, with 
the hair on or off, which they wrap loosely round the waist, or 
throw across the shoulders. These skins, as with their own 
limbs, are besmeared with large quantities of red ochre and 
grease; and, with the wealthier classes, are ornamented with 
coarse iron and copper beads, of various size. 

The men usually go bareheaded ; but, in case of cold or rain, 
they wear a sort of cap, or rather piece of skin, which they can 
convert into any shape or size that fancy may dictate. 

Independently of the skins, the women wear a kind of bodice, 
made from thousands of little rounded pieces of ostrich egg- 
shells, strung on threads — seven or eight such strings being fast- 
ened together ; but I am not sure that it is not more for orna- 
ment than real utility. The head-dress of the married women 
is curious and highly picturesque, being not unlike a helmet in 
shape and general appearance. 

Boys are usually seen in a state of almost absolute nudity. 
The girls, however, wear a kind of apron, cut up into a number 
of fine strings, which are sometimes ornamented with iron and 
copper beads. 



40 PERSONAL DECORATION WEAPONS. 

Few ornaments are worn by the men, who prefer seeing them 
on the persons of their wives and daughters. They delight, 
however, in an amazing quantity of thin leathern " riems" (form- 
ing also part of their dress), which they wind around their loins 
in a negligent and graceful manner. These "riems" — which are 
often many hundred feet in length — serve as a receptacle for 
their knobsticks, or kieries, their arrows, etc. ; but become, at 
the same time, a refuge for the most obnoxious insects. 

The women, when they can afford it, wear a profusion of iron 
and copper rings — those of gold or brass are held in little esti- 
mation — round their wrists and ankles. 

The weapons of the Damaras are the assegai, the kierie, and 
the bow and arrow ; they have also a few guns. 

The head of the assegai consists of iron, and is usually kept 
well polished ; being, moreover, of a soft texture, it is easily 
sharpened, or repaired, if out of order. The shaft, though, at 
times, also made of iron, is commonly of wood, the end being 
usually ornamented with a bushy ox-tail. On account of its 
great breadth, the assegai is not well adapted for stabbing, and 
its weight is such that it cannot be thrown to any considerable 
distance. This weapon, in short, is chiefly used instead of a 
knife, and, though rather an awkward substitute, it answers the 
purpose tolerably well. 

The kierie is a favorite weapon with the Damaras. They 
handle it with much adroitness, and kill birds and small quad- 
rupeds with surprising dexterity. Most savage tribes in South- 
ern Africa use this instrument with great advantage and effect. 
Thus, in speaking of the Matabili, Harris says : "They rarely 
miss a partridge or a guinea-fowl on the wing." In an experi- 
enced hand, the kierie becomes a most dangerous and effective 
weapon, as a single well-directed blow is sufficient to lay low 
the strongest man. 

The bow and arrow, on the other hand, though a constant 
companion, is not, with the Damaras, as effective as it ought to 
be. They never attain perfection in archery. At ten or a 
dozen yards, they will shoot tolerably well ; but, beyond that 
distance, they are wretched marksmen. 

The Damaras are divided into two large tribes, the Ovaherero 
and the Ovapantiereu, of which the former lives nearest to the 
sea ; still, with the exception of a slight difference in the lan- 
guage, they appear to be one and the same people. They may 
again be divided into rich and poor Damaras, 1 or those who sub- 

1 To prevent confusion, when speaking hereafter of these people, I shall sim- 



THE LIONS A PANIC. 41 

sist on the produce of their herds ; and those who have no cat- 
tle, or, at least, very few, and who live chiefly by the chase, and 
what wild fruit and roots they can pick up abroad. These are 
called Ovatjimba, and are looked upon with the utmost con- 
tempt by the prosperous classes, who reduce them to a state 
of slavery, and do not even scruple to take their lives. 

But as the Damaras are little known to Europeans, much is 
to be said of them, and they will require a chapter to them- 
selves. I shall, therefore, reserve a more detailed account of 
their peculiarities, customs, manners, etc., to a later period, 
when I became better acquainted with them and their coun- 
try. 

In consequence of an unusually severe drought this year, most 
of the rain-pools in the neighborhood of Richterfeldt were dried 
up ; but, as spring-water was still to be found at that place, a 
great number of wild animals nightly congregated there. As 
usual under such circumstances, the game was followed by 
troops of lions, who were a constant annoyance to us. To 
guard against their attacks, we had, on our first arrival, made a 
strong fence or inclosure round the camp, but even then we did 
not feel very secure. 

One evening, these beasts were more than usually trouble- 
some. The sun had hardly sunk below the horizon, when they 
began their terror-striking music, and kept it up without inter- 
mission till a late hour, when all became silent. Believing that 
they had taken themselves off, I sent the men, who had been 
watching, to sleep. I was, however, deceived ; for two hours 
had hardly elapsed, when, within a very short distance of our 
encampment, there arose a most horrible roaring, intermingled 
with the rushing to and fro, the kicking, plunging, and neigh- 
ing of a troop of zebras, which instantly brought every man to 
his feet, and the consternation and confusion became indescrib- 
able. Some of them rushed about like maniacs, lamenting most 
piteously that they ever left the Cape. Others convulsively 
grasped their blankets in their arms, and cried like children ; 
whilst a few stood motionless with fear and anguish depicted in 
their countenances. It was in vain that I tried to calm their 
agitation. They seemed fully convinced that their last hour 
had come, and that they should perish miserably by the fangs 
of wild beasts. 

On going just outside the inclosure, I could distinctly see the 

ply call them Damaras, in contradistinction to the Hill-Damaras, who are a to- 
tally different race of natives. 



42 HORSE SICKNESS. 

glimmering of lions' eyes, as our small, well-kept bivouac-fire 
fell full upon them. I sent a ball or two after the intruders, 
but, as it appeared afterwards, without effect. 

The next morning, we found that the zebras had escaped un- 
scathed ; and we attributed the unusual anger and ferocity of 
their pursuers to the disappointment they had experienced in 
losing their favorite prey. 

We had only been a short time at Richterfeldt, when three 
of our mules and the remaining horse were seized with a mor- 
tal disease, and, in the course of a few hours, they all died. 
Though the loss of the animals was great to us, their death was 
a god-send to the poor Damaras, who devoured the carcasses 
bodily, and without the least disagreeable result. 

The distemper in question is usually known by the vague 
name of " paarde-sikte" (the horse-sickness) ; and, as the cause 
is totally unknown, no remedy has yet been found efficient to 
stop it. Throughout Great Namaqua-land it is particularly fa- 
tal. Some people attribute this singular disease to poisonous 
herbs, of which the animals have inadvertently partaken ; 
others, to the dew; and others, again, to the eating the 
young grass j 1 but all these suppositions are highly improb- 
able, for reasons which it would be unnecessary to enter into 
here. 

Fatal as the disease is to horses, yet, happily, there are places 
(even in districts where it commits the greatest ravages) that 
are always exempt from it. And, as these localities are well 
known to the natives, if one's horse be sent to them prior to 
the commencement of the sickly season — usually the months 
of November and December — the animals invariably escape the 
malady. The attack of our animals was an unusual exception 
to this rule ; for they fell victims to the disease fully a month 
prior to the rainy season. 

From the Orange river, on the south, and as far north as Eu- 
ropeans have penetrated from the Cape side, this deadly disease 
is known to prevail, and is one of the greatest drawbacks to suc- 
cessful traveling in South Africa. 

1 A similai' notion prevails with regard to that most curious little animal, the 
lemming (lemmus norvegicus, Worm.), on whose mysterious appearance and dis- 
appearance so many hypotheses have been unsatisfactorily expended. See 
Lloyd's " Scandinavian Adventures," vol. ii., chap. v. 



CHAPTER V. 

HANS LAESEN HIS EXPLOITS HE JOINS THE EXPEDITION HOW PEOPLE 

TRAVEL ON OX-BACK — RHINOCEROS HUNT DEATH OF THE BEAST " LOOK 

BEFORE YOU LEAP" ANECDOTE PROVING THE TRUTH OF THE PROVERB 

HANS AND THE LION THE DOCTOR IN DIFFICULTIES SUFFERINGS ON 

THE NAARIP PLAIN ARRIVAL AT SCHEPPMANSDORF. 

When at the Cape, we heard much of an individual named 
Hans Larsen, who was distinguished in a very remarkable degree, 
for courage, energy, perseverance, and endurance. This man 
was a Dane by birth, and a sailor by profession ; but, becom- 
ing disgusted with a sea-faring life, had, a few years previously, 
left his ship, and was now residing somewhere near to Walfisch 
Bay. 

On visiting Mr. Bam, at Scheppmansdorf, that gentleman con- 
firmed to the full all we had been told about Hans, and strong- 
ly recommended Mr. Galton to take him into his service. It 
was not, however, until our arrival at Richterfeldt, where Hans 
then resided, that we had an opportunity to make his personal 
acquaintance. Up to a rather recent period, he had been in 
charge of a herd of cattle ; but he was now living independ- 
ently on the produce of his live-stock and the spoils of the 
chase. 

Hans was a fine specimen of the true Northman — fair com- 
plexion, light hair, blue eyes ; and, though not above the ordi- 
nary stature, he was very muscular and powerfully built. His 
strength, indeed, almost exceeded belief. One of his feats was to 
carry an enormous anvil — which no ordinary man could lift from 
the ground — with as many persons as could possibly cling to it. 



44 HANS LARSEN. 

On one occasion, he had borne from place to place a block oi 
stone, which required ten men to lift on to his shoulders ! 

In consequence of his great strength and courage, he was 
much feared by the natives, who, nevertheless, took pleasure 
in teasing him ; but being of a very quiet disposition, he seldom 
resented their impertinences. One day, however, when they 
had carried their jokes somewhat too far, he raised his Herculean 
fist, and, with a single blow, leveled to the ground the nearest 
of his tormentors. At first, it was thought that the man was 
killed ; but, fortunately, he was only stunned. On recovering 
from his stupor, he vowed vengeance ; but, unable to carry out 
his purpose alone, he laid his complaint before the chief of the 
tribe; and a " raad," or council, was held. Many were for 
severe punishment — but, at last, when all the members had 
spoken, the chief rose and told them that, in his opinion, the 
offense should be passed over — and that, for the future, it would 
be better not to molest Hans ; for, if they did, they would only 
fare worse. This advice was felt to be a prudent caution — and 
from that day forward they ceased to worry the Dane. 

Hans was an excellent and indefatigable sportsman, and so 
successful that, though the country, on his first arrival, literally 
teemed with rhinoceroses, lions, giraffes, zebras, gnoos, gemsboks, 
etc., he had all but exterminated them. 

To give the reader some idea of the abundance of game and 
wild beasts, then existing in this part of Africa, I may mention 
that Hans once shot, with his own hand, no less than nine rhi- 
noceroses in the course of a single day. 1 

Hans ate very little animal food ; but, whenever he could 
afford it, he drank an amazing quantity of tea and coffee. 
His chief nourishment, however, was thick sour milk, which 
he swallowed in gallons. It is wonderful how people thrive on 
this diet, which is the main sustenance of the Damaras, who, 
as has already been said, are remarkably fine-looking men. 

Hans, on the proposal being made to him by Mr. Galton, 
agreed to accompany us in the capacity of head man ; and we 
were truly fortunate to secure so able and practiced a hand. 

Indeed, from after-experience, it is very doubtful whether we 
should have been able to get on without him. We had, more- 
over, found that it would be next to impossible to obtain from the 
natives, by barter, any considerable number of cattle ;-and, even 

1 His hunting dress, on these occasions, consisted simply of a thick, coarse, 
blue shirt or blouse, secured, by a belt, round his waist, containing his balls, caps, 
wadding, etc. 



HIDING- ON OX-BACK. 45 

had we succeeded, they would have been so wild and unmanage- 
able, that we could not have made use of them for months. Now, 
as Hans had a small drove of his own, several of which were al- 
ready broken-in, and the rest more or less tractable, and was 
willing to part with them at a moderate price, Mr. Galton se- 
cured the whole lot without a moment's hesitation, and thus 
we had overcome a difficulty which had long given us some un- 
easiness. 

Hans had in his employ an English lad, named John Allen, 
who had also been a sailor, and who, like his master, had left 
his ship in Walfisch Bay. In the absence of his employer, John 
had been accustomed to take charge of the cattle and the house ; 
and being an excellent and well-behaved youth, he also was ad- 
mitted into Mr. Galton's service. 

After a few days' rest, it was determined that Hans and my- 
self, together with most of the people, should return to Schepp- 
mansdorf, for the purpose of breaking-in the oxen, and bring- 
ing up the wagons and the stores. 

Hans presented me with an ox called " Spring," which I 
afterwards rode upwards of two thousand miles. On the day 
of our departure, he mounted us all on oxen, and a curious 
sight it was to see some of the men take their seats who had 
never before ridden on ox-back. It is impossible to guide an 
ox as one would guide a horse, for in the attempt to do so you 
would instantly jerk the stick out of his nose, which at once 
deprives you of every control over the beast; but by pulling 
both sides of the bridle at the same time, and towards the side 
you wish him to take, he is easily managed. Your seat is no 
less awkward and difficult ; for the skin of the ox, unlike that 
of the horse, is loose ; and, notwithstanding your saddle may be 
tightly girthed, you keep rocking to and fro, like a child in a 
cradle. A few days, however, enables a person to acquire a 
certain steadiness, and long habit will do the rest. 

Ox-traveling, when once a man is accustomed to it, is not 
so disagreeable as might be expected, particularly if one suc- 
ceed in obtaining a tractable animal. On emergencies, an ox 
can be made to proceed at a tolerably quick pace ; for though 
his walk is only about three miles an hour at an average, he 
may be made to perform double that distance in the same time. 
Mr. Galton once accomplished twenty-four miles in four hours, 
and that, too, through heavy sand! 

Early one morning we reached Annis Fountain, where, as on 
a previous occasion, we observed a number of rhinoceros tracks. 
Leaving the men to take care of the oxen, Hans, Stewardson, 



46 RHINOCEROS HUNT. 

and myself selected the freshest " spoor," and started off in 
pursuit ; but after several hours' hard walking under a burn- 
ing sun, we were apparently as far from the quarry as ever, and 
Stewardson, who was quite knocked up, used his best endea- 
vors to persuade us from proceeding further. We would not 
listen to him, however, but, allowing him to return to the en- 
campment, continued to toil on, though with but little hope of 
success. 

An hour might have elapsed, after we had thus parted from 
Stewardson, when I observed in a distant glen a dark object, 
which, as it excited my suspicion, I instantly pointed out to 
Hans, who would not believe that it was anything but a large 
"boulder." Nevertheless, we proceeded towards the spot, and 
I soon saw that the shapeless mass was nothing less than the 
rhinoceros of which we were in seach. Hans, however, who 
had had frequent opportunities of seeing this animal in all posi- 
tions, remained skeptical on the point ; and it was not till we 
were within about twenty paces of the beast that his doubts 
were removed. With noiseless and quickened step, and our 
guns on the full cock, we made up to the monster, which still 
gave no signs of life. At last, however, one of us whistled ; on 
which, and with the rapidity of thought, the beast sat up on 
its haunches, and surveyed us with a curious and sulky look. 
But it was only a moment ; for, before he had time to get on 
his legs, two well-directed balls laid him prostrate within less 
than half-a-dozen paces of our feet. 

In the pride of success, I somewhat foolishly leaped upon his 
back, and, African-like, plunged my hunting-knife into the 
flesh to ascertain if our prize was fat. But whether life was 
not altogether extinct, or that the sudden access of my weight 
caused a vibration in the lately-living body, certain it is that I 
felt the beast move under me, when, as may be supposed, I 
speedily jumped to the ground again, and made off. Though 
my apprehensions in this instance were groundless, the fol- 
lowing anecdote, related to me by the natives, will show that 
there is considerable danger in too quickly approaching an ap- 
parently dead rhinoceros: — 1 

Some Namaquas had shot one of these animals, as it was 



1 Most auimals, when shot, or otherwise killed, fall on their sides ; but the rhi- 
noceros is often an exception to this rule, at least such is my experience. In nine 
cases out of ten, of all those I have killed during my wanderings in Africa — and 
they amount to upwards of one hundred — -I have found them on their knees, with 
the fore part of their ponderous heads resting on the ground. 



HANS' ADVENTURE WITH A LION. 47 

rising from its sleep. One of the party, imagining the beast to 
be dead, straightway went up to it ; and (with like object as 
myself) acted precisely as I had done. The beast, however, 
had only been stunned ; and as soon as he felt the cold steel 
enter his body, he started to his feet and made off at full speed. 
This action was so instantaneous as to prevent the man from 
dismounting, and the other Namaquas were paralyzed with 
fear. Fortunately, however, after the beast had run forty or 
fifty paces, he suddenly stopped short and looked round. The 
favorable opportunity was not lost — for one of the party, more 
courageous than the rest, instantly fired, and, as good luck 
would have it, brought the animal to the ground, with his ter- 
ror-stricken rider still clinging to his back. 

On rejoining our party, Stewardson was not a little surprised 
at our success, and mortified at his own want of perseverance. 
The flesh of the rhinoceros was poor, but not unpalatable ; 
and we remained a day at Annis, to cut up and dry part of it as 
provision for the journey. We also carried away a goodly 
supply of the beast's hide, for the purpose of converting it 
into " shamboks." 1 

One day, as I was riding with Hans, he pointed out to me a 
place where he had been attacked by a lion in broad daylight, 
pulled off his ox, and only escaped death by a miracle. 

Not being encumbered by a vehicle, we were now able to 
hold the course of the Swakop uninterruptedly ; but, on arriving 
at the Usab gorge, it became necessary to leave the river, and 
to cross the Naarip plain to Scheppmansdorf. From the great 
length of this stage (fifteen hours' actual travel), and the total 
absence of water and pasturage, it is necessary to traverse it 
during the night. As thick fogs and mists, however, are not 
uncommon here, the traveler is exposed to some risk. It not 
unfrequently happens that he loses the track — the result of 
which usually is that, when the day breaks upon him, he finds 
himself either back at the place from which he started, or in 



^he "shambok" (a Dutch term) consists of a strip of the stoutest part of the 
hide of the rhinoceros, or the hippopotamus. After being stretched on the ground, 
and when it has acquired a certain stiffness, the strip is subjected to a severe 
hammering, for the double purpose of condensing it, and giving it a rounded 
shape. It is then reduced to the desired size by means of a knife, or plane ; and, 
lastly, a piece of sand-paper, or glass — if at hand — is employed to give it the 
finishing smoothness and polish. The " shambok" is exceedingly tough and plia- 
ble, will inflict the most severe wounds and bruises, and will last for years. The 
price of one of these " whips," in the colony, varies from eighteen pence to as 
much as nine or ten shillings. 



48 the doctor's adventure. 

some unknown part of the plain. Instances are narrated of 
people having remained in this inhospitable desert as long as 
three days! " Losing the way," as my friend Gal ton says, "is 
the rule here, and not the exception ; and a person who has 
crossed the plain without doing so, rather plumes himself upon 
the feat." 

Hans recited to me the particulars of an adventure which 
happened to an European in this wilderness. During the time 
Captain Greybourn (to whom allusion has already been made) 
was established at Walfisch Bay, the medical gentleman who 
resided with him had occasion to cross the Naarip plain ; but, 
being a total stranger to the country, he engaged a Hottentot 
as guide. The day proved hot and oppressive, and the way- 
farers had not proceeded far, when the doctor felt faint and 
thirsty. On inquiry of his attendant, whether any water could 
be obtained, he received a sulky and unsatisfactory answer, and 
was about to prosecute his journey, when the man thus 
abruptly addressed him — 

" You've got a very nice hat, sir, which you must give me, 
or I will not stir another step." 

Under ordinary circumstances, to comply with such a request 
would have been inconvenient ; but it was still more annoying 
in the present instance, exposed, as the doctor was, to a scorch- 
ing sun. Finding himself, however, entirely at the man's 
mercy, and seeing nothing but a howling wilderness all around 
him, he grudgingly gave the hat, hoping to be exempted from 
further importunity. But he was mistaken in this matter ; for 
he had not proceeded much further when the Hottentot sat 
himself quietly down on the sand, complaining bitterly of the 
immense distance they had yet to perform, adding, with a sly 
look at the doctor, that he thought his jacket would fit him ex- 
actly ! The medical gentleman was amazed at the fellow's 
impudence, and, at first, refused this new demand; but, as the 
man said that unless he received the garment he would leave 
him to his fate, he was obliged to comply. 

In this manner, he gradually divested the chicken-hearted 
doctor of his apparel ; and would, in all probability, not have 
left him in possession of the shirt on his back, had it not been 
for the timely arrival of Hans and another European, then on 
their way to Walfisch Bay. The doctor's story was, of course, 
soon told, and the rascally Hottentot was not only deprived of 
his booty, but soundly thrashed into the bargain. 

After having given the animals the necessary rest, we set 
out the next afternoon, about three o'clock, on the last stage 



THE NAARIP PLAIN. 49 

for Scheppmansdorf. As the evening was starlight, we pro- 
ceeded at a brisk pace till about midnight, when there sud- 
denly arose from the sea a gloomy, bitter cold mist, which soon 
enveloped us in total darkness, ayd completely saturated every 
article of our dress. Unfortunately, in the early part of the 
night, we had purposely left the wagon-track to save a very 
circuitous part of the road, and we had now nothing to guide 
us. Still we toiled on as well as we could. 

But we had great difficulty in getting the poor Damaras to 
keep pace with us, who, being naked, suffered extremely. 
Every ten minutes, they would lie down on the cold sand, per- 
fectly indifferent to the consequences. If we had not used the 
utmost vigilance in keeping them moving, I am quite con- 
vinced that some of them would have perished. Towards 
morning, the cold became so intense that I was no longer 
capable of holding the reins, and, therefore, dismounted, and 
proceeded on foot. Daybreak brought no relief; for the fog 
still prevented us from ascertaining our position. The instinct 
of the oxen, however, came to our rescue, and, by giving 
them their own way, they soon took us safely to our des- 
tination. 



CHAPTER VI. 

RETURN TO SCHEPPMANSDORF TRAINING OXEN FOR THE YOKE SPORT- 
ING THE FLAMINGO THE BUTCHER-BIRD : CURIOUS SUPERSTITION 

REGARDING IT PREPARING FOR JOURNEY SERVANTS DESCRIBED. 

Mr. and Mrs. Bam, and their family, were, I was glad to 
find, in good health ; and, as heretofore, they gave me not 
only a most kind reception, but placed at my disposal the 
best of everything which the house afforded. 

It is wonderful what habit and association will effect. 
When I visited Scheppmansdorf in the first instance, I thought 
it the most dismal spot that human eye ever rested on. But, 
in the short space of a few weeks, it had almost become en- 
deared to me. I found what Shakespeare calls the " soul of 
goodness in things evil." Dreariness was softened down into 
peaceful seclusion ; the savage country round about assumed 
the dignity of primeval nature, fresh from the hand of the 
Creator ; and the solemn and stern night-silence only hushed 
me into sounder sleep. These feelings, and this trusting 
repose, mainly originated in the kind ministrations, and unaf- 
fected welcome, of sincere friends. 

After a day or two's rest, we began the difficult and 
laborious task of breaking-in the oxen; but it proved a much 
more difficult one than I had anticipated. Whilst herded 
together, these animals looked tame and docile enough ; but 
the instant they felt the lasso round their legs or horns, their 
character changed completely. 

The spirit of Damara cattle is fiery and wild in the extreme, 
and I have known many an ox which ten strong men were 
unable to manage. The only remedy in such a case, is to 



THE FISCAAL PREPARING TO TRAVEL. 51 

lasso the beast by his legs and horns, and, after having thrown 
hiin down, to affix to his neck a heavy iron chain, of sufficient 
length to trail along the ground. The effect on the animal of 
this encumbrance is in some instances very remarkable; for, 
instead of a wild, stubborn, and unbending brute, in a short 
time he is all docility. Indeed, it not unfrequently happens 
that he becomes too lazy to be of any use. 

Whilst at Scheppmansdorf, and whenever I could snatch a 
a moment from my busy life, I never failed to shoulder my gun 
with a view of obtaining specimens of natural history, or a 
"reinforcement for the larder;" and an hour's walk not un- 
frequently procured me a tolerable share of both. Ducks and 
geese, though somewhat shy, were by no means uncommon. 
Quadrupeds, of every description, however, were scarce. Yet 
I managed, occasionally, to bag a steinbok or a hare. 

Almost every morn we were visited by a splendid flock of 
pelicans, who kept soaring above the place for hours together ; 
now in wide, graceful circles, the next instant in a compact 
body, sometimes rising into the sky, till they became nearly 
invisible ; then suddenly sinking till they almost touched the 
earth ; when abruptly, as if recollecting that the land was not 
their proper home, they would resume their airy station. They 
generally ended by settling near a large reedy fountain; but 
they were very difficult of approach. 

The lanius subcoronatus, a species of shrike, first described by 
Dr. Andrew Smith, I found to be common at Scheppmansdorf; 
as also the butcher-bird, which, as known, always impales its 
prey on some thorn or sharp-pointed stick before devouring it. 
The Cape people call this bird the " fiscaal," or magistrate, in 
consequence of a superstitious belief that it represents among 
the smaller animals what the judge does amongst men. Many 
even go further, and say that the " fiscaal" only administers 
justice on a Friday; probably, from the Dutch court of justice 
being held, in former times, on that particular day. 

Part of the oxen being at length pretty well trained to the 
yoke, we made preparations for our departure. 

When we left the Cape, the belief was entertained that we 
should be able to carry thirty or forty hundred-weight on each 
wagon ; but, on taking into account our young and wild cattle, 
and the sandy and heavy soil through which we should have to 
pass, we had ere this made up our minds to reduce the quantity 
to rather less than one third of this weight, or to about fifteen 
hundred pounds. Even this, as will shortly be seen, proved 
too great. Accordingly, every article was carefully weighed 



52 SERVANTS. 

with the steel-yard previously to being stowed away in the 
wagons. 

Before proceeding further in my narrative, it may be proper 
to introduce to the reader our traveling establishment, as the 
character of the several individuals composing it had, by this 
time, become pretty well developed. And though, amongst 
our retainers, we had more than one " black sheep," and others 
whom it was exceedingly difficult to keep in order, yet, taking 
them together, they were, probably, a fair average of the ser- 
vants likely to be picked up by the African traveler. On an 
expedition, similar to the one in which we were engaged, I 
should remark, people cannot be too particular in the selection 
of their attendants ; for, to say nothing of the success of the 
undertaking, one's personal comfort mainly depends on their 
good behavior. 

First, in order, was a youth named Gabriel, a native of the 
Cape. He had been engaged by Gal ton chiefly for his smiling 
face and winning looks ; but he proved himself to be the most 
troublesome of the whole lot. In our journey up the country, 
he had already exhibited a vindictive temper and quarrelsome 
disposition, which, at length, broke forth with increased vio- 
lence. On two separate occasions, he attempted, if I was right- 
ly informed, the lives of his fellow-servants. Upon this atrocity, 
I spoke to him with earnest reprobation, and trusted that I had 
produced some effect ; when, to my astonishment, and mortifi- 
cation, the very next day he was guilty of the same outrage. 
After a dispute with one of his companions, he rushed upon 
him with a hatchet, and would, undoubtedly, have cleft his skull 
had it not been for a Hottentot, who warded off the blow. So 
little did the young villain think of the crime he had intended 
to perpetrate, that, upon receiving punishment, he had the im- 
pudence to remonstrate, and to ask why he was flogged. 

Next, in order, came Abraham Wenzel (a native also, I be- 
lieve, of Cape-Town), a wheelwright by trade, and by habit a 
thief. Even before leaving Scheppmansdorf, I received infor- 
mation that he had purloined divers articles from the stores, for 
which crime he received his due punishment. 

Another of our servants was named John Waggoner. This 
man teased us continually by his sulkiness and reluctance to 
work, assigning as a reason, that he had been seized with home- 
sickness, and that he wished to return immediately to the Cape. 
Some little time afterwards, he was gratified in his wish ; and, 
as will subsequently he seen, he proved himself the worst scamp 
of the set. But John performed his fraudulent tricks with so 



OUR COOK. 53 

much cleverness, ingenuity, and self-confidence, that, out of 
mere admiration at his dexterity, I could not refrain from excus- 
ing him. 

John St. Helena, a relative of the last-mentioned, was born 
in the Cape-colony, and officiated as our head wagoner. This 
man exhibited the most extraordinary disposition ; for, though 
sometimes he would be good-natured, willing, and hard-working, 
at others he was sulky, ill-tempered, and indolent. At first, I 
felt much annoyed at his irritable and changeable temper, but 
I soon found that, by interfering, I only made matters worse ; 
and, as he was an " excellent whip," it was necessary to put 
up with, and overlook, a great deal, as we should have found it 
almost impossible to replace him in so wild and inhospitable a 
region. About three years afterwards I employed him again ; 
and, strange to say, he was then the best of servants. 

Another of the attendants, John Williams, also a colony man, 
was a short, stout, merry, mischievous-looking lad, who agreed 
to serve in any capacity to which he might be competent. He 
now cooked for the men, assisted in " inspanning" and leading 
the oxen, washed clothes — in short, made himself generally 
useful. Still he was careless, thoughtless, and dirty in his 
habits ; and had not the least idea of husbanding the provisions. 
The result was, that before we had been many months in the 
country, our stock of vegetables, coffee, tea, and other necessa- 
ries was all but gone. 

Our own cook, John Mortar, a native of Madeira, was the 
very reverse of this. He was careful, frugal, industrious, strict- 
ly honest, and deeply attached to his master's interest. His 
only fault was irritability ; but this, in a cook, is always excusa- 
ble. I had a great regard for poor John, and I believe the at- 
tachment was mutual. 

Mortar had been cook to the club in Cape-Town, where he 
won golden opinions ; but, though he had certainly attained 
some proficiency in the culinary art, he required a whole gro- 
cer's shop to prepare a dinner ; and it was some time before he 
could reconcile himself to make a beef-steak a la fagon sau- 
vage. 

John had a famous way of telling stories ; and, like his own 
dishes, they were very savory and well-spiced : a tale never 
degenerated in his hands ; and when, in his happier moments, 
he condescended to open his mind, he never failed to keep his 
audience in a roar of laughter. He had, moreover, great ambition, 
and could never bear that any one should interfere with his 
cooking establishment. The arrival of a batch of natives at his 



54 THE HANDSOME BLACK. 

fire was the signal for a general burst of eloquent abuse ; and, 
if this did not suffice, he had a provoking way of scattering the 
hot coals and ashes over the naked legs of the poor unsuspect- 
ing savages, which, of course, never failed to have the desired 
effect. I often trembled for John; for his mind was clearly too 
republican to make any difference between chief and subject ; 
and I was surprised that he never got into a scrape. I suppose, 
however, the comical manner in which his dangerous experi- 
ments were always carried on, served rather to amuse than irri- 
tate or provoke. 

John lived to return to the Cape, where he became another 
Gulliver, embellishing his adventures among the savages with 
marvels which would have done honor to the invention even of 
Dean Swift. 

I now come to the last, but certainly not the least interest- 
ing, of the servants. This man's name was Timbo ; he was a 
native of Mazapa, a country far in the interior, lying to the 
west of the Portuguese settlements, on the east coast of Africa. 

When yet a child, Timbo's country was invaded by a fero- 
cious and powerful tribe of Caffres, who carried off the cat- 
tle, and slew many of the inhabitants. Amongst the latter, 
were his parents ; he, himself escaped to a neighboring tribe. 
As this, however, soon after shared a similar fate to his own, he 
was, for a long time, a " stranger on the face of the earth." At 
last, he was sold as a slave to the Portuguese ; but, after a while 
effected his escape. His liberty, however, was of short duration, 
for he was soon recaptured, and put on board a slaver. Fortu- 
nately, the vessel fell into the hands of an English cruiser, and 
Timbo, together with a great number of slaves, was brought to 
the Cape, and liberated. 

Though of a shining, dark complexion, Timbo was a remark- 
ably fine-looking man, and well formed. He bore the repu- 
tation of being a complete lady-killer, not only with those 
of his own color, but also amongst the European " fair sex." 
He had, therefore, no great difficulty in securing a partner. His 
choice, however, seems to have been unfortunate ; for, on his 
return, after eighteen months' absence, he found that his faith- 
less spouse had not only deserted him for another, but had 
also carried off with her nearly the whole of his hard-earned 
wages. On asking him, one day, whether he had any intention 
of again marrying, he replied, in his strange patois: — "No, 
maser, me no more marry ; women too great rascals in the 
Kaap !" 

But it was not only of a handsome face and good figure that 



THE HANDSOME BLACK. 55 

Timbo could boast, for he possessed, in addition, many excellent 
qualities — such as even temper, generosity, honesty, prudence, 
industry — and like our cook, he was sincere in his attachment 
to the interest of his employer. With Galton and myself he 
was a great favorite. He possessed, moreover, the most cheer- 
ful disposition, and an inexhaustible store of fun. I was, indeed, 
never tired of listening to his tales ; for he told them with 
such force and simplicity, that it was impossible not to be 
pleased and amused. 

When reproached for anything of which he knew himself to be 
innocent, he would lay his hand on his breast and say : — " No, 
maser, me know dat, me tell you." Or — " No, maser, me 
heart know that, me heart reproach me, and me tell you." 

Timbo had a wonderful aptitude for languages ; but, though 
acquainted with many, he spoke none well. Still, his speech 
was remarkably fluent, and nothing brought it forth with such 
abundant fervor as when mention was made of his own 
country. This was like touching an electric rod, and he spoke 
in ecstasies. No European could take more pride in his native 
soil than this man did in his ; and if the rest of his countrymen 
resembled him, they must, indeed, have been a fine race of men, 
and, undoubtedly, capable of a very high degree of cultivation. 



CHAPTER VII. 

DEPARTURE FROM SCHEPPMANSDORF CATTLE REFRACTORY AT STARTING 

TINCAS ALWAYS TRAVEL BY NIGHT RHINOCEROS HUNT THE AUTHOR 

IN DANGER OF A SECOND SUN-STROKE — REACH ONANIS A TRIBE OF 

HILL-DAMARAS SETTLED THERE SINGULAR MANNER IN WHICH THESE 

PEOPLE SMOKE EFFECTS OF THE WEED — THE EUPHORBIA CANDELABRUM 

REMARKABLE PROPERTIES OF THIS VEGETABLE POISON GUINEA- 
FOWL : THE BEST MANNER OF SHOOTING THEM MEET A TROOP OF 

GIRAFFES TJOBIS FOUNTAIN AGAIN ATTACKED BY LIONS PROVIDEN- 
TIAL ESCAPE ARRIVAL AT RICHTERFELDT. 

After only three weeks' stay at Scheppmansdorf, and 
though our oxen were but partially broken-in, Hans one day 
informed me that we might set out in safety. Accordingly, 
the final arrangements were hastily completed ; and, on the 
13th of November, I once more bade farewell to the place, 
and its kind, obliging, and hospitable inhabitants. 

At first starting, and whilst the sand was very deep and 
yielding, the oxen caused us much trouble ; but when we were 
on the hard and firm Naarip, all went well, and we arrived at 
the Usab gorge, where we encamped, without further incon- 
venience, than passing a cold and sleepless night. 

The next evening we resumed our journey; but, instead of 
following the course of the Swakop — which, with our young 
oxen and heavy wagons, would have been next to impossible — 
it was deemed advisable that we should still continue on 
the Naarip — where, though water was scarce, the road was 
hard and good. Tineas Mountain, which, on our former 
journey, was to the right, was now, of course, to our left. After 
about fourteen hours' fatiguing travel, we reached the small 



TINCAS RHINOCEROS HUNT. 57 

river, Tineas, where we unyoked, and rested ourselves 
and the weary oxen until nightfall, when we were again en 
route. 

As we had now adopted the plan of traveling during the 
night, so as not to distress the animals too much, we found it 
necessary to keep a sharp look-out, both on account of the 
wild beasts, and for fear of losing our way. The latter was 
particularly to be guarded against; for, in this land of drought, 
any considerable deviation from the regular track is not un fre- 
quently followed by serious consequences. Hans and myself 
were accustomed to keep watch by turns, for we never dared 
trust to the men ; but this night, owing to our previous fatigue, 
we both unfortunately fell asleep. 

When I awoke, I found that we were far out of our proper 
course, and all the men were snoring in the wagons. However, 
as it was starlight, and the landmarks very conspicuous, we 
had not much difficulty in recovering the proper track. 

Towards break of day, we unyoked the tired oxen in the bed 
of a small dry water-course, where we found abundance of 
excellent grass. The unattached cattle did not join us till late 
in the afternoon, as the men in charge of them had fallen asleep. 
Their negligence, however, was excused on account of the good 
news they brought. It appeared that soon after it was light 
they discovered a huge rhinoceros, accompanied by a nearly 
full-grown calf, following in their wake, and that they had only 
lost sight of the beasts, when within a short distance of our 
bivouac. 

So favorable an ojDportunity was too tempting to let slip. 
Having hurriedly partaken of some breakfast, and provided 
ourselves with a small supply of water, I, Hans, and an attend- 
ant, started in pursuit of the animals ; and we had not left the 
camp for much more than an hour when we fell in with their 
"spoor." The beasts themselves, however, could nowhere be 
seen ; and as several tracks crossed each other more than once 
(the animals having probably been feeding thereabouts), Hans 
and I took different directions in search of the trail we were to 
follow. We had hardly parted, when I heard a tremendous 
crash amongst the bushes ; and about a hundred yards in ad- 
vance, I saw, to my great vexation, the two rhinoceroses going 
away at full speed. Notwithstanding the distance, and the 
unfavorable position of the beasts, I fired at the mother; but, 
though the ball apparently took effect, she in no wise slackened 
her pace. 

Hans did not discharge his gun, because, as he said, the bushes 



58 RHINOCEROS HUNT. 

prevented him from having more than a very indistinct view of 
the beasts. 

When I had reloaded, we gave chase ; and, as that part of 
the plain we had now reached was totally devoid of every kind 
of vegetation that could obstruct the sight, we easily kept the 
animals in view. By degrees they slackened their speed ; and, 
in about twenty minutes, abruptly came to a stand-still, curi- 
ously regarding me as, having (though unobserved by myself) 
separated from Hans, I rapidly made up to them. When within 
fifteen to twenty paces, I halted, took aim at the mother, and 
pulled the trigger; but, to my great annoyance, my gun missed 
fire. Whilst in the very act of discharging my second barrel, 
she wheeled about, and the ball, instead of entering her heart, 
lodged in her hind quarters, and only tended to quicken her 
pace. 

In the heat of pursuit I had taken no notice of Hans and our 
attendant; but now that my attention was no longer exclusively 
drawn to the rhinoceros, I looked round to ascertain why they 
had not fired as well as myself, when, to my utter astonishment, 
I saw both of them about half-a-mile in the back-ground, stand- 
ing motionless and watching my proceedings. On their rejoin- 
ing me, and in the first burst of indignation, I charged them 
with cowardice ; but Hans immediately drew himself up to his 
full height, and indignantly, but respectfully, replied as fol- 
lows : — 

" Sir ! when you have had my experience, you will never call 
that man a coward who does not attack a wounded black rhino- 
ceros on an open and naked plain. I would rather," he con- 
tinued, '-face fifty lions than one of these animals in such an 
exposed situation ; for not one in a hundred would take it as 
quietly as this has done. A wounded black rhinoceros seldom 
waits to be attacked, but charges instantly ; and there would 
not have been the least chance of saving one's life in an open 
place like this. Had there been but the smallest bush or stone, 
I shouldn't have hesitated a moment, for the sight of the rhino- 
ceros is bad, and if there is the least cover it is easy to avoid 
him. Not many years ago, a great Namaqua chief, who, con- 
trary to the advice of his friends, had fired at a rhinoceros under 
precisely similar circumstances to yourself, lost his life by his 
rashness." 

I could not but be sensibly aware of the injustice of my accu- 
sation, and my own fool-hardiness ; yet I then felt but half con- 
vinced of the truth of what Hans had told me, and should cer- 
ainly have acted in the like imprudent manner (as indeed I did 



RHINOCEROS HUNT. 59 

on many subsequent occasions) had another opportunity offered. 
But, after all, Hans was perfectly right ; as I am sure every one 
who has come much in contact with the beast in question will 
readily admit. Indeed, after the severe lesson which, at an after 
period, I received from a black rhinoceros, I am free to confess 
that nothing in the world would ever again induce me willfully 
to expose myself in the way just mentioned. 

To proceed. After receiving my fire, both mother and calf 
galloped off as fast as their legs would carry them ; but gradu- 
ally they slackened their pace to a canter, then to a trot, and 
finally to a walk. By this time, however, they were so far 
away that, but for the certain knowledge of their identity, we 
might readily have taken them for stocks or stones. The indis- 
tinctness of objects, moreover, even at a moderate distance, was 
increased by the effects of a most perplexing mirage. 

Whilst discussing the propriety of following up the rhinoce- 
roses, we saw them make for an isolated tree — no doubt, with 
the intention of sheltering themselves from the scorching rays 
of the sun. This decided us on continuing the chase ; and, 
although already suffering greatly from thirst (our small supply 
of water having been long exhausted), the hope of ultimate suc- 
cess gave us strength to proceed. 

Approaching under cover of some stunted bushes, and when 
almost certain of closing with the beasts, and putting an end to 
one or both, I was startled by the report of guns close behind 
me; and, on turning round, I found that Hans and our man had 
fired. I never felt more vexed in my life ; for we were still a 
good hundred yards from the animals, and it had been previously 
agreed that — unless the beasts knew of our presence — we were 
not to fire until within a very short distance of them. As, how- 
ever, the evil could not be remedied, I lost no time in firing ; 
but the brutes being fully one hundred and fifty paces from me, 
I had small hope of inflicting serious injury. That I hit the 
mother, however, was very certain ; for, at the instant of dis- 
charging my gun, she bounded like a cat into the air; and Hans, 
who looked upon this as a sure sign of her being mortally 
wounded, exclaimed, "Aha, old girl, you are safe!" Annoyed 
as I was, I could not help smiling, and ironically replied — " To 
be sure, she is safe enough." And so it proved ; for we never 
saw her or her calf again. 

I felt disappointed at our failure, and the chance of a feast ; 
and was, moreover, sorry for the poor rhinoceros ; for, though 
she was lost to us, I felt certain it was only to die a lingering 
death at a distance. From experience, indeed, I should say that 



60 IN DANGER OF A SECOND SUN-STROKE. 

a similar fate awaits a large portion of birds and animals, that 
escape us after being badly wounded. 

Under ordinary circumstances, I would certainly have con- 
tinued the pursuit; but this was now impossible. We could 
not reach our encampment under many hours, and we suffered 
painfully from thirst ; while, owing to severe and continued ex- 
ertions under a burning sun, I was attacked by torturing head- 
ache. Long before we could reach the wagons, "I experienced 
precisely the same feelings as when I received a sun-stroke. 
Knowing that a renewal of the same infliction would in all 
probability prove fatal, I still toiled on ; yet, at last, the faint- 
ness and exhaustion became so overpowering, that, regardless 
of danger, I threw myself on a small flat rock — so heated by 
the sun, that I was unable to hold my hand on it for a moment ; 
and even the limbs protected by my dress were almost blistered. 
I then urged Hans to proceed as quickly as possible, in order 
that, if he found I did not immediately follow, he might send 
me some water. 

Hans had not long been gone, however, when the rock became 
so intolerably hot that, stupefied as I was, I found it necessary 
to rise from it; when, with a faltering step, and in a state of 
almost total unconsciousness, I made for the wagons, which I 
reached in safety, just as Hans was about to dispatch a man to me 
with an ample supply of water. My apprehensions, however, 
had been vain. A few hours' rest and quiet gradually restored me. 

The oppressive heat under which I had suffered so severely , 
had also made the cattle very thirsty, and they refused to eat the 
dry and sun-burnt grass. As soon, therefore, as the air became 
a little cooler, we pushed on to Onanis, where we arrived some- 
what late in the evening. Notwithstanding the darkness, and the 
risk of being attacked by lions which sometimes swarm here, we 
were obliged to supply our cattle with water ; and, as we had to 
dig for it in the bed of a small periodical stream hard by, it was 
close on midnight before we could think of refreshment or sleep. 

Onanis is the permanent residence of a kraal of very poor 
Hill-Damaras, 1 who subsist chiefly upon the few wild roots 
which their sterile neighborhood produces. Most of them, 
however, manage to raise a little tobacco, for which they have 



1 The proper name of these people is Haukoin, which literally means " real men." 
By the Namaquas they are styled Ghon-Damop or Daman — a term not sufficiently 
decorous for translation. The name Hill-Damaras is that by which they are best 
known, and being 1 really very appropriate to their habits and mode of living, I 
shall retain it throughout the course of this narrative. 



HOW THE HILL-DAMARAS SMOKE. 61 

a perfect mania, and which, moreover, they value nearly as 
much as the necessaries of life. 

They also cultivate " dacka," or hemp, not, as with us, for 
its fibre, but for the sake of the young leaves and seeds, which 
they use as a substitute for tobacco, and which is of the most 
intoxicating and injurious character. It not unfrequently hap- 
pens, indeed, that those who indulge too freely in the use of 
this plant, are affected by disease of the brain. 

The manner in which the Hill-Damaras smoke, is widely 
different either from Hindu, Mussulman, or Christian. Instead 
of simply inhaling the smoke, and then immediately letting it 
escape, either by the mouth or nostril, they swallow it deliberately. 
The process is too singular to be passed over without notice. 




HILL-DAMARA PIPE. 



A small quantity of water is put into a large horn — usually 
of a koodoo — three or four feet long. A short clay pipe, 
filled either with tobacco or "■ dacka," is then introduced, and 
fixed vertically into the side near the extremity of the narrow 
end, communicating with the interior by means of a small aper- 
ture. This being done, the party present place themselves in 
a circle, observing deep silence ; and, with open mouths, and 
eyes glistening with delight, they anxiously abide their turn. 
The chief man usually has the honor of enjoying the first pull 
at the pipe. From the moment that the orifice of the horn is 
applied to his lips, he seems to lose all consciousness of every- 
thing around him, and becomes entirely absorbed in the enjoy- 
ment. As little or no smoke escapes from his mouth, the effect 
is soon sufficiently apparent. His features become contorted, 
his eyes glassy and vacant, his mouth covered with froth, his 
whole body convulsed, and, in a few seconds, he is prostrate on 
the ground. A little water is then thrown over his body, pro- 
ceeding, not unfrequently, from the mouth of a friend ; his hair 
is violently pulled, or his head unceremoniously thumped with 
the hand. These somewhat disagreeable applications usually 
have the effect of restoring him to himself in a few minutes. 
Cases, however, have been known where people have died on the 
spot, from overcharging their stomachs with the poisonous fumes. 



62 THE EUPHORBIA CANDELABRUM. 

The Ovaherero use tobacco in a similar manner as just de- 
scribed, with this difference only — that they inhale the smoke 
simply through short clay pipes without using water to cool it, 
which, of course, makes it all the more dangerous. 

The first time we were present at a smoking bout we were 
disgusted and frightened ; but from its being of every-day oc- 
currence, we at length became somewhat reconciled to it — as 
also to many other unpleasant sights and customs. 

Instead of the naked and barren Naarip, the country had now 
begun to assume a more pleasing appearance; for, though every- 
thing looked dry and parched at this season, there was no want 
of vegetation. Besides a variety of shrubs and stunted bushes, 
the periodical water-courses were marked by the handsome 
black-stemmed mimosa, and other species of the acacia family. 
The hillsides, also, were in many places covered with the 
graceful, but poisonous euphorbia candelabrum. 

The Ovaherero tip their arrows with this vegetable poison ; 
and the Hill-Damaras introduce it in a liquid state into pools 
where wild beasts are known to drink ; and the flesh of any 
animal thus destroyed is perfectly wholesome. But its most 
remarkable property is, that whilst it invariably kills the white 
rhinoceros, it is freely and harmlessly partaken of by the black 
species, whether the plant itself be eaten, or a solution of it 
drunk. The juice of the euphorbia candelabrum has a milk-white 
appearance, and is very gummy, with an acrid taste. 

The wild bee is occasionally known to extract its food from 
the flowers and the juice of this cactus. In such a case the honey 
becomes more or less poisonous. Mr. Moffat mentions an in- 
stance of his party suffering much pain and inconvenience from 
having partaken of such honey. They felt as if their throats 
had been on fire. 

In seasons when rain falls abundantly, Onanis becomes one 
of the finest grazing localities throughout Namaqua-land, and is 
capable of sustaining many hundred head of cattle for several 
months together. The hills then afford a variety of shrubs and 
bushes, of which goats and sheep are fond. The surrounding 
plains are covered with fine grass, and a species of yellow 
flower, much relished by the cattle. 

This district used to be one of Hans' favorite camping places ; 
for, besides the abundant and excellent pasture grounds, it was 
largely resorted to by game of all kinds, and is still frequented 
by the lion, the gemsbok, the giraffe, the zebra, the gnoo, the 
rhinoceros, and several other animals. 

We were to have resumed our journey on the following 



GUINEA FOW L T ROOP OF GIRAFFES. 63 

night ; but, in the interval, Hans' right hand and arm had sud- 
denly, and from some unknown cause, swelled in a most alarm- 
ing manner. In consequence of this mishap, we found it neces- 
sary to devote another day to rest. 

On the evening of our arrival at Onanis, we had started an 
immense number of guinea-fowls near the water; and, thinking 
it a favorable opportunity to replenish our exhausted larder, I 
slung a double-barreled gun across my shoulder, and immedi- 
ately started off; but, though I soon found the birds, they were 
so wild that for a long time I could not get within range of 
them. At last, after having chased them about the rocks till I 
was nearly tired, they scattered themselves amongst the stones, 
and lay so close, that, unless I almost trod upon them, they 
would not rise. With a steady pointer, I believe the whole 
flock might easily have been killed, and, as it was, I made a 
very large bag. 

The flesh of the wild guinea-fowl — that of the young at 
least — is tender and well-flavored ; and their eggs are excellent. 
The speed of this bird is almost incredible. On even ground a 
man is no match for it. Where the country is well wooded, the 
best plan to shoot them is with a " cocker," or other .dog, that 
challenges freely to them when " treed ;" for whilst the birds 
are intently watching his movements, they may easily be ap- 
proached within gun-shot. With a small pea-rifle this sort of 
sport is particularly amusing. 

Early on the afternoon of the second day, Hans having now 
partially recovered, we started from Onanis ; and, with the ex- 
ception of a short stoppage, for the purpose of preparing some 
coffee, and to allow the cattle to take a few mouthfuls of grass, 
we traveled throughout the whole night. 

Soon after daylight, we discovered a numerous troop of giraf- 
fes. The country, however, was open, and unfavorable for 
stalking ; and, before we could get within range, they were off. 
The speed of these animals is by no means inconsiderable, more 
especially on gently-rising ground. In such a locality, and 
from their being very long-winded, a tolerably swift horse is 
seldom able to overtake them under less than two or three 
miles. It is one of the most curious sights imaginable to see a 
troop of these animals at full speed, balancing themselves to 
and. fro in a manner not easily described, and whisking, at regu- 
lar intervals, from side to side, their tails, tufted at the end, 
while their long and tapering necks, swaying backwards and 
forwards, follow the motion of their bodies. 

On account of the many short turns, the hilly nature of the 



64 ATTACKED BY LIONS. 

ground in places, and the unusual length of the wagons, we 
anticipated considerable difficulty in the course of this stage. 
But we got safely through it without accident of any kind, and 
arrived at Tjobis Fountain about nine o'clock. 

We left this place the evening of the same day ; and, with 
the exception of resting for an hour or two by the way, we 
pushed on throughout the night. 

At daybreak, and just as we reached the Swakop, we were 
suddenly startled by the most tremendous roaring of lions, 
which, evidently, were close at hand. In a few moments after- 
wards, two of those magnificent beasts—male and female — 
emerged from the bushes at about one hundred and fifty paces 
a-head of us. On perceiving the cavalcade, they gave another 
terrific roar, of so angry a nature as to cause the greatest con- 
sternation amongst the cattle. Those attached to the foremost 
wagon, wheeled round instantaneously; and, before it was pos- 
sible to prevent them, ran right into the midst of the aftermost 
team, and I expected every moment to see the vehicles capsized 
or smashed to atoms. 

What with the bellowing of the oxen, the shouting and 
screaming of the men, the smashing and breaking of yokes, etc., 
and the continued roar of the lions, the scene was such as to 
baffle all description. 

The lion, himself, after having approached very near to us, 
again retreated into the bushes ; but the lioness seated herself 
quietly within less than a hundred yards of the wagons, growl- 
ing most furiously. Throwing the reins over the saddle of 
" Spring," who, by-the-by, had nearly unseated me on the first 
appearance of the lions, I sprang to the ground, and seizing a 
double-barreled gun, which I always kept loaded for emergen- 
cies, I made towards the beast, intending to punish her for her 
audacity, when Hans imploringly begged me to desist. " For," 
said he, " if you do not shoot her dead on the spot, she will be 
down upon us in an instant." 

Allowing myself to be guided by his advice, I refrained from 
firing, but, nevertheless, took up my position within about fifty 
paces of, and opposite to, the lioness, as well to draw off her 
attention from the men, and thus enable them to put the cattle 
and vehicles to rights, as to be in readiness to give her a warm 
reception, should she think proper to charge. 

A short time before we were thus unceremoniously attacked, 
one of the draught oxen, which had always been very wild, 
managed to escape from the yoke, and a fleet-footed Damara 
was left behind to bring him on. In the midst of our confu- 



ARK VAL AT EiCJITERFELDT. 65 

sion, we heard cries of distress and loud shouting behind us ; 
and, on looking round, we saw to our horror, the lion in full chase 
as well of the refractory ox as the man, who was trying to keep 
off his fierce pursuer by violently waving the fire-brand which 
he carried in his hand. 1 Telling Hans to mind the lioness as 
well as he could in my absence, I immediately ran to the rescue 
of the Damara and his charge ; but, before I had proceeded far, 
the ox, catching sight of the remainder of the herd, made a suc- 
cessful dash right across the lion's path, and, fortunately, re- 
joined us in safety. The object of the lion was clearly more 
the beast than the man ; for, upon finding himself thus sud- 
denly baffled, he stopped short, and, with a savage look at us, 
and an angry growl, bounded out of sight as quick as thought ; 
and, by the time I returned to the wagons, the lioness had 
thought fit to follow her lord's example. Thus, almost with- 
out any effort on our side, we were providentially saved from 
this most extraordinary and dangerous attack. 

At the first appearance of the lions, the men took refuge in 
the wagons, and, long after the danger was over, they trembled 
violently from fear and apprehension. 

As a general rule, a lion, unless previously molested, will 
seldom attack an ox in the yoke, or when attended by man, but 
long abstinence makes him desperate. 

After considerable trouble and difficulty, we succeeded in 
rearranging the oxen, which had become excessively scared. 
Two or three hours' further traveling brought us, without other 
mishap, safe to Richterfeldt, where our hair-breadth escape was 
listened to with the deepest interest. 

We had left Scheppmansdorf — as said — in the afternoon of 
the 13th of November, and reached our present quarters early 
on the morning of the 22nd of the same month. The whole 
of the distance, by road, could not have been much less than 
one hundred and thirty miles. Having performed this in five 
stages, and in about the same number of days, our rate of trav- 
eling, at an average, had been twenty-five miles daily. Taking 
into consideration the nature of the ground, the young and 
half-broken oxen, etc., it may fairly be considered first-rate 
speed ; and our efforts were loudly praised by every one. 

1 In the nights, the Damaras invariably carry a fire-brand, which they hold 
close to their bodies, in order to shelter themselves, in some degree, from the 
wind and cold. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A HEARTY WELCOME WE REMOVE THE ENCAMPMENT AN APPARITION 

AUDACITY OF WILD BEASTS DEPRIVING LIONS OP THEIR PREY EXCES- 
SIVE HEAT — SINGULAR EFFECTS OF GREAT HEAT— -DEPART FOR BAR- 
MEN MEET A TROOP OF ZEBRAS THEIR FLESH NOT EQUAL TO VENI- 
SON THE MISSIONARY'S WAIL A SAD CATASTROPHE THE " KAMEEL- 

DOORN" BUXTON FOUNTAIN THE SCORPION ARRIVAL AT BARMEN. 

Immediately on our arrival at Richterfeldt, we were sur- 
rounded by scores of natives, who, with yells, vociferations, 
clapping of hands, grotesque dances, and so forth, testified 
their joy at our return. Mr. Rath, moreover, highly compli- 
mented us on the dispatch with which we had broken-in the 
oxen, and performed the journey. 

Mr. Galton, I ascertained, had lately departed for Barmen, 
Mr. Hahn's station. I determined to follow him as soon as I 
had taken sufficient rest after my fatiguing journey. In the 
mean time, the wagons were to remain at Richterfeldt till our 
return to that place. 

At first, we pitched our camp in the same spot we had 
occupied previously to our departure for Scheppmansdorf ; but 
the high palisades that protected it had been destroyed in our 
absence by the natives, who had carried away the wood for 
fuel. This, however, was of little consequence, as the old 
inclosure would now have been too small to contain both the 
cattle and our cumbersome conveyances. Moreover, as the 
place was situated in the bed of a periodical stream — a tribu- 
tary of the Swakop — and, as the rainy season was fast 
approaching, it would have been imprudent to remain here 
any length of time. Accordingly, we brought our wagons, 



AN APPARITION. 67 

etc., to Hans' own kraal, which was near at hand on the bank 
of the river, as there we should be perfectly secure in case of 
any sudden inundation. 

The day before our removal, the men had asked and obtain- 
ed permission to spend the evening with Hans at his encamp- 
ment. Even the dogs had absented themselves, and I was thus 
left altogether alone. The night, though somewhat warm, was 
delightfully bright and still. To enjoy the beautiful weather, 
I had taken my bedding out of the wagon, and placed it on 
the ground alongside the wheels, facing a small clump of low 
tamarisk trees, distant not above twenty paces. Being a bad 
sleeper, I lay aw T ake until a very late hour. All nature was 
hushed and silent, and the night so calm that I might have 
heard the falling of a leaf. Suddenly, my attention was drawn 
to the tamarisk grove, whence proceeded a low, rustling noise, 
like that of some animal cautiously making its way through it. 
Thinking it probable that a hyaena or a jackal was about to 
pay me a visit, I sat up in my bed, and seizing my gun, which 
I invariably kept within reach, I prepared to give the intruder 
a warm reception. Imagine my surprise, however, when, in- 
stead of one or other of these skulking animals, a stately lion 
stood suddenly before me ! In an instant my gun was pointed 
at his breast, but, hoping he would presently turn his broadside 
towards me, which would have given me a much better chance 
of destroying him, I refrained from firing. In this expectation, 
however, I was disappointed ; for, on perceiving the wagons, 
he retreated a step or two, and, uttering a low growl, vanished 
the next moment amongst the bushes. 

There is something so grand and imposing in the appearance 
of the king of beasts in his native wilds — more especially when 
he assumes an attitude of surprise or defiance — that it is impos- 
sible not to feel more or less awed in his presence. 

On mentioning to Mr. Rath, the following morning, my ad- 
venture of the preceding night, he expressed no kind of sur- 
prise ; for the tamarisk grove in question was often known, he 
said, to harbor lions and other beasts of prey. He added, more- 
over, that lions not unfrequently penetrated thence into his 
garden, and even approached within a few paces of the dwell- 
ing-house itself. 

Returning somewhat late one very dark night from Mr. 
Rath's house to our encampment, I was suddenly startled by 
sounds of the most painful description, not unlike the stifled 
groanings of a person who is on the point of drowning. It at 
once struck me that the lions had surprised some unfortunate 



68 AUDACITY OF LIONS. 

native whilst lying in ambush near the water for wild animals 
that came there to drink. Whilst listening in anxious suspense 
to the wailings in question — which gradually became more and 
more faint — there reached me from another quarter a confused 
sound of human voices, and of hurried footsteps. This only 
tended to confirm my first impression ; but, from the impene- 
trable darkness, I could not ascertain anything with certainty. 
Being unable, however, to endure the suspense any longer, and 
regardless of the danger to which I exposed myself, I caught 
up my fowling-piece, which happened to be loaded with ball, 
and set out in the direction whence the wailings — now fast 
dying away — proceeded. 

I had not gone very far, however, before I fell in with a 
number of the natives, who were hastening in the same direc- 
tion as myself. , 

My road, for the most part, lay through a dense tamarisk 
coppice, and it was surprising to me how I ever managed to 
thread the labyrinth. The hope of saving human life, however, 
enabled me to overcome all obstacles. I might have been 
three or four minutes in the brake, when, on coming to a small 
opening, I suddenly encountered, and all but stumbled over, a 
large black mass lying at my feet ; whilst, close to my ear, I 
heard the twang of a bow-string, and the whizzing of an arrow. 
At the same moment, and within a very few paces of where I 
stood, I was startled by the terrific roar of a lion, which seemed 
to shake the ground beneath me. This was immediately fol- 
lowed by a savage and exulting cry of triumph from a number 
of the natives. 

Having recovered from my surprise, I found that the dark 
object that had nearly upset me was one of the natives stoop- 
ing over a dead zebra, which the lion had just killed, and then 
learnt, for the first time, to my great astonishment as well as 
relief, that the wailings which had caused me so much uneasi- 
ness, and which I imagined were those of a dying man, pro- 
ceeded from this poor animal. 1 

The designs of the natives, who, from the first, I take it, 
well knew what they were about, was simply to possess them- 
selves of the zebra, in which they had fully succeeded. Whilst 
some busied themselves in lighting a fire, the rest joined in a 



1 1 have since had frequent opportunities of hearing the dying groans of the 
zebra, which in reality greatly resemble the faint gasps and ejaculations of a 
drowning man. Even the subdued neighings of this animal, when heard from a 
distance, are of a very melancholy nature. 



DEPRIVING THE LION OF HIS PREY. 69 

sort of war-dance round the carcass, accompanied by the most 
wild and fantastic gestures, totally disregarding the proximity 
of the lion, who had only retreated a few paces. As the fire 
began to blaze, indeed, we could distinctly see him pacing to 
and fro amongst the bushes on the edge of the river's bank. 

He, moreover, forcibly reminded us of his presence by cruelly 
lacerating a small dog belonging to one of the party, which 
had incautiously approached him too closely. By a slight touch 
of his murderous paw he ripped up its body from head to foot ; 
but, notwithstanding its entrails dragged on the ground, the 
poor creature managed to crawl to our fire, where it breathed 
its last in the course of a few seconds. It was a most touching 
sight to see the faithful animal wagging its tail in recognition 
of its master, who was trying to replace the intestines, and to 
stop the flow of blood. 

The savage features of the natives, which received an un- 
naturally wild character as the glare of the half-blazing fire fell 
full upon them ; the dying dog, with his wild master stooping 
despondingly over him ; the mutilated carcass of the zebra ; 
and the presence of the lion, within a few paces of us, pre- 
sented one of the most striking scenes it was ever my fortune 
to witness. 

Expecting every moment that the lion would make a dash at 
us, I stood prepared to receive him. More than once, indeed, 
I leveled my gun at him, and was on the point of pulling the 
trigger ; but being now sufficiently acquainted with the charac- 
ter of the animal to know that, if I did not shoot him on the 
spot, the attempt would probably prove the death-signal to one 
or other of us, I refrained from firing. 

Contrary to my expectation, however, he allowed us to cut 
up and to carry away the entire zebra without molesting us in 
any way. During the process, the natives occasionally hurled 
huge burning brands at the beast; 1 but these, instead of 
driving him to a distance, had only the effect of making him 
the more savage. 

Similar attempts to deprive the lion of his prey are of fre- 
quent occurrence in the interior of Africa. Indeed, it is no un- 
usual thing to find a number of natives residing near such pools 
of water as are frequented by antelopes, other wild animals, 
and their constant attendant, the lion, subsisting almost alto- 

1 I have been told that on a similar occasion to the present, a lion was so in- 
jured by the flaming missiles thrown at him, that he was found shortly afterwards 
dead of his wounds. 



70 EXCESSIVE HEAT. 

gether in this way, or on carcasses which the lion has not had 
time to devour before the return of day, when it is his habit to 
retire to his lair. 

But it is not always that the attempt to deprive the lion of 
his prey succeeds as well as in the instance just mentioned. 
Generally speaking, indeed, if he be famishing with hunger, he 
turns upon his assailants, and many a man has thus lost his life. 
One often meets with individuals, either mutilated, or bearing 
dreadful scars, the result of wounds received in such encoun- 
ters. 

The heat had by this time become almost insupportable, and 
it was only with great inconvenience that a person could move 
about after the sun was a few hours above the horizon. Even 
the cattle were dreadfully distressed. As early as eight o'clock 
in the morning they would leave off grazing, in order to seek 
shelter under some tree or bush against the scorching rays of 
the sun. 

Every afternoon regularly at two o'clock, we had a strong 
breeze from the westward. Strange to say, however, this, 
though coming from the sea, instead of cooling the atmosphere, 
only tended to increase its oppressiveness. We experienced 
precisely the same sensation as when standing before the mouth 
of a heated oven. The quicksilver rose to such a height as 
almost to make us doubt our own eyes. Even at Scheppmans- 
dorf — which is situated less than twenty miles, as the crow 
flies, from the sea, and where there is almost always a refreshing 
breeze — the thermometer, at noon, in an airy situation, and in 
the shade, rises, for many days together, to 110 degrees of 
Fahrenheit ! 

In consequence of the fiery state of the atmosphere, every 
article of horn or wood shrank and contracted most surprisingly. 
Even the gun-stocks, made of the best English walnut, lost an 
eighth of an inch of their original solidity. The ink dried in 
the pen almost the instant it left the stand. 1 



1 Captain Sturt, who, in his explorations in Australia, seems to have experi- 
enced the same heat in even a greater degree, says — 

" The mean of the thermometer for the months of December, January, and 
February, had been 101, 104, and 105 degrees respectively, in the shade. Under 
its effects, every screw in our boxes had been drawn, and the horn handles of 
our instruments, as well as our combs, were split into fine laminae. The lead 
dropped out of our pencils and our signal rockets were entirely spoiled ; our hair, 
as well as the wool on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had become brittle 
as glass. The flour lost more than eight per cent, of its original weight, and the 
other provisions in still greater proportion." In another part of his narrative, this 



TROOP OF ZEBRAS. 71 

Our wagons, moreover, which, on leaving Scheppmansdorf, 
were in excellent order, were now quite infirm. The spokes 
and the tires became loose and the felloes and naves exhibited 
large gaps and fissures. To save them, however, as much as 
possible, we set about making a shed of reeds and rushes, 
strongly bound together by cords and light-wooden sticks. 

As soon as this was finished I began my preparations for 
visiting Galton at Barmen ; and, as Mr. Schoneberg was also 
anxious to make the acquaintance of Mr. Hahn, his intended 
colleague, it was agreed that we should travel together. On 
the day appointed, we set out mounted on oxen, and accom- 
panied by a Hottentot as guide and interpreter. Besides his 
native tongue, this man spoke Dutch and Damara fluently. One 
or two natives were also engaged to drive, and to assist in 
packing the oxen. 

As usual, I rode " Spring," and Mr. Schoneberg an ox lent 
to him by Mr. Rath ; but, unfortunately, the latter animal 
turned very vicious, and before we had proceeded many hun- 
dred yards, I saw my friend pitched, head foremost, into the 
moist bed of the Swakop. On rising from his uncomfortable 
berth, the Rev. gentleman looked very blank and crest-fallen ; 
and nothing could again induce him to remount the brute. 
Being, however, anxious to prosecute the journey, I made him 
an offer of my own ox, which was gratefully accepted. 

After this little mishap, all went on well for a while. Un- 
fortunately, however, in an unguarded moment, I, too, was 
doomed to be "un-oxed," to the great delight and amusement 
of my companion. Confiding in his superior skill in managing 
a refractory ox, our guide now generously exchanged with me. 
Notwithstanding his boasting, he was as unfortunate as our- 
selves ; for, in the course of half an hour, he had twice bitten 
the dust. 

Nothing daunted, however, he mounted a third time, and 
ultimately succeeded in convincing the animal that he was 
determined to be master. 

In the course of the day we suddenly came upon a troop of 
zebras. Quickly dismounting I took a running shot at them, 
as they were disappearing in the brushwood, and had the good 
fortune to bring a fine male dead to the ground. Immediately 
"off-saddling," we helped ourselves to the best parts of the 

enterprising explorer mentions the quicksilver once to have risen to 132 degrees 
in the shade, the thermometer being placed in the fork of a tree, five feet from 
the ground ! 



72 THE MISSIONARY S WAIL. 

meat, leaving the rest to one of our Damaras, who thought 
a " tuck-out" of flesh — as Hans would have called it — prefer- 
able to a wearisome journey to Barmen. 

The flesh of the zebra, or " wild horse," as the Dutch call 
it, is eatable, but by no means good ; for, besides possessing a 
very strong odor and peculiar flavor, it has a very oily taste. 
With plenty of pepper and salt, however, a steak is not to be 
despised by the hungry traveler. 

The heat, throughout the day, had been terrific. Before the 
sun had well disappeared behind the mountains, between which 
we traveled, Mr. Schoneberg was completely knocked up, and 
we were obliged to encamp for the night. Each of us carried a 
small tin water-can ; but, instead of having it filled, as I did, with 
the pure liquid, Mrs. Rath had kindly, but unwisely, provided 
her friend with a mixture of water, sugar, and cinnamon. This, 
as may be supposed, only served to increase his thirst. 

We had hardly finished removing the packs and saddles from 
our tired steeds, before the poor missionary threw himself 
despondingly on the ground, exclaiming — " Ah ! Mr. Andersson, 
if we were to tell people in Europe what we suffer here, none 
would believe us." I could not help smiling at this burst of 
despair ; for, though from the heat, the day had been distressing 
enough, we had by no means suffered either from want of water 
or food. Poor Mr. Schoneberg ! he was totally unfit for the 
hardships he must necessarily encounter in the African deserts. 
Indeed, not many weeks afterwards, he all but perished from 
his inability to endure thirst for a short period. 

The next morning at daybreak we were again in the saddle. 
Our course was northerly, and a little by east ; and the greater 
part of the road lay some distance from the Swakop, which, at 
one point, forced its way through a narrow, picturesque and 
bold gorge. 

In one place w r e passed at the foot of " Scheppman's moun- 
tain," so called from a melancholy event which occurred here a 
few years ago. A missionary named Scheppman had made the 
ascent to obtain a view of the surrounding country; but, in de- 
scending, the cock of his gun was caught by a bough, and the 
contents were lodged in one of his legs. After having suffered 
agonies for a few days, he expired, and the hill has ever since 
gone by his name. 

The vegetation was more rank than in the parts we had pre- 
viously traversed. In the course of the day, we crossed the 
dry beds of several large, sandy, and periodical streams, which 
were all tributaries to the Swakop. The country near these 



THE KAMEEL-DOORN BUXTON FOUNTAIN. 73 

stream was thickly studded with splendid forests of the gigantic 
and park-like acacia, known to the Dutch as the " kameel- 
doorn," or giraffe thorn (acacia giraffa). This tree derives its 
name from its constituting the favorite and principal food of 
the beautiful cameleopard. On account of its immense size and 
peculiar growth — having the foliage disposed from the top down- 
wards in umbrella-shaped masses — it is a great ornament to the 
country ; but, strange to say, it is invariably found only in arid 
districts. 

The " kameel-doorn'* is evidently of very slow growth, and 
requires, probably, many hundred years to arrive at maturity. 
The grain is, therefore, very close, and the wood is so heavy, 
that, after being dried for years, it will sink when thrown into 
the water. Our northern oak can in no wise be compared with 
it as regards hardness and solidity. The grain is, however, 
rather short, and the wood consequently brittle. Notwith 
standing this defect, it is very strong, and is extensively used 
for building purposes and implements of husbandry. It is, 
moreover, almost the only wood strong enough for the axle-trees 
of wagons. Tools of the best materials, however, are indispensa- 
ble in working it. I have seen many a well-tempered axe and 
adze blunted and spoiled when brought in contact with it. The 
outer part of the tree is of a whitish color ; but the heart is 
reddish-brown, not unlike mahogany, and capable of a high 
polish. 

It is in the branches of this acacia, mentioned by several 
South African travelers, that the social gross-beak (loxia socia) 
chiefly constructs its interesting and singular nest. 

Through the stupidity and mismanagement of our guide, who 
apparently knew but little of the road, we missed a watering- 
piace where we were to have halted, and, in consequence, suf- 
fered extremely from thirst. Mr. Schoneberg, moreover, had 
been very unwell during the day ; and, when we arrived at the 
end of the stage — which was not until seven o'clock at night — 
he was even more fatigued and exhausted than on the preceding 
evening. 

We bivouacked by the side of " Buxton Fountain" — so called 
in honor of the late Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, from whom 
and his family, if I am rightly informed, Mrs. Hahn had experi- 
enced much kindness. It is a hot spring ; and the water, which 
flows out of a granite rock, is nearly of a boiling temperature, 
and has a brackish and disagreeable taste. 

The soil, moreover, all round this fountain, is impregnated 
with saline substances. A considerable number of wild animals 



74 SCORPIONS BARMEN. 

congregate here nightly, in order to quench their thirst. Lions, 
also, are at times numerous, but, on this occasion, they did not 
molest us. 

Having partaken of some supper, I was about to resign my 
weary limbs to repose, when suddenly there issued from a small 
hole, close to my head, a swarm of scorpions. Their appear- 
ance brought me to my feet in an instant ; for, though not par- 
ticularly a nervous man, I am free to confess to a great horror 
of all crawling things. 

During the hot months, these animals lie dormant; but, on 
the approach of the rainy season, they come forth in great num- 
bers. On removing stones, decayed pieces of wood, etc., it is 
necessary to be very cautious. The instant the scorpion feels 
himself in contact with any part of the body of a man or beast, 
he lifts his tail, and, with his horny sting, inflicts a wound, 
which, though rarely fatal, is still of a very painful nature. 1 

Like the snake, the scorpion is fond of warmth ; and it is not 
uncommon, on awakening in the morning, to find one or two of 
these horrid creatures snugly ensconced in the folds of the 
blanket, or under the pillow. On one occasion I killed a scor- 
pion, measuring nearly seven and a half inches in length, that 
had thus unceremoniously introduced itself into my bed. 

The following morning, our guide declared it to be only a 
few hours' further traveling to Barmen. We, therefore, did not 
hurry our departure, but took ample time to prepare, and to 
partake of, a substantial breakfast — consisting of some strong 
coffee, and steaks of zebra-flesh, simply prepared on the hot em- 
bers of our bivouac fire. 

We arrived at Barmen just as the family were sitting down 
to dinner, and Mr. Hahn kindly invited us to join in the ample 
repast. I was happy to find Mr. Gralton in the enjoyment of 
health and excellent spirits ; and he seemed delighted at our 
safe and speedy return. 



CHAPTER IX. 

BARMEN THUNDER-STORM IN THE TROPICS A MAN KILLED BY LIGHTNING 

WARM SPRING MR. HAHN : HIS MISSIONARY LABOR; SEED SOWN IN 

EXCEEDING STONY GROUND THE LAKE OMANBONDE MR. GALTON's MIS- 
SION OF PEACE THE AUTHOR MEETS A LION BY THE WAY ; THE BEAST 

BOLTS — SINGULAR CHASE OF A GNOO "KILLING TWO BIRDS WITH ONE 

STONE" A LION HUNT THE AUTHOR ESCAPES DEATH BY A MIRACLE 

CONSEQUENCES OF SHOOTING ON A SUNDAY. 

At a first glance, Barmen has a rather dreary aspect. Hans 
thought it resembled many of the most desolate parts of Ice- 
land; but when more closely examined, it is found to be by no 
means devoid either of interest or beauty. It is situated about 
three-quarters of a mile from the Swakop, and on its right 
bank. Towards the west, and immediately behind the station, 
rise irregular masses of low, broken rocks, ending abruptly on 
one side in a bluff, about one thousand feet high. The whole 
are covered with a profusion of shrubs, and several species of 
thorn-trees of the genus acacia, which, during the greater part 
of the year, assume every shade of green. To the eastward, it 
faces the Swakop, the course of which is conspicuously marked 
by the handsome black-stemmed mimosa. Beyond this, the 
view is limited by a noble range of picturesque mountains, rising 
between six and seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. 
These receive additional interest from being more or less a con- 
tinuation of those mighty chains which take their rise a very few 
miles from Cape-Town — thus extending, in a direct line, about 
one thousand miles ! 

Within a stone's throw of the missionary-house, a turbulent 
mountain-stream winds its tortuous course. It flows, however, 



76 A THUNDER-STORM IN THE TROPICS. 

only during heavy rains, when its great fall and violence prove 
very destructive to the native gardens. 

About two years from the period of which I am now writing, 
I happened to be on a visit to Barmen, on which occasion I 
witnessed one of those extraordinary phenomena only to be seen 
to perfection in tropical climes. One afternoon, heavy and 
threatening clouds suddenly gathered in the eastern horizon ; 
the thunder rolled ominously in the distance ; and the sky was 
rent by vivid lightnings. Knowing, from long experience, its 
imports, we instantly set about placing everything under shel- 
ter that could be injured by the wet. This was hardly accom- 
plished, when large, heavy drops of rain began to descend, and, 
in a few seconds, the sluice-gates of heaven appeared to have 
opened. The storm did not last above half-an-hour; but this 
short time was sufficient to convert the whole country into one 
sheet of water. The noise, moreover, caused by the river and 
a number of minor mountain-streams, as they rolled down their 
dark, muddy torrents in waves rising often as high as ten feet, 
was perfectly deafening. Gigantic trees, recently uprooted, 
and others in a state of decay, were carried away with irresisti- 
ble fury, and tossed about on the foaming billows like so many 
straws. Every vestige of many gardens was swept away ; and 
some of the native huts, which had been imprudently erected 
too close to the river, shared a similar fate. Indeed, it must 
have been a miniature deluge. 

Wonderful, however, as are the sudden creation of these 
floods, the very short time they require to disappear is no less 
striking. An hour's sunshine is sometimes sufficient to trans- 
form flooded fields into a smiling landscape. 

These commotions of the elements are of frequent occurrence 
in the tropics, during the rainy season. Soon after Mr. Grafton's 
arrival at Barmen, there was a very heavy thunder-storm. One 
evening, as he and Mr. Hahn were conversing, they saw a Da- 
mara struck dead by lightning, within a hundred yards of where 
they stood. 

Water was abundant at Barmen, and very good. Mr. Hahn 
had dug a large well in his own garden, which was of very 
great convenience and comfort, as the water thus obtained was 
always clean and wholesome. Within a couple of hundred 
paces of the dwelling-house there were, moreover, two copious 
fountains. One of these was a warm spring, the temperature 
being 157 degrees of Fahrenheit. By means of small channels 
this spring was made to irrigate a considerable portion of garden 
land, and was, also, of great use in seasoning timber. To the 



THE MISSIONARIES AND THE NATIVES. 77 

laundress, besides, it was invaluable. During our stay at Bar- 
men, we indulged freely in the unusual and uncommon luxury 
of a bath ; but it proved somewhat relaxing. 

Mr. Hahn was a Eussian by birth, but had, for a number of 
years, devoted himself to the service of the German Rhenish 
Missionary Society, and was now using his best endeavors to 
convert the natives of this benighted land. At first he had 
settled among a tribe of Namaquas, under the powerful robber- 
chief, Jonker Afrikaner, of whom presently. Finding, however, 
that these people infinitely preferred to cut the throats of their 
fellow- creatures, than to listen to his exhortations, and know- 
ing, moreover, that several missionaries had already established 
themselves throughout various parts of Great Namaqua-land, he 
thought that he might use his influence to more advantage with 
the Damaras, amongst whom, therefore, he had pitched his 
tent. Messrs. Rath and Kolbe were his coadjutors in the good 
cause. 

Seeing that their best endeavors were of little avail without 
a proper knowledge of the Damara language, they worked hard 
in order to master it ; but the difficulty was immense. At last, 
by the merest chance, they discovered the key to it ; and, from 
that moment, they made rapid progress, so much so, that, in the 
course of a few years, Mr. Hahn was able to return to Ger- 
many, where he has compiled and published a grammar and 
dictionary. 

On the first appearance of the missionaries in Damara-land, 
the natives were very reserved, and retired with their cattle 
into the interior. Being wholly dependent on them for sup- 
plies of live-stock, the settlers suffered great hardships and pri- 
vations. Indeed, on more than one occasion, starvation stared 
them in the face ; and they lived for a long time in a precarious 
way on such wild animals as their Hottentot servants managed 
to kill. The Damaras, moreover, probably judging others by 
themselves, conceived the idea that the missionaries had come 
into the country with some sinister object, and that it would 
be advisable to frustrate it. Accordingly, they assembled in 
great numbers within a few miles of Barmen, for the purpose 
of exterminating the new settlers. Their diabolical intentions 
were, however, defeated by the counsel of one of their tribe. 
At the time of which I am now writing, Mr. Hahn and his coad- 
jutors had completely succeeded in pacifying and conciliating 
the Damaras, and a great number of the poorer classes were 
now living at the station, where, by a little industry and perse- 
verance, many managed to live in tolerable comfort. The great 



78 THE LAKE OMANBONDE. 

source of their wealth consisted in the cultivation of tobacco, 
which here grew to perfection — the leaves of this plant often 
attaining the size of three feet by two. What they did not con- 
sume themselves was bartered for cattle to their wealthier 
countrymen. 

Here, however, their civilization seemed to be at a stand-still. 
The missionaries were laudably and strenuously exerting them- 
selves in their behalf; but, as yet, they had met with little or 
no encouragement. To the mind of a Damara, the idea of men 
visiting them solely from love and charity, is utterly inconceiv- 
able. They cannot banish a suspicion that the motives of the 
stranger must be interested ; and they not unfrequently require 
a bribe in return for any services they may render to the mission- 
ary cause. As an instance of the utter failure of religious zeal in 
these parts, I may mention, that Mr. Hahn, who is liked and 
respected by the natives, never succeeded, as he himself told 
me, in converting a single individual ! In one instance, how- 
ever, he imagined that he had made a convert ; but, before the 
individal in question could be finally admitted as a member of 
the Christian church, it was necessary that he should give sat- 
isfactory answers to certain questions. One of these was, 
whether, according to the usages of Christianity, he would be 
contented with one wife. To this, the man replied, that, 
though he was very anxious to oblige Mr. Hahn and his friends 
personally, and to further the objects of the mission in every 
way possible, yet his conscience would not permit him to make 
so great a sacrifice as that required. 

The wealthy Damaras were even more indifferent to spiritual 
matters than their poorer brethren ; and, if they happened to 
visit any of the stations, it was not for the purpose of hearing the 
gospel preached, but either in the hope of protection against their 
enemies, or with a view to business by bartering tobacco, iron- 
ware, and so forth. One exception to this rule was found in 
the case of the chief Kahichene, who had settled, with part of 
his tribe, at Schmelen's Hope. 

Mr. Galton had not been idle during my absence. Besides 
collecting much interesting information with regard to the 
Damaras and the Namaquas, he had ascertained the existence 
of a fresh-water lake, called Omanbonde. This had the effect 
of raising our spirits considerably. We had landed at Walfisch 
Bay with a very vague idea as to our route, and had hitherto 
felt quite at a loss how to act. 

To enable us to reach Omanbonde, it was necessary to pass 
through Damara-land, which was totally unknown to Europe- 



A SURPRISE. 79 

ans. Even the missionaries, who had resided several years on 
the frontiers, were ignorant of the country beyond a very few 
miles of their stations. The Damaras themselves entertained 
the most extravagant notions of its extent, population, and 
fertility. The people, however, were known to be inhospita- 
ble, treacherous, suspicious, and inimical to strangers. It had 
always been considered insecure to travel amongst them ; but 
more particularly so at this time, since their southern neighbors, 
the Namaquas, attracted by their vast herds, had lately made 
several extensive raids upon them, killing the people and 
carrying off large numbers of cattle, sheep, etc. They believed, 
and with some show of reason, that every individual of a light 
complexion was leagued against them. They well knew that 
the cattle stolen from them by their enemies, the Namaquas, 
were sold to European traders, and they knew also, that, if by 
accident or design, the cattle belonging to the missionaries, or 
other white men, were stolen by the thievish people in question, 
they were always restored on application. This, together with 
the fact that an European could pass unmolested through the 
Namaqua territory, strengthened them in the conviction that 
tve were enemies in disguise. 

In order, therefore, to clam their excited feelings, to assure 
them of our friendly and peaceable intentions, and to explain 
to them the real motive of our journey, Mr. Galton had dispatch- 
ed messengers to the principal Damara chiefs. He also wrote 
to Jonker Afrikaner (having previously sent messengers to him 
while at Richterfeldt) remonstrating with him on the barbarity 
and injustice of his conduct. Jonker is a leading chieftain 
amongst the Namaqua-Hottentots. He headed in person the 
greater part of the marauding expeditions into Damara-land. 

Having spent a few days agreeably and usefully at Barmen, 
we prepared to return to our camp at Richterfeldt ; but when 
the day of departure had arrived, I felt very feverish, and Gralton 
was obliged to prosecute his journey without me. In a short 
time, however, I was able to follow. 

On riding briskly along, early one morning, I observed, as I 
thought, a solitary zebra a few hundred yards in advance. 
Instantly alighting, and leaving " Spring" to take care of 
himself, I made towards the quarry, gun in hand, under cover 
of a few small trees. Having proceeded for some distance, I 
peeped cautiously from behind a bush, when I found, to my 
astonishment, that the animal which I had taken for a zebra 
was nothing less than a noble lion. He was quietly gazing at 
me. I must confess I felt a little startled at the unexpected 



80 CHASE OF A GNOO. 

apparition ; but, recovering quickly from surprise, I advanced 
to meet him. He, however, did not think fit to wait till I was 
within proper range, but turned tail, and fled towards the Swa- 
kop. Hoping to be able to come to close quarters with him, 
I followed at the top of my speed, and was rapidly gaining 
ground on the brute, when suddenly, with two or three im- 
mense bounds, he cleared an open space, and was the next 
moment hidden from view among the thick reeds that here 
lined the banks of the river. Having no dogs with me, all my 
efforts to dislodge him from his strong-hold proved unavailing. 
Whilst still lingering about the place, I came upon the carcass 
of a gnoo, on which a troop of lions had apparently been feast- 
ing not many minutes previously. Undoubtedly my somewhat 
dastardly friend had been one of the party. 

In the afternoon of the same day that I reached Richterfeldt, 
a very exciting and animating chase took place. A gnoo had 
been slightly wounded by a Hottentot servant of Mr. Rath. 
The natives, who had watched the whole affair from the station, 
immediately gave chase to the animal. Finding itself hard 
pressed, the gnoo, in its fright, took refuge in the village, 
where it was quickly hemmed in on all sides. Every woman 
and child had turned out to witness its destruction, whilst the 
men were vociferously contending about the right to the carcass. 
Assegais and arrows, moreover, were whizzing thick round our 
ears, and I had considerable difficulty in making my way 
through this scene of confusion to the poor gnoo, which I found at 
bay in the middle of Mr. Rath's sheep kraal, not twenty feet 
from his own dwelling. It was pierced with two assegais, and 
the blood flowed in streams down its panting and foaming sides. 

Though the gnoo is but a comparatively small animal, its 
high fore-quarters, its coarse and shaggy mane, and its buffalo 
head, give it a very imposing and formidable appearance. It 
was impatiently stamping and striking the ground with its 
fore-feet, and its looks seemed to bid defiance to us all. 

At some risk, on account of the immense concourse of people 
assembled, I put a ball through the animal's shoulders, which 
at once ended its sufferings. A few minutes more — nay, rather 
seconds — there was not a vestige to be seen of it. Indeed, it 
was literally torn to pieces by the natives. 

On paying my respects, later in the evening, to Mr. and Mrs. 
Rath, I was politely informed that the penalty for shooting the 
gnoo was a goat. This being explained, I found, to my surprise, 
that the ball had passed clean through the antelope, and had 
struck dead a goat belonging to these worthy people. 



LION HUNT. 81 

The day previously to my reaching the encampment, Mr. 
Galton had started on an excursion to the westward. His ob- 
ject was chiefly to procure cattle from the natives ; for we had not 
yet succeeded in obtaining a sufficiency of animals. He was 
also anxious to see and explore Erongo, a mountain famous at 
once for its peculiar formation, and as a strong-hold of that curi- 
ous race, the Hill-Damaras. Mr. Galton was accompanied by 
Hans, who had already visited the place, and a few other serv- 
ants. On his return from Erongo, we were to start, with the 
wagons, up the country. 

One day, when eating my humble dinner, I was interrupted 
by the arrival of several natives, who, in breathless haste, related 
that an ongeama, or lion, had just killed one of their goats close 
to the mission station (Richterfeldt), and begged of me to lend 
them a hand in destroying the beast. They had so often cried 
" wolf," that I did not give much heed to their statements ; 
but, as they persisted in their story, I at last determined to as- 
certain its truth. Having strapped to my waist a shooting-belt, 
containing the several requisites of a hunter — such as bullets, 
caps, knife, etc., I shouldered my trusty double-barreled gun (after 
loading it with steel-pointed balls), and followed the men. 

In a short time we reached the spot where the lion was be- 
lieved to have taken refuge. This was in a dense tamarisk 
brake, of some considerable extent, situated partially on, and 
below, the sloping banks of the Swakop, near to its junction 
with the Omutenna, one of its tributaries. 

On the rising ground, above the brake in question, were 
drawn up, in battle array, a number of Damaras and Nama- 
quas, some armed with assegais, and a few with guns. Others 
of the party were in the brake itself, endeavoring to oust the lion. 

But as it seemed to me that the " beaters" were timid, and, 
moreover, somewhat slow in their movements, I called them 
back ; and, accompanied by only one or two persons, as also a 
few worthless dogs, entered the brake myself. It was rather a 
dangerous proceeding ; for, in places, the cover was so thick 
and tangled as to oblige me to creep on my hands and knees ; 
and the lion, in consequence, might easily have pounced upon 
me without a moment's warning. At that time, however, I 
had not obtained any experimental knowledge of the old say- 
ing — " A burnt child dreads the fire," and therefore felt little or 
no apprehension. 

Thus I had proceeded for some time ; when suddenly, and 
within a few paces of where I stood, I heard a low, angry 
growl, which caused the dogs, with hair erect in the manner of 
6 



82 LION HUNT. 

hogs' bristle, and with their tails between their legs, to slink 
behind my heels. Immediately afterwards, a tremendous shout 
of "Ongeama! Ongeama!" was raised by the natives on the 
bank above, followed by a discharge of fire-arms. Presently, 
however, all was still again ; for the lion, as I subsequently 
learnt, after showing himself on the outskirts of the brake, had 
retreated into it. 

Once more I attempted to dislodge the beast ; but, finding 
the enemy awaiting him in the more open country, he was very 
loth to leave his strong-hold. Again, however, I succeeded in 
driving him to the edge of the brake, where, as in the first in- 
stance, he was received with a volley ; but a broomstick would 
have been equally efficacious as a gun in the hands of these peo- 
ple ; for, out of a great number of shot that were fired, not one 
seemed to have taken effect. 

Worn out at length by my exertions, and disgusted beyond 
measure at the way in which the natives bungled the affair, I 
left the tamarisk brake, and, rejoining them on the bank above, 
offered to change place with them ; but my proposal, as I ex- 
pected, was forthwith declined. 

As the day, however, was now fast drawing to a close, I de- 
termined to make one other effort to destroy the lion, and, 
should that prove unsuccessful, to give up the chase. Accord- 
ingly, accompanied by only a single native, I again entered the 
brake in question, which I examined for some time without see- 
ing anything ; but on arriving at that part of the cover we had 
first searched, and when in a spot comparatively free from 
bushes, up suddenly sprung the beast within a few paces of me. 
It was a black-maned lion, and one of the largest I ever remem- 
ber to have encountered in Africa. But his movements were 
so rapid, so silent and smooth withal, that it was not until he 
had partially entered the thick cover (at which time he might 
have been about thirty paces distant) that I could fire. On re- 
ceiving the ball, he wheeled short about, and, with a terrific 
roar, bounded towards me. When within a few paces, he 
couched as if about to spring, having his head embedded, so to 
say, between his fore-paws. 

Drawing a large hunting-knife and slipping it over the wrist 
of my right hand, I dropped on one knee, and, thus prepared, 
awaited his onset. It was an awful moment of suspense ; and 
my situation was critical in the extreme. Still my presence of 
mind never for a moment forsook me — indeed, I felt that no- 
thing but the most perfect coolness and absolute self-command 
would be of any avail. 



SHOOTING ON SUNDAY. 85 

I would now have become the assailant ; but as — owing to 
the intervening bushes, and clouds of dust raised by the lion's 
lashing his tail against the ground — I was unable to see his 
head, while to aim at any other part would have been mad- 
ness, I refrained from firing. Whilst intently watching his 
every motion, he suddenly bounded towards me ; but — whether 
it was owing to his not perceiving me, partially concealed as I 
was in the long grass — or to my instinctively throwing my 
body on one side — or to his miscalculating the distance — in 
making his last spring he went clear over me, and alighted on 
the ground three or four paces beyond. Instantly, and with- 
out rising, I wheeled round on my knee, and discharged my 
second barrel ; and, as his broadside was then towards me, 
lodged a ball in his shoulder, which it completely smashed. 
On receiving my second fire, he made another and more deter- 
mined rush at me ; but, owing to his disabled state, I happily 
avoided him. It was, however, only by a hair's breadth, for he 
passed me within arm's length. He afterwards scrambled into 
the thick cover beyond, where, as night was then approaching, 
I did not deem it prudent to pursue him. 

At an early hour on the next morning, however, we followed 
his " spoor," and soon came to the spot where he had passed 
the night. The sand here was one patch of blood; and the 
bushes immediately about were broken, and beaten down by 
his weight, as he had staggered to and fro in his effort to get on 
his legs again. Strange to say, however, we here lost all clue 
to the beast. A large troop of lions, that had been feasting on a 
giraffe in the early morning, had obliterated his tracks ; and it 
was not until some days afterwards, and when the carcass was 
in a state of decomposition, that his death was ascertained. He 
breathed his last very near to where we were " at fault ;" but, 
in prosecuting the search, we had unfortunately taken exactly 
the opposite direction. 

On our homeward path from the pursuit of the lion, we 
fell in with a herd of zebras ; and, while discharging my gun 
at them, I accidentally pulled both triggers at once. The 
piece being very light, and loaded with double charges, the 
barrel flew out of the stock — the cocks burying themselves 
deep in the flesh on either side of my nose just under the eyes, 
and left scars visible to this day. Mr. Rath, on seeing me in 
this plight, was good enough to say, by way of consolation, 
that it was undoubtedly a just punishment of Heaven, in con- 
sequence of my having carried a gun on a Sunday ! 



CHAPTER X. 

A. CHRISTMAS IN THE DESERT MR. GALT0NS RETURN FROM THE ERONGO 

MOUNTAIN HE PASSES NUMEROUS VILLAGES GREAT DROUGHT; THE 

NATIVES HAVE A CHOICE OP TWO EVILS — THE HILL-DAMARAS THE 

DAMARAS A PASTORAL PEOPLE THE WHOLE COUNTRY PUBLIC PROPERTY — ■ 

ENORMOUS HERDS OF CATTLE THEY ARE AS DESTRUCTIVE AS LOCUSTS TO 

THE VEGETATION DEPARTURE FROM RICHTERFELDT THE AUTHOR KILLS 

AN ORYX THE OXEN REFRACTORY DANGER OF TRAVERSING DRY WATER- 
COURSES ON THE APPROACH OF THE RAINY SEASON MESSAGE FROM THE 

ROBBER-CHIEF, JONKER EMEUTE AMONGST THE SERVANTS DEPART FOR 

schmelen's HOPE. 

We had now been rather more than four months in the 
country, and Christmas had imperceptibly stolen upon us. 
Singularly enough, though I kept a journal, I was not aware of 
the fact until one morning the men came to wish me a "merry 
Christmas." A merry Christmas ! alas ! there were no merry 
children — no joyous feast — no Christmas-trees nor other indica- 
tion of " the hallowed and gracious time." One day was of the 
same importance to us as another. Moreover, our store of 
grocery, etc., was too scant to enable our cook to produce us a 
plum-pudding, or any of those dainty-dishes that even the 
working-man in civilized countries would be sorry to be with- 
out at this season. Fortunately, we had now so accustomed 
ourselves to " bush-diet," that we did not even feel the want of 
what others might deem to be the necessaries of life. Constant 
exposure to the fresh-air and perpetual exercise had so greatly 
increased our appetites, and improved our digestive powers, that 
though we might not, like the natives, demolish a " yard" or so 
of flesh at a meal, we could, nevertheless, play our part at 



THE EBONGO MOUNTAIN. 87 

meals as well as any London alderman — in fact, we could eat 
at all times, and scarcely anything ever came amiss. A draught 
of water from the pure spring, and a piece of dried meat just 
warmed in the hot ashes, was as much relished by us, as a glass 
of sparkling pale ale and a slice of Yorkshire ham would have 
been in Europe. 

In this way we managed to live on cheerfully and agreeably ; 
yet thoughts of home, with ail its comforts, and friends dear to 
memory, would now and then flash across our minds. Such 
reflections, however, we tried to avoid, as they only served to 
sadden us. 

On the morning of the 26th of December, Galton returned 
from his excursion to Erongo. He had been suffering from 
fever, and was right glad to find himself safe back at the 
encampment. The trip had been rather satisfactory. The 
chief result of it was an addition of about twenty oxen, and 
double that number of sheep and goats, to our live-stock. 
We were now pretty well provided against all emergencies — at 
least, for some time to come. Galton had, moreover, ascended 
the mountain, with which he expressed himself much struck 
and pleased. He fully corroborated the story of the natives as 
to its impregnability ; for it was accessible only in one or two 
places, and these could easily be defended against a whole army 
by a mere handful of men. 

In round numbers, it was about three thousand feet above 
the level of the plain, and extended in a straight line upwards 
of fifteen miles. The vegetation appeared very much the same 
as elsewhere in Damara-land, but, perhaps, more rank. The 
wild fig-tree grew rather plentifully among the crevices of the 
rocks, and the travelers obtained an abundance of the fruit, 
which was very palatable. 

Erongo was only inhabited by Hill-Damaras, under the rule 
of different petty chiefs. From all accounts, they were possess- 
ed of numerous herds of cattle ; but my friend only saw their 
tracks, as the natives were unwilling to sell or to exhibit any 
of the animals. They waged an exterminating war with the 
Damaras, who lived in the plains below ; and, having seen the 
party pass unmolested through the territory of their mortal 
enemies, they were naturally suspicious as to their motive. 
They probably thought that Mr. Galton had come with a view 
to spy out and reconnoitre their strong-hold, and then to return 
with reinforcements, in order to carry off their cattle. 

Both in going and coming, Galton had passed through severa. 
large villages of Damaras, who complained bitterly of the severe 



88 IMMENSE HERDS OF CATTLE. 

drought, which was daily carrying off numbers of their stock. 
The only place that still afforded grass and water in tolerable 
abundance, was the country bordering on the river Swakop ; but 
there they feared the JSTamaquas. However, they had only two 
alternatives — either to risk being plundered by these unscrupu- 
lous people, or to perish, with their cattle, from hunger and 
thirst. The first of these was thought the least evil of the two, 
and they were, therefore, gradually approaching the dangerous 
district. Indeed, several kraals had already been established at 
Richterfeldt. 

Being entirely a pastoral people, the Damaras have no 
notions of permanent habitations. The whole country is con- 
sidered public property. As soon as the grass is eaten off, or 
the water exhausted, in one place, they move away to another. 
Notwithstanding this, and the loose notions generally enter- 
tained by them as to meum and tuum, there is an understanding 
that he, who arrives first at any given locality, is the master of 
it as long as he chooses to remain there, and no one will in- 
trude upon him without having previously asked and obtained 
his permission. The same is observed even with regard to 
strangers. Thus the once-powerful chief, Kahichene, was 
anxious to take up his quarters at Richterfeldt; but, acting on 
the understanding described, he first dispatched some of his 
head men to Mr. Rath, to ascertain from him how far he was 
agreeable to his proposal. The Rev. gentleman replied that 
their master could do as he liked in this matter, as he, himself, 
was but a stranger, and, consequently, could not lay any claim 
to the soil. However, the messengers would not listen to this, 
and told him that their chief would never think of intruding 
without having obtained special permission to do so. 

At this period, Kahichene was supposed to be the richest and 
most potent chieftain throughout the country. His wealth, of 
course, consisted solely in oxen and sheep. To give some idea 
of the number he then possessed, I will state that, early on the 
day after the interview just mentioned had taken place, the first 
droves began to make their appearance, and continued to arrive, 
without intermission, till late in the evening of the second day. 
Moreover, they did not come in files of one or two, but the 
whole bed and banks of the Swakop were actually covered 
with one living mass of oxen. And, after all, this was but a 
small portion of what he really owned. In the space of three 
short weeks, not a blade of grass or green thing was to be met 
with for many miles on either side of Richterfeldt. Indeed, a 
person, unacquainted with the real cause of this desolation, 



DEPARTURE FROM RICHTERFELDT. 89 

would have been likely to attribute it to the devastating influ- 
ence of that scourge of Africa — the locust. 

Much valuable time had hitherto been lost in obtaining infor- 
mation of the country and the inhabitants, in buying and 
breaking-in of cattle, and so forth — and this without our having 
accomplished any considerable distance. We were now in 
hope, however, of being able to prosecute our journey in earn- 
est, and no time was lost in making the final arrangements for 
our departure. Our intended route lay to the north of Richter- 
feldt ; but, as the country was said to be very hilly and densely 
wooded, we deemed it advisable to proceed via Barmen. As 
hardly mules enough were left to draw the cart, it was thought 
best to leave it behind in charge of Mr. Rath, who kindly 
promised to look after it in our absence. The two wagons 
were thought sufficiently large to contain ourselves and bag- 
gage. 

The oxen, which from the beginning had been only partially 
broken-in, were now — from their long rest — wild, refractory, and 
unmanageable in the extreme. Before we could effectually 
secure the two spans (teams) necessary for the wagons, several 
hours had elapsed ; and it was not till late in the afternoon of 
the 30th of December, 1850, that we were able to bid a final 
farewell to Richterfeldt, and its obliging inhabitants. 

We made but little progress the first day ; and when we 
bivouacked for the night, which was on the right bank of the 
Swakop. we were only three hours' journey from the missionary 
station. Indeed, we were obliged to come to an early halt, in 
consequence of the mules, and some of the oxen, having taken 
themselves off. 

During the night we were serenaded by whole troops of 
lions and hyaenas. One of the latter had the boldness to come 
within the encampment, and only retreated after an obstinate 
combat with the dogs. In the bed of the river, moreover, and 
where our cattle had been drinking during the night, we dis- 
covered a spot where a lion had made a dash at a zebra, but his 
prey had evidently disappointed him. 

Next morning, without waiting for the return of the men 
who had been sent in search of the missing animals, I shoul- 
dered my gun and went in advance, in the hope of procuring a 
few specimens of natural history — as also of meeting with game 
of some kind or other : nor was I disappointed. At a bend of 
the river, I suddenly encountered a fine herd of oryxes, or 
gemsboks, the supposed South African unicorn. As they 
dashed across my path at double-quick time, and at least one 



90 THE OXEN INTRACTABLE. 

hundred and fifty yards in advance, I fired at the leading animal 
(which proved a fine full-grown female), and had the satisfac- 
tion to see it drop to the shot. On going up to my prize, I 
found that the ball — a conical one — had passed clean through 
both shoulders ; and this was, perhaps, somewhat remarkable, 
as the gun-barrel was smooth in the bore. Having care- 
fully removed the skin, with the head attached to it, I set 
to work to quarter the flesh, which was rather a laborious 
task. 

Though it was winter (January), the day was oppressively 
hot, and the leafless thorn-trees afforded no shelter against the 
burning rays of the sun. I suffered excessively from thirst, and, 
unfortunately, the wagons did not overtake me till after sunset. 
The Damaras yelled with delight at the sight of the oryx. They 
had a glorious gorge that night, and the return of daylight found 
them still at their feast ! 

With the exception of a heavy thunder-storm, accompanied 
by a deluge of rain, our journey to Barmen was marked by no 
further incident worth recording. We reached it in safety on 
the 9th of January, 1851, after seven days' travel, half of which 
time would have been sufficient under ordinary circumstances ; 
but we had experienced very considerable difficulties in getting 
our wagons forward. The oxen pulled well enough so long as 
the country was level; but the moment they had to face a hill, 
they came to a stand, and no amount of flogging would induce 
them to move. When the whip was applied, it only produced 
a furious bellowing, kicking, tossing of heads, switching of 
tails, and so forth. On such occasions they would not unfre- 
quently twist themselves entirely round in the yoke, and it often 
took a whole hour to put them to rights again. 

On account of the thick wood, and general ruggedness of the 
country, the dry beds of periodical water-courses afford the only 
really practicable road. On the approach of the rainy-season, 
however, these are not always safe ; for, when in imagined 
security, the traveler may, perhaps, all at once find himself in 
the midst of a foaming torrent. If the oxen are not well- 
trained, most serious results are to be dreaded. There are many 
instances of wagons with their teams having been thus sur- 
prised and swept away. Our fears on this head, therefore, 
were not quieted until we were in full view of the missionary- 
house at Barmen. Indeed, it was high time ; for on the third 
day of our arrival there, the Swakop sent down its mighty 
flood. 

The first showers of rain, it should be remarked, usually fall 



REFRACTOR \ SERVANTS. 91 

as early as September and October, but the rainy-season does 
not fairly set-in until December and January. 

A letter from Jonker Afrikaner was awaiting our arrival, 
expressing a wish that Mr. Galton, in person, would pay him 
an early visit, that the} 7 might confer together on the affairs of 
the country. My friend was, at first, a little undecided how 
to act, as it might only have been a ruse of the crafty chief to 
entrap him. However, as under every circumstance it would 
be better to know his real intentions than to be kept in constant 
uncertainty and suspense, he determined, as soon as circum- 
stances permitted, to comply with Jonker's desire. 

When we bade farewell to Richterfeldt, it was in the firm 
conviction that the principal obstacles to the expedition had been 
removed ; but we were sadly mistaken. Under different pre- 
texts, the natives whom we had engaged suddenly refused to 
proceed any further. Even the man who had first drawn our 
attention to the lake Omanbonde, and who seemed to be the 
only one acquainted with it, threatened to leave us. Our Cape 
servants, also, became somewhat sulky and discontented. 
Indeed, two of them, Gabriel and John Waggoner, whom the 
reader will remember as having already given us some trouble, 
demanded and obtained their dismissal. Thus circumstanced, 
it was out of the question to think of immediately carrying our 
plan into execution. We felt excessively annoyed, and our 
stock of patience was well nigh exhausted. Still we did not 
give up all hope of ultimate success. 

Barmen, however, was ill-suited as an encampment ; for, 
though agreeable enough as a residence for ourselves, grass for 
the cattle was scarce and distant. Mr. Hahn advised us to push 
on to Schmelen's Hope, situated at about fifteen miles to the 
northward, where, inasmuch as there had not been any natives 
dwelling of late, we should find abundance of pasturage. 
Accordingly, we acted on his suggestion, and in the afternoon 
of the 13th of January were established at that place. 



CHAPTER XI. 

SCHMELBN'S HOPE SCENERY MISSIONARY STATION RAID OP THE NAMA- 

QUAS INGRATITUDE OF THE NATIVES JONKER's FEUD WITH KAHI- 

CHENE ; HIS BARBARITIES ; HIS TREACHERY MR. GALTON DEPARTS FOR 

EDXHAMS AUTHOR'S SUCCESSFUL SPORTING EXCURSIONS HECAPTURES A 

YOUNG STEINBOK AND A KOODOO THEY ARE EASILY DOMESTICATED 

HYAENAS VERY TROUBLESOME ; SEVERAL DESTROYED BY SPRING-GUNS 

THE LATTER DESCRIBED VISIT FROM A LEOPARD ; IT WOUNDS A DOG ; 

CHASE AND DEATH OF THE LEOPARD THE CARACAL. 

Schmelen's Hope is picturesquely situated on the right 
bank of the Little Swakop and just at the confluence of one of 
its tributaries, the banks of which were lined with majestic 
trees of the mimosa and the acacia family. Some of these 
were now in full bloom, and presented an interesting and beau- 
tiful appearance. Heavy showers of rain, moreover, having 
lately fallen, the grateful earth acknowledged the tribute by 
rapidly sending forth her boundless store of aromatic herbs and 
plants — 

" Herbs for man's use of various power, 
That either food or physick yield." 

The whole aspect of the country changed as if by magic, and I 
gazed on the altered features of the landscape in rapture and 
amazement. It strongly reminded me of the Psalmist's words — 

" His rains from heaven parch'd hills recruit, 
That soon transmit the liquid store, 
Till earth is burden'd with her fruit, 
And nature's lap can hold no more." 

Schmelen's Hope (Sch?nelen , s Vervachtung) is so called, partly 
on account of its advanced position, and partly in honor of its 



MISSIONARY STATION. 93 

founder, the Kev. Mr. Schmelen, who, by all accounts, was one 
of the most gifted and most enterprising of missionaries that 
ever set foot on African soil. For a time, this station was oc- 
cupied by Mr. Hahn ; and, recently, by his colleague, Mr. 
Kolbe. About the time that we landed at Walfisch Bay, how- 
ever, the latter had found it necessary to beat a precipitate 
retreat, in consequence of an attack upon the station by a party 
of Namaquas. 

Shortly after Mr. Kolbe's settlement at Schmelen's Hope, he 
was joined by Kahichene — of whom mention has been made in 
the foregoing pages — and a considerable number of his tribe. 
They continued to live here in the most unsuspecting security. 
The missionary cause made considerable progress, and hopes 
were really entertained that Damara-land might eventually be 
civilized. The golden visions of a happy future for this unfor- 
tunate country were, however, speedily dispersed by the sudden 
appearance of a party of Namaquas, under the immediate com- 
mand of Jonker Afrikaner. By this band, a great number of 
the natives were massacred ; a considerable booty of cattle was 
carried off ; and Kahichene, himself, had a hair-breadth escape. 
Just as he was making good his retreat, he was observed and 
followed by a mounted Namaqua. On finding himself hard 
pressed, and that it was impossible to avoid his pursuer, the 
chief turned quickly round, and the next instant, with a poison- 
ed arrow, laid the man dead at his feet. 

Many acts of great cruelty were perpetrated on this occasion, 
of which the following may be cited. Several Damaras had 
taken refuge on the summit of an isolated rock, eighty or ninety 
feet in height. As soon as the Namaquas perceived them, they 
coolly seated themselves round the base ; and, whenever any of 
the poor fellows peeped forth from their hiding-places, they 
were shot down like so many crows. Mr. Galton and myself 
visited the spot soon after our arrival at Schmelen's Hope, and 
saw the bleached bones of the victims scattered about ; but we 
were unable to ascertain the exact number of people killed, as 
the jackals and hyaenas had carried away and demolished many 
parts of the skeletons. 

Though no direct attack was made on the missionary station, 
on this occasion, Mr. Kolbe, nevertheless, considered it would 
be imprudent to remain there any longer. Accordingly, pack- 
ing the most valuable of his goods on his wagon, he hurriedly 
departed for Barmen. 

A few days afterwards, some fugitive Damaras returned to 
the place of their misfortunes, and, on finding the house aban- 



94 oONKER'S feud with KAHICHENE. 

doned, they were base enough to despoil it of its contents. 
Moreover, what they could not themselves use, they wantonly 
destroyed or scattered about on the ground. On our arrival at 
Schmelen's Hope, therefore, we found nothing remaining but 
the mere shell of the house. This, though simply constructed 
of clay, and thatched with reeds, was rather neatly executed, 
and had apparently, at one time, been the exterior of a comfort- 
able dwelling. 

Water was obtained from a large pool or vley, which, how- 
ever, in very arid years, might dry away. About five miles up 
the Swakop was, moreover, a rather copious fountain, called 
Okandu, where cattle might drink. 

Generally speaking, if they have a chance of obtaining 
cattle, the Namaquas are not at all nice as to whether they rob 
friend or foe. On this particular occasion, however, they were 
supposed to have had an old grudge against Kahichene and his 
tribe. Once, as Jonker and a large party of his followers 
were on the way to Walfisch Bay, their provisions failed them ; 
and hearing that Kahichene, with whom they were then on 
friendly terms, was in the neighborhood, they bent their steps 
towards his kraal. Kahichene received them civilly, but re- 
fused to supply their wants. He, however, advised Jonker to 
help himself to cattle from another Damara chief, who, he said 
(though without any kind of foundation), was their mutual 
enemy. Jonker did not wait to be told twice, but immediately 
attacked this man's kraal. In the fight that ensued, some of 
Kahichene's people were accidentally killed; but he, believing 
the slaughter had been intentionally perpetrated, made a furious 
onset on Jonker that very night. As usually happens, how- 
ever, and, perhaps, in some degree owing to the Damaras 
having fewer guns than the Namaquas, he was beaten off with 
very severe loss. Though the affair was afterwards made up 
between the chiefs, Jonker, in his heart, never forgave Kahi- 
chene's attack upon him, which he looked upon as a breach of 
faith. 

In all the attacks of the Namaquas, the most atrocious bar- 
barities w T ere committed. The men were unmercifully shot 
down; the hands and the feet of the women lopped off; the 
bowels of the children ripped up, etc. ; and all this to gratify 
a savage thirst for blood. Many poor creatures have I myself 
seen dragging out a miserable existence, that had thus been 
deprived of limbs, or otherwise cruelly mutilated. 

Jonker himself would seem to have been callous to all the 
better feelings of our nature. News having been brought to 



SPORTING EXCURSIONS. 95 

him on one occasion of the loss of a merchant vessel (some- 
where about Cape Cross), he and his men started in search of 
the wreck. Before reaching it, some of his cattle were stolen, 
and as the theft was conjectured to have been committed by 
the Damaras, Jonker sent for the chief of the suspected tribe, 
received him in a friendly way, and invited him to remain in his 
camp for the night, in the course of which, however, he caused 
him to be brutally murdered. Before expiring, the poor fel- 
low requested permission to see his wife and children, but 
Jonker was inhuman enough to refuse his request. On re- 
ceiving a denial, the unfortunate man turned towards his 
slayer, and, wiping the blood from his face, exclaimed — 
" Since you have dealt thus treacherously by me, and even 
refused to allow me to see my family, you shall never prosper ; 
and my cattle, which I well know you covet, shall be a curse 
to you !" 

It has been asserted that Jonker once contemplated the 
extermination of all grown men amongst the Damaras, and of 
dividing the women, the children, and the cattle amongst his 
own people, hoping thereby to make his tribe the most power- 
ful in that part of Africa. 

On the 16th of January, Mr. Galton started for Eikhams, 
the residence of Jonker Afrikaner, on his mission of peace. He 
was accompanied by Hans, John Mortar, and two or three 
native servants. 

Two days later, the mules, though closely watched, managed 
to elude our vigilance, and make good their escape. For- 
tunately, they were intercepted at Barmen, whence they were 
kindly sent back by Mr. Hahn. Not long afterwards, they 
again went off; but, passing Barmen this time in the night, no 
one saw them, and, 'consequently, they were allowed to pursue 
their course uninterruptedly, and were never retaken. Strange 
to relate, these animals (with the exception of two, that were 
destroyed by lions, in the neighborhood of Richterfeldt) ultimately 
found their way back to Scheppmansdorf, having traveled above 
two hundred miles by themselves ! 

During Mr. Galton's absence, 1 managed to beguile the time 
agreeably and usefully. Indeed, I spent some of my happiest 
days in this quiet, secluded, and charming spot, in the full 
enjoyment of unrestrained liberty. The mornings were usually 
devoted to excursions in the neighborhood in search of game. 
Of quadrupeds, we had the giraffe, the gnoo, the gemsbok, the 
springbok, the koodoo, the pallah, the steinbok, etc. ; so that I 
had no difficulty in keeping the larder pretty well supplied. J 



96 SPRING-GUN FOR THE HYAENA. 

also made many an interesting and valuable addition to my 
collection of specimens of natural history. 

One day, a young steinbok was captured, as also a koodoo, 
and I was fortunate enough to rear both. 

With the steinbok, I had very little trouble ; a she-goat, 
whom I deprived of its kid, having taken to it kindly, and 
become to it a second mother. The koodoo did not give me 
much more trouble ; for, after a few days, during which milk 
was given to it with a spoon, it would of itself suck from 
what mothers call a " feeding-bottle," 1 and butt and pull away 
at it, as if it was drawing nourishment from the teats of 
its dam. 

Both the steinbok and the koodoo were very pretty crea- 
tures, and, in a short time, became very tame and affectionate. 
Their lively and graceful caperings, and playful frolics, were 
to us all a source of much amusement. Their end, however, 
was somewhat tragical — the steinbok died from exhaustion 
after a severe day's march, and the koodoo, which would have 
been a valuable addition to the beautiful menagerie in Regent's 
Park, I was obliged to kill, because we could not obtain a suffi- 
ciency of proper food for its maintenance, and had no room 
in the wagon for its conveyance. It grieved me much to 
destroy the poor creature, but there was no alternative. 

Hyaenas, called wolves, by the colonists, were very numerous 
at Schinelen's Hope, and exceedingly audacious and trouble- 
some. More than once, during dark and drizzling nights, they 
made their way into the sheep-kraal, where they committed sad 
havoc. We had several chases after them, but they managed 
invariably to elude us. 

To get rid of these troublesome guests, we placed some 
spring-guns in their path, and by means of this contrivance 
compassed the death of several. 

The manner in which the spring-gun is set for the hyaena is 
as follows : — 

Two young trees are selected and divested of their lower 
branches, or, in lieu of such, a couple of stout posts, firmly 
driven into the ground, will answer the purpose equally well. 
To these trees, or posts, as the case may be, the gun is firmly 
lashed in a horizontal position and with the muzzle pointing 
slightly upwards. A piece of wood about six inches in length 
— the lever in short — is tied to the side of the gun-stock in such 

1 A bottle of auy kind, filled with milk, and with a quill (enveloped in linen) 
inserted in the cork. 



VISIT FROM A LEOPARD. 99 

a manner as to move slightly forwards and backwards. A short 
piece of string connects the trigger with the lower part of the 
lever. To the upper extremity of the latter is attached a 
longer piece of cord, to the outer end of which, after it has 
been passed through one of the empty ramrod tubes, is tied a 
lump of flesh, which is pushed over the muzzle of the gun. 

These matters being arranged, a sort of fence, consisting of 
thorny bushes, is made around the spot : only one small, 
narrow opening being left, and that right in front of the muzzle 
of the gun. A " drag," consisting of tainted flesh, or other offal, 
is then trailed from different points of the surrounding country 
directly up to the " toils." 

When the hyaena seizes the bait — which she can only do by 
gaping across the muzzle of the weapon — and pulls at it, the 
gun at once explodes, and the chances are a hundred to one 
that the brains of the beast are scattered far and wide. 

During our stay at Schmelen's Hope, we not unfrequently 
received visits from leopards, by the Dutch erroneously called 
"tigers" — under which denomination the panther is also in- 
cluded. But I do not believe that tigers — at least, of the 
species common to the East Indies — exist on the African 
continent. The Damaras, however, assert that the real tiger 
is found in the country; and they once pointed out to Mr. 
Rath the tracks of an animal, which he declared to me were 
very different to any he had ever before seen in Africa, and 
which the natives assured him were those of the animal in 
question. 

One night, I was suddenly awoke by a furious barking of 
our dogs, accompanied by cries of distress. Suspecting that 
some beast of prey had seized upon one of them, I leaped, 
undressed, out of my bed — and, gun in hand, hurried to the 
spot whence the cries proceeded. The night was pitchy dark, 
however, and I could distinguish nothing ; yet, in the hope of 
frightening the intruder away, I shouted at the top of my voice. 
In a few moments, a torch was lighted, and we then discerned 
the tracks of a leopard, and also large patches of blood. On 
counting the dogs, I found that " Summer," the best and fleetest 
of our kennel, was missing. As it was in vain that I called and 
searched for him, I concluded that the tiger had carried him 
away ; and, as nothing further could be done that night, I again 
retired to rest ; but the fate of the poor animal continued to 
haunt me, and drove sleep away. I had seated myself on the 
front chest of the wagon, when suddenly the melancholy cries 
were repeated ; and, on reaching the spot, I discovered " Sum- 



100 DEATH OF THE B E A S T— T H E CARACAL. 

mer" stretched at full length, in the middle of a bush. Though 
the poor creature had several deep wounds about his throat and 
chest, he at once recognized me, and, wagging his tail, looked 
wistfully in my face. The sight sickened me, as I carried him 
into the house, where, in time, however, he recovered. 

The very next day, " Summer" was revenged in a very unex- 
pected manner. Some of the servants had gone into the bed of 
the river to chase away a jackal, when they suddenly encoun- 
tered a leopard in the act of springing at our goats, which were 
grazing, unconscious of danger, on the river's bank. On finding 
himself discovered, he immediately took refuge in a tree, where 
he was at once attacked by the men. It was, however, not until 
he had received upwards of sixteen wounds — some of which 
were inflicted by poisoned arrows — that life became extinct. I 
arrived at the scene of conflict only to see him die. 

During the whole affair, the men had stationed themselves at 
the foot of the tree — to the branches of which the leopard was 
pertinaciously clinging — and, having expended all their ammu- 
nition, one of them proposed— and the suggestion was taken 
into serious consideration — that they should pull him down by 
the tail ! 

The poorer of the Damaras, when hard pressed for food, eat 
the flesh of the leopard, the hyaena, and many other beasts of 
prey. 

The caracal (felis caracal), or the wild cat, as it is generally 
called in these parts, was not uncommon in the neighborhood 
of Schmelen's Hope. The fur of this animal is warm and hand- 
some, and is much esteemed by the natives, who convert the 
skins into carosses, etc. 

According to Professor Thunberg, who gives it on the authori- 
ty of the Dutch boers, the skin of the caracal is also "very effi- 
cacious as a discutient when applied to parts affected with cold 
or rheumatism." 



CHAPTER XII. 

WILD FOWL ABUNDANT THE GREAT BUSTAED THE TERMITES WILD 

BEES MUSHROOMS THE CHIEF ZWARTBOOI RETURN OF ME. GALTON 

HE MAKES A TREATY WITH JONKER HE VISITS REHOBOTH MISDOINGS 

OF JOHN WAGGONER AND GABRIEL CHANGE OF SEEVANTS SWAEM OF 

CATEEPILLAES — 'A RECONNOITERING EXPEDITION THUNDER-STOEM THE 

OMATAKO MOUNTAINS ZEBEA FLESH A GOD-SEND — TEOPICAL PHENOMENON 

THE DAMAEAS NOT EEMAEEABLE FOE VEEACITY ENCAMP IN AN 

ANT-HILL RETURN TO SCHMELEN'S HOPE PREPARATIONS FOR VISITING 

OMANBONDE. 

We never fared better than at Schmelen's Hope. Besides 
the larger game mentioned, our table was plentifully supplied 
with geese, ducks, guinea-fowls, francolins, grouse, and so forth. 
The large bustard (otis kori, Burch), the South African paauw, was, 
moreover, very abundant, but so shy, that to kill it, even with 
the rifle, was considered a dexterous exploit. One that I shot, 
weighed no less than twenty-eight pounds. I have since re- 
peatedly killed African bustards of this species ; but I never saw 
a second bird that attained more than two-thirds of the weight 
just specified ; usually, they do not exceed fourteen or fifteen 
pounds. The flesh is very tender and palatable ; indeed, to my 
notion, it is the best flavored of all the game birds found 
throughout this portion of South Africa. 

It being now the breeding season, the numerous flocks of 
guinea-fowls in the neighborhood afforded us a constant supply 
of fresh eggs, which, as has been said elsewhere, are excel- 
lent. 

Schmelen's Hope swarmed with termites, or white ants 1 . My 

1 For a detailed account of this curious and interesting 1 insect, see Mr. West- 
wood (British Cyclopcedia) ; Mr. Savage (Annals of Natural History, vol. 5, 
p. 92), etc. 



102 WILD BEE S T HE CHIEF ZWARTBOOI. 

ideas of ant-hills were here, for the first time, realized ; for 
some of the abodes of this interesting, though destructive 
insect, measured as much as one hundred feet in circum- 
ference at the base, and rose to about twenty in height ! 
Termites are seldom seen in the daytime ; but it is not an 
unusual thing, after having passed a night on the ground, to 
find skins, rugs, etc., perforated by them in a hundred different 
places. 

In constructing their nests, the termites do not add to them 
externally, as with the species of ant common to England, but 
enlarge them from within by thrusting out, so to say, the wall. 
Their labors are commonly carried on in the dark ; and, at 
early morn, each night's addition to the building may be discov- 
ered by its moisture. " They unite," says the " English Cyclo- 
psedia," " in societies composed each of an immense number of 
individuals, living in the ground and in trees, and often attacking 
the wood-work of houses, in which they form innumerable gal- 
leries, all of which lead to a central point. In forming these 
galleries, they avoid piercing the surface of the wood-work, and 
hence it appears sound, when the slightest touch is sometimes 
sufficient to cause it to fall to pieces." This is a clear and, I 
have no doubt, a correct account. I myself have often been 
astonished to find huge trees, apparently sound, crumble to 
pieces on being touched by the hand. 

Wild bees very frequently make their nests in the gigantic 
dwellings of the termites. In some years, bees are very numer- 
ous. The disposition of these insects would appear to be 
unusually quiet and forbearing. Indeed, I never knew a 
man to be stung 037- them when robbing their nests. Com- 
monly, these are smoked in the first instance; but just as often 
(as I myself have many times witnessed) they are fearlessly 
approached, and plundered by the naked savage without this 
precaution. 

It is another interesting fact in connection with the dwellings 
of the termites, that during the rainy season, mushrooms grow 
in great abundance on their sides. In size and flavor, these 
mushrooms are far superior to any found in Europe. Care, 
however, must be taken in selecting them ; for other fungi of a 
poisonous nature are almost identical in appearance. Two of 
the children of one of our Damaras were very nearly killed by 
eating some of these instead of mushrooms. 

On the 6th of February, I received a visit from the great 
Namaqua chieftain, named William Zwartbooi, and found him a 
a very agreeable old personage. He had met Mr. Gralton not far 



THE CHIEF ZWARTBOOI. 103 

from Eikhams, who had sent him to Schmelen's Hope to wait 
his return. 

At one time, this chief had robbed and massacred the Dama- 
ras in precisely a similar way as Jonker Afrikaner ; but, thanks 
to the exertions of the missionaries, he had been gradually 
weaned from his evil practices, and was now living on excellent 
terms with his neighbors. 

Jonker and Zwartbooi associated occasionally, but they were 
by no means well-disposed towards each other. On one occa- 
sion, when the latter had expressed displeasure at his friend's 
inhuman proceedings against the Damaras, Jonker told him, 
that if he (Zwartbooi) meddled with his affairs, he would pay 
him such a visit as would put a stop to his devotions and make 
him cry for quarter. 

Within Zwartbooi's territory was a mountain, called Tans, 
where horses might pasture throughout the year without being 
exposed to the " paarde ziekte," the cruel distemper to which 
these animals are subject. Almost all the northern Namaquas, 
Jonker amongst the rest, are in the habit of sending their horses 
here during the sickly season. 

On one occasion, when Jonker was about to make a " raid" 
on the Damaras, he sent an express to Zwartbooi for his 
horses ; but this chief, having been apprised of the cause for 
which the steeds were wanted, refused under some pretext to give 
them up ; and, whilst parleying, the favorable opportunity was 
lost. It seems Jonker never forgave Zwartbooi this act of 
treachery, as he called it, and determined, let the risk be what- 
ever it might, never again to put himself in another man's 
power. 

Two days after Zwartbooi's arrival at Schmelen's Hope, 
Mr. Galton returned. He had been successful beyond his 
most sanguine expectations, for Jonker had not alone formally 
apologized to Mr. Kolbe for his brutal behavior at Schmelen's 
Hope, but had expressed regret at his past conduct, and had 
faithfully promised for the future to live in peace and amity 
with the Damaras. Several important regulations had, more- 
over, been proposed by my friend, and approved by Jonker 
and his tribe, with a view of upholding order and justice in 
the land ; but how far they were carried out the sequel will 
show. 

Fresh messengers had also been dispatched to the respective 
Namaqua and Damara chiefs, with a request that they would at- 
tend a general meeting in order to secure to the country a lasting 
peace. We could not, however, induce them to do this. The 



104 JOHN WAGGONER. 

late attacks were too fresh in their memory, to inspire confidence 
in either party : each distrusted his neighbor. 

Jonker gave Mr. Galton much interesting and valuable in- 
formation regarding the country northwards. He had, himself, 
made two or three expeditions in that direction, the last of 
which, as mentioned, was for the purpose of plundering a vessel, 
reported to have been wrecked off Cape Cross. 

In the course of his journey, Mr. Galton visited Rehoboth, 
a Rhenish missionary station, and the residence of Wil- 
liam Zwartbooi. The mission was here conducted by the 
Rev. Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Vollmer, and was at this period 
the most flourishing establishment of the kind in the coun- 
try. 

Here my friend learnt with regret that John Waggoner, who, as 
the reader may remember, was dismissed at Barmen, had after- 
wards acted very disgracefully and dishonestly. He began by sell- 
ing the same sheep to a trader three times over. And, just as Mr. 
G-alton arrived, John had absconded with several head of cattle, 
stolen from the missionaries and the natives. My friend at once 
started off in pursuit ; but though he followed on his track for 
a day and a night, he was obliged to return without having been 
able to overtake him. 

Wherever John Waggoner went he represented himself as 
Mr. Galton's servant, and affirmed that he was intrusted with 
dispatches of moment for the British Government at the Cape. 
He added, moreover, that, under such circumstances, they were 
in duty bound to assist and speed him on his way. The most 
extravagant reports of our greatness and importance had already 
been circulated throughout the length and breadth of the land 
by the natives themselves. This, together with John's impu- 
dent and confident air, produced the desired effect. Horses, cattle, 
wagons, etc., were everywhere promptly placed at his disposal. 
Even the missionaries were duped ; and John is said to have 
reached his destination enriched with spoils, in an incredibly 
short time. His first act, on arriving at the Cape, was to en- 
gage himself to a trader, who imprudently advanced him a 
considerable sum of money, which he coolly pocketed and then 
decamped. 

Our lad, Gabriel, also marked his road to the Colony with 
many traits of violence and insolence, but he had neither the 
cunning nor the impudence of his associate. 

Abraham Wenzel, the thief, had again behaved improperly, 
and Mr. Galton found it necessary to give him his dismissal. 

We had thus, in a short time lost the services of three men ; 



A REC0NN0ITERING EXPEDITION. 105 

but, fortunately, through the kindness of our friend, Zwartbooi, 
we were able to replace them by two others. The first of these 
was his own henchman, Onesimus, who was a Damara by birth, 
but had been captured as a child, and brought up amongst the 
Namaquas. He spoke the language of these two nations most 
fluently, and understood, moreover, a few words of Dutch. 
What with his capacity as an interpreter, his even temper and 
general good behavior, he became one of the most useful men 
of our party. 

The other man, Phillipus, was also a Damara by birth, 
but had forgotten his native tongue. He spoke, however, the 
Namaqua and the Dutch fluently. He was appointed a wagon- 
driver. 

One morning, to our surprise, we found the whole ground 
about our encampment covered with larvee of a dark-green color. 
Whence or how they came there was to us quite a mystery. We 
at length conjectured that at some previous period a swarm of 
locusts, in passing the place, had deposited their ova in the sand, 
and, now that the green grass began to spring up (which provided 
them with suitable food), their progeny emerged in the shape of 
worms. 

At the same time many thousand storks appeared, and evi- 
dently much relished the rich and abundant repast. 

Mr. Galton's successful remonstrances with Jonker had paci- 
fied the excited minds of our Damaras. It had inspired them 
with fresh confidence, and they no longer declined to accompany 
us. The worst of our Cape servants had been weeded out, and 
their places filled with useful and competent men. Our stud of 
draught-oxen, moreover, had been greatly increased, to say no- 
thing of a large supply of live-stock. Matters thus once more 
looked bright and cheering, and we no longer hesitated to prose- 
cute our journey. Nevertheless, before making the final arrange- 
ments, it was deemed advisable to know something of the 
country immediately in advance of us, and how far it was prac- 
ticable for wagons. Galton having just returned from an 
excursion, it was thought only fair that I should undertake to 
ascertain this point. 

Accordingly I left Schmelen's Hope on the 24th of February, 
on ox-back, accompanied by Timbo, John St. Helena, and John 
Allen, perhaps the three most trustworthy and useful of our 
servants ; as also a few Damaras, who were to serve me as guides 
and herdsmen. 

_ On the first night after leaving Schmelen's Hope, we were 
visited by a terrific thunder-storm, accompanied bv a deluge of 



106 THE OMATAKO MOUNTAINS. 

rain, which continued without intermission till four o'clock the 
next morning. 

"With my legs drawn up under my chin, and the caross well 
wrapped round my head, I spent this dreadful night seated on a 
stone, whilst the men, strange to tell, slept soundly at my feet 
in a deluge of water. The next day, however, was bright and 
warm. The earth steamed with the sweet odors of a tropical 
herbage, and the landscape looked so beautiful and smiling, that 
I felt my heart leap with joy and gratitude to the Griver of all 
good. The misery of the night was soon forgotten, and we pro- 
ceeded cheerfully on our journey. 

As we traveled on, we caught a glimpse of the beautiful cones 
of Omatako, which rise about two thousand feet above the level 
of the plain. I scarcely remember having ever been more struck 
or delighted with any particular feature in a landscape, than 
when these two "Teneriffes" first broke upon my view. 

" Then felt I like some watcher of the skies, 
When a new planet swims into his ken." 

We must have been fifty or sixty miles from these conical moun- 
tains, yet there they were, as distinct as if we had stood at their 
base. The immense distance at which objects can be seen in 
these regions, in a clear atmosphere, is truly marvelous. 

By reference to the map, it will be seen that we were now on 
a high table-land, about six thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. It is from this plateau that the principal rivers of Damara- 
land take their rise. 

With the exception of a single kraal of impoverished Damaras, 
we found no inhabitants. On leaving Schmelen's Hope, we had 
been led to suppose that we should meet with several werfts of 
wealthy natives, from whom we might obtain, in barter, an un- 
limited number of cattle. We foolishly enough trusted to this 
chance, and started with only one day's provision. Game, it is 
true, we found very abundant, but the animals were very wild, 
and I was pressed for time, and could not give chase to them. 
One evening I fired at a zebra — but, not distinguishing the pecu- 
liar sound of the ball when striking the animal (a power of ear 
acquired by much practice), I supposed I had missed it, and, 
therefore, did not follow its tracks. On passing, however, nearly 
by the same place next evening, we found that the animal had 
been killed, and, excepting the head and part of the neck, was 
devoured by vultures. The conical ball I used on the occasion, 
was found loose in the inside of the skeleton. Notwithstanding 



TRACKS OF ELEPHANTS. 107 

the defiled state of what was left of the carcass, we hailed it as 
a perfect god-send. For the two previous days we had been 
living on zebra-flesh, in a state of decay, which our Damaras had 
accidentally picked up. Indeed, our guides had absconded from 
want of food. 

One evening, when very much fatigued from the day's march, 
and suffering cruelly from thirst, our native servants, by way of 
consolation, entertained us with the following interesting ac- 
count of their countrymen. 

" The Damaras," they said, " are now watching us from a dis- 
tance, and, as soon as we shall have gone to sleep, they will 
suddenly fall upon us, and assegai us." 

Timbo, John St. Helena, and John Allen, evidently believed 
them, and looked wretchedly uncomfortable. As for myself — 
though there certainly was nothing at all improbable in the story 
— I felt less apprehensive than annoyed, well knowing the bad 
effect it would have on the timid and superstitious minds of my 
men. 

On the third day, about noon, we reached the northern side of 
Omatako, where we struck a small periodical river of the same 
name. To our dismay, however, we found it perfectly dry; and, as 
we had then already been twenty-four hours without a drop of 
water, I was afraid to proceed any further. Just as we were about 
to retrace our steps, the river, to our inexpressible delight, came 
down with a rush. To those of my readers who are not conver- 
sant with the mysteries of a tropical climate, it may appear almost 
impossible that a dry water-course should in the space of five 
minutes, and without any previous indication, be converted into 
a foaming torrent ; yet, in the rainy season, this is almost an 
every-day occurrence. Not a cloud obscured the transparent 
atmosphere at the time ; but on the preceding night there had 
been vivid lightning and heavy thunder in the direction of the 
source of the river, which sufficiently accounted for the pheno- 
menon. 

On this river I saw, for the first time, the gigantic footprints 
of elephants. The natives told me that these animals come 
here in great numbers in the winter-time, and, when the water 
begins to diminish, they return slowly northwards. Hans 
assured me that their tracks are still to be seen as far south as 
the river Swakop, close to its embouchure. 

From this point we had a very good prospect of the country. 
Several interesting mountains presented themselves to the view. 
To the north, the Konyati, Eshuameno, la Kabaka, and Omu- 
vereoom, stood out in bold relief. Some of these were similar 



10S DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING INFORMATION. 

to that of Erongo, and, like it, inhabited by Hill-Damaras, as 
also a few Bushmen. 

I was particularly anxious to learn something of the country 
towards the north, in which direction — as before said — our route 
to Omanbonde lay ; but it was in vain that I endeavored to get 
anything like correct information from the natives, notwith- 
standing some had actually been living there. I was excessively 
annoyed, and imagined that their conflicting accounts were pur- 
posely invented to deceive and frighten me ; but, as I became 
more intimate with the Damara character, I found that they 
lied more from habit than for the mere sake of lying. Indeed, 
a Damara would believe his own lies, however glaring and 
startling they might be. Thus, for instance, they informed me 
that the mountain Omuvereoom, which was distinctly visible, 
lay ten long days' journey off, and was inhabited by Hill- 
Damaras and Bushmen, whom they represented as perfect devils ; 
moreover, that the intervening space was entirely destitute of 
water, and that any one attempting to traverse it would be sure 
to perish. At a subsequent period, we not only reached this 
mountain after fourteen hours' traveling, but found an abundance 
of water; and the natives, instead of being monsters, were the 
most timid and harmless of human beings. 

This, however, is only one of the hundred instances that might 
be mentioned of the difficulty of eliciting truth from the Damaras. 
The missionaries had been living for several years at Barmen 
and Schmelen's Hope, before they were aware of the existence 
of either "Buxton" or Okandu fountain; and yet these places 
were within a very short distance of the stations, and they had 
made repeated inquiries after springs. 

With regard to the distance and situation of Omanbonde, the 
chief object of our journey, they could not say whether one or 
ten weeks would be required in order to reach it. One man 
told Galton that if he started at once for this place, and traveled 
as fast as he could, he would be an old man by the time he re- 
turned. 1 

Eeturning homewards, wepursued a somewhat different course. 
The first night, the men, for the sake of variety, it is presumed, 
thought fit to encamp in the middle of an ant-hill ! I was absent 
at the time, and, on returning, all the arrangements had been 

1 This surpasses the graphic answer given to Bjorn Jernsida (the bear iron- 
side), a famous Swedish sea-king. When on his way to plunder Rome, he inquired 
of a wayfaring man what the distance might be. " Look at these shoes," said the 
traveler, holding up a pair of worn-out iron-shod sandals ; " when I left the place 
you inquire for, they were new ; judge then for yourself!" 



RETURN TO SCHMELEN's HOPE. 109 

made for the night. Tired as we were, I could not well think 
of moving. The result may easily be imagined. 

The next day, in the more open parts of the country, we met 
with a very great abundance of a kind of sweet berry, about the 
size of peas, which afforded us a delicious feast. 

Early in the morning of the sixth day we found ourselves back 
at Schmelen's Hope, having been sixty hours on the move, or, 
at an average, twelve hours daily. Allowing three miles per 
hour, at the lowest estimation, we had gone over a tract of 
country fully one hundred and eighty miles in extent, the greater 
part of which, moreover, had been performed on foot. Under 
ordinary circumstances, we should, perhaps, have thought 
nothing of the performance ; but, what with bad living, previous 
long rest, and so forth, we were in poor condition for such sud- 
den and severe exertions. Indeed, before we were at the jour- 
ney's end, both man and beast were completely knocked up. 

The object, however, had been gained. We had ascertained 
that the country, for several days' journey, was tolerably open 
and traversable for wagons ; that grass abounded ; and that (the 
most important point of all) we should be sure of water for our- 
selves and cattle. 

No time was now lost in making ready for a final start. An 
American, who had long been in Mr. Harm's service, was about 
to travel to the Cape by land. Although the journey was sup- 
posed to last at least six or seven months, communication was 
so rare in these parts that we deemed it advisable to benefit by 
it. Letters were accordingly written to friends and acquaint- 
ances, as also dispatches for the British Government at the 
Cape. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

DEPART FROM SCHMELEN'S HOPE MEETING "WITH KAHICHENE OXEN 

STOLEN — SUMMARY JUSTICE SUPERSTITION MEETING- AN OLD FRIEND 

SINGULAR CUSTOM GLUTTONY OF THE DAMARAS HOW THEY EAT 

FLESH BY THE YARD AND NOT BY THE POUND SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOM 

A NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL THE AUTHOR LOSES HIS "WAY RAVAGES OF 

THE TERMITES " "WAIT A BIT, D7 YOU PLEASE" MAGNIFICENT FOUNTAIN 

REMAINS OF DAMARA VILLAGES HORRORS OF "WAR MEET BUSHMEN 

MEET DAMARAS DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED BY AFRICAN TRAVELERS 

REACH THE LAKE OMANBONDE CRUEL DISAPPOINTMENT. 

On the morning of the 3rd of March, we left Schmelen's Hope. 
The alternately rugged and sandy nature of the soil, the embar- 
rassing thorn-coppices, and the stubbornness and viciousness of 
the oxen, rendered our progress at first very slow and tedious. 

On the fifth day, we arrived at a splendid vley, called Kotji- 
amkombe. From the branches of the trees and bushes which 
lined the sides of this piece of water, were suspended innumer- 
able graceful and fanciful nests of the well-known weaver-bird 
species. The rank grasses and reeds afforded shelter to a great 
variety of water-fowl, some of which were gorgeously plumaged. 
Here we found Kahichene waiting to receive us ; he had already 
announced his intention to visit us, and, in order to propitiate 
our favor, had, a few days previously, forwarded us a present of 
several head of cattle. The chief was accompanied by about 
forty of his people, who, taking them as a whole, were the 
finest body of men I have ever seen before or since. Yet they 
were all arrant knaves. Kahichene told them as much in our 
presence ; but, strange to say, they were not in the least 
abashed. 

This tribe had, at one time, been the richest, the most nu- 
merous, and the most powerful in the country; but what with 



KAHICHENE. Ill 

their own civil broils, and the exterminating wars with the 
Namaquas, they had gradually dwindled to about twenty-five 
villages, with, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand head of horned 
cattle. 1 

Notwithstanding Kahichene, in former days, had committed 
many depredations against his neighbors, we could not help lik- 
ing him. In a very short time, he had thoroughly ingratiated 
himself in our favor. Indeed, he was the only Damara, whether 
high or low, for whom we entertained any regard. Perhaps, 
also, his late misfortunes had insured our sympathy. With the 
missionaries, Kahichene had always been a great favorite, and 
they looked upon him as the stepping-stone to the future civil- 
ization of Damara-land ; but we have already seen how far this 
was realized. 

Kahichene was somewhat advanced in years ; but his deport- 
ment was dignified and courteous. He was, moreover, truthful 
and courageous — rare virtues amongst his countrymen. It 
would have been well had the rest of the nation at all resembled 
this chief. 

Kahichene was, at this period, at variance with a very war- 
like and powerful tribe of Damaras, under the rule of Omugunde, 
or rather his son, whom he represented as a man degraded by 
every vice, and particularly inimical towards strangers. Wo of 
course made due allowances, as our friend was speaking of his 
mortal enemy ; but the account so terrified our men, that three 
of them begged to be dismissed, and they could only be per- 
suaded to discontinue their solicitation by our promising them 
not to pass through the territory of the hostile chief. 

On one occasion, some cattle, belonging to Mr. Hahn, had 
been stolen by a party of Omugunde's men. Remonstrances be- 
ing made, they were, after a time, returned, but minus their 
tails, which were cut off by the natives, and kept by them as 
" trophies." 

In conflict with Omugunde, several of Kahichene's children had 
been killed, and one or two had unfortunately fallen alive into the 
hands of the enemy. These were kept as prisoners. Only one 
stripling was now left to solace Kahichene in his old age. He 
informed us that he had made up his mind to try to recover his 
offspring and his property, or to die in the attempt. At first, 
he appeared anxious for our assistance ; but, on mature consider- 
ation, he generously refused any interference on our part in 



1 Previously to my leaving Africa, ] learnt that the entire tribe had been 
broken up. 



112 SUMMARY JUSTICE. 

his behalf. " For," said he, " when once the war begins, there 
is no saying when or where it will end. The whole country- 
will be in an uproar ; much blood will be shed ; and it would 
involve you in endless difficulties and dangers." He, moreover, 
strongly endeavored to persuade us from proceeding northwards 
at all ; but, in that matter, he, of course, failed. 

We had only been a short time at Kotjiamkombe, when it 
was discovered that four of our best draught-oxen were stolen 
by some stranger Damaras. On being informed of this theft, 
Kahichene became exceedingly annoyed, and even distressed, as 
he considered us under his special protection. He immediately 
dispatched men on their tracks, with strict orders to recover the 
oxen, and, if possible, to bring back the thieves. They suc- 
ceeded in recapturing all the beasts but one, which the natives 
had slain and eaten. With regard to the fate of the rogues, we 
could never ascertain anything with certainty. We were, how- 
ever, strongly inclined to think they were all killed — the more 
so, as Kahichene himself told us, that in case of their capture, 
they ought to be punished with death, and coolly suggested 
hanging as the most eligible way of ridding the world of such 
scoundrels. We, of course, took the liberty to remonstrate 
with the chief upon the severity of this measure ; but with lit- 
tle or no effect. Indeed, one man was accidentally found, at a 
distance from our camp, in a horribly mangled state ; and, on 
being brought to us, he stated, that he himself, together with 
several of his friends, were driving away the cattle, when they 
were overtaken by Kahichene's men, who immediately attacked 
them with their kieries, and only left them when they thought 
life was extinct. He had, however, partially recovered, but 
was completely naked, having, as is usual on similar occasions, 
been stripped of every article of dress. The exterior of his 
body was nearly covered with blood. The head was almost 
double its natural size ; indeed, it resembled rather a lump of 
mashed flesh ; no particular feature could be distinguished, and 
his eyes were effectually hidden from view. The sight alto- 
gether was hideous. 

Instead of proceeding due north, as was originally proposed, 
it was found necessary, in order to avoid Omugunde, to make a 
considerable detour to the westward. As Kahichene, with his 
tribe, was encamped in that direction, he invited us to take his 
werft by the way, to which we cordially assented. On the day 
of our departure from Kotjiamkombe. the chief led the way. A 
branch of a particular kind of wood (having a small, red, bitter 
berry, not unlike that of the mountain-ash) was trailed before 



CARCASSES OF ANIMALS PUBLIC PROPERTY. 113 

him — a superstitious act thought to be essential in insuring 
success during the pending attack against his mortal enemy. 

Before reaching the chiefs kraal, we passed the foot of a very 
conspicuous mountain, called Ombotodthu. This elevation is 
remarkable for its peculiar red stone, which is eagerly sought 
after by the natives. Having reduced it to powder they mix it 
with fat, when it is used as an ointment. I was at first struck 
by its great resemblance to quicksilver ore, and was led to believe 
that we had really discovered a mine of that valuable mineral. 
However, on considering the harmless effect it had on the na- 
tives, and that, had it been quicksilver, its use would have pro- 
duced an opposite result, I came to the conclusion that it was 
simply oxide of iron, which has since been confirmed by analyza- 
tion. 

On arriving at Kahichene's werft, we were well received by 
our host and his tribe, from whom we obtained by barter a few 
head of cattle. Indeed, we might here have sold all our articles 
of exchange to great advantage ; but this was not thought ad- 
visable, as in case of the cattle being lost or stolen, we should 
have been in a state of complete destitution. Could we, how- 
ever, have foreseen the future, our tactics would have been differ- 
ent ; for, as it afterwards turned out, this was almost the last 
opportunity we had of providing ourselves with live-stock. 

By a strange chance, I accidently became the owner of a per- 
cussion rifle, which had at one time belonged to Hans, but who, 
years previously, had disposed of it to a Damara. The- latter, 
however, finding that he could not obtain a regular supply of 
caps, offered to exchange it for a common flint-lock musket. 
The rifle was a very indifferent and clumsy-looking concern, and 
had, if I remember rightly, been manufactured by Powell, of 
London. In justice to the maker, however, I must confess that 
a man could not possibly wish for a better. Whilst in my pos- 
session, many hundred head of large game, to say nothing of a 
host of bustards, geese, ducks, guinea-fowl, etc., fell to this 
piece. 

Game was abundant in the neighborhood of Kahichene's 
kraal, and Hans made several successful shots. Very little, 
however, of what was killed reached us ; for the portion not 
immediately appropriated by the Damaras, ultimately found 
its way to them through the medium of our native servants. 
In Damara-land, the carcasses of all animals — whether wild 
or domesticated — are considered public property ; therefore, 
unless the natives should share their allowances with every 
stranger that might choose to intrude himself into their com- 



114 PRPARING AND EATING MEAT. 

pany, a withering " curse" is supposed to befall them. I have 
seen the flesh of four zebras, that had been shot by our party, 
brought to the camp in a single day, and the next morning we 
could not obtain a steak for our breakfast. 

The Damaras are the most voracious and improvident crea- 
tures in the world. When they have flesh they gorge upon it 
night and day, and in the most disgusting manner, until not a 
particle is left ; and as a consequence, they not unfrequently 
starve for several days together. But they are so accustomed 
to this mode of living, that it has no injurious effect on them. 

In this hot climate, unless preventives of some kind were 
adopted, flesh would, of course, soon become tainted ; and as 
salt, from the difficulty of conveyance, is exceedingly scarce 
in Damara-land, the following expedient is adopted. As soon 
as the animal is killed, lumps are indiscriminately cut from the 
carcass ; a knife is plunged into an edge of one of these lumps, 
and passed round in a spiral manner, till it arrives at the mid- 
dle, when a string of meat, often ten to twenty feet long, is pro- 
duced, which is then suspended like festoons, to the branches 
of the surrounding trees. By cutting the flesh very thin, it 
soon dries, and may in that state be carried about any length of 
time. There is considerable waste in this process, as fully one- 
third of the meat thus jerked is lost. On such occasions, the 
natives take care not to forget their own stomachs. Besides 
large pots filled with the most delicate morsels, immense coils 
may be seen frizzling on the coals, in every direction. When 
half-roasted, they seize one end with their hands, and, apply- 
ing it to their mouth, they tug away voraciously, not being 
over particular as to mastication. In this way they soon manage 
to get through a yard or two, the place of pepper and salt being 
supplied by ashes attached to the flesh, which ashes are more- 
over found to be an excellent remedy against bad digestion. 

I frequently abserved the daughter of Kahichene's favorite 
wife sprinkling water over the large oxen as they returned to 
the werft about noon to quench their thirst. On such occasions 
she made use of a small branch of some kind of berry-tree, such 
as that which Kahichene caused to be trailed after him when 
wishing to be successful in his attack on Omugunde. In this 
instance (as they somewhat poetically expressed themselves) the 
aspersion was supposed, should the cattle be stolen, to have the 
power of scattering them like drops of water, in order to confuse 
their pursuers, and to facilitate their return to the owners. 

On the ISth of March we were again en route. It was with 
regret that we parted with our friendly and hospitable host. 



A NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL. 115 

Poor Kahichene we were doomed never to meet again ! A few 
months after our departure he made an attack on Omugunde ; 
but at the very commencement of the fight, and when every- 
thing promised success, his dastardly followers (as he always 
had predicted) left him. But too proud himself to fly, he fell, 
mortally wounded, pierced with a shower of arrows. 

Being in advance of the wagons, I suddenly came upon an 
animal, which, though considerably smaller, much resembled a 
lion in appearance. Under ordinary circumstances, I should 
certainly have taken it for a young lion ; but I had been for- 
merly given to understand that, in this part of Africa, there exists 
a quadruped which, in regard to shape and color, is like the 
lion, but, in most other respects, totally distinct from it. The 
beast in question is said to be nocturnal in its habits, to be timid 
and harmless, and to prey for the most part on the small species 
of antelopes. In the native language it is called Onguirira, and 
would, as far as I could see, have answered the description of a 
puma. As it was going straight away from me, I did not think 
it prudent to fire. 

Immense quantities of game were now observed ; but the 
country was open, and ill-adapted for stalking ; and, having no 
horses, it was difficult to get within range. A few springboks, 
however, were killed. I also shot a hartebeest; but, having 
been obliged to leave it for about an hour, I found, on my return, 
that it had been entirely devoured by vultures ; but as they 
could not manage to eat the bones, our men consoled themselves 
by sucking them. The flesh of the hartebeest is considered ex- 
tremely palatable. 

The next day we rounded the cones of Omatako, but to my 
great astonishment, the river of that name, although running 
breast high on my visit to it, about a fortnight previously, was 
now perfectly dry. Fortunately, a pool still remained on its 
left bank. 

The estimate of the Damaras as to the distance between the 
mountains Omatako and Omuvereoom, of which mention was 
recently made, was now reduced from ten to three long days' 
journey. These men still said that the intervening country 
was destitute of water. We dared no longer trust to their con- 
flicting and unsatisfactory accounts ; but, in order to enable us 
to judge, in a measure, for ourselves, Galton rode to the neigh- 
boring mountain, Eshuameno, whence, from its advanced and 
isolated position, a good view of the country was likely to be 
obtained. After the absence of a day and a night, he returned 
with favorable news. By means of a rough triangulation, he 



116 THE AUTHOR LOSES HIS WAY. 

had ascertained that Omuvereoom could not possibly be distant 
above twelve or fourteen hours' traveling. To the north and 
west of Omuvereoom, the country appeared as one unbounded 
plain, only covered by brushwood. Eastward, grass and trees 
weve abundant. This, together with a timely fall of rain, at 
once determined us to make the attempt. 

On the morning of our departure, a bitterly cold wind swept 
over the dreary wastes, and suddenly reminded us of the ap- 
proach of the winter season. Hitherto a shirt and a pair of 
trowsers had been enough to protect our bodies, but this day 
an addition of thick flannel and a warm pea-jacket were found 
to be insufficient. 

One evening, as Hans and myself were giving chase to a troop 
of giraffes, we were overtaken by darkness, and, in the heat of 
pursuit, had completely lost our way. Hans being the most 
experienced of the two, I blindly abandoned myself to his in- 
stinct and guidance. After a while, however, it struck me we 
were actually retracing our steps to Omatako, and I told him 
so, but he only laughed at my apprehensions. Still, the more 
I considered the matter, the more I became convinced that we 
were pursuing a wrong course. In order, therefore, to split the 
difference, I proposed to Hans that if in about an hour he did 
not find an) r indications of our whereabouts, he should permit 
me to act as " pilot" for the same space of time ; and that if I 
were equally unsuccessful as himself we should quietly wait for 
the return of daylight. Hans was skeptical, and, shaking his head, 
grudgingly gave his consent. His hour having elapsed without 
gaining the object of our search, I wheeled right round to his 
great disapproval, and walked as hard as I could in an exactly 
opposite direction. Singularly enough, only two or three min- 
utes were wanting in completing my hour, when I was sud- 
denly and agreeably surprised to find my foot in the deep track 
made by the wheels of the wagons. Nothing could have been 
more fortunate, for I struck it precisely at a right angle. An- 
other half-an-hour's walk brought us safe to our bivouac, where, 
over a substantial dinner, we joked Hans on his singular obsti- 
nacy. His pride as a skillful woodsman had received a severe 
blow ; and he would, at intervals, shrug his shoulder and repeat 
broken sentences of" Well, I am sure! It's too bad !" and so 
forth. 

The day after this little adventure, we continued our journey ; 
and, in the afternoon, found ourselves safe at the foot of the 
southern extremity of Omuvereoom, and its sister hill, la 
Kabaka, from which it is only separated by a narrow valley. 



THE "WAIT-A-BIT" THORN. 117 

We " outspanned" at a small vley, where, for the first time, I 
observed the willow tree — an agreeable reminiscence of my 
native land. The water, however, was of the most abominable 
quality, being apparently much frequented by wild animals, 
who had converted the pool into something like what we see in 
a farm-yard. 

At this place we had a striking instance of the fearful ravages 
which termites are capable of committing in an incredible short 
time. In the early part of the day, after our arrival, Mr. Gal- 
ton and Hans started, on foot, with the intention of ascending 
Omuvereoom. In consequence of a sudden and distressing pain 
in my side, I was unable to accompany them, and, in the hope 
of obtaining a little ease, made a sort of extempore couch on 
the ground, covering it with a plaid. On rising after a while, I 
discovered, to my dismay and astonishment, that my bedding 
had been completely cut to pieces by the destructive insects ; 
and yet, when I first laid down, not one was visible. 

Early the next morning, we pushed on to a large vley, 
upwards of a mile in length, the finest sheet of standing water 
we had yet seen in Damara-land. It was swarming with geese 
and ducks. The vegetation had a very tropical appearance ; 
several— to us — new trees and plants, without thorns, presented 
themselves, and we began to flatter ourselves that we had at 
last passed the boundary-line of those thorny woods, which had 
so long and pertinaciously harassed us. In this, however, we 
were disappointed. The very next day we entered a region far 
worse than any we had yet seen, which, indeed, bade fair to 
stop us altogether. Our poor cattle were cruelly lacerated, and 
it was with the utmost difficulty we succeeded in getting the 
wagons through. I counted no less than seven distinct species 
of thorny trees and bushes, each of which was a perfect 
" Wacht-een-bigte," or " Wait a little," as the Dutch colonists 
very properly call these tormentors. Few individuals have ever 
traveled in the more northerly parts of Southern Africa, without 
being greeted with a friendly salutation of, " Stop a little, if 
you please ;" and fewer still, who have disregarded this gentle 
hint, ever came away without first paying a forfeit of some part 
or other of their dress. Indeed, the fish-hook principle on 
which most of the thorns are shaped, and the strength of each, 
make them most formidable enemies. At an average, each 
prickle will sustain a weight of seven pounds. Now, if the 
reader will be pleased to conceive a few scores of these to lay 
hold of a man at once, I think it will not be difficult to imagine 
the consequences. Indeed, on our return to Barmen, after a 



118 REMAINS OF DAMARA VILLAGES. 

few months' absence I possessed hardly a decent article of cloth- 
ing ; and had not Mr. Hahn kindly taken pity on my forlorn 
condition, I am afraid there would soon have been little differ- 
ence between me and the savages. 

In the course of the day, we arrived at a magnificent foun- 
tain, called Otjironjuba — the Calabash — on the side of Omu- 
vereoom. Its source was situated fully two hundred feet above 
the base of the mountain, and took its rise from different spots ; 
but, soon uniting, the stream danced merrily down the cliffs. 
These cascades, falling to the plain below, flowed over a bed of 
red gravel. A gigantic fig-tree had entwined its roots round 
the scattered blocks of stone by the side of Otjironjuba foun- 
tain, its wide and shady branches affording a delicious retreat 
during the heat of the noon-da) 7, sun. It bore an abundance of 
fruit ; but it was not yet the season for figs. Several half-ripe 
ones that I opened contained a large quantity of small ants, and 
even wasps. Great caution, therefore, is necessary in eating 
them. 

Otjironjuba was, to us, a perfect paradise. We enjoyed it 
the more on account of the marked contrast it presented to the 
country we had previously traversed. 

At the foot of the mountain, we discovered the remains of a 
large Hill-Damara kraal. A considerable extent of land had at 
one time been carefully cultivated, and a few young calabashes 
and pumpkins were still seen springing up from the parent 
stock of the preceding season. The day after our arrival one 
or two natives came to visit us, and no doubt, also, for the pur- 
pose of ascertaining who and what we were. We, of course, 
entertained them well ; and, at parting, gave them a few 
trifling presents, with a request that they would soon return 
with the remainder of their tribe, in order that we might buy 
from them some goats, which, from the surrounding evidences, 
they must have possessed in great numbers. The fresh tracks 
of a few horned cattle were also to be seen. However, our 
friends never came back, nor did we encounter any more of the 
natives. 

Whilst sauntering about the place, we stumbled upon several 
deserted Damara villages ; and our native servants now told us 
that, after the late attack on Schmelen's Hope by Jonker, 
Kahichene and his tribe had fled with the remainder of their 
cattle to this secluded spot ; and yet, a short time previously 
they had positively asserted that the country was impassable 
for man and beast ! They, moreover, informed us that several 
bloody fights, or rather massacres, had at that time taken place 



THE BUSHMEN. 119 

between the contending parties ; and that, whenever a man, 
woman, or child was met, and the deed could be perpetrated 
with impunity, they were cruelly murdered. These sanguinary 
outrages were sometimes inflicted, they said, by the Damaras, 
and at others by the Hill-Damaras. 

I climbed to the top of the Omuvereoom, whence I had a 
very extensive view of the country to the eastward; but, 
excepting a few periodical water-courses which originated in 
the sides of the mountain, nothing but an immense unbroken 
bush was to be seen. It was in vain that I strained my eyes to 
catch a glimpse of Omanbonde, which we were told lay only 
about five days' journey hence, and at the northern extremity 
of Omuvereoom. 

Elephants occasionally visited this neighborhood, and even 
breed near a fountain somewhat further to the northward. 

After having spent a couple of days very pleasantly at 
Otjironjuba fountain, we for a short time followed the course 
of the rivulet which has its rise there ; but it was soon lost in 
a marsh. 

On the second day of our departure, we came, unobserved, 
upon a few Bushmen, engaged in digging for wild roots, and 
succeeded in capturing a man and woman, whom, with some 
difficulty, we persuaded to show us the water. The dialect of 
these people was so different to any we had yet heard, that, 
notwithstanding our two excellent interpreters, we could with 
difficulty understand them. However, by a good deal of cross- 
questioning, we managed to make out that they had both been 
to Omanbonde, which they called Saresab ; that the " water was 
as large as the sky," and that hippopotami existed there. The 
man, moreover, said, that he would conduct us to the lake; but 
this was only a ruse, for, in the course of the night, both he and 
his wife absconded. 

Our doubts and anxiety increased as we approached nearer 
and nearer the inland sea, and all our thoughts were concen- 
trated in the single idea of the lake. The Bushman's story, of 
the water being " as large as the sky," wrought greatly on our 
expectation. 

" Well, Andersson, what should you suppose this lake's great- 
est length to be, eh?" said Oalton. "Surely it cannot cover 
less than fifteen miles anyhow; and as for its breadth, it is no 
doubt, very considerable, for the Hottentots declare that, if you 
look at a man from the opposite shore, he appears no bigger 
than a crow." 

It would have been well for us had we been less sanguine. 



120 TRAVERSING PRIMEVAL FORESTS. 

As we journeyed on a course somewhat parallel with Omu- 
vereoom, we fell in with a sort of vley river — if river it could 
be called, since it consisted alternately of dry, open spaces and 
deep gullies. Both banks of this peculiar water-course were 
hemmed in by one vast thorn-jungle, which seemed to defy the 
passage of man or beast. It was doubly fortunate, therefore, 
that we met this river, as its sides served as a good and open 
road, while a plentiful supply of water was afforded by the oc- 
casional pools. It was here, at last, that we arrived at some 
Damara villages, on the fifth day after leaving Otjironjuba. At 
first, the natives tried to run away ; but we captured a few 
women, which soon induced the men to return. These people 
had never before seen a white man ; and our sudden appearance, 
therefore, created no small astonishment, not to say conster- 
nation. But of all our property, nothing amused them more 
than the sight of a looking-glass. On finding that the mirror faith- 
fully reflected the smallest of their motions or gesticulations, 
they became convulsed with laughter ; and some of them were 
so excited, as to throw themselves on the ground, pressing their 
hands against their stomachs. Others would approach with 
their faces to the glass, as close as they could, then suddenly 
turn it round, fully expecting somebody at its back. It is a 
great pity that the Damaras are such unmitigated scoundrels, for 
they are full of fun and merriment. Give them a " yard of 
meat," and a bucket of water, and they are the happiest crea- 
tures on the face of the earth. 

After some parleying, a man agreed to guide us to the lake. 
An afternoon's further traveling brought us to a second werft, 
the captain of which was the jolliest and the most amusing 
Damara that we ever saw before or since. He mimicked the 
figure and the actions of the hippopotamus so admirably, that 
we should never have mistaken the animal, even had we not 
known a word of the language. He also gave us an amusing 
and laughable account of the people to the north. 

One day more, and the goal of our hopes and anxieties would 
be realized ! We carefully examined our mackintosh punt to 
see that it was sound, as we fully purposed to spend a few weeks 
on the shores of Omanbonde, in order to enjoy some fishing and 
shooting. 

By this time, we had lost sight of Omuvereoom, which gradu- 
ally dwindled into a mere sand-ridge, and was now identified 
with the plain. The vley river, just mentioned, which had so 
long befriended us, we also left behind, and were now traveling 
across a very sandy tract of country. Fortunately, though the 



OMANBOSDE, 121 

bushes were very thick, only a few were thorny. Moreover, 
their wood, which was quite new to us, was of so brittle a 
nature that, although trees from five to six inches in diameter 
repeatedly obstructed our path, our ponderous vehicles crushed 
them to the ground like so many rotten sticks. An European 
can form no conception of the impracticable country one has to 
travel over in these parts, and the immense difficulties that must 
be surmounted. To give a faint idea of the obstructions of this 
kind of traveling, we will suppose a person suddenly placed at 
the entrance of a primaeval forest of unknown extent, never trod- 
den by the foot of man, the haunt of savage beasts, and with 
soil as yielding as that of an English sand-clown ; to this must 
be added a couple of ponderous vehicles, as large as the coal- 
vans met with in the streets of London, only a great deal stouter 
— to each of which are yoked sixteen or twenty refractory, half- 
trained oxen. Let him then be told — " Through yonder wood 
lies your road ; nothing is knqwn of it. Make your way as well as 
you can ; but, remember, your cattle will perish if they do not 
get water in the course of two or three days." 

No greater calamity could possibly befall us, than the break- 
ing of an axle-tree at a distance from water. Therefore, every 
time the wagons struck against 'a tree, or when the wheels 
mounted on a stone, several feet in height — from which they 
descended with a crash like thunder — I would pull up abruptly, 
and hold my breath till all danger was over, when a weight, 
like that of the nightmare, fell from my mind. However, in 
the course of time, we became tolerably accustomed to the 
hazards that beset us, and looked almost with indifference on 
the dangers which constantly threatened destruction to our 
conveyances. 

About noon, on the 5th of April, we were rapidly approach- 
ing Omanbonde ; but, oh, how were we disappointed ! My 
heart beat violently with excitement. The sleepy motion of the 
oxen, as they toiled through the heavy sand, being far too slow 
for my eagerness and excited imagination, I proceeded consider- 
ably in advance of the wagons, with about half-a-dozen 
Damaras, when all at once the country became open, and I 
found myself on some rising ground, gently sloping towards the 
bed of what I thought to be a dry water-course. 

"There!" suddenly exclaimed one of the natives — "there is 
Omanbonde!" 

" Omanbonde!" I echoed, almost in despair; " but where, in 
the name of heaven, is the water ?" 

I could say no more for my heart failed me, and I sat down 



122 CRUEL DISAPPOINTMENT. 

till the wagons came up; when, pointing to the dry river-bed, 
I told Galton that he saw the Lake before him. 

"Nonsense!" he replied; "it is only the end or tail of it 
which you see there." 

After having descended into the bed, we continued to travel, 
at a rapid pace, about a mile in a westerly direction, when, at 
a bend, we discovered a large patch of green reeds. At this 
sight, a momentary ray of hope brightened up every counte- 
nance ; but the next instant it vanished, for we found that the 
natives were actually searching for water amongst the rushes ! 

The truth at last dawned upon us. We were indeed at 
Omanbonde — the lake of hippopotami ! We all felt utter pros- 
tration of heart. For a long while we were unable to give 
utterance to our feelings. We first looked at the reeds before 
us, then at each other in mute dismay and astonishment. A 
dried-up vley, very little more than a mile in extent, and a patch 
of reeds, was the only reward for months of toil and anxiety. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

OMANBONDE VISITED BY HIPPOPOTAMI VEGETATION, ETC., DESCRIBED- 
GAME SOMEWHAT SCARCE COMBAT BETWEEN ELEPHANT AND RHINOCE- 
ROS ADVANCE OR RETREAT FAVORABLE REPORTS OF THE OVAMBO- 

LAND RESOLVE TO PROCEED THERE RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY 

DEPART FROM OMANBONDE AUTHOR SHOOTS A GIRAFFE SPLENDID 

MIRAGE THE FAN-PALM THE GUIDE ABSCONDS COMMOTION AMONGST 

THE NATIVES ARRIVE AT OKAMABUTI UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT HUNT 

— VEGETATION ACCIDENT TO WAGON — OBLIGED TO PROCEED ON OX- 
BACK THE PARTY GO ASTRAY BABOON FOUNTAIN MEETING WITH 

THE OVAMBO ; THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE, ETC. RETURN TO EN- 
CAMPMENT AN ELEPHANT KILLED DISCOVER A CURIOUS PLANT IM- 
MORALITY REFLECTIONS. 

Dry as the basin of Omanbonde then was, it, nevertheless, 
appeared evident that, at no distant period, it had contained a 
good deal of water. Moreover, there could be but little doubt 
as to hippopotami having also, at one time, existed there. 

On becoming better acquainted with the geography of these 
regions, we thought we were able to explain the phenomenon 
satisfactorily. Thus, for instance, from (or to ?) the deep, trough- 
shaped basin of Omanbonde leads a peculiar water-course, in an 
easterly direction, called Omuramba-'k'Omanbonde, consisting 
of a succession of immense gullies, very similar to Omanbonde 
itself. These (after being in a short time joined by the Omu- 
ramba-k'Omatako), we supposed to be connected with some 
large permanent water, abounding with hippopotami. In sea- 

1 Omuramba, in the Damara language, signifies a water-course, in the bed of 
which both grass and water are to be found. 



124 OMANBONDE VISITED BY HIPPOPOTAMI. 

sons when rains are plentiful, these troughs, or gullies, fill, and 
no doubt, retain water from one rainy period to another, which 
enables the animals to travel at their ease to Omanbonde. In- 
deed, by similar omurambas they have found their way even as 
far south asSchmelen's Hope. According to Jonker Afrikaner's 
account, a hippopotamus had taken up its abode at this place, 
but was at last killed by a sudden inundation of the Swakop. 
The carcass was washed up at the mouth of the Tjobis, where 
he saw its remains. 

On a first look at Damara-land, an inexperienced person 
would " as soon expect," as Mr. Gralton says, " a hippopotamus 
to have traveled across the great Sahara, as from Omanbonde to 
Tjobis." The fact, however, is that this country, after heavy 
rains, differs as much from its normal state as a sea-beach, when 
dry and when at spring-tide. 

Little or no rain had fallen this year at Omanbonde, and, 
consequently, it presented a very dreary and uninteresting ap- 
pearance. In its bed, however, we discovered several wells, 
which, together with numerous remains of Damara villages, 
clearly indicated that the so-called lake was, at times, largely 
resorted to by the natives. 

The vegetation remained precisely as hitherto ; but the thorn 
coppices were, if possible, thicker and more harassing. The 
monotony of the scene was somewhat relieved by clumps of 
very fine kameel-doorn trees. 

Game was rather scarce, yet I managed to bag a few red 
bucks (pallahs) and koodoos. Tracks of giraffes, rhinoceroses, 
and elephants were by no means uncommon ; but I never had 
the good fortune to fall in with any of these animals. 

Furious battles are said to take place occasionally between 
the two last-named ; and though, of course, strength in the ele- 
phant is infinitely superior to the rhinoceros, the latter, on 
account of his swiftness and sudden movements, is by no means 
a despicable antagonist. Indeed, instances are known where 
they have perished together. At Omanbonde, we were told 
that a combat of this kind occurred not long before our arrival. 
A rhinoceros, having encountered an elephant, made a furious 
dash at him, striking his long sharp horn into the belly of his 
antagonist, with such force as to be unable to extricate 
himself; and, in his full, the elephant crushed his assailant to 
death. 

In sauntering one day about the neighborhood of Omanbonde, 
Gralton suddenly found himself confronted by a lion, which 
seems greatly to have terrified him ; and he candidly tells us 



FAVORABLE REPORTS OF THE OVAMBO. 125 

that, being only armed with a small rifle, he would " much 
rather have viewed him at a telescopic distance." 

As soon as we had somewhat recovered from our bitter disap- 
pointment, we began seriously to consider our situation, and to 
consult on our future plans. Once more we were without a 
definite object. Should we return, or push boldly forward ? 
At one time my friend entertained thoughts of going no farther; 
in which case, though it was probable we might reach home in 
safety, it was very certain we should reap but little credit for 
what had been done. On the other hand, by continuing to 
travel northwards, we exposed ourselves to much risk and danger. 
From experience, we were aware that, to accomplish even a 
comparatively short distance, in our very slow mode* of travel- 
ing, months would elapse. In that time, all the pools and vleys 
which now contained water would probably be dried up. This 
would be certain destruction to ourselves and cattle. Besides 
this, our men were disheartened, and wished to return. How- 
ever, in that respect there would be less difficulty, as they were 
now nearly as much dependent on us as we on them ; inasmuch 
as a broad tract of wild, inhospitable country separated us from 
the nearest point of civilization. 

From Jonker Afrikaner, and various other sources of informa- 
tion, we had already learnt that, at a considerable distance to 
the north, there lived a nation called Ovambo, who had much 
intercourse with the Damaras, with whom they bartered cattle 
for iron-ware. They were a people, moreover, of agricultural 
habits, having permanent dwellings, and were reported to be 
industrious and strictly honest. The Damaras spoke in raptures 
of their hospitality and friendliness towards strangers ; and 
represented them as a very numerous and powerful nation, 
ruled by a single chief or king, named Nangoro, who, to their 
notions, was a perfect giant in size. With regard to the distance 
to this country, they gave us the same wild, conflicting, and 
unsatisfactory accounts as those we received about the posi- 
tion of Omanbonde. A variety of circumstances at last induced 
us, let the consequence be whatever it might, to attempt to 
reach this interesting land. 

As, however, no reliance could possibly be placed on the 
accounts of the natives with regard to water, character of the 
country, and so forth, it was deemed advisable, before moving 
from our present encampment, to make a short exploratory 
excursion, in order to see and judge for ourselves. 

Mr. Galton, accompanied by a few of the men, therefore, rode 
northward, in order to ascertain if the route we purposed taking 



126 CAMELEOPARDS. 

was traversable with wagons. On the evening of the third day 
he returned, being assured of its practicability. He had met 
with several native villages ; and, though his reception there 
had by no means been very flattering, we determined to proceed 
without a moment's delay. 

None of the Damaras whom we had brought with us from 
Barmen professed to know anything of the country we were 
about to explore. The guide, however, whom we had procured 
a short distance south of Omanbonde, said that he was well 
acquainted with it, and volunteered to show us the way to the 
Ovambo, provided his services should be rewarded with a cow- 
calf. Mr. Galton gladly agreed to his terms ; but, unfortunate- 
ly, as the event proved, paid him his wages in advance. 

Early in the morning of the#L2th of April, we bade farewell 
to the inhospitable shores of Omanbonde. For a few hours we 
kept parallel with the Omuramba, when we struck into a more 
easterly course. 

During the day, we saw vast troops of cameleopards ; and, 
just at night-fall, I had the good fortune to kill a fine, full-grown 
male, which was an acceptable addition to our larder. Before 
the carcass had time to cool, twenty or thirty men were busy 
in tearing it to pieces. As usual on such occasions, the Dama- 
ras dispensed with sleep, and devoted the night entirely to the 
enjoyment of the banquet. 

The next morning, we witnessed a magnificent mirage — 
lakes, forests, hills, etc., burst on the eye, and disappeared in 
rapid succession. 

Later in the day, we were gratified by the sight of a large 
number of palm-trees. This harbinger of a better land was an 
agreeable surprise, bringing an involuntary smile of satisfaction 
to every face. We were astonished at the cheerful and refresh- 
ing effect a very slight improvement in the landscape had on 
our spirits. In the distance, these palms seemed, to us, to form 
an extensive and compact wood ; but, on nearer approach, we 
found the trees grew at long intervals from each other. They 
were very tall and graceful, each branch having the appearance 
of a beautiful fan ; and, when gently waved by the wind, the 
effect produced was indescribably pleasing. 

This species of palm is, I believe, new to science. 1 It pro- 
duces fruit about the size of an apple, of a deep-brown color, 

1 On his return to England, Mr. Galton presented the Kew Gardens with speci- 
mens of the fruit, but, I am told, that every eifort to raise plants from it proved 
abortive. 



FAN-PALM 



127 




FAN-PALM. 1 

with a kernel as hard as a stone, and not unlike vegetable-ivory. 
The fruit is said to have a bitter taste ; but, further north 
(where, as will be presently seen, we found the tree very plen- 
tiful), it was very palatable. On account of the great height, 
and straightness of the trunk, the fruit was very difficult of 
access. The story our guide told us previously to leaving Bar- 
men, about a tree, the fruit of which was attainable only by 
means of " knob-kieries thrown up at it," was not easily com- 
prehended. But we experienced greater difficulty in realizing 
his other tales — such as the existence of a people who make 



1 The beautiful drawing from which the above woodcut is taken, was kindly 
placed at my disposal by my esteemed and accomplished friend, Major Garden. It 
represents the species of fan-palm, or vegetable-ivory palm, found about Natal, 
and seems in general appearance to correspond with the kind observed by our- 
selves. In size, however, it is very inferior ; for, according to the Major's estimate, 
it does not much exceed fifteen feet in height, whilst the tree of the parts of which 
I am now speaking, not unfrequently attains to the altitude of from thirty to fifty 
feet, and even more. 



128 THE GUIDE ABSCONDS. 

trees their dwellings ; whilst others were found without joints 
to their limbs, who, nevertheless, were able to indulge in the 
refined custom of feeding each other by means of their toes. 

In the afternoon of this day, we reached a Damara village, 
which had already been visited by Mr. Gal ton, and camped near 
to it. Previously to our arrival here, our guide absconded, 
taking with him, besides the calf my friend had given him as 
payment, a horse-rug, which he had from Timboo. 

The next morning, just as I was returning to the village from 
a successful hunt, I observed an unusual commotion amongst 
the natives, accompanied by the most terrific yelling, passionate 
vociferations, and brandishing of assegais. The cause of this 
uproar was at first thought to be an attack by the Bushmen on 
one of the cattle-posts of the Damaras. However, on investi- 
gating the matter more closely, we ascertained that the appre- 
hensions of the Damaras arose from the arrival of some inhabit- 
ants of a neighboring kraal, who had come forcibly to recover 
a flock of sheep, which the chief had taken possession of under 
the pretext of " hunger." 

The news of our arrival had, by this time, spread far and 
wide; and the Damaras were flocking together from all parts 
to see the white strangers. Some of them promised to conduct 
us to their great chief, Tjopopa, who resided at a place called 
Okamabuti, which was on our way to the Ovambo. 

In the course of our journey to Tjopopa, I learnt the history 
of the father of one of our visitors, who, it would appear, had 
been a thorough rogue. He professed great friendship towards 
the Ovambo, whom he allowed freely and peaceably to pass 
through his territory ; but when, on one occasion, the}'' were 
returning home with a numerous herd of cattle, obtained by 
barter, he fell suddenly upon them, and deprived them of all their 
hard-earned gains. When, however, his treacherous conduct 
became known to Nangoro, he instantly dispatched a party in 
order to punish him, and this was done so effectually that, since 
that day, no one has ventured to molest the Ovambo in their 
peaceable and industrious vocation. Indeed, this tribe now 
commanded a large share of the good-will and respect of the 
Damaras. 

Elephants were said to be numerous to the northward, 
and the Damaras pointed to some wooded knolls, where they 
said these animals walked " as thick as cattle." At times, they 
would suddenly make their appearance in the night in the midst 
of a village, and drive the inhabitants precipitately from their 
dwellings. 



ARRIVAL AT TJOPOPA's WERFT. 129 

On the 15th of April, we were again moving ; and the very- 
next day we entirely lost sight of the palms, which we did 
not again see till nearly a whole month's travel had been accom- 
plished. 

On the 17th we reached Tjopopa's werft. It was reported 
that through the instrumentality of his friend, Nangoro, this 
man became a chief of the first order. Be that as it may, he 
was now living in very great abundance, though, like many who 
are well off with regard to worldly possessions, he was avarici- 
ous in the extreme. A miser's parsimony always increases in 
proportion to the enlargement of his property. 

Okamabuti may be said to be the northern limit of Damara- 
land. It is situated at the foot of those wooded knolls, already 
pointed out to us by the natives as the resort of elephants ; 
indeed, the ground round about bore ample testimony to the 
destructive propensities of these animals. The place was well 
supplied with water by a fountain, springing from a limestone 
bottom. 

The morning after our arrival at Okamabuti, we started off 
on a shooting excursion, in a northeast direction, in search of 
elephants ; but though we discovered their fresh tracks, and 
followed these for a whole day, we were unable to overtake the 
beasts. Notwithstanding our failure, we enjoyed the trip 
extremely. The scenery was novel and highly interesting. At 
times, we crossed savannahs, where the grass reached above our 
heads as we sat on the oxen ; and, at others, we passed through 
magnificent forests of straight-stemmed and dark-foliaged 
timber trees, 1 fit abodes for the most wonderful creatures of ani- 
mated nature. 

A day or two afterwards, a calamity befell us, which we had 
long dreaded. In order to be near the elephants, that we might 
hunt them at our leisure, we had determined to move our camp 
to a fountain a few hours further to the northeast, that was 
much frequented by these animals. On the morning of our de- 
parture, however, before we had proceeded many hundred 



1 These trees consisted chiefly of what in the Cape Colony is termed Stink-hout 
or stink-wood. It derives its peculiar name from an offensive odor that it ex- 
hales, and which it retains until thoroughly seasoned. In the grain and the 
shading it somewhat resembles walnut, but in external appearance approaches 
the oak. Indeed, if I am not mistaken, botanists have described it as querents 
Africana, in which case I believe it to be the only species of that kind known to 
be indigenous to the African continent. I am told it is by far the best wood in 
Southern Africa, and seems well adapted for various purposes, such as wagons, 
gun-stocks, ship-building, etc. 
9 



130 ACCIDENT TO WAGON. 

paces, our largest wagon came in contact with a stump of a 
tree, which entirely demolished the foremost axle-tree. Unfor- 
tunate as this circumstance could not fail to be, we had, never- 
theless, every reason to feel thankful it occurred where it did. 
The natives, hereabout, had shown themselves well-disposed 
towards us. Water and pasturage were abundant ; and even 
suitable wood for repairing the damage was to be found in the 
immediate neighborhood. 

A few days would, perhaps, have sufficed to make a tempo- 
rary repair; but, as we had a journey of several months' dura- 
tion before us, it was necessary to make the work as permanent 
as possible, and the seasoning of the wood, alone, in such a 
case, would occupy several weeks. None of us had much expe- 
rience in carpentry ; but Hans was, by far, the most practical 
hand, and he boldly undertook the task. To postpone our 
journey to the Ovambo, till our wagons were in order, was 
now, indeed, out of the question. The season being advanced, 
every day became of the greatest importance ; and therefore, to 
save time, it was resolved that we should leave the vehicles be- 
hind, and that Galton and myself should prosecute the journey 
without further delay, by means of pack-and-ride oxen. 

Having come to this determination, our first care was to ob- 
tain accurate information of the distance, number of watering- 
places, and so forth ; but the Damaras proved true to their 
nature — for, after having spent several days in cross-questioning 
them, we were just as far from our object as ever. Tjopopa, 
himself, was very reserved, and would neither provide us with 
guides, nor give us the least information. He said, however, 
that he was just expecting a trading caravan, from Ovambo- 
land ; and that, if we remained with him, till its arrival, he 
doubted not that we should, by the assistance of the individuals 
composing it, be enabled to reach that country. But no reli- 
ance could be placed in a Damara. 

Whilst in this dilemma, a man unexpectedly came to offer his 
services as guide. Without, perhaps, inquiring sufficiently as 
to whether he was well-acquainted with the road, we accepted 
with eagerness the proposal, and did not lose a moment in mak- 
ing preparations for the journey. To shorten a long story, suf- 
fice it to say, that we set out ; but our guide almost immedi- 
ately lost himself; and after we had wandered about the hills for 
several days, suffering the greatest anxiety of mind, to say no- 
thing of physical privations, we were about to retrace our steps 
to Okamabuti, when we fortunately fell in with some bushmen. 
We had left both our Hottentot interpreters behind ; but we man- 



MEETING WITH THE OVAMBO. 131 

aged to explain to them our wants and wishes. With much 
persuasion, two of them agreed to accompany us to a certain 
large water in advance, of which the Damaras had made re- 
peated mention. These men desired to spend the night at their 
own werft, but we had been so often deceived, that in order to 
secure their services, we determined that only one of them 
should be allowed to absent himself. The other was to sleep 
near us; and as a further security, Galton and myself agreed 
alternately to keep watch on the fellow through the night. 

During our wanderings in the mountains, we stumbled upon 
a series of wells, which we christened " Baboon Fountain," on 
account of the number of baboons which frequented the place. 
Its real name was Otjikango. 

It was from this point that, on the morning of the 2d of May, 
we took our fresh departure under the guidance of our bushmen 
friends. We had not, however, been long on the road before 
we were overtaken by three or four men whom our Damaras at 
once recognized as natives of Ovambo-land, coming from the 
very quarter we had just left. They were part of the expected 
caravan, and I need hardly say that we were delighted at this 
opportune meeting. Contrary to custom, the men had made a 
short cut across the hills, and thus we had missed each other. 
On the Ovambos reaching our encampment, however, and find- 
ing strange tracks, and our bivouac-fire still burning, their curi- 
osity was greatly aroused, and they had detached the men whom 
we now encountered in order to bring us back. We did not 
much like the idea ; yet in hope of obtaining from them a guide, 
we acquiesced, intending presently to pursue our journey. 

The caravan was composed of twenty-three individuals, of a 
very dark complexion, tall and robust, but remarkably ugly, 
and scantily attired. Their looks bespoke determination and 
independence. On acquainting them with our object, and our 
wish to obtain a guide to conduct us to their country, they not 
only refused, but became very reserved in their manner. They 
promised, however, that if we would return with them to Tjopo- 
pa's werft, and there wait until they had disposed of their arti- 
cles of exchange, we were welcome to accompany them home. 
They assured us, moreover, that any attempt on our part to ac- 
complish the journey alone would be attended with certain 
destruction ; for, even supposing we should find the waters — 
which were few and far between — their chief, unless previously 
apprised of our approach, would never receive us. We thought 
their language bold, and at first laughed at them ; but they re- 
mained inflexible. Remonstrances were of no avail, and we 



132 THEIR HABITS. 

soon saw that they were a very different style of natives from 
those with whom we had been accustomed to deal. Moreover, 
on mature consideration, we thought it only just that they 
should know something of our character before taking us into 
the heart of their country. We accordingly made necessity a 
law, and agreed to their proposal. No sooner had we done so, 
than they threw off their reserve, and, in a very short time, we 
became the best of friends. 

Mr. Galton made them a present of some meat, which they 
greatly prized. Their sole diet, on these occasions, was appar- 
ently a kind of grain resembling Caffre-corn (holcus caffrornm), 
which they carried in small skin-bags. This grain was either 
half-boiled, simply steeped in water, or, more commonly, par- 
tially crushed, and then converted into a coarse stir-about. 
They kindly gave us a liberal supply of their homely fare, which 
we eagerly partook of, being quite tired with the everlasting 
flesh diet. Our Damaras were also treated with a dish of soaked 
corn ; but, before they were allowed to taste it, they were 
obliged to undergo the ceremony (why or wherefore I know 
not) of having a quantity of water spirted into their faces from 
the mouth of one of the Ovambo. These people invariably 
made use of salt with their food — a thing never seen amongst 
the Damaras. As soon as their plain meal was finished, pipes 




— of their own manufacture — were produced, and, after a few 
whiffs, a song was struck up. One man began to chant, and 
the whole party joined occasionally in chorus. Though some- 
what monotonous, the music was not unpleasing. 

They were armed with the bow and arrows, the assegai and 
the knob-kierie ; but the two first-named weapons were of 
smaller dimensions than those used by the Damaras. Their 
bows, moreover, were constructed from a kind of wood called 
mohama, which, in its natural state, is flat on one side, and thus, 
in a degree, of the required form. 

The arrows are generally tipped with bone or iron ; but they 
do not often poison them. They carry their quivers under the 
left arm by means of a strap across the right shoulder. In 
addition to the weapons mentioned, they have a dagger, pro- 



THEIR ARMS. 



133 




DAGGER AND SHEATH 



tected by a leather sheath tastefully ornamented with thin cop- 
per wire. 

Carpenter's work is not much practiced among the Ovambo. 
The rude hatchet here represented, is nearly the only mechanic's 
tool I remember to have seen in their possession. 




HATCHET. 



Their articles of barter were spear-heads, knives, rings, cop- 
per and iron beads, etc., but of exceedingly rude workmanship. 
Indeed, it was to me a constant wonder how they could per- 
suade their neighbors to buy such trash. Yet all these things 
were very dear ; an unfinished assegai-blade, or a yard of beads, 
being the regular price for an ox. 

Their merchandise was packed in small square baskets made 




SQUARE BASKET 



out of palm-leaves : these were suspended to both ends of the 
long, smooth, and elastic pole (of palm-wood) that each man 
bore poised on his shoulder. What with their merchandise, 
provisions, water, etc., the weight was often very considerable ; 
yet they traveled much faster than ourselves. 

They have no idea of making use of oxen for draught, or, per- 



134 DISCOVERY OF A CURIOUS PLANT. 

haps, it would be more correct to say, they value these animals 
too highly to make use of them for such purposes. 

On the 4th of May we returned to our encampment. Hans 
and Phillipus had killed an elephant during our absence, which 
highly delighted the Damaras, who had flocked to the neighbor- 
hood of Okamabuti in very great numbers. We were sorry 
to find that our cattle, instead of improving in condition by 
their rest, were fast losing flesh. This we attributed to the 
grass hereabouts, which was bitter tasted, and to change of pas- 
turage in general. The cattle of the natives were accustomed 
to every variety of herbage, and did not suffer. Sheep, how- 
ever, failed to thrive here. 

Whilst waiting for the return of the Ovambo traders, who, 
with the exception of their head man, Chikor'onkombe, had 
now dispersed over the neighborhood in small bands of two 
and three, I employed the time in diligently exploring the sur- 
rounding country, and ascertaining its natural productions, and 
was fortunate enough to add many an interesting specimen of 
insect and bird to my collection. 

The natives were unable to comprehend why I thus collected 
birds and other specimens of natural history; and on an evening, 
when I returned home, were convulsed with laughter on seeing 
the contents of my game-bag. This passion of mine (coupled 
with my name being unpronounceable) caused them to 
re-christen me " Karabontera," or the bird-killer, by which 
designation I am now universally known throughout the 
country. 

The vegetation at Okamabuti was very rank and luxuriant ; 
but the thorn-jungles still continued to haunt us. The hills 
were covered with a profusion of creepers, low shrubs, and 
aromatic herbs. The euphorbia candelabrum was particularly 
abundant. 

I discovered a peculiar plant growing on a very large succu- 
lent root, protruding about a foot above the soil. It produced 
two or three immense leaves, with a fruit so closely resembling 
grapes, that, when I first brought some bunches to our encamp- 
ment, they were mistaken for such ; but they were not eatable — 
nay, the natives pronounced them to be poisonous. 

There was also a tree, yielding an acid fruit, somewhat like 
an apple, but with a hard kernel similar to that of a plum. In 
hot weather, this fruit was very refreshing, and not unpalat- 
able. 

During our stay at Okamabuti, Tjopopa's aged mother died. 
The women of the place, according to custom, howled most 



IMMORALITY. 135 

dismally for a whole day. Great numbers of cattle were killed 
or sacrificed on this occasion. 

Tjopopa would spend whole days at our camp in the most 
absolute idleness and apathy, teasing us with begging for every- 
thing he saw. Like all Damaras, he had a perfect mania for 
tobacco, and considered no degradation too deep provided he 
could obtain a few inches of the narcotic weed. He was of an 
easy and mild disposition, but excessively stingy. "We stood 
greatly in need of live-stock, and took every opportunity to 
display our most tempting articles of barter in the hope of 
inducing him to purchase. Brass or gilt ornaments he almost 
spurned, but cast longing eyes on articles of iron or copper. 
At last he selected goods to the value of four oxen, with 
which he quietly walked off. On asking him for payment 
the following day, he smilingly replied, " Why, between us, 
there must be no talk of buying and selling. You are going to 
stop here a long time, and you will want plenty of food : this 
I will give you." 

Knowing the truth of the adage, that " a bird in the hand is 
worth two in the bush," we should infinitely have preferred an 
immediate settlement to any vague promises. And the end 
justified our apprehensions. The old rogue took good care 
neither to pay his debt, nor make us any presents of cattle, of 
which we stood so much in need. Nay, he even went further. 
Under pretext of supplying our wants, he induced his people 
to contribute oxen and sheep, which he was mean enough to 
keep for his own use. 

Our friend Tjopopa was rather a sensual man : he was sup- 
posed to have no less than twenty wives — two of whom, I 
found to my astonishment, were mother and daughter ! I have 
since ascertained that this is by no means an unusual practice 
amongst this demoralized nation. Moreover, when a chief dies, 
his surviving wives are transferred to his brother, or to his near- 
est relation. 

It is in vain that poets and philanthropists endeavor to 
persuade us that savage nations, who have had no previous 
intercourse with Europeans, are living in a state of the most 
enviable happiness and purity — where ignorance is virtuous 
simplicity — poverty, frugality, and temperance — and indolence, 
laudable contempt for wealth. One single day among such 
people will be sufficient to repudiate these idle notions. 



CHAPTER XV. 

DEPART FROM OKAMABUTI VISIT FROM A LION AMULETS REVISIT 

BABOON FOUNTAIN OTJIKOTO ; A WONDERFUL FREAK OF NATURE ; 

REMARKABLE CAVERN NATIVES UNACQUAINTED WITH THE ART OF 

SWIMMING FISH ABUNDANT IN OTJIKOTO ; FREQUENTED BY IMMENSE 

FLOCKS OF DOVES PANIC OF THE OVAMBO ON SEEING BIRDS SHOT ON 

THE WING ARRIVE AT OMUTJAMATUNDA A GREASY WELCOBIE DUCKS 

AND GROUSE NUMEROUS AUTHOR FINDS HIMSELF SOMEWHAT "OVERDONE" 

" SALT-PANS" ALL " LOOK BLUE" A SECOND PARADISE HOSPITABLE 

RECEPTION VEGETATION PEOPLE LIVE IN PATRIARCHAL STYLE POPU- 
LATION ENORMOUS HOGS ARRIVE AT THE RESIDENCE OF THE REDOUBT- 
ABLE NANGORO. 

In conversation with the Ovambo, we learnt that Nangoro's 
werft was distant at least a fortnight's steady travel. We, 
therefore, felt anxious for the speedy return of the trading parties, 
in order that we might prosecute our journey ; but they tarried 
longer than we had expected. By degrees, however, they re- 
assembled at Tjopopa's werft, having brought about two hundred 
head of cattle, the result of their trade. 

On the 22d of May, Chikor'onkombe, their leader, announced 
that everything was in readiness for a start ; and, as we ourselves 
had long been prepared, the caravan set out that very afternoon. 

We bivouacked at one of Tjopopa's cattle-posts, only a few 
hours' journey from Okamabuti, and had just finished dinner, 
when, all at once, our people rushed towards the fire with cries 
of " Ongeama ! — ongeama !" 

And so it was. A lion had, it seems, been crouched in the 
bush, within twenty paces of our camp, in readiness to spring 
on the cattle that were scattered about. But as one of the men, 



VISIT FROM A LIO N A MUIET, 137 

who was in search of fuel, had fortunately discovered him, the 
beast retreated. He was evidently much displeased at being thus 
foiled, and kept growling in the distance during the remainder 
of the night. The following morning, on meeting one of the 
Ovambo, I inquired whether they also had been troubled by the 
lion, to which he only replied by pointing to a piece of wood — 
a charm of some kind — hung round his neck, as much as to say: 
; ' Do you think that anything can hurt us, or our cattle, with 
this in our possession." 

The Damaras have also great faith in amulets, consisting gene- 
rally of the teeth of lions and hyasnas, entrails of animals, pieces 
of certain kinds of wood, and so forth. Our native servants, 
indeed, before leaving Okamabuti, had purchased for a few beads, 
several charms from Tjopopa, proof against every danger and 
calamity. 

On the 24th, we again formed ourselves at Otjikango ("Baboon 
Fountain"). By this time, our caravan was completed, as strag- 
gling parties of natives had continued to join us; and we found 
to our astonishment that, including ourselves, we mustered one 
hundred and seventy souls. Of this number were no less than 
seventy or eighty Damara women, bent on various speculations 
— some in hope of obtaining employment, some to get husbands, 
and others with a view of disposing of their shell bodices, spoken 
of in Chapter IV.. The latter, as we afterwards found, are taken 
to pieces by the Ovambo women, and worn in strings round the 
waist. In exchange, the Damaras receive beads, tobacco, corn, 
etc. 

The country between Okamabuti and Otjikango we found 
well watered with copious springs, and covered with a rank ve- 
getation. Otjikango itself being situated in a valley, between 
high and steep hills, was not unpicturesque. It was well sup- 
plied with water, which in several places oozed out of a kind of 
vley or marsh — in the rainy season, undoubtedly a little lake. 
We lost no time here, but were again on the move at an early 
hour on the succeeding morning. 

After a day and a half travel, we suddenly found ourselves on 
the brink of Otjikoto, the most extraordinary chasm it was ever 
my fortune to see. It is scooped, so to say, out of the solid 
limestone rock ; and, though on a thousand times larger scale, 
not unlike the Elv-gryta one so commonly meets in Scandinavia. 
The form of Otjikoto is cylindrical ; its diameter upwards of four 
hundred feet, and its depth, as we ascertained by the lead-line, 
two hundred and fifteen — that is at the sides, for we had no 
means of plumbing the middle, but had reason to believe the 



138 



OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN. 



depth to be pretty uniform throughout. To about thirty feet 
of the brink, it is filled with water. 1 




OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN 



Otjikoto, " one of the most wonderful of Nature's freaks," is 
situated at the northern extremity of those broken hills which 
take their rise in the neighborhood of Okamabuti, and in the 
midst of a dense coppice. So effectually is it hidden from view, 
that a person might pass within fifty paces of it without be- 
ing aware of its existence. Owing to its steep and rugged 
sides, cattle have not access to the water ; and even a man can 
only approach this enormous well by means of a steep and slip- 
pery footpath. No perceptible difference could be observed in the 
height of the water ; and the Ovambo informed us that, as long as 
they and their fathers remembered, it had always been the same. 
It is difficult to imagine how or whence Otjikoto receives its 
supplies. A spacious cavern, only visible and accessible from 
the water, may possibly be the grand reservoir. 

After gratifying our curiosity, Galton and myself, standing in 

1 Shortly before reaching " Baboon Fountain/' I should remark, that at a place 
called Orujo, we saw a cavity of a similar kind, though on an infinitely smaller scale. 
It consisted of a circular-shaped basin in the limestone rock, ninety feet in diame- 
ter by thirty in depth. As it was dry at the time, we ascertained that the bottom 
was flat, or nearly so. In various other places we also met with similar basins, 
but on a still smaller scale than Orujo. 



REMARKABLE CAVERN. 139 

need of a path, plunged head-foremost into the profound abyss. 
The natives were utterly astounded. Before reaching Otjikoto, 
they had told us, that if a man or beast was so unfortunate as 
to fall into the pool, he would inevitably perish. We attribut- 
ed this to superstitious notions ; but the mystery was now 
explained. The art of swimming was totally unknown in these 
regions. The water was very cold, and from its great depth, 
the temperature is likely to be the same throughout the year. 

We swam into the cavern to which allusion has just been 
made. The transparency of the water, which was of the deep- 
est sea-green, was remarkable ; and the effect produced in the 
watery mirror by the reflection of the crystallized walls and roof 
of the cavern appeared very striking and beautiful. In this 
mysterious spot, two owls, and a great number of bats, had 
taken up their abode. On approaching some of the latter, 
which I saw clinging to the rocks, I found, to my surprise, 
that they were dead ; and had probably been so for many years ; 
at least, they had all the appearance of mummies. 

Otjikoto contained an abundance of fish, somewhat resem- 
bling perch ; but those we caught were not much larger than 
one's finger. One day we had several scores of these little 
creatures for dinner, and very palatable they proved. 

In the morning and evening, Otjikoto was visited by an in- 
credible number of doves, some of which were most delicately 
and beautifully marked. On such occasions the wood resounded 
with their cooing ; but when disturbed, as they frequently 
were, by the invasion of a hawk, the noised caused by their 
precipitate flight was like that of a sudden rush of wind. 

Many bushmen resided near Otjikoto ; and, as everywhere 
else in these regions, they lived on excellent terms with the 
Ovambo, to whom they brought copper-ore for sale, which they 
obtained from the neighboring hills. Indeed, as our acquaint- 
ance with the Ovambo increased, we were more and more fa- 
vorably impressed with their character. They treated all men 
equally well, and even the so much-despised Hottentots ate out 
of the same dish and smoked out of the same pipe as them- 
selves. 

We only stayed a day at Otjikoto. The next morning, after 
a few hours' travel, we lost sight of all landmarks, and were 
now making our way through dense thorn-coppices, which ha- 
rassed and delayed us exceedingly. To say nothing of tearing 
our clothes to rags, they, now and then, extracted some articles 
from the saddle-bags. Of the regular Ovambo caravan-route, 
all traces had been obliterated ; and we now first began to un- 



140 A PANIC ARRIVAL AT O M U T J AM AT U N D A . 

derstand and appreciate the difficulties that would have beset 
us had we tried to prosecute the journey alone. Indeed, with- 
out the most experienced guides, it would have been an utterly 
hopeless task. The watering-places, moreover, were very few, 
and scattered over an immense extent of country, which was 
dreary in the extreme. 

Shortly after leaving Otjikoto and when walking in advance 
of the caravan, in company with several of the head men of the 
Ovambo, in the hope of procuring some specimens of natural his- 
tory, I suddenly flushed a brace of sand-grouse, both of which I 
brought to the ground. The effect produced on my compan- 
ions was ludicrous in the extreme. "They looked as if they had 
received an electric shock, and stood aghast with their mouths 
wide open. On requesting them to pick up the dead birds, 
they absolutely refused, and seemed petrified with fear. Their 
conduct was the more singular, as, on our first meeting, they 
had given us to understand that, through the Portuguese, with 
whom they had indirect intercourse, they were well-acquainted 
with fire-arms, but that they were not afraid of them, as by 
simply blowing in the muzzle, they lost all power. 

In the afternoon of the 29th of May, we reached Omutjama- 
tunda, the first cattle-post belonging to the Ovambo. On 
account of this being harvest-time, our friend, Chikor'onkombe, 
did not expect to find many of his countrymen here ; but he 
was mistaken, for it swarmed with people as well as cattle. 
The latter I estimated at no less than from three to four thou- 
sand. 

Immediately on our arrival, we were surrounded by great 
numbers of inquisitive people, who looked upon the European 
portion of our party as some rarce aves. They appeared to be 
gratified at seeing their countrymen safe home again, and ex- 
pressed much admiration at the fine herd of sleek cattle they 
had brought witli them. 

The way of welcoming friends amongst the Ovambo is some- 
what singular. In our case, after every one was seated, an im- 
mense dish of fresh butter was produced, when the head man 
of the post besmeared the face and breast of each individual 
with an abundance of the unction. The ceremony being satis- 
factorily performed on their own friends and kinsmen, it be- 
came evident that they contemplated the same agreeable opera- 
tion on ourselves. On seeing what was coming, Galton held 
out both his hands, and exclamed — " Oh ! for goodness' sake, 
if the thing is necessary, be it at least moderate !" His request 
was granted — for he escaped with a brush or two across the 



FIVE SPECIES OF GROUSE. 141 

face — but it created much jest and mirth amongst the com- 
pany. 

At Omutjamatunda, there is a most copious fountain, situated 
on some rising ground, and commanding a splendid prospect of 
the surrounding country It was a refreshing sight to stand on 
the borders of the fountain, which was luxuriously overgrown 
with towering reeds, and sweep with the eye the extensive 
plain encircling the base of the hill ; frequented as it was, not 
only by vast herds of domesticated cattle, but with the lively 
springbok and troops of striped zebras. If the monotony of 
our dreary wanderings had not thus occasionally been relieved, 
I do not know how we should have borne up against our con- 
stant trials and difficulties. 

In order to ascertain the proficiency of the Ovambo in arch- 
ery, we had shooting matches whilst at Omutjamatunda. The 
result proved that they were inferior in this respect even to the 
Damaras, who, as already said, are wretched marksmen. The 
poor despised bushmen beat both tribes out and out in the use 
of the bow, which, however, is to be expected, since they sub- 
sist, in a great measure, by the chase. 

During the two days we remained at Omutjamatunda, we 
amused ourselves with shooting ducks, and birds of the grouse 
kind. Both were abundant, but more especially the latter, 
which literally obscured the air with their numbers every 
morning and evening, when they came to quench their thirst. 
It is, however, only in the dry season — as in the present in- 
stance — that they are observed in such astonishing multitudes. 
The usually go far in search of food ; and, although a pair only 
may be seen at starting in quest of water, yet, as they draw 
nearer to the pool, they describe wide and continued circles 
over it ; and thus, by giving time for others to arrive, increase 
their numbers. 

There is a great variety amongst the grouse. Thus, for in- 
stance, in the course of a single morning, and in about half-a- 
dozen discharges, I have bagged grouse of five different species ; 
and I have procured altogether eight or nine ; but none of them 
are good eating. They chiefly live on hard, indigestible seeds, 
often of an oily substance, which gives to the meat a tough- 
ness and an unsavory flavor. They are best when made into 
pies. 

I have already mentioned that we had one morning been 
suddenly apprised of the approach of winter by an intensely 
bleak wind. Since then, the cold had gradually increased, and 
we suffered much in the night-time. Hitherto, the abund- 



142 THE AUTHOR NEARLY BURNED. 

ance of fuel we had found everywhere enabled us to keep up 
a roaring fire, which in some degree shielded us from the night 
air. At Omutjamatunda, however, dry wood was scarce, 
because the place was the permanent residence of a great num- 
ber of natives ; and, as a consequence, the cold was painfully 
disagreeable. 

The morning before leaving Omutjamatunda a curious acci- 
dent occurred to me. On lying down at night alongside a small 
fire, the air was quite calm ; but, towards morning, a strong 
and cutting wind arose. To protect myself against the chilling 
blast, I was obliged to pull the blanket over my head, and was 
thus slumbering in happy ignorance of everything. After a 
time, an agreeable sensation of warmth and comfort stole over 
me, and the most exquisite visions floated before my imagination. 
By degrees, however, this pleasant feeling was converted into 
uneasiness, and ultimately into absolute pain. I was writhing 
in agonies. By a violent effort, I roused myself out of the 
trance, and, starting to my feet, discovered that the coverlet 
was ignited. A spark had fallen on it, and being composed of 
quilted cotton, it had for a long time been slowly smouldering, 
which accounted for the agreeable feeling I had at first experi- 
enced. On the fire coming into contact with my body-linen, 
however, the lulling sensation was changed into one of torment. 
Hans had had a similar accident at Schmelen's Hope, on which 
occasion almost the whole of the skins, etc., spread beneath 
him, were consumed before he was aware of what had happen- 
ed. From that day forward, as may be supposed, I always made 
my bed far away from the fire. 

On the last day of May, we were again on the move. 
Messengers were started in advance to apprise King Nangoro 
of our approach, and to convey to him a few trifling 
presents. They would probably reach his capital in about two 
days. 

In the course of the first day's journey, we traversed an im- 
mense hollow, called Etosha, covered with saline incrustations, 
and having wooded and well-defined borders. Such places are 
in Africa designated " salt-pans." The surface consisted of a 
soft, greenish-yellow, clay soil, strewed with fragments of small 
sand-stone, of a purple tint. Strange to relate, we had scarcely 
been ten minutes on this ground, when the lower extremities 
of ourselves and cattle became of the same purple color. In 
some rainy seasons, the Ovambo informed us, the locality was 
flooded, and had all the appearance of a lake ; but now it was 
quite dry, and the soil strongly impregnated with salt. In- 



ENTER PARADISE HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. 143 

deed, close in shore, this commodity was to be had of a very 
pure quality. 

At night we bivouacked on the southern extremity of a 
boundless savannah, called Otjihako-tja-Muteya, totally desti- 
tute of trees, and even bushes. The natives were unable to 
give us an idea of its real extent ; but, as far as we could learn, 
it reached to the sea, on the west. Like Etosha, it had distinct 
and wooded borders. 

The second of June will ever be remembered by us. On the 
afternoon of that day, we first set eye on the beautiful and 
fertile plains of Ondonga — the country of the Ovambo. Vain 
would be any attempt to describe the sensations of delight and 
pleasure experienced by us, on that memorable occasion, or to 
give an idea of the enchanting panoramic scene that all at once 
opened on our view. Suffice it to say, that instead of the 
eternal jungles, where every moment we were in danger of be- 
ing dragged out of our saddles by the merciless thorns, the 
landscape now presented an apparently boundless field of yellow 
corn, dotted with numerous peaceful homesteads, and bathed 
in the soft light of a declining tropical sun. Here and there, 
moreover, arose gigantic, wide-spreading, and dark-foliaged 
timber and fruit-trees, whilst innumerable fan-like palms, either 
singly or in groups, completed the picture. To us it was a per- 
fect elysium, and well rewarded us for every former toil and 
disappointment. My friend, who had traveled far and wide, 
confessed he had never seen anything that could be compared 
to it. Often since have I conjured up to my imagination this 
scene, and have thought it might not inaptly be compared to 
stepping out of a hot, white, and shadowless road, into a park, 
fresh with verdure, and cool with the umbrage cast down by 
groups of reverend trees. 

The first dwelling that lay in our path was that of old 
Naitjo, one of the chief men of our trading caravan, who, after 
having feasted us on such fare as the country produced (amongst 
which was a dish of hot dough, steeped in melted butter), 
conducted us over his extensive establishment, comprising his 
harem, his children, granaries, and so forth. Timbo was in 
ecstasies with the country and its hospitable inhabitants, and 
declared that it was as like as two peas to his own native 
land. 

Another hour's travel brought us to the residence of our 
guide, Chikor'onkombe, where we remained two nights and a 
day to rest our weary animals. Poor creatures ! they had had 
no water for two entire days, and the consequence was that, 



144 KINDS OF GRAIN GROWN. 

during the first night, they broke out of the inclosures and 
strayed far away in search of it. 

On the 4th, we again set forward. The aspect of the country 
was still characterized by the greatest abundance, and the trees 
became even more numerous. 

Nearly all produced edible fruit, though some were not yet 
ripe. The trees, moreover, were on a grander scale than here- 
tofore. One kind in particular — that mentioned as bearing 
a fruit somewhat resembling an apple — attained to a most 
astonishing size. Indeed, the branches of one that we measured, 
spread over a space of ground one hundred and forty-four feet in 
diameter, or four hundred and thirty-two in circumference ! 

The palms growing hereabout — the stems of which, before 
they began to branch out, often rose to fifty and sixty feet — 
were, to all appearance, of the same kind as that we had seen 
about two hundred miles to the southward ; but the fruit proved 
very good. When slightly soaked in water — which, by-the-by, 
is the best way of eating it — it tasted precisely like ginger- 
bread. 

There appeared to be no roads of any description. Fortu- 
nately, however, the harvest had just been completed, or near- 
ly so ; and, without damage to the owners, we were therefore 
enabled to cross the fields as the crow flies. 

Two different kinds of grain we found indigenous to this 
country — viz., the common Caffre-corn, said to resemble the 
Egyptian " doura ;" and another sort, very small-grained, not 
unlike canary-seed, and akin, I believe, to the " badjera" of In- 
dia. This is the more nutritious of the two, and, when well- 
ground, produces excellent flour. 

The stalk of both these kinds of grain is stout — the thickness 
of a sugar-cane — some eight or nine feet high, and juicjr and 
sweet to the taste, which has no doubt given rise to a belief in 
the existence of the sugar-cane in many of the interior parts of 
Africa. When the grain is ripe, the ear is cut of, and the re- 
mainder is left to the cattle, which devour it greedily. 

Besides grain, the Ovambo cultivate calabashes, water-mel- 
ons, pumpkins, beans, peas, etc. They also plant tobacco. 
When ripe, the leaves and stalks are collected, and mashed to- 
gether in a hollow piece of wood, by means of a heavy pole. 
The tobacco is, however, of a very inferior quality; so much so, 
that our Damaras, who had a mania for the weed, refused to 
smoke it. 

There are no towns or villages in Ovambo-land, but the peo- 
ple, like the patriarchs of old, live in separate families. Each 



ANCIENT CUSTOM. 145 

homestead is situated in the middle of a corn-field, and sur- 
rounded by high and stout palisades. The natives were obliged 
to take this precaution in order to guard against the sudden at- 
tacks of a neighboring hostile tribe, which kept constantly ha- 
rassing them. Once or twice the Ovambo attempted to retali- 
ate, but without success. The tribe just mentioned is the only 
one with whom this naturally-peaceable people are ever at vari- 
ance. If not previously provoked, they interfere with no one. 

We were anxious to form some sort of estimate of the density 
of the population ; but this was no easy matter. However, 
by counting the houses in a certain extent of country, and tak- 
ing the average number of individuals to each, we came to the 
conclusion that there were about a hundred persons to every 
square mile. 

With the exception of a few cows and goats, no cattle were 
seen about the dwellings of the natives, yet we knew them to 
be possessed of vast herds. A general scarcity of water and 
pasturage in Ondonga compelled them to send the oxen 
away to distant parts. They also breed hogs, which, from 
their mischievous propensities, are always sent to a distance dur- 
ing the time of harvest. These animals, they assured us, attain 
to an enormous size. By all accounts, indeed, they must be per- 
fect monsters. And there can be little doubt of the fact ; for 
captains of vessels, who are accustomed to trade with the na- 
tives of the west coast, also speak of a gigantic race of swine. 

In the afternoon of the second day after leaving Chikor'on- 
kombe's werft, we came in sight of the residence of the redoubt- 
able Nangoro. We were not, however, allowed to enter the 
royal inclosures, but a clump of trees was pointed out to us as 
our encamping place. 

Whilst arranging our baggage, etc., Chikor'onkombe proceeded 
to inform his royal master of our arrival,- and to state the quan- 
tity and quality of the intended presents. Before making his 
obeisance to his majesty, the eastern custom of taking off the 
sandals was carefully attended to. On his return he brought a 
man carrying some fire, with orders to extinguish ours, and to 
relight it with that from the king's own hearth. 
10 



CHAPTER XVI. 

VISIT FROM NANGORO HIS EXTREME OBESITY ONE MUST BE FAT TO WEAR 

A CROWN HIS NON-APPRECIATION OF ELOQUENCE SINGULAR EFFECTS 

OF FIREWORKS ON THE NATIVES CURE FOR MAKING A WRY FACE 

BALL AT THE PALACE THE LADIES VERY ATTRACTIVE AND VERY LOV- 
ING THEIR DRESS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. HONESTY OF THE OVAMBO 

KINDNESS TO THE POOR LOVE OF COUNTRY HOSPITALITY DELICATE 

MANNER OF EATING LOOSE MORALS LAWS OF SUCCESSION RELIGION 

HOUSES DOMESTIC ANIMALS IMPLEMENTS OF HUSBANDRY MANNER OF 

TILLING THE GROUND ARTICLES OF BARTER METALLURGY. 

We had been nearly three days at Nangoro's capital before 
its royal occupant honored our camp with his presence. This 
unaccountable delay gave us some uneasiness. Yet we could 
not but surmise that he had been longing to see us during 
the whole time. I believe it, however, to be a kind of rule 
with most native princes of note in this part of Africa, to keep 
strangers waiting, in order to impress them with a due sense of 
dignity and importance. 

If obesity is to be considered as a sign of royalty, Nangoro 
was " every inch a king." To our notions, however, he was the 
most ungainly and unwieldy figure we had ever seen. His 
walk resembled rather the waddling of a duck than the firm and 
easy gait which we are wont to associate with royalty. More- 
over, he was in a state of almost absolute nudity, which showed 
him off to the greatest possible advantage. It appeared strange 
to us that he should be the only really fat person in the whole of 
Ondonga. This peculiarity, no doubt, is attributable to the 
custom that prevails in other parts of Africa, viz., that of select- 
ing for rulers such persons only who have a natural tendency to 



THE ROYAL VISIT. 



147 



corpulence, or, more commonly, fattening them for the dignity 
as we fatten pigs. 1 




INTERVIEW WITH KING NANGORO. 



With the exception of a cow and an ox, Nangoro appeared 
to appreciate few or none of the presents which Mr. Galton 
bestowed on him. And as for my friend's brilliant and energetic 
orations, they had no more effect on the ear of royalty, than if 
addressed to a stock or a stone. It was in vain that he repre- 
sented to his majesty the advantages of a more immediate com- 
munication with Europeans. Nangoro spoke little or nothing. 
He could not be eloquent because excessive fat had made him 
short-winded. Like Falstaff, his " voice was broken." Any 
attempt on his part to utter a sentence of decent length, would 
have put an end to him ; so he merely " grunted" whenever he 
desired to express either approbation or dissatisfaction. 

In common with his men, he was at first very incredulous as 
to the effect produced by fire-arms. But when he witnessed 
the depth that our steel-pointed conical balls penetrated into 
the trunk of a sound tree, he soon changed his opinion and 
evidently became favorably impressed with their efficacy. As 



1 In speaking of the Matabili, Captain Harris says — " To be fat is the greatest 
of all crimes ; no person being allowed that privilege but the king." Here, then, we 
have a new kind of leze-Majeste. According to some of the African tribes, obesity 
in plebeians is high treason ! 



148 EFFECT OF FIREWORKS ON THE NATIVES. 

for the men of his tribe who had not yet seen guns, and who 
had flocked to the camp to have a look at us, they became so 
alarmed, that, at the instant of each discharge, they fell flat on 
their faces, and remained in their prostrate position for some 
little time afterwards. A few very indifferent fireworks, which 
we displayed, created nearly equal surprise and consternation. 

In another interview with Nangoro, he requested us to shoot 
some elephants, which were said to abound at no great distance, 
and which, at times, committed great havoc amongst the corn- 
fields, trampling down what they did not consume. However 
much we might have relished the proposal under other circum- 
stances, we now peremptorily refused to comply. We rea- 
soned thus : — " Supposing we were successful, Nangoro would 
not only bag all the ivory — an article he was known to covet 
and to sell largely to the Portuguese — but he would keep us in 
Ondonga till all the elephants were shot, or scared away." 
Neither of these results suited our purpose. The cunning fel- 
low soon had an opportunity of revenging himself on us for this 
disregard of his royal wish. 




BEER-CUP AND BEER-SPOON 



On paying our respects to his majesty one day, we were regaled 
with a prodigious quantity of beer, brewed from grain, and 
served out of a monster calabash with spoons (made from 
diminutive pumpkins), in nicely-worked wooden goblets. 
Being unwell at the time, I was not in a state properly to 
appreciate the tempting beverage. Nangoro, however, who 
probably attributed the wry face that I made, to the influence 
of the liquor, suddenly thrust his sceptre, which, by the way, 
was simply a pointed stick, with great force into the pit of my 
stomach. I was sitting cross-legged on the ground at the time ; 
but the blow was so violent as to cause me to spring to my 
feet in an instant. Nangoro was evidently much pleased with 
his practical joke. As for myself, I sincerely wished him at 
the antipodes. However, for fear of offending royalty, I choked 
my rising anger, and reseated myself with the best grace I 
could ; but I tried in vain to produce a smile. 

On another occasion, we attended a ball at the royal resi- 
dence. An entertainment of this kind was given every night, 



THE WOMEN DRESS AND ORNAMENTS. 151 

soon after dark ; but it was the most stupid and uninteresting 
affair I ever witnessed. The musical instruments were the 
well-known African tom-tom, and a kind of guitar. We did 




not join in the dance, but amused ourselves with admiring the 
ladies. What with their charms, which were by no means 
inconsiderable, and the wonderful regard they evinced for us, 
these damsels all but ruined our peace of mind. 

The features of the Ovambo women, though coarse, are not 
unpleasing. When young they possess very good figures. As 
they grow older, however, the symmetry gradually disappears, 
and they become exceedingly stout and ungainly. One of the 
causes of this is probably to be found in the heavy copper orna- 
ments, with which they load their wrists and ankles. Some of 
the ankle-rings must weigh as much as two or three pounds, 
and they have often a pair on each leg. Moreover, their necks, 
waists, and hips are almost hidden from view, by a profusion of 
shells, cowries, and beads of every size and color, which some- 
times are rather prettily arranged. 1 Another cause of their 
losing their good looks in comparatively early life, is the con- 
stant and severe labor they are obliged to undergo. In this 
land of industry, no one is allowed to be idle, and this is more 
especially the case with the females. Work begins at sunrise 
and ends at sunset. 

The hair of both men and women is short, crisp, and woolly. 
With the exception of the crown, which is always left 
untouched, the men often shave the head, which has the effect 
of magnifying the natural prominence of the hinder parts of it. 
The women, on the other hand, not satisfied with the gifts nature 
has bestowed upon them, resort, like the polished ladies of 

1 These ornaments, together with a narrow and soft piece of skin in front, and 
another behind of stout hide, constitute the dress of the Ovambo hidies. 



152 HONESTY OF THE OVAMBO. 

Europe, to artificial exaggerations. They besmear and stiller. 
the hair with cakes of grease and a vermilion-colored substance, 
which, from being constantly added to and pressed upon it, 
gives to the upper part of the head a broad and flat look. The 
persons of the women are also profusely besmeared with grease 
and red -ochre. 

Besides ear-rings of beads or shells, the men display but few 
ornaments. With regard to clothing, both sexes are far more 
scantily attired than the Damaras. When grown up, they chip 
the middle tooth in the under-jaw. 

The Ovambo, so far as came under our own observation, were 
strictly honest. Indeed, they appeared to entertain great horror 
of theft ; and said, that a man detected in pilfering, would be 
brought to the king's residence, and there speared to death. 
In various parts of the country, a kind of magistrate is appointed, 
whose duty is to report all misdemeanors. Without permis- 
sion, the natives would not even touch anything ; and we could 
leave our camp free from the least apprehension of being plun- 
dered. As a proof of their honesty, I may mention, that, when 
we left the Ovambo country, the servants forgot some trifles ; 
and such was the integrity of the people, that messengers actu- 
ally came after us a very considerable distance to restore the 
articles left behind. In Damara and Namaqua-land, on the 
contrary, a traveler is in constant danger of being robbed ; and, 
when stopping at a place, it is always necessary to keep the 
strictest watch on the movements of the inhabitants. 

But honesty was not the only good quality of this fine race 
of men. There was no pauperism in the country. Crippled 
and aged people, moreover, seemed to be carefully tended and 
nursed. What a contrast to their neighbors, the Damaras, who, 
when a man becomes old, and no longer able to shift for him- 
self, carry him into the desert or the forest, where he soon falls 
a prey to wild beasts, or is left to perish on his own hearth ! 
Nay, he is often knocked on the head, or otherwise put to death. 

The Ovambo are very national, and exceedingly proud of their 
native soil. They are offended when questioned as to the num- 
ber of chiefs by whom they are ruled. " We acknowledge only 
one king. But a Damara," they would add, with a contempt- 
uous smile, " when possessed of a few cows, considers himself 
at once a chieftain." 

The people have also very strong local attachments. At an 
after-period, whilst Mr. Gralton was waiting at St. Helena for a 
ship to convey him to England, he was told — "That slaves 
were not exported from south of Benguela because they never 



HOW THEY EAT. 155 

thrived when taken away, but became home-sick, and died." 
This, no doubt, refers in part to the Ovambo. Moreover, though 
people of every class and tribe are permitted to intermarry with 
them, they are, in such case, never allowed to leave the country. 

The Ovambo are decidely hospitable. We often had the good 
fortune to partake of their liberality. Their staple food is a 
kind of coarse stir-about, which is always served hot, either 
with melted butter or sour milk. 

Being once on a shooting excursion, our guide took us to a 
friend's house, where we were regaled with the above fare. 
But as no spoons accompanied it, we felt at a loss how to set 
to work. On seeing the dilemma we were in, our host quickly 
plunged his greasy fingers into the middle of the steaming mess, 
and brought out a handful, which he dashed into the milk. 
Having stirred it quickly round with all his might, he next 
opened his spacious mouth, in which the agreeable mixture 
vanished as if by magic. He finally licked his fingers and 
smacked his lips with evident satisfaction, looking at us as much 
as to say — " That's the trick, my boys !" However unpleasant 
this initiation might have appeared to us, it would have been 
ungrateful, if not offensive, to refuse ; therefore, we commenced 
in earnest, according to example, emptying the dish, and oc- 
casionally burning our fingers, to the great amusement of our 
swarthy friends. 




MEAT-DISH. 



Although generally very rich in cattle, and fond of animal 
diet,, their beasts would seem to be kept rather for show than 
for food. When an ox is killed, the greater portion of the 
animal is disposed of by the owner to the neighbors, who give 
the produce of their ground in exchange. 

The morality of the Ovambo is very low, and polygamy is 
practiced to a great extent. A man may have as many wives 
as he can afford to keep ; but, as with the Damaras, there is 
always one who is the favorite and the highest in rank. Woman 
is looked upon as a mere commodity — an article of commerce. 
If the husband be poor, the price of a wife is two oxen and one 



154 RELIGION. 

cow ; but should his circumstances be tolerably flourishing, 
three oxen and two cows will be expected. The chief, how- 
ever, is an exception to this rule. In his case, the honor of an 
alliance with him is supposed to be a sufficient compensation. 
Our fat friend Nangoro had largely benefited by this privilege ; 
for, though certainly far behind the king of Dahomey in regard 
to the number of wives, yet his harem boasted of one hundred 
and six enchanting beauties. 

In case of the death of the king, the son of his favorite wife 
succeeds him ; but if he has no male issue by this woman, her 
daughter then assumes the sovereignty. The Princess Chipanga 
was the intended successor to Nangoro. My friend thought 
that his bearded face had made an impression on this amiable 
lady ; but, though experience has since taught us that he was 
by no means averse to matrimony, he preferred to settle his 
affections on one of his own fair countrywomen rather than marry 
the " greasy negress," Chipanga — heiress of Ondonga. 

We read of nations who are supposed to be destitute of any 
religious principles whatever. If we had placed reliance on 
what the natives themselves told us, we should have set down 
the Ovambo as one of such benighted races. But can there be so 
deplorable a condition of the human mind ? Does not all nature 
forbid it? Do not the sun, the moon, the stars, the solemn 
night and cheerful dawn, announce a Creator even to the children 
of the wilderness ? Is it not proclaimed in the awful voice of 
thunder, and written on the sky by 

" the most terrible and nimble stroke 



Of quick, cross lightning ?" 

Is it possible that any reasoning creature can be so degraded as 
not to have some notion, however faint and inadequate, of an 
Almighty Being? Such a conception is necessarily included, 
more or less, in all forms of idolatry, even the most absurd and 
bestial. The indefinable apprehensions of a savage, and his 
dread of something which he cannot describe, are testimonies 
that at least he suspects (however dimly and ignorantly) that the 
visible is not the whole. This may be the germ of religion — 
the first uncouth approaches of " faith"'as the " evidence of things 
not seen" — the distant and imperfectly-heard announcement of 
a God. 

May not our incorrect ideas on this head, in reference to the 
Ovambo, be attributed to want of time and insufficient know- 
ledge of their language, habits, and shyness in revealing such 



HOUSES. 



155 



matters to strangers ? When interrogating our guide on the 
subject of religion, he would abruptly stop us with a "Hush!" 
Does not this ejaculation express awe and reverence, and a deep 
sense of his own utter insufficiency to enter on so solemn a 
theme? The Ovambo always evinced much uneasiness when- 
ever, in alluding to the state of man after death, we mentioned 
Nangoro. " If you speak in that manner," they said in a whis- 
per, " and it should come to the hearing of the king, he will 
think that you may want to kill him." They, moreover, hinted 
that similar questions might materially hurt our interest, which 
was too direct a hint to be misunderstood. To speak of the 
death of a king or chief, or merely to allude to the heir-apparent, 
many savage nations consider equivalent to high treason. 




DWELLING-HOUSE AND CORN-STORES. 



As already said, the Ovambo surround their dwellings with 
high palisades, consisting of stout poles about eight or nine feet 
in height, fixed firmly in the ground, at short intervals from each 
other. The interior arrangements of these inclosures were most 
intricate. They comprised the dwelling-houses of masters and 
attendants, open spaces devoted to amusement and consultation, 
granaries, pig-sties, roosting-places for fowls, the cattle-kraal 
and so forth. 

Their houses are of a circular form. The lower part consists 
of slender poles, about two feet six inches high, driven into the 



156 



DOMESTIC ANIMAL S H USBANDRY. 



ground, and further secured by means of cord, etc., the whole 
being plastered over with clay. The roof, which is formed of 
rushes, is not unlike that of a bee-hive. The height of the 
whole house, from the ground to the top of the " hive," does 
not much exceed four feet, while in circumference it is about 
sixteen. 

They store the grain in gigantic baskets, generally manufac- 
tured from palm-leaves, plastered with clay, and covered with 
nearly the same material and in the same manner as the dwell- 
ing-houses. They are, moreover, of every dimension ; and by 
means of a frame-work of wood, are raised about a foot from 
the ground. The domestic animals of the Ovambo are the ox, 
the sheep, the goat, the pig, the dog, and the barn-door fowl. 
The latter was of a small breed, a kind of bantam, very hand- 
some, and, if properly fed and housed, the hens would lay eggs 
daily. 

The wet season in these latitudes commences about the same 
period as in Damara-land, that is in October and November. 
When the first heavy rains are over, the Ovambo begin to sow 




VIEW IN ONDONGA.l 



1 The above wood-cut is a view of the country near Nangoro's residence. The 
huts seen in the distance are those of bushnien. A great number of these people 
dwell amongst the Ovambo, to whom they stand in a kind of vassalage and rela- 
tionship. 



HUSBANDRY ARTICLES OF BARTER 



157 



grain, etc. ; but they plant tobacco in the dry time of the year. 
Both sexes assist in tilling the ground, which, near the surface, 
consists of a flinty sand-soil. A short distance beneath, blue 
clay appears. The land must be rich and fertile, as manure is 
seldom made use of. The only farm-implement we saw in use 
amongst the Ovambo was a kind of hoe, of very rude workman- 
ship. Instead of cultivating a whole piece of ground, as with us, 
they simply dig a hole here and there, in which they deposit a 
handful of corn. When a little above ground, those seedlings 
which are too thick, are transplanted. The process of reaping, 
cleaning, and grinding, falls almost exclusively on the women. 
The grain is reduced to flour by means of a stout pole in a kind 
of mortar, or hollow wooden tube. Whilst the females are thus 
employed, some of the men attend to the herding of the cattle, 
and the rest make trading excursions to the neighboring tribes. 
The chief article of export is ivory, which they procure from 
elephants caught in pitfalls. In exchange for this, they obtain 
beads, iron, copper, shells, cowries, etc. ; and such articles as 
they do not consume themselves they sell to the Damaras. As 
far as we could learn, they make four expeditions annually into 
Damara-land ; two by the way of Okamabuti, and two by that 
of Omaruru. The return for these several journeys, on an 
average, would seem to be about eight hundred head of cattle. 
Since we were in the country, however, it is probable that 
great changes may have taken place. 




BLACKSMITHS AT WORK 



158 ARTICLES OF BARTER METALLURGY. 

Next to their cattle, they prize beads ; but, though they 
never refuse whatever is offered to them, there are some sorts 
that they more especially value, and it is of very great import- 
ance to the traveler and trader to be aware of this, as, in reality, 
beads constitute his only money, or means of exchange. Thus, 
throughout Ondonga, large red (oval or cylindrically-shaped), 
large bluish white, small dark indigo, small black (spotted 
with red), and red, in general, are more particularly in re- 
quest. 

The Ovambo have some slight knowledge of metallurgy. 
Though no mineral is indigenous to their own country, they 
procure copper and iron ore in abundance from their neighbors, 
which they smelt in fireproof crucibles. The bellows employed 
in heating the iron are very indifferent, and stones serve as sub- 
stitutes for hammer and anvil. Yet, rude as these implements 
are, they manage not only to manufacture their own ornaments 
and farming tools, but almost all the iron-ware used in barter. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE RIVER CUNENE THE TRAVELERS ARE PRISONERS AT LARGE KINGLY 

REVENGE KINGLY LIBERALITY DEPART FROM ONDONGA SUFFERINGS 

AND CONSEQUENCES RESULTING FROM COLD RETURN TO OKAMABUTI 

DAMARA WOMEN MURDERED BY BUSHMEN PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY 

OBTAIN GUIDES DEPART FROM TJOPOPA's WERFT GAME ABUNDANT 

AUTHOR AND THREE LIONS STALK ANTELOPES IN COMPANY EXTRAORDI- 
NARY VISITATION THE RHINOCEROS'S GUARDIAN ANGEL THE TEXTOR 

ERYTHRORHYNCHUS THE AMADINA SQUAMIFRONS ; SINGULAR CONSTRUC- 
TION OF ITS NEST RETURN TO BARMEN. 

Many years previously to our visit to the Ovambo, a French 
frigate discovered the embouchure of a magnificent river, known 
as Cunene, between the seventeenth and eighteenth degrees of 
south latitude. Other vessels were sent out to explore it, and 
to ascertain its course, etc., but, strange to say, they searched 
for it in vain ! l 

The discoverers could not, however, have been mistaken ; and 
as we now approached the latitudes in question, we made inqui- 
ries, and soon found that only four days' travel north of Ondonga 
there existed a river of great size, which, we doubted not, was 
identical with Cunene; and further inquiry fully corroborated 
this supposition. A run-away slave from Benguela, who was liv- 
ing at the time among the Ovambo, informed us that in its upper 
course (or rather another branch) this river is called Mukuru 
Mukovanja, but that in its lower course it is designated Cunene. 
Moreover, that though of very considerable size, and containing 

1 Captain Messum, master of a merchant vessel, subsequently informed me that 
he has seen it. 



160 THE RIVER CUNENi. 

a large volume of water, it does not always find its way directly 
into the sea. He declared the cause of this to be the formation 
of sand-banks at its mouth, which compels it to take a subter- 
raneous course. Occasionally, however, it breaks through these 
barriers. This was exceedingly interesting, inasmuch as it ex- 
plained the cause of its mysterious disappearance. 

The Ovambo, themselves, gave us to understand that they 
often extended their trading excursions to the Cunene, and even 
crossed it by means of canoes. The people dwelling on its 
south bank were called Ovapangari (a few of whom we saw in 
Ondonga) and Ovabundya. The latter were represented as liv- 
ing among " many waters," which we conjectured meant the 
confluence of some of the branches. The names of several 
other tribes will be met with, all of which seem to be 
closely allied in language, habits, etc. Indeed, the Damaras 
designate them all Ovambo, which they apply to people with 
permanent habitations and agricultural habits. 

Our curiosity to see the Cunene was greatly aroused ; though, 
in order to accomplish this object, it would be necessary to 
overcome many difficulties. Pleasant as our arrival and stay in 
Ondonga had generally been, it was in some respects attended 
with much inconvenience. The freedom we had enjoyed to 
such perfection amongst the Damaras ceased with our entrance 
into Ovambo-land. We could hardly stir half a mile from our 
camp, without having first obtained the permission of our des- 
potic friend, and much less could we think of returning or pro- 
ceeding. We had left half our party behind us in a savage and 
inhospitable country, without a sufficiency of provisions. Our 
own stores were very deficient in animal food. No pasturage 
was left in Ondonga but corn-stubble, or rather corn-stalks ; 
and of this, as well as of water, the inhabitants were extreme- 
ly tenacious. The consequence was that the poor cattle daily 
fell off in condition. We were already two long weeks' journey 
distant from our camp at Okamabuti, and to undertake an ex- 
cursion to the Cunene, and return, would occupy fully another 
fortnight, making thus, at the very least, a whole month's actual 
travel. This, we feared, was more than our emaciated cattle 
were equal to. Yet, notwithstanding all these formidable diffi- 
culties, the enterprise was of such great importance that we de- 
termined not to give it up without a struggle. Unless we could 
obtain the consent and assistance of Nangoro, we were aware 
that all our efforts would be unavailing. Accordingly, we in- 
formed him of our plans, with a request that he would provide 
us with guides. But he sulkily replied, that as we did not 



ROYAL REVENGE DEPART FROM ONDON6A. 161 

choose to kill elephants for him, he could not oblige us in this 
matter ! Under any circumstances, such ungenerous conduct 
would have been highly vexatious; but, in our situation, we 
could only submit, and hope it was all for the best ; and that 
which his majesty intended an act of revenge, might, in the end, 
be the means of saving ourselves. 

Thus frustrated in our plans, and having seen and ascertained 
everything we could in the country, we at once determined to 
retrace our steps. However, after what had just fallen from the 
lips of the chief, it was not without some misgivings, that we 
waited to know his wishes and intentions with regard to our 
departure. But there was no cause for anxiety. Having 
squeezed everything out of us that would have been of any use 
to him, he was evidently but too well pleased to see us leave 
his territory, which would relieve him from the necessity of 
making us any presents. During our stay in Ondonga, all that 
this royal miser gave us, was a small basket of flour ; though, on 
our finally leaving his dominion, he ordered one of his " bread- 
eaters," who accompanied us as guide to the frontier, to levy 
a tribute of corn on his subjects for our behoof; but this largess, 
at the expense of others, came too late, as we had already laid in 
a sufficient stock of the staff of life, which we had obtained from 
the natives by barter. 

The 13th of June was fixed for our departure. We were not, 
however, able to get away till two days later. On the 18th 
we were fairly out of sight of the fertile plains of Ondonga. 
Nangoro had originally promised to send our old friend Chikor'- 
onkombe back with us ; but the fellow abruptly and treacher- 
ously deserted us. This proved of great inconvenience, and it 
was only by exerting all our ingenuity that we ultimately suc- 
ceeded in finding our way home. As has been already said, 
there were no landmarks by which we could steer. 

The nights had now become bitterly cold. In crossing the 
Otjihako-tja-Mutenya, we were obliged to bivouac on this bleak 
and exposed plain without a particle of fuel. What with the 
piercing wind and low temperature, it was one of the most try- 
ing nights I remember to have spent in Africa. • Indeed, I hardly 
ever felt the cold more during the most severe Scandinavian 
winter. Even the cattle were so exceedingly distressed, that seve- 
ral of our best draught-oxen never thoroughly recovered. Our 
poor Damaras suffered fearfully ; and it was only by huddling 
themselves together at the bottom of a dried-up well, that they 
were enabled to keep the least warmth in their bodies. Timbo, 
however, appeared to be the greatest sufferer. One morning we 
11 



162 ARRIVAL AT OKAMABUTI. 

were amazed at finding his dark, shiny skin suddenly changed 
into a pale, ashy gray. 

Owing to the scarcity of water at this time of the year, game 
was rare. Indeed, we only met with animals, such as the gi- 
raffe, the koodoo, the gemsbok, the eland, etc., that either wholly, 
or in great part, can do without water. 

On the 1st of July, after about a fortnight's steady travel, we 
reached our encampment in safety. The two hundred miles of 
country we had crossed presented, perhaps, as dreary and unin- 
teresting a prospect as can well be imagined. 

In our absence, Tjopopa, with his people, left Okamabuti, 
and removed a few miles further to the westward. Our men 
followed his example. On approaching the camp, we espied 
Hans perched in the top of a tree, anxiously looking out for our 
return. The whole party was almost wild with delight at see- 
ing us safe back, of which they began to despair. They had 
passed a most dreary time. The natives, though friendly, teased 
and annoyed them excessively with begging, and even pilfering; 
the chief, as not unfrequently happens, having been the most 
importunate of the whole lot. Moreover, he had not paid his 
debt, nor would he sell Hans any cattle ; and, as there was then 
very little game in the neighborhood, they were so pressed for 
food, that Hans was obliged to reduce the men's allowances very 
considerably. Our Damara servants lived for some time solely 
on such birds and small animals as they could kill by means of 
the dogs. Fortunately, Hans possessed some tobacco ; and 
whilst the natives refused everything else, he was able to obtain 
a few sheep for this article, which proved a most opportune 
supply. 

Not many days previous to our arrival, eight Damara women 
had been surprised by the bushmen, and unmercifully put to 
death. This, however, was not to be wondered at, for the 
Damaras themselves are always waging an exterminating war 
on the bushmen. Indeed, they hunt them down, wherever 
met with, like wild beasts. 

Hans had succeeded in repairing the wagon most satisfactori- 
ly, and the oxen, though rather lean, were in tolerably good 
working order. We now determined to turn our faces home- 
wards, without a moment's delay. A very few days were suffi- 
cient to enable us to complete the final preparations. 

By this time, all the pools of rain-water, which had befriend- 
ed us on our journey northwards, were dried up, and it would, 
therefore, have been impossible to retrace our steps by the same 
route. The Damaras strongly advised us to strike the Omuram- 



DEPART FROM TJOPOPA's WERFT. 163 

ba-k'Omatako at a certain point, and, by following its course, 
they assured us we should find water and pasturage in abund- 
ance. One man in particular, who had always shown him- 
self civil and obliging, offered to act as guide the first part 
of the way. For the remainder, we secured the services of a 
lad professing to be well acquainted with the country. Having, 
on so many occasions, been deceived by the natives, we did not 
much relish the ideaof again trusting ourselves to their guidance. 
However, there was no alternative ; and in this instance, to do 
justice to the men, I must say they not only spoke the truth, 
but performed their services most satisfactorily. 

Without bidding farewell to Tjopopa who, throughout, had 
treated us inhospitably, we yoked our oxen on the 5th of July, 
and, after about three days' travel, arrived in the Omuramba. 
At this point, the river (or rather the river-bed) appeared to cease 
altogether ; but the natives declared that it continued to flow 
towards the Ovatjona or Matjo'na. I have since ascertained that 
they alluded to the Bechuana country. Hence, we traveled 
steadily up towards its source. Its bed, which sometimes spread 
out into a flat, and at others formed a narrow channel, afforded 
us always a good and open road. The country on both sides 
was hemmed in by an apparently endless thorn-coppice. We 
usually found water daily ; at first in pools, but afterwards ex- 
clusively in wells, varying in depth from a few feet to as much 
as forty. These were generally choked up with sand, and it 
often occupied us half a day to clean them out. I remember, on 
one occasion, working hard with a party consisting of about 
thirty men and women during upwards of twenty hours, before 
we could obtain a sufficiency of water. It was cold work ; 
for about sunrise the ice was often half an inch thick, and we 
had no water-proof boots to protect our feet. 

Game now became abundant. We managed to kill sufficient 
for the table without being obliged to have recourse to our few 
remaining live stock. I saw here for the first time that magni- 
ficent antelope, the eland. 

Beasts of prey were likewise numerous. Indeed, they always 
follow the larger game. During the nights, we were constantly 
annoyed by the dismal howlings of the hyaenas ; and we had 
some very exciting foot-chases after these animals. 

Whilst out hunting early one morning, I espied a small troop 
of gnoos quietly grazing at a bend of the river. Cautiously ap- 
proaching them under shelter of the intervening ground, they 
suddenly tossed their heads, switched their tails, scraped the 
earth impatiently with their hoofs, and sniffed the air. I was 



164 THE LOST ONE FOUND. 

puzzled how to account for this unusual agitation, as, from my 
position, I was certain they could not have discovered me. But 
I had not much time for conjecture ; for the next instant I was 
startled by the growl of some animal close to me. On looking 
in the direction whence it proceeded, I discovered, to my ut- 
ter astonishment, two lions and a lioness on the rising ground 
just above me ; and, as it seemed, they also were on the look-out 
for the gnoos. 1 I instinctively leveled my piece at the head of 
the nearest of the beasts ; but a moment's reflection con- 
vinced me that the odds were too great, and I, therefore, thought 
it best to reserve my fire, so as to be in readiness to receive them, 
should they charge. After having regarded me for a few seconds, 
however, they growlingly disappeared behind a sand-hill. 

By this time, the gnoos had become aware of the lions, and 
were making off at the top of their speed. Being anxious to 
obtain a shot at them, I followed on their tracks, but soon found, 
to my dismay, that my three royal friends, with jaws dis- 
tended and uttering furious growls, were following a course 
parallel to mine. Though I must confess I did not at all like 
their looks, as only excessive hunger could have induced them, 
in broad day, to seek for victims, I nevertheless continued to 
follow the tracks of the antelopes until they led me into the 
bush, where I presently lost them, as well as myself. 

On first seeing the gnoos, I left my henchman, " Bill," a Da- 
mara lad, who carried my spare gun, at some distance behind, 
with directions to follow on my track according to circumstances. 
Now that the gnoos were lost to me, I shouted loudly to the 
youth, and also discharged my gun more than once, but was un- 
able to elecit a reply. Thinking, however, that he might have 
returned to our encampment (which was at no great distance), I 
I also repaired there. But "Bill" had not been heard of. The 
harassing suspicion at once crossed my mind that the lions had 
eaten him. Without a moment's delay I hurried back to the 
spot where I had last seen the beasts, but all my endeavors to 
find the poor fellow were unavailing. What with my anxiety 
on his account, and my exertions under a broiling sun (for if the 
weather were frosty at night, it calcined one by day), I was un- 
able to proceed further, and sat myself down on the ground to 
wait for the arrival of the wagons which were now moving for- 
ward. Just at this moment, the Damara, to my inexpressible 
delight, emerged from the bush. His story was soon told. He 

'The plate facing the page represents two lions observing me, whilst the lioness 
not yet aware of my presence, is still eagerly pushing on towards the intended victims. 



EXTRAORDINARY VISITATIO N B I R D S . 167 

had, like myself, lost his way, and it was long before he was able 
to recover the right track. 

One morning, as we were about to yoke the oxen, we were 
amused to see them suddenly start off in every direction, in the 
wildest confusion, and cutting the most ridiculous capers. The 
cause of this commotion was the arrival of a large flock of 
the buphaga africana, which alighted on the backs of the cattle 
for the purpose of feeding on the ticks with which their hides 
are covered. By means of their long claws and elastic tails, 
these birds are enabled to cling to, and search every part of, the 
beast. It was evident, however., that our oxen had never expe- 
rienced a similar visitation ; no wonder, therefore, that they were 
taken somewhat a-back at being thus unceremoniously assailed. 

The buphaga africana is also a frequent companion of the rhino- 
ceros, to which, besides being of service in ridding him of many 
of the insects that infest his hide, it performs the important part 
of sentinel. On many occasions has this watchful bird prevent- 
ed me from getting a shot at that beast. The moment it suspects 
danger, it flies almost perpendicularly up into the air, uttering 
sharp, shrill notes, that never fail to attract the attention of the 
rhinoceros, who, without waiting to ascertain the cause, almost 
instantly seeks safety in a precipitate flight. According to Mr. 
Cumming, these birds also attend upon the hippopotamus. 

Another bird {textor erythrorhijnchus) is also in the habit of 
feeding upon parasitical insects, but is said to restrict its visits 
to the buffalo. In the part of Damara-land of which I am 
now speaking, that animal is unknown ; yet these birds were in 
very great numbers. It appeared to be very social in its habits, 
living in colonies, and building its nest, which consists of dry 
sticks, on lofty trees. 

We also made acquaintance with a small, sparrow-looking 
bird, the amadina squamijrons, which deserves notice on account 
of its peculiar and interesting nest. According to Dr. Andrew 
Smith, this is placed on a small shrub, and is constructed of 
grass. But in Damara-land and parts adjacent, the materials 
are of a beautifully soft texture, not unlike sheep's wool. I 
never could discover the plant from which it was procured. 
The Hottentots use it as a substitute for gun-wadding, and 
it is by no means a bad makeshift. The nest is so strongly 
put together, that one has difficulty in separating it. When 
the old bird absents itself, it effectually conceals the opening 
of the nest from view. Even long after I was acquainted 
with this peculiarity I was puzzled to find it out. Just 
above the entrance is a small hollow, which has no communi- 



168 RETURN TO BARMEN. 

cation with the interior of the nest, but which, by the un- 
initiated, is often mistaken for it. In this tube the male bird 
sits at night. 

We occasionally fell in with Damara villages. In our jour- 
ney northwards, the natives had shown themselves exces- 
sively timid and suspicious ; but now that they had so many 
evidences of our peaceful intentions, they approached our camp 
without the least reserve or hesitation ; but we could not 
induce them to part with any cattle, of which we stood much 
in need. 

On the 26th of July we came in sight of Omatako, and many 
other well-known hills. On the 3rd of August we found our- 
selves at Schmelen's Hope ; but how different an aspect did it 
present to that which lived in our memory ! When we left it, 
about three month's previously, the country was covered with 
the most luxuriant vegetation. Since then, the Damaras had 
been encamping there with their cattle, and we were now 
unable to obtain sufficient pasturage for our animals. The 
water, moreover, was all but exhausted. 

On the following day, the 4th of August, we continued our 
journey to Barmen, where we arrived on the afternoon of the 
the same day safe and well. 

Thus ended an expedition which, although it might not have 
been so successful as we had anticipated, was not without 
its fruits. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE DAMARAS WHENCE THEY CAME THEIR CONQUESTS THE TIDE TURNS 

DAMARA-LAND ONLY PARTIALLY INHABITED CLIMATE SEASONS 

MYTHOLOGY RELIGION SUPERSTITIONS MARRIAGE POLYGAMY 

CHILDREN CIRCUMCISION— BURY THEIR DEAD "WAY THEY MOURN 

CHILDREN INTERRED ALIVE BURIAL OF THE CHIEF, AND SUPERSTITIONS 

CONSEQUENT THEREON MALADIES DAMARAS DO NOT LIVE LONG ; THE 

CAUSE THEREOF FOOD MUSIC AND DANCING HOW THEY SWEAR 

POWER OF THE CHIEFTAIN LIMITED SLOTHFUL PEOPLE NUMERALS 

ASTRONOMY DOMESTIC ANIMALS ; THEIR DISEASES. 

Frequent opportunities had by this time been afforded me of 
observing and studying the physical features of the country, the 
character of the natives, and their religious rites and customs. 
Having previously said but little on these subjects, I propose 
now to give some account of them. Though, from the lying 
habits of the Damaras, great difficulty has arisen in arriving at 
the truth, I believe that my statements will not be very wide 
of the mark. Besides the concurrent testimony of many of 
the natives, I have had the satisfaction, on comparing my notes 
with those of the missionaries, to find them agree in the main ; 
and, as it has been my fate to witness the complete ruin and 
downfall of the Damaras — who, probably before another 
century has passed away, will be forgotten — I think that a 
connected and somewhat-detailed description of their history 
may not be unacceptable to the general reader. 

That the Damaras have not resided for any length of time in the 
country which they now occupy, is quite certain, though whence 
they came is doubtful. Some of these people point to the north 
as their original home ; others conjecture that they migrated 



170 THE DAMARAS: WHENCE THEY CAME. 

from the northeast. 1 Be this as it may, it would appear quite 
certain that, about seventy years ago, not a Damara was to be 
found south of the Kaoko — but that, at some time within this 
period, they invaded the country, then inhabited by bushmen 
and Hill-Damaras, the last being in all probability the abori- 
gines. Not having a warlike disposition, the Hill-Damaras 
were easily subdued, and those who were not killed were made 
captives. The few that escaped took refuge among the moun- 
tains, or other inhospitable and inaccessible regions, where they 
are still found dragging on a most miserable and degraded 
existence. 

The Damaras were once, undoubtedly, a great nation ; but, 
unlike others which gradually become powerful by the union of 
a number of smaller tribes under the head of a single chief or 
king, they have dwindled into an endless number of petty 
tribes, ruled by as many chiefs. 

After their conquest of the country, the Damaras continued 
to extend themselves, without much opposition, to the east 
nearly as far as Lake Ngami, and to about the twenty-fourth 
degree of latitude on the south. At both these points, however, 
they were checked in their onward career. At first they were 
attacked by the Matjo'nas, with whom, from time to time, they 
had several desperate conflicts ; and though they appear to 
have fought well, they were ultimately obliged to retreat with 
considerable loss. But it was from the Namaqua-Hottentots, 
that they were destined to experience the greatest reverse, by 
whom, as will by-and-by be shown, they were finally destroyed 
or broken up. 

About the period of the conquest alluded to, a small tribe of 
Namaqua-Hottentots had pitched their tents on the banks of 
the Orange river under the rule of Jonker Afrikaner, 2 who was 



1 In my journey to the Lake Ngami, at an after period, I observed whole forests 
of a species of tree called Omumborombonga, the supposed progenitor of the 
Damaras. This fact, coupled with our knowledge that all the tribes to the north 
are more or less conversant with agriculture, of which the Damaras know nothing 
(having no word in their language for cereal food), and that many of the nations 
to the east are partly pastoral, would seem to indicate a northeast or east direc- 
tion as their original home. 

8 His father, Christian Afrikaner, once lived within the present boundary of the 
Cape Colony ; but his brother having killed a Dutch farmer, from whom the tribe 
is said to have suffered much wrong, he and his kindred were obliged to fly the 
country. He then settled on the banks of the Garib or Orange river, where he 
soon became famous for his daring and ferocious exploits against his neighbors. 
In this state of things he was found by the Rev. Mr. Moffat, well-known for his 
missionary labors in Southern Africa, who, after having experienced much opposi- 



THE TIDE TURN S C LIMAI E S EASONS. 171 

then a chief only of secondary importance ; yet, as his people 
were possessed of horses and fire-arms, he soon became formida- 
ble to his enemies. The territory, lying between him and the 
Damaras, was occupied by various tribes of Namaquas, who, on 
finding themselves hard pressed by the Damaras, sent to Jonker 
to demand his assistance. This he granted ; and, like another 
Caesar, "came, saw, and conquered." Indeed, that day sealed 
the fate of Damara-land. The Namaquas, at first the oppressed, 
became in their turn the oppressors. In proportion as they 
grew powerful and successful, the prospect of booty, which the 
vast herds of sleek cattle so amply afforded them, was the sole 
object of their inroads upon the Damaras. They appeared to 
have adopted the motto of the old sea-kings — 

" That they should take who have the power, 
And they should keep who cau." 

From my first arrival in the country to the time I left it — a 
period of less than four years — the Namaquas had deprived the 
Damaras of fully one-half of their cattle, the other portion hav- 
ing already been taken from them previously to my visit. With 
the loss of their property, followed that of their independence. 

Although a large tract of country is marked on the map as 
Damara-land, a small portion only is inhabitable. This may 
also be affirmed of Namaqua-land ; and in both cases the dis- 
parity arises either from scarcity of water, or the frequency of 
inextricable jungles of thorn- wood. 

Damara-land being situated in the tropic of Capricorn, the 
seasons are naturally the reverse of those in Europe. In the 
month of August, when our summer may be said to be at an 
end, hot westerly winds begin to blow, which quickly parch up 
and destroy the vegetation. At the same time, whirlwinds 
sweep over the country with tremendous velocity, driving along 
vast columns of sand, many feet in diameter, and several hun- 
dred in height. At times ten or fifteen of these columns may be 
seen chasing each other. The Damaras designate them Oruk- 
umb'ombura, or rain-beggars, a most appropriate name, as they 
usually occur just before the first rains fall. 

Showers, accompanied by thunder and vivid lightning, are not 
unusual in the months of September and October ; but the regu- 

tion, finally succeeded in converting him to Christianity. At his death the pres- 
ent Jonker Afrikaner, though an elder brother was still living, assumed the chief- 
tainship, which occasioned a division in the tribe, and was, moreover, the original 
cause of their migration northward. 



172 MYTHOLOGY. 

lar rains do not set in till December and January, when they 
continue, with but slight intermission, till May. In this month 
and June, strong easterly winds prevail, which are not only 
disagreeable but injurious to health. The lips crack, and the 
skin feels- dry and harsh. Occasionally, at this time, tropical 
rains fall, but they do more harm than good, as a sudden cold, 
which annihilates vegetation, is invariably the result. In July 
and August, the nights are the coldest, and it is then no unusual 
thing to find ice half an inch thick. Snow is of rare occurrence. 

The Damaras and the Bechuanas have nearly the same notion 
as to their origin. Thus the latter believe that the founders of 
their nation, and the animals of the country, emerged from a 
cave, whilst the former declare that they sprung from a tree. 
When men and beasts first burst from the parent tree — so runs 
the tradition — all was enveloped in profound darkness. A Da- 
mara then lit a fire, which so frightened the zebra, the giraffe, 
the gnoo, and every other beast now found wild in the country, 
that they all fled from the presence of man, whilst the domestic 
animals, such as the ox, the sheep, 1 and the dog, collected fear- 
lessly round the blazing brands. 

The tree, from which the Damaras are descended, is to be seen, 
they say, at a place called Omaruru. But somehow there must 
be more than one parent tree ; for, both in going and coming, 
we met with several Omumborombongas, all of which the na- 
tives treated with filial affection. 2 

The chief deity of the Damaras is called Omukuru. His 
abode is said to be in the far-north ; but it would be somewhat 
difficult to specify his attributes. Each tribe is supposed to 
have its own Omukuru, to whom it ascribes all its superstitious 
habits and customs, peculiarities, etc. The tribe is divided into 
castes or " eandas." Thus there are Ovakueyuba, those of the 
sun, or related to the sun, and Ovakuenombura, those related to 
the rain, etc., each of which has its peculiar rites and supersti- 
tions. These, moreover, are derived from the mother, and not 
from the father. If a man of the Ovakueyuba marries a woman 
of the Ovakuenombura, their offspring adopt the notions, etc., 
peculiar to the latter, and vice-versa. They cannot account for 
this division of castes ; they merely say it is derived from the 
" wind." Some religious notions, no doubt, lie at the bottom 
of this. 



1 Some Damaras attribute the origin of the sheep to a large stone. 
3 The grain of this tree is so very close, and the wood so exceedingly weighty, 
that we srave it the name of the " iron tree." 



RELIGIO N S UPBRSTITION. 173 

Though the Damaras do not profess absolutely to believe in a 
life hereafter, they have a confused notion of a future state. 
Thus, they not unfrequently bring provisions to the graves of a 
deceased friend or relation, requesting him to eat and make 
merry. In return, they invoke his blessing, and pray for success 
against their enemies, an abundance of cattle, numerous wives, 
and prosperity in their undertakings. 

The spirits of deceased persons are believed to appear after 
death, but are then seldom seen in their natural form. They 
usually assume on such occasions the shape of a dog, having, 
not unfrequently, the foot of an ostrich. Any individual to 
whom such an apparition (Otjruru) might appear, especially if 
it should follow and accost him, is supposed to die soon after. 

The Damaras have great faith in witchcraft. Individuals 
versed in the black art are called Omundu-Onganga, or Omun- 
du-Ondyai, and are much sought after. Any person falling sick 
is immediately attended by one of these impostors, whose pana- 
cea is to besmear the mouth and the forehead of the patient 
with the ordure of the hyena, which is supposed to possess par- 
ticularly healing virtues. The sorcerer, moreover, makes signs 
and conjurations. 

Some very singular superstitions about meat exist among the 
Damaras. Thus a man will, perhaps, not eat the flesh of an ox 
which may happen to be marked with black, white, or red spots. 
Others refuse to partake of a sheep should it have no horns ; 
whilst some would not touch the meat of draught-oxen, accord- 
ing to the rule of the " eanda" to which he belongs. If meat is 
offered a Damara, he will accept it ; but before he ventures to 
eat it, he carefully inquires about the color of the animal, 
whether it had horns, etc. ; and should it prove forbidden food, 
he will, in all probability, leave it untouched, even though he 
might be dying of hunger. Some even carry their scruples so 
far as to avoid coming in contact with vessels in which such 
food has been cooked ; nay, even the smoke of the fire by which 
it is prepared is considered injurious. Hence, the religious 
superstitions of these people often expose them to no small 
amount of inconvenience and suffering. 

The fat of particular animals is supposed to possess certain 
virtues ; and is carefully collected and kept in vessels of a pecu- 
liar kind. A small portion of this is given in solution with 
water, to persons who return safely to their homes after a 
lengthened absence at the cattle-posts. The chief also makes 
use of it as an unguent for his body. 

"When an ox accidentally dies at a chiefs werft, his daughter 



174 SUPERSTITION. 

(the offspring, probably of his favorite or chief wife) ties a dou- 
ble knot on her leather apron. Should this be neglected, a 
" curse" is believed to be the consequence. She also places a 
piece of wood on the back of the dead animal, praying at the 
same time for long life, plenty of cattle, etc. This woman is 
called Ondangere, and is to the Damaras what the vestal was 
amongst the ancient Romans ; for, besides attending to the sac- 
rifices, it is her duty to keep up the " holy fire" (Omuran- 
gere). 

Outside the chiefs hut where he is accustomed to sit in the 
daytime, a fire is always kept burning ; but, in case of rain or 
bad weather, it is transferred to the hut of the priestess, who, 
should it be deemed advisable to change the site of the village, 
precedes the oxen with a portion of this consecrated fire, every 
possible care being taken to prevent it from being extinguished. 
Should, however, this calamity happen, the whole tribe is imme- 
diately assembled, and large expiatory offerings of cattle are 
made ; after which the fire is relit in the primitive way — name- 
ly, by friction. This again reminds us of the "holy fire" of the 
Romans, which, under similar circumstances, could only be 
relit by fire from heaven. 

A portion of such fire is also given to the head man of a kraal, 
when about to remove from that of the chief. The duties of a 
vestal then devolve on the daughter of the emigrant. 

For every wild animal that a young man destroys, his father 
makes four small oblong incisions on the front of the son's 
body as marks of honor and distinction. He is, moreover, pre- 
sented with a sheep or cow. If either of these should produce 
young ones, they are slaughtered and eaten, but only males are 
allowed to partake of such food. 

The chief of a kraal must always taste the provisions before they 
can be eaten by the rest of the tribe. Though sweet milk, 
when boiled, may be freely drunk by the women and children, 
it is more commonly swallowed in an acid state. 

Should a sportsman return from a successful hunt, he takes 
water in his mouth, and ejects it three times over his feet, as 
also in the fire of his own hearth. 

When cattle are required merely for food, they are suffocated ; 
but if for sacrifices, they are speared to death. On the decease 
of one of the tribe, they have also the cruel practice of destroy- 
ing the poor beasts with clubs, which I believe to be a kind 
of expiatory offering. The flesh of such cattle as are killed 
on the death of a chief, is principally consumed by his serv- 
ants. 



POLYGAMY. 175 

The women marry at very much the same age as those in Eu- 
rope ; but few ceremonies are connected with this important 
affair. A girl is sometimes betrothed to a man when yet a 
child; though, under such circumstances, she remains with her 
parents till of proper age. The woman, upon being asked in 
marriage, puts on a helmet-shaped head-dress, kept in readiness 
for such occasions, and, for a certain time, hides her face by 
means of a piece of thin, soft skin, attached to the front of the 
" casque," which she can raise or let fall in much the same man- 
ner as a curtain. 

Polygamy is practiced to a great extent, and, as has been 
said elsewhere, women are bargained for like merchandise, the 
price varying according to the circumstances of the husband. 
Yet, though a man may have as many wives as he likes, I never 
knew one to have more than twenty ! — a pretty good supply, 
however, it must be admitted. 

The favorite wife always takes precedence of the rest ; and 
if she should have a son he succeeds to his father's possessions 
and authority. 

Each wife builds for herself a hut of a semi-circular form, the 
walls of which consist of boughs, sticks, etc., the whole being 
plastered over. 

Twins are not uncommon with the Damaras. Children are, 
generally speaking, easily reared. During infancy, sheep's 
milk constitutes their chief diet. Their heads are more or less 
deprived of hair ; the boys are shaved, but the crown of the 
head of the girls is left untouched. Even grown-up females 
follow this custom. To the hair thus left they attach — not 
very unlike the Ovambo — thin strings, made from some fibrous 
substance. 

All males are circumcised ; but no particular period of life is 
prescribed for this operation, which usually takes place when 
any event of national interest occurs. 

Children are named after great public incidents ; but, as they 
grow up, should any circumstance arise of still greater import- 
ance to the community they are renamed ; retaining, however, 
the original appellation. And since there may be no limit to 
remarkable transactions, it follows that an individual may have 
more names than any Spanish hidalgo can boast. 

Between the age of fifteen and twenty, both sexes chip a 
wedge-shaped piece of the two centre teeth in the upper jaw, 
and at a later period they extract entirely from the lower two 
or three teeth. The first operation is usually performed by 
means of a piece of iron, a flint, or simply a stone. 



176 BURYING THE DEAD BARBAROUS CUSTOM. 

The Damaras bury their dead. Immediately after dissolution, 
the back-bone of the corpse is broken with a stone, 1 and it is 
then bent together with the chin resting on the knees. After- 
wards it is wrapped in ox-hides, and deposited in a hole in the 
ground dug for the purpose, care being taken to place the 
face towards the north. This is done, they say, to remind them 
(the natives) whence they originally came. The Bechuana 
mode of disposing of the dead is very similar. 

Upon the death of one of the tribe, the whole population of 
the place assemble to deplore the event. The howlings and 
lamentations on such occasions are most discordant and dread- 
ful. Tears are considered favorable signs, and the more plenti- 
fully they fall on the corpse, the better. Two months is the usual 
period for a son to mourn his father ; but the time is modified 
according to circumstances. The wealthier the deceased, the 
greater the outward signs of sorrow — a kind of feeling which, 
at any rate, bears some approximation to that of civilized life. 

During the season of mourning, the mourner wears a dark- 
colored skin cap, conically shaped on the top, with certain 
ornaments affixed to it. Round the neck is suspended a " riem," 
to the two extremities of which are attached a small piece of 
ostrich egg-shell. In case of the death of a valued friend, the 
adults will occasionally shave the head completely, and keep it 
in that state for years. 

When a woman in reduced circumstances dies, and leaves a 
child, it is not unfrequently buried alive with its mother. Mr. 
Rath was once fortunate enough to be the means of saving a 
child that was about to be destroyed in this barbarous man- 
ner. 

After having consigned the remains of a chief to his last 
resting-place, they collect his arms, war-dress, etc., and suspend 
them to a pole, or to a tree, at the head of the grave. The 
horns of such oxen as have been killed in commemoration of 
the occasion, are hung up in like manner — a custom also found 
among the natives of Madagascar. The tomb consists of a large 
heap of stones, surrounded by an inclosure of thorn-bushes, no 
doubt to prevent hyaenas and other carnivorous animals from 
extracting the corpse. Sometimes, however, the chief, should 
he have expressed a wish to that effect, instead of being buried, 
is placed in a reclining position on a slightly raised platform in 

1 1 am told that this is not unfrequently done before life is quite extinct ! It is, 
moreover, affirmed, that when the sick man begins to breathe hard, a skin is im- 
mediately thrown over his face, which, no doubt, often causes premature death. 



DEATH OF A CHIEF 



177 



the centre of his own hut, which, in such a case, is surrounded 
by stout and strong palisadings. 




DAMABA GRAVE. 



When a chief feels his dissolution approaching, he calls his 
sons to the bedside, and gives them his benediction, which con- 
sists solely in wishing them an abundance of the good things of 
this world. 

The eldest son of the chiefs favorite wife succeeds his 
father ; and as soon as the obsequies are over, he quits the deso- 
late spot, remaining absent for years. At last, however, he 
returns, and immediately proceeds to his parent's grave, where 
he kneels down, and in a whispering voice tells the deceased 
that he is there with his family, and the cattle that he gave 
him. He then prays for long life, also that his herds may thrive 
and multiply ; and in short, that he may obtain all those things 
that are dear to a savage. This duty being performed, he con- 
12 



178 MALADIES. 

structs a kraal on the identical spot where once the ancestral 
camp stood ; even the huts and the fire-places are placed as 
much as possible in their former position. The chiefs own hut 
is always upon the east side of the inclosure. 

The flesh of the first animal slaughtered here is cooked in a 
particular vessel ; and, when ready, the chief hands a portion 
of it to every one present. An image, consisting of two pieces 
of wood, 1 supposed to represent the household deity, or rather 
the deified parent, is then produced, and moistened in the plat- 
ter of each individual. The chief then takes the image, and, 
after affixing a piece of meat to the upper end of it, he plants 
it in the ground, on the identical spot where his parent was 
accustomed to sacrifice. The first pail of milk produced from 
the cattle is also taken to the grave ; a small quantity is poured 
on the ground, and a blessing asked on the remainder. 

Fever and ophthalmia (eye-sickness) are the prevailing mala- 
dies. The symptoms in fever are head-ache, pains in the neck 
and bowels, general weakness, and ague. It makes its appear- 
ance about April and May, or when the periodical rains have 
ceased. Ophthalmia, on the other hand, begins to show itself 
in September and October, but reaches its maximum when the 
cold season sets in. The first sensation experienced is as if the 
pupil of the eye was too large. A gathering of water in the 
sides and under the eye-lids then ensues. In a short time this 
fluid becomes scaldingly hot, and, if not quickly and carefully 
removed, the pain will be intense. The sight is sometimes 
completely destroyed by this malady. Indeed, one not unfre- 
quently meets with people either totally blind, or minus one 
eye. Europeans are as liable to these inflictions as the natives. 
I speak from experience, having myself been a severe sufferer 
from fever and ophthalmia. 

Comparatively few old people are to be met with in Damara- 
land, for which several reasons may be assigned ; such as their 
cruel civil broils, and their want of compassion for aged and 
disabled individuals. At times, indeed, they would seem to do 
all they can to hasten the death of such sufferers. Some 
instances of this atrocity have come to my knowledge : one of 
the most shocking occurred at Barmen. 

Finding that a certain poor woman, being nearly blind, was 
unable to provide for herself, Mr. Hahn took compassion on the 
helpless creature, and gave her a small quantity of provision 

1 Each caste has a particular tree or shrub consecrated to it. Of this tree or 
shrub a couple of twigs or sticks represent the deceased. 



FOOD MUSIC AND DANCING CUSTOMS. 179 

almost daily. The brother, finding he could not obtain the 
same boon, grew jealous of the preference shown to his sister, 
and secretly resolved to kill her. This he effected by taking 
her to a spot destitute of water, under the pretext that they 
were to dig roots, where she was left to her fate. A boy, who 
accompanied them, asserted, that, on the unnatural brother 
returning to the place some days afterwards, and finding his 
sister still lingering, he beat her about the head with his knob- 
stick until life was extinct. 

Milk is the staple food of the Damaras. They eat or drink 
it out of one and the same dish without its being cleaned, other- 
wise than occasionally by the tongues of dogs. The people 
have a notion that if they wash their " bamboos" (pails), the 
cows would cease to give milk. 

With the exception of the spoils of the chase, they destroy 
but few animals for food. Indeed, unless it be on the occasion 
of a marriage, a birth, a death, or a circumcision, cattle are 
rarely killed. 

The Damaras are very fond of music and dancing. The only 
musical instrument known amongst them is the bow (a kind 
of temporary rude Jews'-harp), from which they contrive to 
extract a sort of wild melody. By this instrument the per- 
former endeavors (and frequently with much success) to imitate, 
musically, the motion peculiar to different animals ; for exam- 
ple, the awkward gallop of the giraffe, the quick trot of the 
zebra and the lively caperings of the beautiful springbok. 

The dance consists mostly of mimic representations of the 
actions of oxen and sheep. The dancers accompany their ges- 
ticulations by monotonous tunes, and keep time by clapping 
their hands, and striking the ground with their feet. 

As with the Ovambo, the eastern custom of taking off the 
sandals, before entering a stranger's house, is observed. 

The Damaras swear " by the tears of their mothers.''' 
This is most touching and beautiful : it elevates the oath to 
heaven. 

Generally speaking, a chief has but nominal power over 
his subjects. On an attempt to punish heavy offenses, the 
guilty individual often coolly decamps with his cattle, and 
takes refuge with another tribe. In minor matters, however, 
from superstitious customs and old habits, the chief is more or 
less obeyed. 

The Damaras are idle creatures. What is not done by 
the women is left to the slaves, who are either descendants of 
impoverished members of their own tribe (is not this another 



ISO DOMESTIC ANIMALS DISEASES OF CATTLE. 

approach to civilization ?) or captured bushmen. The former 
are seized upon when children, and mostly employed as herds- 
men. 

The Damaras have numerals up to a hundred ; notwith- 
standing which, they are sorely puzzled should the sum 
exceed the number of fingers. They count like bad poets, 
who settle their metre by their digits. It is a most amusing 
sight to witness a group trying to reckon a dozen head of 
cattle. 

Though they give names to many of the heavenly bodies, 
they have a very absurd conception of their character, rotatory 
motion, and so forth. Thus, many imagine that the sun which 
sets at night is different from that which rises in the morning. 
Like the children who wondered what was done with the old 
moons, perhaps these savages are equally perplexed to ascer- 
tain what becomes of the old suns. 

The domestic animals indigenous to the country are oxen, 
sheep, and dogs. The latter greatly resemble those mentioned 
as existing among the Namaquas ; but — be it said to the honor 
of the Damaras — they take much more care of these associates 
and companions of man than their southern neighbors. Indeed, 
I have known them to pay as much as two fine oxen for a dog. 

Of the Damara cattle I shall have occasion to speak here- 
after. The sheep are (or rather were) plentiful, and the 
mutton is by no means bad. Though somewhat spare-looking, 
they furnish good joints when cut up. Skin and offal includ- 
ed, they not unfrequently weigh 100 lbs., and sometimes 
as much as 110 to 120 lbs. They have large tails like those 
of the Cape Colony, but they do not arrive at such a formidable 
size. They have no wool ; but a kind of short, glossy hair 
(lying close to the skin) covers the body. The greatest pecu- 
liarity of these animals is their color, which is of every hue and 
tint. 

Cattle are subject to several diseases. The most common 
and dangerous is that which affects the throat, and which in- 
variably proves fatal. Cataracts on the eye, frequently followed 
by blindness and swelling of the feet, are also very common 
ailments. 

Sheep often die from the blood conglomerating in divers 

f laces under the skin, which is called the " blood-sickness." 
t is even asserted that man is affected by this disease (some- 
times from partaking the flesh of the infected animal), and that 
the only thing to save him under such circumstances is instantly 
to cut away the parts affected. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

DISPATCH A MESSENGER TO CAPE-TOWN — DEPART FROM BARMEN EIKHAMS 

EYEBRECHT DEPART FROM EIKHAMS ELEPHANT FOUNTAIN TUNOBIS 

ENORMOUS QUANTITIES OF GAME SHOOTING BY NIGHT AT THE 

"SKARM" THE AUTHOR HAS SEVERAL NARROW ESCAPES CHECKED IN 

ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NGAMI THE PARTY SET OUT ON THEIR RE- 
TURN REACH ELEPHANT FOUNTAIN HOW TO MAKE SOAP PIT-FALLS 

A NIGHT ADVENTURE GAME SCARCE JOIN HANS THE PARTY NEARLY 

POISONED ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY A TUB ADVENTURE EXTRA- 
ORDINARY MORTALITY AMONGST THE FISH AUTHOR NARROWLY ES- 
CAPES DROWNING ARRIVAL OF THE MISSIONARY VESSEL LETTERS 

FROM HOME MR. GALTON RETURNS TO EUROPE REFLECTIONS. 

The vessel which brought the missionary stores to Walfisch 
Bay every second year, was expected in December, and, by this 
opportunity, we hoped to be able to return to Europe, or at 
least to the Cape. In order, however, to insure a passage, Mr. 
Galton dispatched a messenger to his banker in Cape-town, to 
make the needful arrangements. In the mean time, as we had 
still several months on our hands, Galton resolved to employ the 
interval in making an excursion to the eastward, partly with 
the view of penetrating to the Lake Ngami, our original object, 
and partly to become better acquainted with great Namaqua- 
land and its semi-civilized inhabitants. Moreover, the prospect 
of good sport with the larger game, which every one said we 
were sure to meet with in abundance, was a further induce- 
ment to undertake the journey. 

It was arranged that Hans should proceed to Walfisch Bay 
with one of the vehicles to fetch the remainder of the stores, 
etc., whilst Galton and myself, with the other wagon, prose- 



182 DEPART FROM BARMEN E IK HAMS. 

cuted our journey to the eastward. A rendezvous having been 
appointed where Hans was to meet us, we left Barmen in the 
afternoon of the 12th of August. In about three days we 
reached Eikhams, the residence, as already said, of Jonker 
Afrikaner, where my friend, before finally leaving the country, 
was anxious to settle certain disputes between the native 
tribes. 

Eikhams is very prettily situated on the slope of a hill, 
bare at the summit, but at its base adorned with very fine 
groups of mimosas, among which a tributary to the Swakop 
winds its course. It was the only spot in South Africa where 
I ever saw anything resembling a twilight. This was produced 
from the reflection of the setting sun on the peaks of the 
picturesque mountain-ranges, by which it is almost entirely sur- 
rounded. 

Eikhams is abundantly supplied with water from three or 
four copious springs, and, the site of these springs being 
elevated, the land in the lower ground is easily irrigated. The 
natives construct gardens, wherein they grow many sorts of 
vegetables, some of which arrive at perfection. The soil is 
exceedingly fertile, and seems well suited to the cultivation of 
tobacco. Taking it as a whole, Eikhams is the prettiest place I 
ever saw either in Damara-land or Namaqua-land. 

About twenty minutes' walk from Eikhams is a bountiful hot 
spring. The water, just where it gushes out from the lime- 
stone-rock, has a temperature of 194 degrees of Fahrenheit. 
Mr. Hahn informed me that here, on one occasion, he boiled a 
piece of meat, and that, though not quite so good as when 
dressed in the ordinary manner, it was not unpalatable. 

Eikhams, as already said, was formerly a Rhenish missionary 
station. It was founded as far back as 1843 by the Rev. C. H. 
Halm, resident at New Barmen in Damara-land. After a time, 
however, it was given up to the Wesleyan society, which sent 
Mr. Haddy to reside there. This gentleman erected an ex- 
cellent dwelling-house, and a most substantial church. For a 
while the mission flourished, but was latterly abandoned, and 
the station is now rapidly falling into decay. This, I am sorry 
to say, has been the fate of many other institutions of a similar 
nature in Southern Africa. 

Amongst other gifts, Mr. Gralton presented Jonker with a 
splendid cocked hat and richly gilt uniform. A court dress, in 
fact, that had once probably adorned the person of some great 
man when paying his respects to majesty, and with which the 
African chief expressed himself highly gratified. 



A NEW ACQUAINTANCE 



183 



^\ 




JONKEK AFRIKANER, 



Being desirous of obtaining a likeness of so famous a personage 
as Afrikaner, I requested him one day to put on this costume, 
and allow me to take his portrait. He good-naturedly consented 
to my solicitation, and on the following morning appeared duly 
appareled. We rather expected to have a laugh at him, since 
his gait and figure were somewhat unprepossessing ; but we 
were disappointed. He marched up to his seat with as much 
ease and dignity as if he were familiar with the usage of courts. 

During our stay at Eikhams, we became acquainted with a 
Mr. Eyebrecht, formerly in the missionary employ, but now 
Jonker's right-hand man. In addition to excellent English and 
Dutch, he spoke the Namaqua and the Damara tongues rather 
fluently. As he was well-acquainted with the country, Mr. 
Gralton secured his services for our tour to the eastward, and he 
proved of the greatest assistance. 

On arriving at Eikhams, Mr. Galton imagined that his business 
with Jonker would soon be arranged; but in this part of the 



1S4 ELEPHANT FOUNTAIN. 

world expedition is not the order of the day, and we were there- 
fore so long delayed as to prevent our departure until the 30th 
of August. 




WILD boar's head. 



In the course of our journey, we encountered a great number 
and variety of wild animals, and consequently our larder was 
well supplied. Indeed, in a few hours, on a certain night, I 
bagged no less than three hartebeests, two pallahs, and five 
zebras, and, had I felt inclined, might have shot double this 
number. We also observed a few wild boars. 

After a fortnight's harassing travel, we arrived at Elephant 
Fountain, formerly a Wesleyan missionary station. It was found- 
ed in 1847 by the Rev. Mr. Tindal ; but had of late years 
been abandoned in consequence of a destructive fever, which 
carried off many of the natives. Even the few Europeans, set- 
tled there, suffered severely. It was situated within the territory 
of the chief, Amral, who was born and bred in the Cape-Colony, 
and, if I am not misinformed, was raised to his present dignity 
partly through missionary influence. 

Elephant Fountain is chiefly inhabited by Hill-Damaras, who 
cultivate extensive gardens of tobacco, etc. Game was abund- 
and thereabouts, but we had not then time to look after it. 

From Elephant Fountain, eastward, the country was repre- 
sented as very sandy and bushy ; and, as our oxen were in a very 
indifferent condition, we determined to leave the wagon behind 
in charge of John Mortar, the cook, and to prosecute our journey 
with pack-and-ride oxen. Amral, with a great number of the 
tribe, Expressed a wish to accompany us, chiefly for the sake of 
the anticipated sport. As we traveled on, we were joined by 
Lambert, his son, and other Namaquas, with their attendants, 
till at last our party amounted to several hundred individuals. 



TUNOBIS. 185 

After no little inconvenience and misery, on account of the 
great heat, the terrible drought, and scarcity of pasturage about 
the few and widely-separated watering-places, we reached 
Tunobis, or Otjombinde, on the 3rd of October. According 
to Mr. Gal ton's observations, this place is situated in latitude 
21 deg. 55 rain., and 21 deg. 55 min. east longitude. 

The bushmen, who inhabited these parts, declared that the 
country between here and the Ngami was then impassable, and 
that any attempt on our part to reach it would be certain de- 
struction to ourselves and cattle. Though we did not altogether 
credit their story, we felt that, under the circumstances, it 
would have been highly imprudent to proceed further. 

From a rough calculation, we concluded that we could not 
be above nine or ten days' journey from the lake ; and it was, 
therefore, with no little reluctance that we gave up the attempt. 
However, it was all for the best ; and we ought, indeed, to be 
grateful to the natives for their truthful information. From 
after experience, I am quite confident that, had we tried to push 
on that year, nothing could have saved us and our beasts of 
burden from perishing from thirst. After leaving Tunobis, we 
should not have met with water for at least three days and 
a-half of actual travel, besides the necessary delays. To perform 
this, even with fresh animals, would, perhaps, have been a thing 
unheard-of in these regions ; but the difficulty was magnified 
by the state of our cattle, which were now reduced to skele- 
tons. Indeed, even before reaching Tunobis, some of them had 
been left behind from sheer exhaustion. 

I must confess that, on first perusing my friend's narrative, I 
was somewhat startled on coming upon his pleasant assertion 
that he did not much care about reaching the Lake Ngami. 
It is true that, when landing at Walfisch Bay, we had but little 
hope of arriving there ; but, at least for my own part, I had 
always conceived the great goal of our journey to be precisely 
the Ngami. Moreover, with regard to his supposition, that the 
country hence towards the lake was comparatively open and free 
from bushes, and that, consequently, a road to it could be traced 
without the slightest difficulty, I can only say that, shortly after 
leaving Tunobis — not to mention the scarcity of water — the 
bush became so dense, and the thorns so tormenting, that I 
found it necessary to make immense detours, and even then all 
our clothes, pack-saddles, etc., were literally torn to ribbons. 

The few days that we remained at Tunobis were spent profit- 
ably and pleasantly. Besides much interesting information of 
the country, derived from the bushmen, part of which has since 



186 QUANTITIES OF GAME NARROW ESCAPES. 

been substantiated, we had abundant shooting. From the ab- 
sence of water within a distance of two or three days' journey 
of the place, the number of animals that nightly congregated 
here to quench their thirst was truly astonishing. 

To give the reader an idea of the immense quantity of game 
hereabouts, I may mention that, in the course of the few days we 
remained at Tunobis, our party shot, amongst other animals, up- 
wards of thirty rhinoceroses. One night, indeed, when quite 
alone, I killed, in the space of five hours (independently of other 
game) no less than eight of those beasts, amongst which were 
three distinct species. And, it is my belief that, if I had perse- 
vered, I might have destroyed double the number. 1 But I never 
took delight in useless slaughter. In our case — and I think I 
may say in all cases where I have been concerned in killing a 
great number of wild beasts — not a pound of flesh was ever 
wasted ; for, what we did not require for our own use, was de- 
voured by the natives. 

As another evidence of the enormous quantity of game in this 
region, I may state that the fountain in question, which was a 
copious one — nay, apparently inexhaustible — was almost night- 
ly drank dry. 

On several occasions, I had narrow escapes from being gored 
by the horns of these ugly monsters. Thus, one animal, on re- 
ceiving a mortal wound, charged me with such fury as to carry 
completely away the fore part of my " skarm," and I only saved 
my life by throwing myself with great force against the oppo- 
site wall, which fortunately gave way. 

At another time, I was walking leisurely up to a huge female 
white rhinoceros, that Mr. GUlton had killed during the preceding 
night, when all at once its calf, about the size of an ox, rushed 
upon me from behind the carcass. Its movements were so 
rapid, that I had neither time to get out of its way nor to level my 
gun, but passing the barrel, like a stick, against its chest, I fired, 
and, as luck would have it, the ball caused the calf to swerve on 
one side, and take itself off. A short time afterwards, and at no 
great distance from our encampment, it was found dead. 

Being tired of shooting, and having got all the informa- 
tion we could from the bushmen, we bent our steps homewards. 
Our failure in not reaching the Lake Ngami deeply mortified 
me. Night and day I was haunted by the thought. Taking 

1 When we thus shot at night, we generally ensconced ourselves in a " skarm," 
that is, a small circular inclosure, six or eight feet in diameter, the walls (usually 
consisting of loose stones) being about two feet in height. 



NECESSITY A VIRTUE. 187 

everything into consideration, I could not help thinking that, 
under more favorable circumstances, success would crown my 
endeavors, were I determined to renew the attempt. Accord- 
ingly, I made up my mind first to see my friend safe from the 
African shore, and then to return as soon as the rains had 
fallen. 

I communicated my resolve to Mr. Galton, who at once fully 
entered into my views ; and, as I had neither oxen nor wagons, he 
kindly promised to supply me with both ; as also with such ar- 
ticles of barter as his own reduced stores afforded. 

After nearly a month's absence, we found ourselves safe at 
Elephant Fountain. Notwithstanding we had been almost 
solely living on fresh meat during this time, we had only used the 
one-half of a small copper-cap box 1 of salt ! I mention the cir- 
cumstance to show that salt is not strictly necessary to man's 
existence. Moreover, excepting once or twice at the missionary 
table, we had not tasted bread for many months. I had so t©~ 
tally forgotten the use of it, that, after our return to Barmen, 
on being entertained at Mr. Hahn's house, I finished my meal 
without noticing the piece of bread which was conspicuous 
enough alongside my plate. Our men grumbled a little at first 
at being deprived of bread ; but they also soon got accustomed 
to do without it, nor did the least inconvenience arise from its 
absence. I have always heard that the want of bread and vege-- 
tables is the greatest hardship a man can experience,. Be that 
as it may, the human system — as the above facts demonstrate— 
is capable of reconciling itself to nearly all conditions and eju> 
cumstances. 

The men left in charge of the wagons were well ; but poor 
John Mortar, the cook, looked pale and thin. On asking him 
the cause, he pointed to the fire where our food was cooked, 
and, with something like an oath, exclaimed — "Sir, look at 
that pot ! I have been watching it these seven-and-twenty 
days and nights, and, after all, I find that my labor is. thrown 
away !" 

Shortly after leaving Elephant Fountain, John., it seems, had 
set about making soap, of which our supply was exhausted. 
Through some mistake, however, he used unslack.ed 1 lime in- 
stead of the alkali obtained in the country from the ash of the 
native soap-bush. This at once accounted for his failure in re- 
gard to the article itself, and his own emaciated. appearance. 

1 A copper-cap bos, for the information of my female readfers, ia about the si^e 
of a pill-bos. 



1S8 PIT-FALLS A NIGHT ADVENTURE. 

Game, as has been said, was very abundant near to Ele- 
phant Fountain ; and, by means of spacious pit-falls, great num- 
bers of wild animals were almost nightly captured. The whole 
ground in the neighborhood of Zw'art Nosop, which flowed past 
the place, was literally a succession of pit-falls, and they were 
so cleverly arranged and well concealed, that it required the 
utmost caution in walking about. Even people thoroughly ac- 
quainted with the locality ran great risk of being precipitated 
into these dangerous traps. 

Lions were numerous, and very daring. From time to time, 
several of Amral's people, whilst lying in ambush for game at 
night, had been either carried off* or fearfully mangled by these 
beasts. Finding that I was somewhat incautious, the chief ex- 
pressed the greatest apprehensions for my safety, more especially 
as I was usually quite alone. 

On one of these occasions, I must confess to having felt rather 
uncomfortable. I had posted myself in a dense mimosa brake, 
commanding the approach to the Zwart Nosop river at a point 
much frequented by wild animals, and flanked by an immense 
pit-fall. The darkness was deepened by surrounding thick 
foliage and high river-banks. Indeed, so black was the night, 
that I could not discern even the muzzle of my gun. The 
gloominess of my solitude was increased by the occasional 
"Qua-qua!" of the night-heron, which made the succeeding 
hush more dreary ; during which even the falling of leaves, and 
rustling of insects among dry grass, was hailed as a relief to the 
oppressive dumbness. To a man in a savage wilderness, and 
without a companion, silence, especially when combined with 
utter privation of light, is inexpressibly solemn. It strikes the 
mind not merely as a negation, but as a threatening presence. 
It seems ominous. I shall never forget the loneliness and sense 
of desolation I felt on this occasion. It was past midnight, and 
still no game appeared. 

Suddenly, I fancied I heard the purr and breathing of an ani- 
mal close behind me ; but, as no other indications of any living 
thing ensued, I attributed the sounds to a heated imagination. 
All at once, however, the dismal stillness was disturbed by the 
quicksteps of a troop of pallahs, descending the stony slope lead- 
ing direct to my ambush. Stooping as low as possible, in order to 
catch their outline, I awaited their arrival with my gun on full 
cock. Nearer and nearer they came, till at last I fancied the 
leader was on the verge of the pit-fall ; but just at that moment, 
there was a low stifled growl, a rush, and then a faint cry as of 
some dying animal. All was again silent. Though the impene- 



A NIGHT ADVENTURE. 189 

trable darkness prevented me from seeing anything. I could no 
longer doubt that I was in the immediate vicinity of a lion. I 
freely acknowledge that I felt awed, well knowing that were 
he to attack me, I should be completely at his mercy. My situa- 
tion was critical in the extreme. Straining eyes and ears to 
discover the beast's whereabout, I held my breath in fearful sus- 
pense, whilst every nerve was strung to the highest pitch. Pres- 
ently, I heard, to my astonishment, the report of a gun within 
fifty paces of my hiding-place ; then a second and a third shot. 
This made matters worse ; for I now became apprehensive that 
the men, not aware of my presence, might direct their fire 
towards me. I therefore sprang to my feet and vociferated — 
" Who's there ?" " Sir! the lion — the lion !" replied Eyebrecht, 
for it was no other. The next instant he stood trembling be- 
fore me. He had, it appeared, been sent by Amral to call me 
back, but had encountered the beast in his path, and fired in 
order to frighten him away. 

Though I did not exactly comply with the wishes of the 
chief, I deemed it advisable, after what had passed, to remove 
to a more open place where I was less likely to be taken by 
surprise. Early next morning a number of Hottentots came to 
examine the ground, when, as I had expected, we found the 
foot-prints of a lion at the very back of my " skarm," and 
scarcely distant the length of the gun-barrel from my own per- 
son, where he had evidently been crouching previously to leap- 
ing on the pallah (whose cry I had heard in the night), but 
which, though wounded, had effected its escape. How far the 
beast intended me mischief is hard to say, but in any case, my 
position had not been an enviable one. 

On our return-journey to Barmen, it rained heavily, and in 
some places the landscape looked quite revived. Many migra- 
tory birds, such as the swallow, the cuckoo, and others, had 
again made their appearance. 

The animals which, during the dry season, are compelled to 
gather round the springs and other permanent waters, were 
enabled, by the late rains, to scatter themselves over a large 
extent of country, and were now difficult to find. There can 
be little doubt that the instinctive power of animals — domes- 
ticated as well as wild — is capable of catching the scent of 
humid winds and green herbage, at a very great distance. 
Thus I have often seen oxen turn their heads towards the quar- 
ter where distant lightning indicated that rain had fallen, and 
sniff with evident pleasure the breeze produced by colder air. 
Mr. Moffat, the missionary, mentions an instance where a great 



190 ANIMALS SCENTING HUMID WINDS, ETC. 

number of cattle were entirely lost, solely, as he supposes, from 
this cause. 

"Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqua-land," says 
the Reverend gentlemen, " Afrikaner thus lost the greater part 
of his cattle. One evening, a strong wind commenced blowing 
from the north ; it smelt of green grass, as the natives expressed 
it. The cattle not being in folds, started off after dark. The 
circumstance being unprecedented, it was supposed they had 
merely wandered out to the common, where they were accus- 
tomed to graze ; but it was found, after much search, that some 
thousands of cattle had directed their course to the north. A 
iew were recovered ; but the majority escaped to the Damara 
country, after having been pursued hundreds of miles." 

For my own part, I have frequently passed through localities 
abounding with game ; and repassing them in a short time, 
I have found them deserted without any apparent cause. As I 
proceeded, however, I have discovered them in quite different 
quarters, and ascertained that the attraction has been the young 
grass, which was either produced by the moisture of the 
atmosphere, or from the natives having fired the old grass. 
The rapidity with which parched and sun-burnt pasturages, in 
tropical climes, are converted by any of these causes into luxu- 
riant savannahs, is incredible, and can only be duly estimated by 
those who have themselves witnessed such changes. 

A stage on this side of Eikhams, we encountered Hans, who 
had met with a little adventure in the neighborhood of Schepp- 
man's Mountain, where he had one day unyoked. He had been 
out in search of game, when on his return he was astonished to 
observe a number of natives rushing towards the wagon, no 
doubt with the intention of plundering it, and probably of 
spearing the men who had it in charge. On seeing Hans ap- 
proach with a gun, however, they all took to their heels, but 
some were captured; and, after they had undergone a sound 
drubbing, and been threatened with death should they ever at- 
tempt a similar outrage, they were allowed to depart. Not 
many hours elapsed before these very savages returned to beg for 
tobacco. 

We were sorry to find that our cattle looked thin and misera- 
ble. Indeed, Hans had experienced the greatest difficulty in 
bringing on the wagon. Restored tranquillity had given confi- 
dence to the Damaras, who were now flocking in great numbers 
with their cattle to the banks of the Swakop, the result of which 
was that every blade of grass was consumed for miles around on 
both sides of the river. This was, indeed, sad news, as our route 



ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY. 191 

lay precisely through these parts, and our draught animals were, 
by this time, in a distressingly exhausted and reduced state. It 
required some efforts on our side to overcome these difficulties, 
and we lost no time in retracing our steps. After Mr. G-alton 
had disposed of some of the superfluous goods to the natives, and 
exchanged the run-away mules to Jonker for cattle, we bade 
farewell to the hospitable hearth of the missionaries at Barmen 
and Richterfeldt, and proceeded quickly on our road to Walfisch 
Bay. 

On arriving at the confluence of the Swakop and the Tjobis 
rivers, we had a narrow escape from being poisoned, as the Hill- 
Damaras had mixed the juice of the euphorbia candelabrum with 
the stagnant pool-water, for the purpose of killing buffaloes, 
which were numerous hereabouts. Fortunately, by having 
gone in advance of our party, in the hope of obtaining a shot at 
these animals, I discovered the poisoned water (easily detected by 
its peculiar clay color) in time to prevent any serious mischief. 
Some of the dogs partook of it ; but having previously taken 
their fill of clear, pure water, they escaped with a heavy vomit- 
ing. At this identical place, Hans had, a short time previously, 
found several dead and dying buffaloes that had been pois- 
oned. 

The symptoms with men, after imbibing the poison in ques- 
tion — not the least of the many dangers to which the African 
traveler is almost daily exposed — is generally a fullness of 
the system, quick pulsation, giddiness, and a violent " flesh- 
quake." 

Though our cattle suffered dreadfully from want of pasturage, 
we reached Walfisch Bay, on the 5th of December, without the 
loss of a single ox. 

The missionary vessel had not yet arrived ; but there were 
two others — a brig and a barque. The master of the first was 
an Englishman, in search of guano ; as also of nitrate of soda, 
which was reported to exist on this coast. He imagined that 
he had really found the latter valuable salt, and whispered 
his discovery to us as a great secret. On examining the speci- 
mens in his possession, however, it was found to be nothing 
more nor less than pieces of common soap ! — part, probably, of 
the cargo of some wrecked vessel. The action of the water 
had so altered the soap in appearance, that the mistake was 
really excusable. On learning from us the real nature of his 
supposed prize, the poor captain, as maybe imagined, evinced 
no little chagrin and disappointment. 

The second ship was an American, in search of the sperm 



192 A TUB ADVENTURE. 

whale, which is not unfrequently found in these waters. Our 
shabby and tattered garments and unshaved faces induced the 
captain to regard us at first with suspicion, taking us not 
improbably for outlaws, unfit for other society than savage 
men and beasts. By degrees, however, his mind, as to our 
proper character, was set at rest ; and we were hospitably 
entertained on board his ship, which was scrupulously clean 
and orderly. 

The crews of many of the whaling and guano ships who 
were in the habit of frequenting Walfisch Bay had behaved 
very outrageously, either by plundering, or wantonly destroy- 
ing the contents of the temporary store-house. On one occa- 
sion they had been amusingly baffled in their dishonest and dis- 
reputable practices. At the time of which I am now speaking, 
the store was tenanted by Mr. Dickson, the trader, who pos- 
sessed some very fine lion cubs. These a certain captain deter- 
mined to purloin ; and, for that purpose, sent a number of his 
men in the dead of the night to carry them away. The animals 
were usually kept in a large tub or barrel ; but it so happened 
that, on the very evening the master had fixed on for the execu- 
tion of his plan, they had been removed elsewhere ; and that 
Mr. Bassingweight, one of Mr. Dickson's employes, had taken up 
his abode in their old quarters. The sailors entered the build- 
ing unperceived, and began rapidly to roll the tub away. Mr. 
Bassingweight at first imagined he was dreaming; but, as the 
motion became more violent, the thumping of his head against 
the wooden walls soon brought him to his senses, on which he 
roared out most lustily. The unexpected and strange noise so 
terrified the sailors, that they made a precipitate retreat. 

The next morning, the captain, having previously had the 
audacity to possess himself of one of Mr. Dickson's horses, 
came riding, very drunk, to his house, and in an imperious and 
impudent tone demanded the cubs to be given up to him. At 
the same time he thrust an immense dagger through a dish of 
pancakes, which a servant was busy preparing. Mr. Dickson 
was not at home ; but his wife, who was a shrewd and deter- 
mined woman, not only refused compliance, but commanded 
the fellow instantly to dismount, and go about his business. 
On his hesitating, she unceremoniously pulled him off the 
horse, and threatened to knock him down if he did not imme- 
diately leave the house. Fearing, however, that he might 
return with his crew during the night to revenge himself, and 
perhaps take forcible possession of the young lions, she ordered 
Bassingweight, and another of her servants (having previously 



A FIGHT. 193 

primed them with cordials to raise their spirits and courage) to 
proceed, at dusk, towards the Bay to watch the enemy's move- 
ments. Mrs. Dickson's surmise proved correct ; for the men 
had not gone far before they distinguished the clamorous voices 
of a number of persons who were rapidly approaching them. 
Squatting behind some sand hillocks they allowed the marau- 
ders to come within range, when they fired a shot over their 
heads, which had the desired effect. Without waiting for fur- 
ther hostility, Jack instantly bolted. Elated by their easy suc- 
cess, Bassingweight and his companion instantly gave chase, 
and on coming up with the fugitives, a terrible pele-mele fight 
ensued. Notwithstanding one of the men was almost a giant 
in strength and stature, the odds were too great, and they were 
on the point of being overpowered. At this critical moment 
Bassingweight called loudly for assistance, hoping that some of 
the natives, who occasionally slept on the beach, might come 
to the rescue. To their inexpressible relief up rose from 
among a number of empty barrels, which happened to be 
ranged along the shore, a bushman. His appearance acted 
like magic, and instantly turned the cards in their favor ; for 
the sailors, as it was afterwards ascertained, imagining the casks 
to be savages also, and dreading probably their poisoned arrows, 
were seized with a panic, and fled precipitately in every direc- 
tion, some rushing up to their necks in water, whilst others 
actually fell on their knees begging forgiveness ! Unless for 
the bushman, Bassingweight assured me that himself and com- 
panion must have been inevitably killed. 

The bay presented at this time a most extraordinary specta- 
cle, the whole being covered with one mass of dead fish. We 
could only account for so unusual a sight by supposing that an 
epidemic had occurred amongst them, more especially as it did 
not appear to be confined to one or two species of the finny 
tribe, but to all which are indigenous to the coast — the gigantic 
shark not excepted. In some of the more sheltered spots, the 
fish lay so deep, that I remember on one occasion to have had 
some difficulty in forcing my way through in a small mackintosh 
punt. 

As may well be expected, the effluvium arising from such 
a mass of decomposed matter was offensive and sickening. 
Whether all the fish died, or the stench drove the survivors 
away, I am unable to decide ; but certain it is, that hardly a 
fish was left in the bay. On our first arrival we captured large 
quantities by means of a small seine-net, but now all our 
attempts proved futile. 
13 



194 NARROW ESCAPE OF THE AUTHOR. 

An incident occurred to me one day which might have been 
attended with fatal consequences. A cutter had lately arrived 
from the Cape, the object of the captain being to harpoon the 
" humpback" whale, which at this season of the year abounds 
in the vicinity of Walfisch Bay. I had paid a visit to the craft 
in the punt mentioned. On my return it came on to blow hard 
from the land. In calm weather the punt could be managed 
with great ease ; but, on account of her flat bottom and light 
construction, it was impossible to make head against a stiff 
breeze. When within a stone's throw of the shore, she became 
unmanageable, and, for the space of fully one hour, all my 
efforts to propel her were unavailing. At last, finding my 
strength failing, I made one more desperate effort, and, having 
fortunately succeeded in getting her into shallow water, I 
leaped over the side and ultimately brought her to a place of 
safety. My arms were quite paralyzed, and for a while I was 
unable to lift them from my sides. Had the struggle lasted 
another minute, nothing could have saved me from being blown 
out into the open sea, and, as there was a gale of wind at the 
time, there can be no doubt as to the result. 

On the 31st of December, being then at Scheppmansdorf, 
I received intelligence that the long-expected missionary vessel 
had arrived, and that she was to sail in a few days for St. 
Helena. On the following morning, the first day of the year 
1852, a parcel of European letters were handed to me. It was 
now fully twenty months since I had heard any news of my 
friends, and I hailed this token of their interest in my behalf 
with rapture. But, alas ! — though I had much to be thankful 
for — the intelligence was damped by the unexpected tidings of 
the death of a younger brother. Poor fellow! notwithstanding 
he and I could never agree during life, I loved him dearly. 
His last words, uttered in delirium, were said to have been 
addressed to me, imploring me to come to his assistance. He 
died at Kio Janeiro of that scourge, the yellow fever. Peace 
be to his memory ! The cholera was also raging in Swe- 
den, and I trembled for the news that might next reach me. 

I proceeded immediately to Walfisch Bay, to bid farewell to 
Galton. John Williams, John Mortar, and Timbo were to 
accompany him to St. Helena, whence they were to be for- 
warded to Cape-Town. Hans — in himself a host — John Allen, 
and John St. Helena, agreed to remain with me. 

My specimens of natural history, which had been collected 
with much care and trouble, and which had cost me many a 
sleepless night, I consigned to Galton's care. They consisted 



DEPARTURE OF MR. GALTON REFLECTIONS. 195 

of about five hundred bird-skins, nearly double that number of 
insects, and a few odds and ends, I also took this opportunity 
to forward several letters to my European friends. 

Galton appeared delighted with the prospect of soon return- 
ing to civilized life. Though he had proved himself to be 
capable of enduring hardships and fatigue as well as any of us, 
it was evident that he had had enousrh of it. 

O 

The schooner was to have sailed on the 5th of January; but, 
in consequence of the arrival of " The Grecian" man-of-war, 
then cruising ofF the west coast, it was postponed till the next 
day. As the schooner gradually disappeared from view, I 
began to feel in full force the lonelines of my situation, and the 
loss of my friend's company. It would seem that the further 
the object of our esteem and regard is separated from us, the 
better we are able to appreciate its value. Galton's excellent 
disposition and even temper had enabled us to struggle through 
all difficulties very happily together ; and it was, therefore, 
with sincere regret that I parted from him. I whispered a 
prayer for his safe return to the bosom of his family. It was 
heard ; for, though the passage proved of long duration, he 
reached England in safety, after an absence of two years. 

Not long subsequently to his return, the Royal Geo- 
graphical Society, I was happy to learn, bestowed upon him 
their gold medal, as a reward for his services in the cause of 
science. 



CHAPTER XX. 

CAPTURE OF YOUNG OSTRICHES NATURAL. HISTORY OF THE OSTRICH: 

WHERE FOUND ; DESCRIPTION OF ; SIZE ; WEIGHT ; AGE ; VOICE ; STRENGTH ; 
SPEED ; FOOD ; WATER ; BREEDING ; INCUBATION ; CUNNING ; STONES 

FOUND IN EGGS ; CHICKS ; FLESH BRAIN IN REQUEST AMONGST THE 

ROMANS EGGS HIGHLY PRIZED USES OF EGG-SHELLS FEATHERS AN 

ARTICLE OF COMMERCE OSTRICH PARASOLS THE BIRD'S DESTRUCTIVE 

PROPENSITIES HABITS RESEMBLES QUADRUPEDS DOMESTICATION 

THE CHASE SNAKES INGENIOUS DEVICE ENEMIES OF THE OSTRICH. 

Ostriches are at all times more or less numerous on the 
Naarip Plain, but more particularly so at this season, on account 
of the naras (of which mention was made in the second chap- 
ter) being now ripe. 

Whilst waiting for the missionary vessel, previously to the 
departure of Mr. Galton, I made several trips between the Bay 
and Scheppmansdorf, in order to arrange matters for my intend- 
ed journey to the Ngami. On one of these occasions I was 
accompanied by my friend. When we had proceeded little 
more than half the distance, and in a part of the plain entirely 
destitute of vegetation, we discovered a male and female os- 
trich with a brood of young ones about the size of ordinary barn- 
door fowls. This was a sight we had long been looking for, as 
G-alton had been requested by Professor Owen to procure a few 
craniums of the young of this bird, in order to settle certain 
anatomical questions. Accordingly, we forthwith dismounted 
from our oxen, and gave chase, which proved of no ordinary 
interest. 

The moment the parent birds became aware of our intention, 
they set off at full speed — the female leading the way, the young 



MANOEUVRES OF THE OLD BIRD. 197 

following in her wake, and the cock, though at some little 
distance, bringing up the »ear of the family-party. It was 
very touching to observe the anxiety the old birds evinced for 
the safety of their progeny. Finding that we were quickly 
gaining upon them, the male at once slackened his pace, and 
diverged somewhat from his course ; but, seeing that we were 
not to be diverted from our purpose, he again increased his 
speed, and, with wings drooping so as almost to touch the 
ground, he hovered round us, now in wide circles, and then de- 
creasing the circumference till he came almost within pistol-shot, 
when he abruptly threw himself on the ground, and struggled 
desperately to regain his legs, as it appeared, like a bird that 
has been badly wounded. Having previously fired at him, I 
really thought he was disabled, and made quickly towards him. 
But this was only a ruse on his part ; for, on my nearer ap- 
proach, he slowly rose and began to run in an opposite direction 
to that of the female, who by this time was considerably a-head 
with her charge. 

After about an hour's severe chase, we secured nine of the 
brood; and, though it consisted of about double that number, 
we found it necessary to be contented with what we had 
bagged. 1 

On returning to the Bay, however, the next morning in a 
mule-cart, Mr. Gralton again encountered the same birds with 
the remainder of the family ; and, after a short race, captured 
six more of the chicks. 

The ostrich (which, from possessing the rudiments of a gall- 
bladder, and the absence of wings fit for flight, seems to form a 
kind of a connecting link between the two great families of 
mammalia and aves) is an inhabitant of a large portion of Africa, 
but rarely extends further east than the deserts of Arabia. 
Throughout , the Indian Archipelago, the family of birds (of 
which the ostrich is the leading type) is represented by the cas- 
sowary; in Australia, by the emeu ; in the southern extremity 
of the western hemisphere, by the rhea ; and even in Europe, 
though somewhat departing from the type, it has its representa- 
tive in the stately bustard. 

Anything like a scientific description of the ostrich would 
here be out of place ; but it may be proper to mention that the 
lower part of the neck and the body of the mature male bird 
are of a deep glossy black, intermingled with a few whitish 

1 The lithograph facing this chapter is a faithful representation of the chase 
described, which took place shortly before sunset. 



198 THE OSTRICH SPEED. 

feathers, only visible when the plumage is ruffled. " In the 
female, the general color of the feathers is of a grayish, or ashy 
brown, slightly fringed with white. In both sexes the large 
plumes of the wings and tail are beautifully white." 

The ostrich, when full grown, stands no less than from seven 
to eight feet, and instances are recorded where individual birds 
have attained as much as nine. Its weight is proportionate. 
Judging from what I have experienced in carrying the dead 
body, it is not less, perhaps, than two or three hundred pounds. 
Indeed, there are persons who believe that the mature bird, 
when in prime condition, as a butcher would say, will attain a 
weight of thirty stone. 

I could never obtain any data that would enable me to form 
a correct estimate of the age of the ostrich : but it may fairly be 
concluded that he lives between twenty and thirty years. 

The cry of the ostrich so greatly resembles that of a lion, as 
occasionally to deceive even the natives. It is usually heard 
early in the morning, and, at times, also at night. 

The strength of the ostrich is enormous. A single blow from 
its gigantic foot (it always strikes forward) is sufficient to pros- 
trate, nay to kill, many beasts of prey, such as the hyEena, the 
panther, the wild dog, the jackal, and others. 

The ostrich is exceedingly swift of foot ; under ordinary cir- 
cumstances out-running a fleet horse: "What time she lifteth 
up herself on high, she scorneth the horse and its rider." On 
special occasions, and for a short distance, its speed is truly 
marvelous — perhaps not much less than a mile in half a minute 
Its feet appear hardly to touch the ground, and the length be- 
tween each stride is not unfrequently twelve to fourteen feet. 
Indeed, if we are to credit the testimony of Mr. Adanson, who 
says he witnessed the fact in Senegal, such is the rapidity and 
muscular power of the ostrich, that, even with two men mount- 
ed on his back, he will outstrip an English horse in speed ! 
The ostrich, moreover, is long-winded, if I may use the expres- 
sion ; so that it is a work of time to exhaust the bird. 

The food of the ostrich, in its wild state, consists of the seeds, 
tops and buds of various shrubs and other plants. 1 But it is 
often difficult to conceive how it can manage to live at all, for 
one not unfrequently meets with it in regions apparently desti- 
tute of vegetation of any kind : 

1 At the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, where at this moment several of 
these birds are alive, the ostrich is fed on a mixture of oats, barley, chaff, and cab- 
bage, of which the respective quantities are as follow :— oats, one pint ; barley, 
one pint ; chaff, half a gallon ; and cabbage, four pounds. 



THE BREEDING SEASON INCUBATION. 199 

" A region of emptiness, howling and drear, 
Which man hath abandoned from famine and fear ; 
Which the ostrich and lizard inhabit alone, 
With the twilight bat from the old hollow stone ; 
Where grass, nor herb, nor shrub take root, 
Save poisonous thorns that pierce the foot ; 
And the bitter-melon for food and drink, 
Is the pilgrim's fare by the salt lake's brink !" 

Although the ostrich is undoubtedly capable of undergoing 
thirst for a considerable period, yet water appears to be indis- 
pensable to its existence. In the dry and hot season, I have 
often observed the same flock drinking almost daily. They 
swallow the water by a succession of gulps. On such occasions 
— that is, when approaching a spring — they seem quite stupe- 
fied. Whilst staying at Elephant Fountain, where in a short 
time I killed eight of these magnificent birds, they made their 
appearance regularly every day about noon, and although the 
locality afforded but indifferent shelter, they invariably allowed 
me to get within range, only retreating step by step. 

Like the capercali of Europe, the ostrich has a plurality of 
wives — from two to six, it is said. The breeding season would 
seem to be somewhat undefined ; for I have met with nests in 
every month from June till October. Each female is repre- 
sented as laying from twelve to sixteen eggs, and all in one and 
the same nest, which is simply a cavity scooped out in the sand. 

Both male and female assist in hatching the eggs, which are 
placed upright, in order, it would seem, " that the greatest possi- 
ble number may be stowed within the space." When about a 
dozen eggs are laid, the bird, which squats astride over them, 
with its legs pointed forward, begins to sit. I have observed 
that, on perceiving a man, instead of running away from the 
nest, it not unfrequently lowers its conspicuous neck till it be- 
comes in a line with the ground, evidently in the hope that it 
may be passed unnoticed. 

During the period of incubation, the ostrich, if an intruder 
approaches its nest, resorts to various artifices to induce him to 
withdraw far off. 

"One morning," says Professor Thunberg, "as I rode past a 
place where a hen-ostrich sat on her nest, the bird sprang up 
and pursued me, with a view to prevent my noticing her young 
ones or her eggs. Every time I turned my horse towards her, 
she retreated ten or twelve paces ; but as soon as I rode on she 
pursued me again." 

The period of incubation seems to vary ; but, on the average, 



200 STONES POUND IN EGGS— THE CHICKS. 

it may be about thirty-eight days. One or more of the females 
are said to lay meanwhile ; but the supernumerary eggs are 
placed outside the nest, and are supposed to serve as nourish- 
ment for the callow brood. If such really be the case, we, in 
this again, see a wonderful provision of nature, inasmuch as the 
chicken would be unable to digest the indurated matter furnished 
by their too-often sterile haunts. 

The notion so generally entertained of the ostrich merely de- 
positing her eggs in the sand, and leaving them to be vivified by 
the sun, arises, probably, from its habit of occasionally quitting 
the nest in search of food, more especially as it generally does 
so during the hottest part of the day. 

Some travelers affirm that the ostrich not only never sits on 
her eggs after having once been handled, or even if a man should 
have passed near the nest, but that she actually destroys them ! 
I, for my part, cannot speak to this point, having, whenever I 
found an ostrich's nest, usually plundered it at once, thus leav- 
ing the bird no opportunity of obeying so strange an instinct. 

It seems pretty certain, however, that the ostrich, as with 
many other birds, is in the habit of deserting her eggs if they 
be handled. " The slaves," says Professor Thunberg, " always 
use the precaution not to take away the eggs with their hands 
(in which case the birds, who perceive it by scent, are apt to 
quit the spot), but by means of a long stick they rake them out 
of the nest as fast as the birds lay them." 

A peculiarity in regard to the eggs of the ostrich, and, so far 
as I am aware, confined to the eggs of this bird alone, is men- 
tioned by several African travelers. For example : — " The farm- 
er here likewise informed me," says the author just quoted, 
" that a stone or two is sometimes found in the ostrich's eggs, 
which is hard, white, rather flat and smooth, and about the size 
of a bean. These stones are cut and made into buttons, but I 
never had the good fortune to see any of them." 

Again: "In these eggs," writes Barrow, "are frequently 
discovered a number of small oval-shaped pebbles, about the 
size of a marrow-fat pea, of a pale yellow color, and exceed- 
ingly hard. In one egg we found nine, and in another twelve 
of such stones." 

Notwithstanding the number of eggs laid, seldom more than 
thirty to thirty-five are hatched. Almost as soon as the chicks 
(which are about the size of pullets) have escaped from the 
shell, they are able to walk about and to follow the mother, on 
whom they are dependent for a considerable period. And 
nature, with her usual care, has provided the young with a 



THE FLESH — EATEN BY THE ROMANS. 201 

color and a covering admirably suited to the localities they 
frequent. The color is a kind of pepper-and-salt, harmonizing 
wonderfully with the variegated sand and gravel of the plains, 
which they are in the habit of traversing. Indeed, when 
crouching under my very eyes, I have had the greatest difficulty 
in discerning the chicks. The covering is neither down nor 
feathers, but a kind of " prickly external," which, no doubt, 
is an excellent protection against injury from the coarse gravel 
and the stunted vegetation amongst which they dwell. 

The flesh of the young ostrich is not unpalatable ; but that 
of the old bird is anything but good. To my notion, it tastes 
very much like that of the zebra. According to the Mosaic 
law, the ostrich was denounced as an unclean animal, and the 
Jews were, consequently, forbidden to eat it. The Arabs of 
the present day still adhere to this prohibition. Some of the 
native tribes of Southern Africa, however, are less fastidious, 
and partake of the flesh with great relish, more especially 
when fat. 

Though people at the present day place little or no value on 
the ostrich as an article of food, the ancient Romans, who were 
great epicures, seem to have been of a different opinion. We 
are told by Vobiscus that the pseudo Emperor Firmus, 
" equally celebrated for his feats at the anvil and at the 
trencher, devoured, in his own imperial person, an entire ostrich 
at one sitting." 1 The brain of this bird was considered a super- 
lative delicacy ; and, like everything else with that luxurious 
nation, it was provided on the most magnificent scale. Thus, 
according to an ancient testimony, the Emperor Heliogabalus 
was served at a single feast with the brains of six hundred of 
these birds. 2 

If the flesh of the ostrich be not much esteemed, its eggs, 
at all events, are prized in the highest degree by natives and 
travelers. To say nothing of their flavor, each contains as 
much as twenty-four of the eggs of the barn-door fowl, and 
weighs about three pounds. 

From the great size of the ostrich egg, it might be supposed 
that one would be a sufficient meal for any man ; but I have 
known instances where two eggs have been dispatched by a 

1 Apicius gives a recipe for the best sauce. 

2 The Romans, as is well known, also introduced large numbers of ostriches 
into the circus, where they were butchered by the people. We are told that no 
less than one thousand of these splendid creatures (together with an equal num- 
ber of the stag, the fallow deer, and the boar tribe) were on one occasion brutally 
sacrificed to gratify the insatiable thirst for blood of the Roman populace. 



202 EGG-SHELL S F EATHEKS, 

single individual, even when mixed with a quantity of flour and 
fat. Indeed, Hans and his companion once finished five ostrich 
eggs in the course of an afternoon ! 

Even the egg-shell is of considerable value, and is an excellent 
vessel for holding liquids of any kind. The bushmen have 
hardly any other. By covering it with a light net-work it may 
be carried slung across the saddle. Grass, wood, etc., serve as 
substitutes for corks. 

By the monks of Dayr Antonios, we are informed that the 
Copts (by whom the eggs are looked upon as the emblem of 
watchfulness, and who suspend them in their churches), pass the 
cords of their lamps through the shell in order to prevent the 
rats from coming down and drinking the oil. 

The shell of the egg is used medicinally. The Boers, after 
reducing it to powder, and mixing it with vinegar, give it to 
cattle afflicted with stranguary, for which disease it is considered 
a sovereign remedy. The powder itself is said to be an excellent 
preservative against blindness. 

The white wing-feathers 1 of the ostrich (the black ones are 
used chiefly for mourning) are a considerable article of commerce. 
The market, however, is very fluctuating. At the Cape, the price 
varies from one or two guineas sterling, to as much as twelve, 
for the pound, the latter sum, however, being only paid for very 
prime feathers. The thinner the quill, and the longer and more 
wavy the plume, the more it is prized. 2 Seventy to ninety 
feathers go to the pound. But although half this number may 
be obtained from a single bird, only a small portion are of any 
value. In the pairing season — and it may be at other times — 
the ostrich, like the turkey-cock, the capercali, and many other 
birds, is in the habit of drooping its wings, so that the outer 
feathers trail on the ground, which soon destroys their beauty. 
The proper time to kill the ostrich for its plumes, is shortly 



1 The plumes, together with the eggs, of the ostrich, are said to have been held 
in much request with the ancient Egyptians. Indeed, they formed part of the 
tribute imposed on those of the conquered nations in whose country the bird 
abounded ; and appear to have been used for ornaments as well as for religious 
purposes. " The ostrich feather was a symbol of the Goddess of Truth and Justice. 
It belonged also to the head-dress of Ao ; was adopted by Hermes Trismegistus ; 
and worn by the soldiery and the priests on certain religious festivals." " In Turkey, 
the Janizary who signalized himself in arms had the privilege of empluming his 
turban ; and in the kingdom of Congo the feathers, mixed with those of the pea- 
cock, are employed as the ensigns of war and victory." 

2 Such feathers as have been plucked from the wings of the living bird are said 
to be preferable to those obtained from the dead ostrich, as being less liable to 
the attack of worms. 



HABITS OF THE OSTRICH. 203 

after the moulting season, or in the months of March and 
April. 

The Damaras and the Bechuanas manufacture handsome para- 
sols from the black feathers of the ostrich, which serve as signs 
of mourning, or are useful for the preservation of the complex- 
ion. " It is a beautiful sight," says Harris, " to behold a savage, 
whose skin, somewhat coarser than the hide of a rhinoceros, 
might vie in point of color with a boot, protecting his complex- 
ion by the interposition of such an umbrella." 

Some of the tribes of Southern Africa are said to employ 
ostrich-parasols whilst hunting wild animals, with a similar 
purpose to that of a Spanish bull-fighter who uses a red cloth. 
Thus, in case of a wounded beast charging a man, the latter, 
just at the moment he is about to be seized, suddenly thrusts 
the supports of the nodding plumes into the ground, and, while 
the infuriated animal is venting its rage on its supposed victim, 
the native slips unperceived on one side and transfixes his 
antagonist. 

The skin of the ostrich is also said to be held in great request, 
and forms no inconsiderable article of commerce. " The whole 
defensive armor of the Nasamones, inhabitants of Lybia, was 
manufactured of the birds' thick skin, which, even at the pre- 
sent day, is used as a cuirass by some of the Arab troops." 

The ostrich, though usually dwelling far from the haunts of 
men, occasionally approaches the homestead, and, at such times, 
causes the Boer considerable damage by trampling down and 
eating the grain. 

The opinion of authors and sportsmen, with regard to the 
ostrich, vary considerably. Some ascribe to it great stupidity, 
whilst others consider it as possessed of vivacity and much 
intelligence. Without passing a judgment, I will only mention, 
that I have seen it exhibit these opposite qualities in no small 
degree. 

In a domesticated state, it is true, the ostrich appears to be a 
quiet, dull, and heavy-looking bird ; but when seen in its native 
haunts, it is restless, wary, and difficult of approach. From its 
great stature, and the prominent position of its eyes, its range 
of vision is naturally considerable, which enables it to discover 
danger at a considerable distance. This, together with the ex- 
posed localities frequented by it, probably accounts for the 
comparatively few that even the mightiest Nimrods of South 
Africa can boast of having killed. 

What may be the case with the ostrich, in a wild state, i& 
hard to say; but, when in confinement, no bird or other animal 



204 A STRANGER TO DYSPEPSIA. 

demonstrates so little discrimination in the choice of its food ; 
for it then swallows with avidity stones, pieces of wood and iron, 
spoons, knives, and a variety of other indigestible matters. 
This strange propensity and apparent obtuseness of taste, 
obtained for the bird, at an early period, the epithet of " the iron- 
eating ostrich." 

" The estfidge that -will eate 

An horshowe so great 

In the steade of meat ; 

Such fervent heat 

His stomach doth freat." 1 

Many amusing anecdotes are told of the strange habits of this 
bird. Once — so runs the story — when the ostrich was still a 
rare sight in Europe, a woman, on hearing of the arrival of a 
batch of these birds, and being anxious to obtain a sight of 
them, hastily shut up her house, taking the key of the door in 
her hand. No sooner, however, had she arrived on the spot 
where the birds were kept, than one of them stalked gravely up 
to the lady, and, snatching the iron instrument out of her hand, 
deliberately, and to her great horror, swallowed it — actually 
shutting her out of her own house I 

'• Nothing," says Methuen, in his " Life in the Wilderness," 
when speaking of a female ostrich that came under his immediate 
notice, " disturbed the ostrich's digestion : dyspepsia was a thing 
' undreamt of in its philosophy.' One day, a muscovy duck 
brought a promising brood of ducklings into the world, and 
with maternal pride conducted them forth into the yard. Up, 
with solemn and measured stride, walked the ostrich, and, 
wearing the most mild, benignant cast of face, swallowed them 
all, one after the other, like so many oysters, regarding the 
indignant hissings and bristling plumage of the hapless mother 
with stoical indifference." 

The ostrich is gregarious, and is met with in troops varying 
from a few individuals to as many as fifty. Singularly enough, 
it is never known to associate with other birds ; but, preferring 
quadrupeds, is often found in company with the zebra, the 
springbok, the gnoo, etc. Indeed, in many respects, it bears a 
striking resemblance to four-footed animals ; such as in its strong, 
jointed legs and cloven hoofs ; its long, muscular neck; its gruff 
voice ; the absence of the elevated central ridge of the breast 
bone, so generaly characteristic of birds ; besides other simi- 
larities already mentioned. But, perhaps, when compared with 

1 "The Boke of Phillip Sparrow." 



ITS RESEMBLANCE TO QUADRUPEDS. 205 

the camel, the affinity becomes still more striking. Both are 
"furnished with callous protuberances on the chest and on the 
abdomen, on which they support themselves when at rest; and 
they both lie down in the same manner." In both the feet and 
stomach are somewhat similarly constructed ; and if we add to 
this, their capabilities of subsisting on a scanty and stunted vege- 
tation, their endurance of thirst, and their formation in general, 
which enables ostrich and camel to inhabit and traverse arid and 
desert regions, the resemblance is by no means so imaginary as 
one might at first suppose. Indeed, to many of the nations of 
the East, 1 as well as to the Eomans and the Greeks, the ostrich 
was known by the name of the camel-bird. 

The ostrich is easily domesticated, but is sometimes of a 
vicious disposition. The Eev. Mr. Hahn, if I remember rightly, 
told me that some of these birds, which he kept in confinement 
for a considerable period, became so mischievous, that, lest they 
might injure any of the people on the station, he was obliged 
to kill them. 

Several persons have tried to breed from the tame ostrich ; 
but, to the best of my belief, all attempts have hitherto proved 
abortive. Eggs, however, have been frequently obtained ; but 
the birds never showed any inclination to sit upon them. At 
the Eegent's Park Gardens, moreover, repeated trials have been 
made to hatch the eggs by artificial means, but without suc- 
cess. 

The expedients resorted to in South Africa, to capture the 
ostrich, are various. Not unfrequently it is ridden down by 
men on horseback. Several hunters take different sides of a 
large plain, thus hemming the bird in, and chasing it backwards 
and forwards until its strength is exhausted. 

The ostrich is also at times ridden down by a single horse- 
man. Under ordinary circumstances, fleet as the horse may be, 
this would be impossible. Towards the approach of the rainy 
season, however, when the days are intolerably hot and oppress- 
ive, the giant bird may be seen standing motionless on the plain, 
with wings spread, and beak wide open ; and at such times the 
capture may be accomplished. Indeed, cases have come under 
my notice where Namaquas, after a short and spirited chase, 
have brought the ostrich to a dead stand-still. A blow on the 
head with a stick or a " shambok" is then sufficient to dispatch 



1 Among the people of Persia and Arabia, the vulgar belief is said to exist " that 
the shutur-moorg (the camel-bird) is produced by the union of a camel with a 
bird!" 



206 THE CHASE ON HORSEBACK. 

it. On similar occasions, however, horses have been known to 
drop down dead from over-exertion. 

When an ostrich finds himself observed, he will often make for 
some given point — more especially if he be hemmed in near a 
plain. He is so fully aware that safety is only to be found in 
the open country, that he always endeavors to gain it. Should 
the sportsman understand his business, he may easily cut him 
off; but it requires a keen eye and a practiced hand to bring the 
bird down ; for, on emergencies like these, its speed, as before 
said, is truly wonderful. 

The Arabs of North Africa are also accustomed to pursue the 
ostrich on horseback ; but, instead of trying to overtake the bird 
at once, it is steadily followed — even for days — without putting 
it to its speed, until it becomes gradually exhausted, when it 
falls an easy prey to the persevering hunter. 1 

In parts of Southern Africa, the ostrich is run down even on 
foot. I, myself, have seen the bushmen accomplish this ex- 
ploit on the shores of Lake Ngami. They usually surround a 
whole troop, and, with shouts and yells, chase the terrified birds 
into the water, where they are, of course, speedily killed. " We 
more than once," says Harris, "fell in with a large party of 
Corannas engaged in an attempt to tire out an ostrich on foot, a 
feat which they are said sometimes to achieve, knocking him off 
his legs by squaling with a club of rhinoceros horn, fashioned 
like a hockey stick." 

The bushman, however, frequently has recourse to a much 
simpler plan of circumventing the ostrich. Having found its 
nest, he removes the eggs to a place of safety, and, ensconcing 
himself in the empty cavity, awaits the return of the bird, 
which he generally manages to dispatch with a poisoned 
arrow. 

At other times, the natives lie in wait near pools frequented 
by ostriches, and shoot them when they come there to quench 
their thirst. If the gun be loaded with swan-shot instead of 
ball, and one aims at the necks, several may be killed at a sin- 
gle discharge ; but this plan will, of course, never be adopted by 
the true sportsman. 

Ostriches are also not unfrequently captured in snares (simi- 

1 " When slain, the throat is opened ; and a ligature being passed below the in- 
cision, several of the hunters raise the bird by the head and feet, and shake and 
drag him about until they obtain from the aperture nearly twenty pounds of a 
substance of mingled blood and fat, of the consistence of coagulated oil, which, 
under the denomination of manteque, is employed in the preparation of dishes and 
the cure of various maladies." — Harris's Wild Sports. 



ENEMIES OF THE OSTRICH. 207 

lar to those made use of for entangling smaller species of ante- 
lopes), but I have quite forgotten whether by the neck or the leg. 
A long cord, having at one end a noose, is tied to a sapling 
which is bent down, and the noose pinned to the ground in such 
a manner that when a bird treads within it, the sapling springs 
back by its own natural elasticity, suspending the bird or other 
animal in the air; and it is only released from its suffering by 
death. Strabo and Oppian make mention of snares being em- 
ployed by the ancients for the capture of ostriches ; either alluring 
them by stratagem into the toils, or driving them en masse, by 
a brisk pursuit with horses and dogs. 

But the most ingenious plan of beguiling the ostrich to its 
destruction, is that described by Mr. Moffat and others, as 
practiced among the bushmen. The reverend gentleman 
say:— 

"As kind of flat double cushion is stuffed with straw, and 
formed something like a saddle. All except the under part of 
this, is covered over with feathers attached to small pegs, and 
made so as to resemble the bird. The head and neck of an os- 
trich are stuffed, and a small rod introduced. The bushman in- 
tending to attack game, whitens his legs with any substance he 
can procure. He places the feathered saddle on his shoulders, 
takes the bottom part of the neck in his right hand, and his bow 
and poisoned arrows in his left. Such as the writer has seen 
were most perfect mimics of the ostrich, and at a few hundred 
yards' distance it is not possible for the eye to detect the fraud. 
This human bird appears to pick away at the verdure, turning 
the head as if keeping a sharp look-out, shakes his feathers, now 
walks, and then trots till he gets within bow-shot ; and when 
the flock runs, from one receiving an arrow, he runs too. The 
male ostriches will, on some occasions, give chase to the strange 
bird, when he tries to elude them, in a way to prevent them 
catching his scent ; for when once they do, the spell is broken. 
Should one happen to get too near in pursuit, he has only to 
run to windward, or throw off his saddle, to avoid a stroke from 
a wing, which would lay him prostrate." 

But the ostrich has other enemies besides man. Beasts as 
well as birds are said to seek and devour their eggs with great 
avidity. According to Sir James Alexander (given on the au- 
thority of the natives about the Orange River), when the birds 
have left their nests in the middle of the day in search of food, 
" a white Egyptian vulture may be seen soaring in mid air, 
with a stone between his talons. Having carefully surveyed 
the ground below him, he suddenly lets fall the stone, and then 



208 ENEMIES OF THE OSTRICH. 

follows it in rapid descent. Let the hunter run to the spot, 
and he will find a nest of probably a score of eggs, some of 
them broken by the vulture." 

Again, "the jackal is said to roll the eggs together to break 
them ; whilst the hyaena pushes them off with its nose to break 
them at a distance." 

Nothing of this kind ever came under my notice ; though, on 
the other hand, I have not unfrequently found the bird itself 
destroyed by lions, panthers, wild dogs, and other beasts. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

SUDDEN FLOODS JOHN ALLEN'S SUFFERINGS HANS AND THE AUTHOIJ 

ENTER INTO PARTNERSHIP YOUNG GRASS INJURIOUS TO CATTLE DE- 
PART FROM "WALFISCH BAY ATTRACTIVE SCENERY TROOP OF LIONS 

EXTRAORDINARY PROCEEDINGS OF KITES FLIGHT OF BUTTERFLIES AT- 
TACHMENT OF ANIMALS TO ONE ANOTHER ARRIVAL AT RICHTERFELDT ; 

AT BARMEN HANS' NARROW ESCAPE SELF-POSSESSION HEAVY RAINS 

RUNAWAY OX; HE TOSSES THE AUTHOR DEPART FROM BARMEN 

DIFFICULTY OF CROSSING RIVERS ENCOUNTER GREAT NUMBERS OF 

ORYXES. 

We were now in the depth of the rainy season. Rain, as 
already said, rarely falls in the neighborhood of Walfisch Bay; 
but the gathering of heavy clouds in the eastern horizon every 
afternoon, and vivid flashes of lightning accompanied by dis- 
tant thunder, clearly indicated that the interior of the 
country had been flooded. We had soon a proof of this in the 
sudden appearance of the long-dormant Kuisip river — which, 
now swollen to an unusual height, overflowed its banks, and 
threatened destruction to everything that opposed its course. 

This overflow was equally great in the Swakop, in the lower 
course of which our cattle were stationed under the charge of 
John Allen. One fine morning, and without the least previous 
notice, down came the torrent, and cut him off from the greater 
number of the animals, which were grazing on the opposite 
bank. He was an expert swimmer, however; and, boldly 
plunging into the swollen stream, with difficulty and danger, 
succeeded in crossing. But no sooner had he gained the bank, 
than the river rushed forward with tenfold velocity, and effectu- 
ally separated him from the camp. Two days and a night 
14 



210 PARTNERSHIP WITH HANS. 

elapsed before the water had sufficiently subsided to enable him 
to return. The sufferings of the poor lad, meanwhile, must 
have been very trying ; for he was in a state of complete nudity ; 
and, though he had abundance of fuel, he had no means of 
lighting a fire. Lions and hyasnas, moreover, were numerous ; 
and, to add to his misery, the oxen strayed during the night in 
different directions. In re-collecting them, the following day, 
he had to cross the most rugged and jagged rocks and precipices 
and scorching fields of sands, which severely lacerated and blis- 
tered his unprotected feet. Most men, I venture to say, under 
such circumstances, would have left the cattle to their fate. 

As soon as the swollen Kuisip had sufficiently subsided, and 
the emaciated state of the oxen permitted, I returned from the 
Bay to Scheppmansdorf. Hans had not been idle during my 
absence. He had put the wagon in complete order, having re- 
placed the axle-tree (which in our journey from Barmen had 
received a serious fracture) with a new one, and shortened the 
tires of the wheels. He had also made a new covering for the 
vehicle. I, too, had made considerable progress with regard to 
the arrangements and preparations for my intended journey. 
However, on taking a more close survey of my little property, 
I found that, notwithstanding Mr. Galton had furnished me 
with a variety of things, I was very deficient in the most im- 
portant — such as articles for barter, presents for chiefs, instru- 
ments for taking observations, provisions, etc. As none of these 
were procurable by purchase from the vessels then in Walfisch 
Bay, I was placed in an awkward position. To proceed without 
ample supplies of all kinds was not advisable ; nor did I much 
relish the idea of returning to the Cape — the nearest point for a 
refit — since this could only be accomplished by an overland jour- 
ney of many months' duration, and the consequent loss of an en- 
tire season. Yet, after duly weighing the matter, I determined, 
though with no small regret, to adopt the latter course. 

I now entered into partnership with Hans, who, on his side, 
threw into the general stock, goods, etc., to the amount of 
about one hundred and fifty pounds sterling. 

It was agreed between us that we should barter our wagons, 
as also every article we could possibly dispense with, for cattle, 
with which we should proceed to the Cape colony, where we 
understood live-stock always commanded a ready market. 
When we should have turned the cattle into cash, and provided 
ourselves with everything needful, we purposed forthwith re- 
turning to Walfisch Bay ; I, with a view of penetrating to the 
Lake Ngami, whilst Hans, in my absence, was to trade with the 



ATTRACTIVE SCENERY. 21 L 

natives. Should he be successful, my share of the profits would 
materially aid me in following up my geographical explorations, 
which I was aware would be attended with considerable ex- 
pense. 

Though our stay at Scheppmansdorf and Walfisch Bay had 
been of some duration, it was not sufficiently long to enable the 
oxen to recover their strength. They had not suffered actual 
want ; but the change of pasturage, more especially as the grass 
was then young and green, instead of benefiting them, had 
rather tended to deteriorate their condition. Indeed, more than 
half of our best draught-oxen died. 

The country being at length in tolerable order for traveling, 
we once more, on the afternoon of the 26th of January, took 
our departure from Scheppmansdorf. keeping the same course 
as on previous occasions. Besides myself and Hans, our party 
consisted of John Allen, John St. Helena, Phillipus, Onesi- 
mus, and a few Damaras. 

The effect of the late rains began soon to show itself ; for 
even the barren Naarip was, in places, richly carpeted with 
grass and flowers ; and, at every step, the vegetation became 
more luxuriant. As evening, with its lengthened shadows, 
began to close upon us, the air was filled with balmy and aro- 
matic scents. One little flower, of a milk-white color, was par- 
ticularly sweet and attractive. I could scarcely realize the 
wonderful change in the landscape, where, less than a month 
previously, I might have exclaimed : 

" Still the same burning sun ! no cloud in Leaven ! 
The hot air quivers ; and the sultry mist 
Floats o'er the desert with a show 
Of distant waters." 

The presence of herds of the beautiful oryx, the lively quagga, 
and the grotesque gnoo, which looked like 

" Beasts of mixed and monstrous birth, 
Creations of some fabled earth," 

served further to enhance the interest of the scene. 

These were glorious times for the lions, who were exceed- 
ingly numerous. On passing Tineas and Onanis — both famous 
strong-holds for this animal — we started troops of them amongst 
the broken ground ; but they invariably ran away, and all my 
efforts to get a shot at them were unavailing. 

One day, while refreshing ourselves and cattle in the midst 



212 FLIGHTS OF KITES AND BUTTERFLIES. 

of a scene like that just described, the men being busy cutting 
up, or " dressing," as butchers would say, two fine oryxes, the 
produce of the morning hunt, we were suddenly surrounded by 
a cloud of kites. The actions of these birds were most strange. 
Hovering within a few feet of our heads, they eyed us steadily 
for awhile, and then took themselves off, as if satisfied. Another 
batch would now approach so near, that in order to avoid com- 
ing in contact with us, they threw themselves on their backs, 
spreading out their wings and talons, and opening their beaks ; 
whilst one or two actually, with a swoop, snatched the food out 
of the hands of the natives. It was only after having brought 
down several with the rifle that the rest thought best to keep 
at a more respectful distance. 1 

This day, and during the whole of the following, we encoun- 
tered myriads of lemon-colored butterflies. Their numbers 
were so great that the sound caused by their wings resembled 
the distant murmuring of waves on the sea-shore. They 
always passed in the same direction as the wind blew, and, as 
numbers were constantly alighting on the flowers, their appear- 
ance at such times was not unlike the falling of leaves before 
a gentle autumnal breeze. 

Every day, at the halting place, we were in the habit of train- 
ing some oxen to the " pack" or the saddle. One of the ani- 
mals particularly captivated my fancy, and I was desirous of 
having him well broken-in. After a little time, however, I 
learnt that no person dared any longer to approach the beast. 
On inquiring the cause, I found that a large ox had taken it 
under his protection, so to speak, and would allow no one to 
go near it. Whenever the servants attempted to catch the 
protege, his protector would rush at them furiously ; and my 
favorite was so well aware of this, that so soon as he saw any 
one approaching, he would run directly to his " father," as the 
natives not inaptly styled the big ox. After having personally 
convinced myself of this singular attachment, and dreading that 
some serious mischief might ensue, I deemed it prudent to kill 
my poor pet. For many days, the " father" appeared inconsol- 
able at his loss. Kunning wildly about the herd, and smelling 
first at one and then at the other, he would moan and bellow 
most piteously. This is another proof of the strong attachment 
of which the lower animals are capable. I may add that I have 

1 Several well-known Australian explorers make mention of similar occurrences 
with this identical bird. I have also heard that in India it is no unusual thing to 
see hawks snatch the food from a person as he travels along. 



ARRIVAL AT BARMEN. 213 

frequently seen a sheep, when the butcher has been in the act 
of killing its comrade, run up to the man, and butt at him most 
viciously. 

On the 5th of February, we found ourselves again at Rich- 
terfeldt. Mrs. Rath, I was sorry to find, was suffering griev- 
ously from eye-sickness ; so much so, that she was unable to 
bear the least light. Indeed, not long after, the sight of one of 
her eyes was permanently injured, if not destroyed. 

Here I and Hans separated. Whilst he went into Damara- 
land to trade with the natives, I, myself, proceeded along the 
Swakop with the wagon. We had only one, the other having 
already been disposed of at Eikhams. The river was still run- 
ning breast-high, and we experienced much difficulty in cross- 
ing and recrossing it. One evening, just as we were descend- 
ing the bank, from which the flood had only lately receded, 
the vehicle suddenly sank so deep in the mud as almost to hide 
the fore-wheels. Before we could extricate ourselves — which 
was a work of many hours — we were obliged to dig a deep 
trench, and pave it with stones. 

In the afternoon of the 11th of February, I reached Barmen, 
where on the following day I was joined by Hans. He had not 
been very successful, and, moreover, nearly got into a scrape 
with the natives. Having one day gone some distance in 
advance of his small party, he suddenly, at the turn of a hill, 
came upon some women and children, who, notwithstanding 
his friendly assurances, ran off in great fright to the werft, 
which was not far distant, screaming vociferously. The men," 
thinking that they were about to be attacked by the Namaquas, 
instantly rushed to arms ; and Hans, on coming in view of the 
village, unexpectedly found himself in the presence of several 
hundred Damaras, each armed with a huge assegai. Placing 
his gun against a tree, he walked quietly into the midst of 
them. His coolness so surprised and amazed them, that the 
forest of bristling spears, poised in the air ready to strike, were 
instantaneously lowered. The men, however, continued their 
yells and shouts for some time, and it was not until his inter- 
preter had arrived, that he was able to set their minds at rest as 
to his peaceable intentions. 

The effect often produced on savages, by the self-possession 
of a single European, is truly wonderful. If Hans had evinced 
the smallest sign of fear or hesitation, his fate probably would 
have been sealed. 

I remember, not long after this took place, to have been 
journeying with fifty or sixty Damaras, accompanied only by 



214 SELF-POSSESSION RUNAWAY OX. 

my native interpreter, when the chief of the party, next to 
whom I was walking, turned sharply round and abruptly 
accosted me in the following manner : " How is it that you 
venture to go thus alone amongst us? we might easily kill you 
at any time." Without a moment's hesitation, I replied, " I 
neither fear you nor any other people, and simply because I 
never injured you. You, on the other hand, are perpetually 
robbing and killing your neighbors ; and, consequently, you have 
to dread the revenge of their friends and relations. Besides," I 
jokingly added, " it is not quite so easy as you may imagine to 
pull ' three hairs out of a lion's tail.'" This was exactly hitting 
the nail on the head — for, if they had previously thought my 
argument good, they were now amazingly pleased with the jest. 

We were delayed some little time at Barmen, in consequence 
of heavy rains that now almost daily deluged the country. It was 
during this stay that the remarkable thunder-storm occurred — 
mentioned in a preceding chapter — which caused such havoc 
among the native gardens. 

One day, whilst endeavoring to secure properly a young ox, 
he broke loose ; and, though almost the whole village turned 
out to assist us, we were unable to recapture the animal. 
When an ox thus made off, we usually caused three or four of 
the steadiest of his comrades to be driven after him, or we put 
some good runners on his track. By the cattle or the men 
keeping up a steady pace, they would soon exhaust the refrac- 
tory animal, and quietly bring him back to the camp. In this 
instance, Karnarute, perhaps the fleetest man in Damara-land, 
was sent in pursuit. 

Whilst abiding his return, I indulged in a warm bath, and, 
just as I had finished my ablutions, I observed him coming back 
with the runaway. As the animal, however, was not proceed- 
ing in exactly the required direction, I placed myself in his 
path, for the purpose of turning him. But as he heeded not my 
presence, and kept his own course, the result was that he 
caught me with his horns near the ribs, and pitched me bodily 
over his back ! With the exception of being a good deal shaken, 
however, I singularly enough escaped unhurt. But one of our 
native servants was less fortunate ; for on trying, like myself, to 
stay the ox in his headlong career, the poor fellow was thrown 
to the ground by the exasperated brute, who actually knelt on 
his body, and in all probability would have killed him, had not 
the rest of the people come to his assistance. This accident 
taught us to be more careful in our future proceedings with an 
over-driven ox. 



DEPART FROM BARMEN. 215 

On leaving Barmen, we were obliged to make a considerable 
detour in order to avoid the " Great" Swakop, which continued 
to send down immense torrents of discolored water. In cross- 
ing one of its branches, known as the "Little" Swakop, our 
cattle were more than once swept away by the violence of the 
current, and our wagon had a very narrow escape from being 
capsized. When half way across the stream it stuck fast, and 
for upwards of four hours all our efforts to extricate it proved 
ineffectual. During the whole of this time we were immersed 
up to our necks in water, which hourly increased. What with 
the velocity of the current, the depth of the river, and the loose- 
ness of the soil beneath, we were unable to obtain a firm foot- 
ing, and men, oxen, and dogs were frequently jumbled together 
in the most awkward confusion. After almost superhuman ex- 
ertions, having previously been obliged to remove all the heavy 
things from the vehicle, we succeeded in reaching the shore in safe- 
ty. Here, again, to our dismay, we found our path barred by im- 
mense blocks of stone, and the roughness of the ground in general 
along the bank. We had no alternative but to retrace our 
steps, and recross the river at a more convenient point, which 
we successfully accomplished on the following morning, when 
the water had somewhat subsided. 

Hence we traveled about northeast, alternately in the bed 
and on the banks of a tributary to the Swakop. On reaching 
the foot of that picturesque chain of mountains extending in a 
northerly direction from Eikhams towards Schmelen's Hope, 
where it terminates rather abruptly, we encountered great num- 
bers of the oryx, which afforded us excellent spor* 



CHAPTER XXII. 

THE ORYX ; MORE THAN ONE SPECIES WHERE FOUND PROBABLY KNOWN 

IN EUROPE PREVIOUS TO THE DISCOVERY OP THE PASSAGE ROUND CAPE- 
OP-GOOD-HOPE DESCRIPTION OP THE ORYX GREGARIOUS SPEED 

FOOD WATER NOT NECESSARY TO ITS EXISTENCE WILL FACE THE 

LION FORMIDABLE HORNS THEIR USE FLESH THE CHASE OF THIS 

ANIMAL. 

Three distinct species of oryxes 1 are recognized by naturalists, 
ranging over a great extent of the more desert and thinly-peo- 
pled districts of Africa. In the northern part of the continent, 
the type is represented by the leucoryx, 2 which strikingly re- 
sembles the oryx or gemsbok (oryx capensis), of which the ac- 
companying drawing is an excellent representation. 

The gemsbok (so called by the Dutch, from a supposed re- 
semblance to the chamois of Europe) seems restricted to the 
central and western parts of Southern Africa, few or none being 
found in its eastern portion. It was once common within the 
colony, but what with its shy habits, the constant persecution 
it suffers, and the advance of civilization, its numbers are now 
rapidly decreasing, and few at the present day are to be found 
within the boundaries of the British territory. 

1 Oryx cajpensis, oryx beisa, and oryx leucoryx. 

2 The numerous engravings of the leucoryx on the sculptures of Egypt clearly 
indicate that this animal was well-known to the nations inhabiting the valley of 
the Nile. It was chosen as an emblem, but whether as a good or evil symbol is 
uncertain, though some modern writers seem in favor of the former opinion. The 
wealthy Egyptians kept a great number of this antelope in a tame state, but it 
does not appear to have been considered a sacred animal. Indeed, it was indis- 
criminately sacrificed to the gods, and slaughtered for the table. 



THE ORYX. 219 

Judging from some ancient coats of arms, it would really seem 
that the gemsbok was known to Europeans even before the 
Portuguese discovered the passage round the Cape-of-Grood- 
Hope. 1 We are told that John of Lancaster, the great Duke of 
Bedford, bore his arms supported by this animal, which is still 
on the sinister side of the heraldic shield of the present ducal 
house of Bedford. Amongst various embellishments, which are 
painted in the Bruges style of the period, in a prayer-book, once 
the property of John of Lancaster, are found his armorial de- 
vices, with the antelope black, whose straight spiral horns, al- 
though placed almost at right-angles with the head, are evi- 
dently intended for those of the oryx. The animal is adorned 
with gilded tusks, but in other respects is not ill-drawn. It is 
conjectured that this book was illuminated on the marriage of 
the Duke of Bedford with Anne, Princess of Burgundy. Be 
this as it may, it cannot well be later than the period of his 
death in the year 1435. 

The gemsbok is a very remarkable animal, and though pos- 
sessed of many of those beautiful peculiarities which character- 
ize antelopes, there is something anomalous about him. He has 
the mane and tail of the horse, the head and coloring of the ass, 
and the legs and feet of the antelope. The horns are about 
three feet in length, slightly curved backwards, ringed at the 
base, and of a shining black color. Those of the female are 
somewhat longer than the male's, but of more slender propor- 
tions. About one-third of their entire length is hollow, resting 
on a bony protuberance. When both horns are perfect, and 
one has a side view of the animal, they appear as one and the 
same, from which circumstance many believe the gemsbok to 
be the unicorn 2 of Scripture. 

The gemsbok is a truly noble beast. The adult male (about 
the size of an ass) not unfrequently attains nearly four feet in 
height at the shoulder, and about ten in extreme length. The 
general color of the coat is a " vinous buff." The female is very 
similar in appearance, but slighter in form. The calves are of 
a reddish cream-color, which, as they grow up, becomes paler or 
whitish. They are easily tamed, but sometimes exhibit a vici- 



1 It is possible that heralds became acquainted with this animal, or at leapt 
with the leucoryx, through the Crusaders. Or, perhaps, the knowledge wa3 
obtained from the Romans, who, according to Martial, had the oryx at their 
games. 

2 For some curious remarks on the unicorn, see Barrow, vol. ii., page 269 el 
seq. 



220 SPEED FOOD "WATER NOT NECESSARY. 

ous and treacherous disposition. Hans more than once domes- 
ticated them, and I myself have had the young alive. 

The gemsbok may be said to be gregarious in its habits ; for, 
though rarely seen together in any great number, it is not often 
met singly. 

Of all the larger quadrupeds of South Africa, with which I 
can claim acquaintance, the gemsbok is, undoubtedly, the swift- 
est. Its speed is nearly equal to that of the horse. Unless a 
man be a " light weight," and very well mounted, he has little 
chance of coming up with it. 

The food of the gemsbok consists of grass, succulent plants 
(often of a very acrid taste), shrubs, etc. 

As with several other animals indigenous to Southern Africa, 
water is not supposed to be essential to the existence of the 
gemsbok. Gordon Cumming, indeed, tells us " that it never by 
any chance tastes water." But this, I apprehend, is a mistake ; 
for I have not only seen it on several occasions, whilst in the 
very act of drinking, but perfectly well authenticated instances 
have come to my knowledge where whole troops of these 
animals have been discovered either dead or in a dying state 
near pools purposely poisoned by the natives for the cap- 
ture of wild animals. The gemsbok, it is true, is found in the 
most dreary and desolate districts far distant from water : — 

" A region of drought, where no river glides, 
Nor rippling brook with osier'd sides — 
"With no reedy pool, nor mossy fountain. 
Nor shady tree, nor cloud-capp'd mountain." 

Nevertheless (more especially at early morn) it occasionally fre- 
quents the banks of periodical rivers, flanked or bordered by 
broken ground or hills ; and it is to such localities, when 
pursued, that it flies for refuge. 

Though the gemsbok has rarely, if ever, been known to at- 
tack man, it is quite capable of defending itself. With its for- 
midable horns, it can strike an object (that is, inflict wounds) in 
front as well as behind, which, from their pointing backwards, 
was hardly to be expected. When driven to bay by dogs, it 
has been seen to place its head between its legs (the tips of its 
horns, in the while, almost resting on the ground), and to rip 
open, or toss into the air, such of its assailants as have had the 
boldness to confront it. In this manner, Hans told me he lost, 
at different times, the best dogs in the pack. 

In open ground, the gemsbok, it is said, will stand on the 
defensive even against the lion himself. Hans, indeed, knew 



HORN S F LES H T HE CHASE. 221 

an instance where a lion and a gemsbok were found lying dead 
in each other's grasp ; the latter having, with his horns, trans- 
fixed his assailant ! The carcasses of the two were discovered 
before decomposition had taken place. The lion seems to have 
a great dread of the horns of the gemsbok ; for, by all accounts, 
he rarely ventures to attack except by stealth. 

The horns of this animal are used by the natives for a variety 
of purposes. When polished, they form strong and handsome 
walking-sticks. The flesh, which is well-tasted, is highly 
prized. 

" Owing to the uneven nature of the ground which the oryx 
frequents," says Gordon Cumming, " its shy and suspicious dis- 
position, and the extreme distances from water to which it must 
be followed, it is never stalked or driven to an ambush like 
other antelopes ; but is hunted on horseback, and ridden 
down b3 T a long, severe, tail-on-end chase." This is not exactly 
correct ; for, when on foot, I have killed great numbers of these 
animals. Moreover, were the option left me, I would rather 
"stalk" them than pursue them on horseback. Such was also 
Hans' experience, who, during his seven years' nomade life in 
Damara-land, has probably killed more gemsboks than any 
hunter in Southern Africa. I have also" known this animal to 
be driven into pit-falls. 

The gemsbok, as a rule, runs, like the eland, against the wind 
when pursued. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

ARRIVAL AT EIKHAMS — NATIVE DOGS ; CRUELLY TREATED JONKER AFRI- 
KANER — THE AUTHOR VISITS THE RED NATION ; THE BAD REPUTE OF 

THESE PEOPLE THE AUTHOR ATTACKED BY OPHTHALMIA THE EMBRYO 

LOCUST THE " FLYING" LOCUST ; ITS DEVASTATIONS THE LOCUST BIRD 

ARRIVAL AT REHOBOTH ; THE PLACE DESCRIBED. 

In the afternoon of. the 20th of February, we drove in to 
Eikhams during a terrific thunder-storm, drenched to the skin. 
The deluging rain continued to descend the whole of the 
ensuing night, and the place on the following morning looked 
like a foaming torrent. In consequence of this inundation, our 
ox-gear, and, in short, everything untanned, was completely 
saturated, and greatly resembled a heap of moist wash-leather. 

The starved native dogs had taken advantage of this circum- 
stance, and devoured rather more than two feet of our " trek- 
touw." The curs are of the greatest annoyance to the traveler 
in Namaqua-land ; for, since the owners rarely feed them, they 
greedily devour almost everything they come across. I have 
had my powder-flask, " veld" shoes, and even rifle (the stock of 
which may have happened to be covered with hide, in order to 
keep it from cracking) abstracted by them from my side dur- 
ing the night. A person's first impulse, on making the discov- 
ery, is to vow vengeance on the head of the thieves ; but, on 
seeing the emaciated state of the poor creatures, in which every 
rib might be counted, anger is turned into pity — and the up-lifted 
arm, ready to strike the blow, falls to its place. 

It has been said with much truth, by a missionary, that " the 
Namaquas feed their dogs with stripes." From being constantly 
kicked and knocked about in the most brutal manner, they 



NATIVE DOGS. 223 

gradually become so accustomed to ill-treatment, that flogging 
produces little or no effect. When struck, they merely shrug 
up their backs, open their jaws, grin in a ghastly manner, and, 
if the chastisement be continued, howl most piteously. This, 
and their skeleton appearance, are enough to sicken a person. 

It would be somewhat difficult to determine to what species 
of the canine race these dogs belong, or from what breed they 
originally descended. They- bear some slight resemblance to 
those I have seen at the homesteads of the Swedish peasants. 1 

Jonker had removed his werft to some little distance from 
Eikhams. He invariably did this every year after the rains, in 
order to save the pasturage for the dry season. I rode over 
to the village, where I found nearly the whole tribe — women 
and children, at least — congregated. This was an opportunity 
I had long desired, since it would enable me to form a rough 
estimate of their number. Jonker and most of the men were 
absent ; but by counting the huts, and taking the average num- 
ber of individuals to each, I came to the conclusion that the 
aggregate of Namaquas, capable of carrying arms, did not exceed 
five hundred. The servants, or rather slaves, on the other 
hand, consisting of bushmen, Hill-Damaras, and impoverished 
Damaras, were probably three or four times as numerous. By 
supposing each man to be possessed of one gun, which is per- 
haps below the mark, Jonker's tribe possess in round numbers 
two thousand fire-locks. If their courage corresponded to their 
numerical strength, they might prove a formidable body even to 
Europeans, but this is fortunately far from being the case. 

Jonker was indebted to us several head of cattle, and we were 
accordingly anxious for his return ; but no person could or 
would inform us when this was likely to happen. With regard 
to other inquiries, such as the object and motive of his present 
journey, the answers were equally unsatisfactory. Neverthe- 
less, the shyness of the natives, when interrogated on these points, 
coupled with our knowledge that Jonker was accompanied by 
almost all his warriors, made us suspect that he had gone on a 
plundering expedition against the Damaras. 

After a few days' stay at Eikhams, we directed our steps to a 

1 Mr. Lichtenstein, when speaking of the bushmen dogs, which may be consid- 
ered identical with those of the Hottentots, thus writes : — " These dogs, in their 
size and form, have a striking resemblance to the black-backed fox of Southern 
Africa, the jackal as he is falsely called, cards mesomelas ; so that it seems very 
probable that the one is really a descendant from the other ; only that the proper- 
ties of the animal are, in the course of time, somewhat changed, from its haviug 
been tamed and trained by the hand of man." 



224 VISIT THE RED NATION CORNELIUS. 

powerful tribe of Namaquas, known as the " Roode-Natie," or 
Red Nation. I had two objects in view for visiting these people, 
namely to trade, and to learn something about them and their 
country. Every one I met, including the missionaries, repre- 
sented them as the most barbarous and brutal of all the Hotten- 
tots in Great Namaqua-land. Only one trader had visited them, 
and him they treated so shamefully as to discourage others from 
making a like attempt. I was determined, however, if possible, 
to ascertain the cause of their evil reputation, and to endeavor 
to establish friendly relations with them. 

My reception was such as to corroborate the ill-reports that 
had reached my ears. At the first werft we came to, they stole 
a large quantity of clothing belonging to our servants ; but after 
some trouble, we succeeded in recovering the property. At the 
next village, they threatened to shoot us on the spot if we did 
not sell our things at their own terms ! Three different times 
their chief sent to say, that if we attempted to stir without his 
orders, he would fire upon us. To this insolent message, we 
quietly replied, that he would have been at liberty to prevent 
our coming to his werft, but, with regard to our departure, we 
should consult our own convenience. Finding us determined, 
and that we were preparing to start, he soon came to terms, and 
in the most humble manner offered an explanation and apolo- 
gy for his rude conduct, which, under the circumstances, we 
thought it best to accept. 

We were just about to turn our backs upon the Red Nation, 
when a messenger arrived from Cornelius, the chief, with a civil 
and pressing invitation to visit him at his kraal. After some 
little hesitation, we consented, and speedily followed the envoy. 
On arriving at the werft, prettily situated at the foot of a hill, 
near the banks of the Kubakop river, which here forced its pas- 
sage though a ver}' remarkable range of mountains, I immedi- 
ately called the tribe together, and reproached them for their 
bad behavior towards strangers. I, moreover, explained to them 
the impolicy of such conduct, and how very injurious it would 
prove to their own interest, since they were entirely dependent 
on the Cape-Colony for their supplies of arms and ammunition, 
clothing, and other commodities. 

My efforts in bringing about a thorough good understanding, 
were successful. A short time afterwards, indeed, a number of 
traders, encouraged by my favorable reception, visited these 
people, and supplied their wants at the same rate as paid by the 
other Hottentot tribes residing in Great Namaqua-land. More- 
over, they have lately admitted a missionary amongst them, and 



SLAVER Y — E MBRYO LOCUSTS. 225 

it is to be hoped that, through good examples, they may ulti- 
mately be civilized. 

The chief strong-hold of the Red Nation is about the Ku- 
bakop, but a part of the tribe is settled on the Fish river. 
Taken as a whole, they possess, probably, the worst portion of 
the northern part of Great Namaqua-land. They call them- 
selves Kaikhons, a word signifying large ridges of hills, in con- 
tradistinction to Zwartbooi's tribe, the name of which is Kharik- 
ho-us, or small ridges. They look upon Jonker and his people, 
who are known as " Oerlam," not only with jealousy, but with 
something akin to contempt. 

I found but few Damara slaves amongst the Red Nation, which 
at first struck me as singular, for their outrage on the Damaras 
was, at least, of equal extent to that perpetrated by the rest of 
the northern Namaquas. 1 could only explain this by supposing 
that they killed their prisoners. I afterwards learnt that my 
conjecture was correct ; and that, having surrounded a werft, 
they coolly shot down every soul, women and children not ex- 
cepted. However, having lately discovered that the Damaras 
make useful drudges, they have, from interested motives, become 
less bloody-minded. 

Whilst staying with Cornelius, I was attacked by ophthalmia, 
and for a few days suffered great agonies ; but, fortunately, be- 
fore the disease had arrived at its maximum, it took a favorable 
turn. 

Having succeeded in disposing of the greater part of our 
goods, we took leave of our host, and bent our steps towards 
Rehoboth, which was on our road to the Cape. The day after 
our departure, we met with vast numbers of the larvas of the 
locust (gryllus devastator, Lich.), commonly called by the Boers, 
" voet-gangers," literally, foot-goers. In some places they might 
be seen packed in layers several inches in thickness, and myriads 
were crushed and maimed by our wagon and cattle. Towards 
night-fall, they crawled on to the bushes and the shrubs, many 
of which, owing to their weight and numbers, were either bowed 
down to the ground or broken short off. They were of a red- 
dish color, with dark markings ; and, as they hung thus sus- 
pended, they looked like clusters of rich fruit. As they hopped 
along the path and amongst the grass, their appearance was no 
less curious and striking. 

These "voet-gangers" are justly dreaded by the colonists, as 

no obstacle seems capable of staying their progress. They are 

said to cross stagnant pools — ay, even the Orange river — by the 

leading multitudes throwing themselves heedlessly into the 

15 



226 LOCUST S T HEIR DEVASTATIONS. 

water, where they are drowned, thus affording the survivors 
a temporary bridge. Fires, which are lighted in their path, in 
the hope of staying their course, are extinguished by their 
myriads. " All human endeavors to diminish their numbers," 
says a recent author, " would appear like attempting to drain 
the ocean by a pump." 

As we traveled on next morning we encountered the locust 
itself, and in such masses as literally to darken the air. 

" Onward they came, a dark continuous cloud 
Of congregated myriads numberless, 
The rushing of whose wings was as the sound 
Of a broad river, headlong in its course 
Plunged from a mountain summit ; or the roar 
Of a wild ocean in the autumn storm, 
Shattering its billows on a shore of rocks." 

Our wagon, or any other equally conspicuous object, could 
positively not be distinguished at the distance of one hundred 
paces. In a particular spot, within the circumference of a mile, 
they had not left a particle of any green thing. The several 
columns that crossed our path, in the course of the day, must 
each have been many miles in length and breadth. The noise of 
their wings was very great — not unlike that caused by a gale 
of wind whistling through the shrouds of a ship at anchor. It 
was interesting to witness at a distance the various shapes and 
forms that these columns assumed, more especially when cross- 
ing mountain-ranges. At one time, they would rise abruptly 
in a compact body, as if propelled by a strong gust of wind ; 
then, suddenly sinking, they would disperse into smaller batta- 
lions, not unlike vapors floating about a hillside at early morn, 
and when slightly agitated by the breeze. Or they would 
resemble huge columns of sand or smoke, changing every min- 
ute their shape p.nd evolutions. 

During their flight, numbers were constantly alighting, an. 
action which has not inaptly been compared to the falling of 
large snow flakes. It is, however, not until the approach of 
night that they encamp. Woe to the spot they select as a rest- 
ing place ! When the rising sun again speeds their departure, 
localities, which on the preceding evening were rich in vege- 
tation, are bare and naked as the Sahara. "When a swarm 
alights on a garden" — says Mr. Moffat — " or even fields, the 
crop for one season is destroyed. I have observed a field of 
young maize devoured in the space of two hours. They eat not 
only tobacco, and every other vegetable, but also flannel and 
linen." 



EATEN BY THE NATIVES LOCUST BIRD. 227 

From what has been said, it is evident that the husbandman 
has just reason to be appalled at the approach of this destructive 
insect. To the poor bushmen, "the children of the desert," on 
the other hand, who have neither herds to lose by famine, nor 
corn-fields to be destroyed by their devastations, their arrival is 
a cause of rejoicing. Pringle, in his song of the wild bushman, 
has the following lines — 

" Tea, even the wasting locust-swarm, 
Which mighty nations dread, 
To me nor terror brings nor harm ; 
I make of them my bread." 

On the present occasion we found a great number of Hotten- 
tots, as also Hill-Damaras, busy collecting the locusts, which 
was done in a very simple and ingenious manner. Having 
gathered together large quantities of dry fuel, fires were lighted 
directly in their path, and as the insects passed over the flames, 
their wings were scorched, and they fell helplessly to the 
ground. 

They are also collected by cart-loads at night when they have 
retired to rest ; but this plan is occasionally attended with dan- 
ger. " It has happened that, in gathering them, people have 
been bitten by venomous reptiles. On one occasion a woman had 
been traveling several miles with a large bundle of locusts on 
her head, when a serpent, which had been put into the sack 
with them, found its way out. The woman supposing it to be 
a thong dangling about her shoulders, laid hold of it with her 
hand, and feeling that it was alive, instantly precipitated the 
bundle to the ground, and fled." 

The locusts, after being partially roasted, are eaten fresh, or 
they are dried in the hot ashes, and then stored away for future 
emergencies. The natives reduce them also to powder, or meal, 
by means of two stones or a wooden mortar, which powder, 
when mixed with water, produces a kind of soup or stir-about. 
I have tasted locusts prepared in various ways, but I cannot say 
that I have found them very palatable. But they must contain 
a vast deal of nourishment, since the poor people thrive wonder- 
fully on them. 

Birds of almost every description, more especially storks and 
kites, are seen devouring them greedily. 

The great enemy of the locust, however, is the locust-bird, or 
the " spring-haan vogel," as it is termed by the colonists. This 
is described as a species of thrush, about the size of a swallow, 



228 ARRIVE AT REHOBOTH. 

and is a constant attendant on the insect. It is even said to 
build its nest and rear its young in the midst of locusts — which, 
moreover, occasionally prey on each other ; for when a locust 
becomes maimed or crippled, its companions instantly pounce 
upon and devour it. 

The locust which causes such havoc to vegetation in Africa, 
is said to be a different species to that common to Asia — where 
also, though perhaps not to the same extent, it commits great 
ravages. 

The Cape Colony has been particularly subject to this dread- 
ful scourge, which is invariably followed by famine. The in- 
roads of the locusts are periodical ; according to Pringle, about 
once every fifteen years. In 1808, after having laid waste a 
considerable portion of the country, 1 they disappeared, and did 
not return till 1824. They then remained for several years, but 
in 1830 took their departure. 

The proper home of the locust is yet a mystery. Experience 
only tells us that they come southwards from the north. They 
rarely appear in any number except in years of abundance. 

Almost every day during several months, we encountered 
innumerable swarms of these insects ; and it was not till we 
had crossed the Orange river that we fairly lost sight of them. 

On the 15th of March we reached Rehoboth, where, as al- 
ready said, there is a missionary station pertaining to the Rhen- 
ish society. Here I had the pleasure of making the acquaint- 
ance of the Rev. Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Vollmer. They re- 
sided in substantial clay-houses thatched with reeds. The 
church, in the erection of which Mr. Kleinschmidt had taken a 
very active part, is a handsome and roomy structure, capable of 
holding several hundred people. From the disproportionate 

1 Barrow, who wrote about this period, and who gives a remarkable account of 
the devastations of these insects, probably alludes to this very circumstance when 
he says : — 

" The present year is the third of their continuance, and their increase has far 
exceeded that of a geometrical progression whose ratio is a million. For ten 
years preceding their present visit, the colony had been entirely freed from them. 
Their last departure was rather singular. All the full-grown insects were driven 
into the sea by a tempestuous northwest wind, and were afterwards cast upon the 
beach, where, it is said, they formed a bank of three or four feet high, which ex- 
tended from the mouth of the Bosjeman's river to that of the Becka, a distance of 
near fifty English miles ; and it is asserted, that when this mass became putrid, 
and the wind was at southeast, the stench was sensibly felt in several parts of 
Sneuwberg. * * * The larva? at the same time were emigrating to the 
northward. The column of these imperfect insects passed the houses of two of 
our party, who assured me that it continued moving forward without any inter- 
ruption, except by night, for more than a month." 



HOT SPRING. 229 

breadth of the building, however, the roof could not sustain its 
own weight : and some time previously to my visit, the greater 
part had fallen down. Divine service, nevertheless, continued 
to be performed in that portion of the building which remained 
uninjured. 

At this period the station was in a most flourishing condition. 
But, alas ! circumstances have since changed ; and it is now a 
question whether the mission can continue to exist. Should it 
be abandoned, ten years of unremitted labor and exertion will 
be entirely lost ; and I sadly fear it will break the heart of its 
founder — the worthy and venerable Kleinschmidt. 

Rehoboth is well supplied with good and clear water from a 
fountain hard by. There is also a copious warm spring flowing 
from a limestone rock ; but the water is looked upon as un- 
wholesome, and only made use of for cattle, washing of clothes, 
and the seasoning of timber. 

The warm spring in question is situated on rising ground, and 
consequently affords facilities for irrigation ; though unfortu- 
nately the soil is scanty and unfavorable for gardening. The 
missionaries, and a few natives, have, by perseverance, succeeded 
in fertilizing patches of ground which are tolerably productive. 
Indeed, I have known a fig-tree — certainly not above five or six 
feet in height — in Mr. Kleinschmidt's garden, to produce a dish 
of fruit every day for a space of more than three months. The 
garden-vegetables which thrive best are pumpkins, calabashes, 
water-melons, etc. The wild gourd, or melon, is also found in 
great abundance about Rehoboth. When ripe, this fruit is col- 
lected by the natives, dried, and stored away for seasons of 
scarcity. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

RETURN TO EIKHAMS UGLY FALL SPLENDID LANDSCAPE JONKER'S DE- 
LINQUENCIES HOW TO MANAGE THE NATIVES THE ONDARA IT KILLS 

A MAN HOW HIS COMRADE REVENGES HIM MEDICAL PROPERTIES OP 

THE ONDARA THE COCKATRICE THE COBRA-DI-CAPELLO THE PUFF- 
ADDER THE SPITTING SNAKE THE BLACK SNAKE FEW DEATHS 

CAUSED BY SNAKES ANTIDOTES FOR SNAKE BITES RETURN TO RE- 

HOBOTH. 

Leaving Hans in charge of the men and cattle, I posted back 
to Eikhams, a distance of about sixty miles, in the hope of recover- 
ing our debt from Jonker; but he had not yet returned. By 
this time, however, I received positive information that he and 
his people were engaged in a cattle-lifting foray. To enable me 
to acquire full details of their proceedings, I set off for Barmen — 
the head-quarter for information as respects Damara-land. Here 
fugitives arrived daily, bringing tidings of plunder and blood- 
shed. I felt grieved and angry at Jonker's outrageous behavior. 
Only a year before, he had most solemnly promised Mr. Galton 
never again to molest the Damaras. 

Hearing that Kachamaha, the most powerful chief in the 
country since the death of Kahichene, resided not far from Bar- 
men, and that he had been a severe sufferer by the depredations 
of the Namaquas, I determined to visit him, with a view of as- 
certaining the extent of his own and his countrymen's losses. 

I found Kachamaha's kraal on the steep banks of a periodical 
stream, one of the largest tributaries of the Swakop. The situ- 
ation was most picturesque. The wonderful luxuriance of the 
vegetation, and extreme beauty of the landscape at this season — 



SPLENDID LANDSCAPE AN UGLY FALL. 231 

the thousands of cattle crowding the verdant slopes — the purl- 
ing stream, which made a music strange to these regions — 

" A noise like of a hidden brook 
In the leafy month of June, 
That to the sleeping woods all night 
Singeth a quiet tune" — 

the mimosa (now in full blossom) — the numerous fires on an 
evening, around which bustling and merry groups of savages 
were busily preparing their plain " veld-kost" of wild roots and 
bulbs — these, and many other signs of abundance, cheerfulness, 
and content, infused a sensation of tranquil happiness which I 
had not experienced since my arrival in this sun-burnt and un 
happy land. 

The result of my own and Mr. Hahn's inquiries, was a con- 
viction that Jonker, with his murderous horde, had destroyed 
in his recent foray upwards of forty werfts or villages ; and that 
the aggregate number of cattle carried off could not have been 
much short of ten or eleven thousand. One powerful tribe of 
Damaras had been completely broken up. With regard to the 
number of people killed, we were unable to ascertain anything 
with certainty ; but we had reason to think that on this occasion 
it was not considerable. 

Having collected all the facts which I thought necessary to 
convict Jonker of his guilt, I retraced my steps to Eikhams. 

Almost immediately after leaving Barmen, I had a very ugly 
fall from my ox. He was plunging and kicking most viciously ; 
but I succeeded for a time in keeping my seat. Unfor- 
tunately, however, all at once, both girths gave way, and after 
performing a somerset in the air, I came with a violent thump to 
the ground. I alighted in a sitting position ; but as ill-luck would 
have it, my left leg came in contact with the stump of a tree, 
which inflicted a wound fully two inches in depth, and nearly 
the same in length. In this state I was obliged to ride upwards 
of one hundred miles; and the consequence was that by the 
time I reached Rehoboth, what with the heat of the sun, and 
the jolting of the ox, my limb was alarmingly inflamed. A 
week's rest, however, restored me, in a degree, to health. 

On arriving near Eikhams, I observed almost every hill and 
dale covered with numerous herds of cattle — the spoils of the 
last excursion. On my arrival, I requested an immediate inter- 
view with the chief. In a day or two, accompanied by twenty 
of his principal men, he made his appearance. The meeting 
took place in the old church, where I had established myself 



232 jonker's defense. 

which gave a certain solemnity to the occasion. Eyebrecht and 
Onesimus acted as interpreters. 

Every one being duly seated, and silence obtained, I thus ad- 
dressed the chieftain : — 

" Captain Jonker ! when I last saw you, I shook hands with 
you : it grieves me that I cannot do so to-day ; the cause you 
must be aware of." I then proceeded boldly to accuse him of 
his late depredations in Damara-land, to which both he arid the 
rest of the audience listened in the most profound silence. 

Having finished my harangue, the cunning chief requested to 
be allowed to speak a few words in his defense, which, of 
course, was granted. He then entered into a very long and 
cleverly concocted story of the great losses he had sustained at 
the hands of the Damaras ; and that what he had now done 
was solely in self-defense, or as indemnification for robberies 
committed on himself. Whatever truth there might have 
been in his assertion as to preceding outrages, his story, on 
the present occasion, was one chain of falsehood, and this I 
clearly proved to him. At last, finding no further excuse, and 
perceiving that I knew all about his proceedings, he confessed 
that, in passing through the country, his men had certainly 
"taken a few head of cattle; but," added he, " we left plenty 
after us." The manner in which he thus attempted to get out 
of the scrape was so ridiculous, that I could not help smiling. 
After a little more parley the conference broke up. 

The Namaquas, however much they may be averse to hear 
the truth, respect the man who speaks his mind boldly. For 
this very reason I was never denied a favor or request, if in 
their power to grant it. The case was similar with Mr. Hahn, 
who acted on the same principle as myself. 

In my dealings with the natives, and more especially with the 
Namaquas, I made it a rule to treat them civilly, and even def- 
erentially, but I never mixed very freely with them. The mo- 
ment a person becomes too familiar, they lose all respect for 
him. The only check he has on their avarice, and safeguard 
against their treachery is to exert, as far as possible, a certain 
moral influence over their minds. This he effects, to a certain 
extent, by showing himself superior to their faults and vices. 
It might be convenient enough to imitate them in some respects ; 
but, on the whole, it will prove injurious and detrimental to the 
traveler's interest. 

After a short stay at Eikhams, I bade adieu to Jonker, and set 
off on my return to Rehoboth. 

One morning, when crossing a periodical stream, I observed, 



THE ONDARA IT KILLS A MAN. 233 

in its sandy bed, the tracks of an immense serpent, in size, as 
it would seem, not much inferior to the boa constrictor. I 
had previously heard that such monsters inhabited this part of 
Africa, 1 but the natives declared they were poisonous (not char- 
acteristic of this family of reptiles), and, consequently, feared 
them greatly. The Damaras called the serpent in question the 
Ondara, and said that its chief food was the rock-rabbit (hyrax 
capensis). Mr. Hahn had an opportunity of seeing one of these 
huge creatures, which had been accidently killed by the people 
at Rehoboth. It measured eighteen feet in length. 2 

I was told a very striking story of the Ondara, but I am not 
at all prepared to vouch for its truth. 

Two Hill-Damaras had, it seems, gone in search of honey, 
and having found a bees' nest in the cleft of a rock, one of them 
made his way through the confined aperture that led to it, for 
the purpose of possessing himself of the honeycomb. But he 
had not long been thus engaged when he discovered a narrow, 
circular passage, leading, apparently, right through the nest. 
He told this to his comrade on the outside, who suggested that 
it was probably caused by a serpent. However, seeing nothing 
to indicate the reptile's presence, he resumed his labor ; and, 
having secured the honeycomb, was about to withdraw from the 
aperture, when, to his horror, he saw a huge Ondara making to- 
wards him. The reptile passed the poor fellow in the first 
instance, but suddenly turning round, it plunged its murderous 
fangs into the man's body. The poison was of so virulent a 
a nature as to cause almost instantaneous death. The survivor, 

2 Large species of serpents of the python family are known to inhabit many 
parts of the African continent. Dr. Smith, in his " Zoology of South Africa," 
when speaking of a certain species {python Natalensis) found sparingly in the 
neighborhood of Natal, thus says : — 

" It occasionally attains a very large size, and, according to the natives, indi- 
viduals have been seen whose circumference was equal to that of the body of a 
stout man : we have ourselves seen a skin which measured twenty-five feet, though 
a portion of the tail was deficient. It feeds upon quadrupeds, and for some days 
after swallowing food it remains in a torpid state, and may then be easily destroyed. 
The South Africans, however, seldom avail themselves of these opportunities of 
ridding themselves of a reptile they view with horror, as they believe that it has a 
certain influence over their destinies ; and affirm, that no person has ever been 
known to maltreat it without, sooner or later, paying for his audacity." 

2 Mr. Freeman, in " A Tour in South Africa," mentions having heard of one of 
this kind of reptiles being destroyed that actually exceeded this size nearly three 
times. " This enormous serpent," says the reverend gentleman, " was hang- 
ing from the bough of a large tree, and was killed only after a desperate struggle. 
It measured fifty feet in length. This was ascertained by a number of men lying 
down at full length by its side. It took nine men to reach from the head to the 
tail, and was of prodigious girth round the body." 



234 THE COCKATRICE. 

witnessing the fate of his friend, fled precipitately. On his way 
home, however, and when his agitation had subsided, he deter- 
mined to revenge himself on the reptile, and early the following 
day he returned to put his plan into execution. 

Having seen the serpent leave the aperture in question, he 
slipped unperceived into it, and quietly awaited the reptile's 
return. As soon as he observed it approaching, he coolly 
placed his open hand across the narrowest part of the passage ; 
and, just as the monster's eyes glared within, he grasped it by 
the throat, and, by striking its head to and fro against the rocks 
on either side, he soon succeeded in destroying it. 

Many Namaquas believe that the ondara possesses certain 
medicinal virtues ; therefore, when they succeed in killing the 
reptile, its flesh is carefully preserved. If a person falls sick, 
a portion is either applied externally in the form of an unction, 
or given to the patient in a decoction. 

The natives mention a very singular little snake, about seven or 
eight inches long, possessing four distinct legs, each provided 
with toes and nails like a lizard. It is difficult to conceive for 
what purpose these limbs (which are placed somewhat apart, 
and rather to the side, as in the seal) have been destined by 
nature, since they are apparently never used. The motion of 
this curious creature, which is of a dark slate color, is said to 
be that of a perfect snake. Three specimens were brought at 
different times to Mr. Hahn when at Barmen. 

The story of the cockatrice, so common in many parts of the 
world, is also found amongst the Damaras ; but instead of crow- 
ing, or rather chuckling, like a fowl when going to roost, they 
say it bleats like a lamb. It attacks man as well as beast, and 
its bite is considered fatal. They point to the distant north as 
its proper home. In Timbo's country it is termed " hangara," 
and is said to attain to twelve feet, or even more, in length, 
with a beautifully variegated skin. On its head, like the 
guinea-fowl, it has a horny protuberance of a reddish color. It 
dwells chiefly in trees. Its chuckle is heard at night-fall ; and 
people, imagining that the noise proceeds from one of their own 
domestic fowls that has strayed, hasten to drive it home. But 
this frequently causes their destruction ; for as soon as the 
cockatrice perceives its victim within reach, it darts at it with 
the speed of lightning ; and if its fangs enter the flesh, death 
invariably ensues. Timbo informed me that he once saw a dog 
belonging to his father thus killed. Moreover, the cockatrice, 
like the wild dog, wantonly destroys more at a time that it can 
consume. 



THE COBRA-DI-CAPELLO THE PUFF-ADDER. 235 

Notwithstanding the dryness of the soil and the atmosphere 
between the Orange river and the seventeenth or eighteenth 
degrees of south latitude, reptiles are rather numerous. 
Indeed, some parts of Damara-land are so infested by them 
as to be almost uninhabitable. For my own part, however, I 
have encountered comparatively few. I never saw the cobra- 
di-capello, though it does exist in these regions. It is common 
enough in the colony, and is even met with in the neighborhood 
of the Table Mountain. 

An acquaintance of mine had a remarkable escape from this 
reptile. Being passionately fond of botany, he was one day 
studying the Flora of the so-called " Cape-flats." Having dis- 
covered a rare plant, he was stooping down to gather it, when 
up started a cobra immediately beneath his hand. My friend 
had no time to turn round, but retreated backwards as quickly 
as his legs would carry him. The serpent, however, was fast 
gaining ground ; and had the chase lasted a few seconds longer, 
must inevitably have caught him. But just at this critical 
moment my friend stumbled over an ant-hill and fell to the 
ground on his back ; and whilst in this position, he saw, to his 
inexpressible relief, the enraged cobra dash furiously past him. 

Pringle says that this snake has been known to dart at a man 
on horseback, and " with such force as to overshoot its aim." 
The average length of a full-grown specimen I believe to be 
about five feet. 

The puff-adder (vipera inflata) was not uncommon in Nama- 
qua-land and Damara-land. My saddle-ox had an exceedingly 
narrow escape from being bitten by one. The reptile was 
lying at length across the path, and I did not discover it until 
the ox almost trod on it. Any serpent less slow in its move- 
ments must have fixed its fangs in the animal. Another time, 
a woman, the wife of a native servant of mine, found one of 
these horrid creatures comfortably sleeping in the folds of her 
skin apron. 

Notwithstanding its venomous character, the . puff-adder, 
from its inert, heavy and sluggish habits, is comparatively 
harmless. The only real danger arises from treading on it. 
This, however, is not always easy to avoid, since its color so 
much resembles the ground. 

When about to seize its prey, or attack the enemy, the puff- 
adder is said to be unable to dart forward, but, on the other 
hand, to possess the faculty of throwing itself backward with 
unerring certainty. 

Different species of what the Dutch term " schaap-steker," 



236 THE SPITTING-SNAKE. 

or sheep-stinger; 1 " boom-slang," or tree-snake ; " ringel-hals," 
or ring-throat; "the spuig-slang," or spitting-snake; 2 the 
" zwart-slang," or black snake, 3 etc., are also occasionally met 
with ; but none of these are very poisonous. The spuig-slang, 
however, is much dreaded by the colonist, less for its bite — 
which, though venomous, is not fatal — but from its peculiar 
habit of projecting a jet of poison to a distance, of several 
feet, towards the eyes of any person who may happen to 
approach its haunts — the result of which is usually loss of 
sight. 

The common people at the Cape have some very singular 
notions and superstitions about the different reptiles indigenous 
to the Cape Colony, but more especially with regard to the 
zwart-slang. Our wagon-driver told us that this snake is very 
fond of women's milk, and solemnly declared that he had 
known several instances where it has entered people's dwell- 
ings at night, and if it met with a sleeping mother, has dexter- 
ously abstracted her milk. I remember a somewhat similar 
story having been told me by the peasantry of some parts of 
Sweden, who state that to kill a snake was not alone a duty, 
but an expiatory sacrifice — since " seven sins" would be for- 
given an individual for each serpent slain by him. Accord- 
ingly, in the credulity of my childish days, I was a perfect 
Thalaba ! 

Incorrect ideas of the power of the reptile family, coupled 
with superstitious dread, has no doubt served considerably to 
exaggerate the fear of snakes. Many, we know, are of the 
most venomous character ; but, as we become better acquainted 
with the different species, we shall find that by far the greater 
portion are harmless, or nearly so. The remarkably few .cases 
of death occurring from their bites are a corroboration of this. 
Moreover, like the rest of lower animals, the most deadly rep- 
tile will generally fly at the sight of man. It only exerts its 
formidable powers of destruction when about to be trampled 
upon or assailed. Were it otherwise, many of the more humid 
parts of our globe, where snakes literally swarm, would be 
uninhabitable. Before setting foot on African soil, my head 
was full of the dangers to which I should be exposed from 
them — either when "treading the maze of the jungle," or 
when traversing the endless sand plains. Habit and experience 
have since taught me to regard snakes with something akin to 
indifference. 

1 Trimcrorhinus rhomheatus. 2 Naia haje. 3 Columber canus. 



ANT1D31ES FOR SNAKE BITES. 237 

Some of the antidotes in Southern Africa, for the bites of 
snakes and the stings of poisonous insects, are simple, singular, 
and striking. 

The first point to be attended to is (if it be practicable), to 
tie a string or ligature tight above the wounded part, so as to 
prevent the venom spreading. 

Cutting away, or applying caustic to the wounded part, if 
promptly and unhesitatingly done, is also likely to prevent fatal 
consequences. 

Europeans have usually recourse to eau de luce, five drops of 
which is administered to the patient in a glass of water every 
ten minutes, until the poison is counteracted. Eau de luce is 
also applied externally. Another very good plan, is to scarify 
with a knife the wound, and then boldly to suck it. Care, 
however, must be taken that one has no sore about the lips or 
mouth. Sweet milk, oil, or spirits of hartshorn, must then be 
applied to the wound. The patient should also be made to 
drink freely of sweet milk. 

In the Cape Colony, the Dutch farmers resort to a cruel, but 
apparently effective plan to counteract the bad effects of a ser- 
pent's bite. An incision having been made in the breast of a liv- 
ing fowl, the bitten part is applied to the wound. If the poison 
be very deadly, the bird soon evinces symptoms of distress, 
"becomes drowsy, droops its head, and dies." It is replaced by 
a second, a third, and more, if requisite. When, however, the 
bird no longer exhibits any of the signs just mentioned, the 
patient is considered out of danger. A frog, similarly applied, 
is supposed to be equally efficacious. 

A certain white bean found in some parts of the colony (de- 
signated somewhat singularly, the gentleman bean), has also 
been known to cure the bites of serpents, and other poisonous 
creatures. Thus, a Damara woman, who had been stung by a 
scorpion, was once brought to Mr. Hahn with her whole body 
very much swollen and inflamed. She was already in such a 
state as to be unable to walk. He instantly divided one of the 
beans in question, and applied it to the wound, to which it ad- 
hered with such tenacity as only to be removed by force. When 
the virus was extracted, the bean dropped off of its own accord, 
and the woman, after a time, thoroughly recovered. 

" As an antidote against the bite of serpents," says Thunberg, 
in his travels in South Africa, " the blood of the turtle was 
much cried up, which, on account of this extraordinary virtue, 
the inhabitants dry in the form of small scales or membranes, and 
'-arry about them when they travel in this country, which 



238 THE SNAKE-STONE. 

swarms with this most noxious vermin. Whenever any one is 
wounded by a serpent, he takes a couple of pinches of the dried 
blood internally, and applies a little of it to the wound." 1 

And Kolben, when speaking of the cobras (called, by the first 
colonists, the hair-serpent) says: — 

" Some affirm that there is in the head of the hair-serpent a 
stone, which is a never-failing antidote both against the poison 
of this and every other sort of serpent. I killed a great many 
hair-serpents at the Cape, and searched very narrowly the heads 
of all I killed, in order to find this stone ; but I could never dis- 
cover any such thing. Perhaps, it is only to be found at one 
season of the year, as are the stones in the heads of crawfish. 

" There are in the hands of the Cape Europeans," Kolben 
goes on to say, " a great many stones called serpent-stones ; but 
they are artificial ones. They are brought from the East Indies, 
where they are prepared by the Brachmans, who are alone, it 
seems, possessed of the secret of the composition, and will not 
let it go out of their own body at any price. I am heartily 
sorry the secret is not in the Christian world, and that the 
Brachmans are inflexible in this particular, because those stones 
are of admirable virtues. I saw one of them tried upon a child at 
the Cape, who had received a poisonous bite in one of the arms ; 
but it could not be discovered from what creature. When the 
stone was brought, the arm was prodigiously swelled and in- 
flamed. The stone being applied to the wound, stuck to it very 
closely, without any manner of bandage or support, drinking in 
the poison till it could receive no more ; and then it dropped 
off". The stone was then laid in milk, that it might purge itself 
of the poison ; and it did so presently, the poison turning the 
milk yellow. The stone, as soon as it was purged, was again 
applied to the wound ; and when it had drank in its dose, it was 
again laid in milk. And this was reiterated till such time as 
the stone had exhausted all the poison : after which the arm 
was quickly healed." 

Mr. Thunberg also tells us that the farmers in the Cape-Colo- 
ny cure the bites of serpents, and of other venomous reptiles, 
by means of the " slange-steen," or snake-stone. " It is import- 
ed," he says, " from the Indies, especially from Malabar, and 
costs several rix-dollars. It is convex on one side, of a black 
color, with a pale ash-gray speck in the middle, and tubulated, 
with very minute pores. When thrown into water, it causes 

1 Turtle blood is also asserted to be a good remedy against wounds caused by 
poisoned arrows. 



THE SNAKE-STONE. 239 

bubbles to rise, which is a proof of its being genuine ; as it is, 
also, that if put into the mouth, it adheres to the palate. When 
it is applied to any part that has been bitten by a serpent, it 
sticks fast to the wound, and extracts the poison ; as soon as it 
is saturated, it falls off of itself. If it be then put into milk, it 
is supposed to be purified from the poison it had absorbed, and 
the milk is said to be turned blue by it. Frequently, however, 
the wound is scarified with a razor, previously to the application 
of the stone." 

" This antidote," says Barrow, when speaking of the snake- 
stone, " appears to be, in fact, nothing more than a piece of firm 
bone of some animal made into an oval shape, and burnt round 
the edges so as to leave a whitish spot in the middle. The 
country-people, who purchase this remedy under the idea of its 
being a stone taken out of the head of a certain species of ser- 
pent, were very much astonished on being told that it was only 
a piece of bone ; and the more so, on finding that this substance 
stood their test of the goodness of the slange-steen, which was 
that of throwing out bubbles on the surface when immersed in 
water. To the porosity of the bone may be ascribed its healing 
qualities, if it actually possess any ; for which reason, any 
other substance made up of capillary tubes, as common sponge, 
for instance, might perhaps be equally efficacious." 

To resume. — Our journey to Rehoboth was unattended with 
any very remarkable incident, and we reached that place in 
safety, after an absence of twenty-three days. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

THE AUTHOR'S TENT TAKES FIRE HE LOSES EVERYTHING BUT HIS PAPERS 

HE IS LAID ON A BED OF SICKNESS WANT OF MEDICINE, ETC. RE- 
FLECTIONS WHOLE VILLAGES INFECTED WITH. FEVER ABUNDANCE OF 

GAME EXTRAORDINARY • SHOT AT AN OSTRICH A LION BREAKFASTS ON 

HIS WIFE WONDERFUL SHOOTING STAR REMARKABLE MIRAGE — GAME 

AND LIONS PLENTIFUL THE EBONY TREE ARRIVAL AT BETHANY, A 

MISSIONARY STATION THE TROUBLE OF A LARGE HERD OF CATTLE— 

A THIRSTY MAN'S COGITATION CURIOUS SUPERSTITION THE DAMARA. 

CATTLE DESCRIBED PEOPLE WHO LIVE ENTIRELY WITHOUT WATER 

CROSS THE ORANGE RIVER STERILE COUNTRY. 

The old adage, "Misfortunes never come singly," was exem- 
plified in my case. The wound in my leg being now nearly 
healed, we were preparing to leave Rehobotn, when one even- 
ing my hut accidentally caught fire, and being entirely con- 
structed of dry grass and sticks, it was burnt to the ground be- 
fore anything of moment could be saved. By rushing through 
the flames, however, I fortunately succeeded in preserving the 
greater part of my papers and memoranda, which to me were 
invaluable. I also rescued my saddle ; but, in so doing, my 
clothes took fire, and I had a very narrow escape from being 
burnt to death. A shirt, a pair of trowsers, a cap, and a pair of 
under-done shoes, which had not been long enough at the fire to 
be thoroughly roasted, were all that was left to me. My situa- 
tion, consequently, was not very enviable. Through the kind- 
ness of Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Vollmer, however, I was once 
more enabled to appear decently appareled. 

But I was soon destined to experience a greater calamity. A 
few stages south of Rehoboth, which we left on the 22nd of 



THE AUTHOR IS SEIZED WITH FEVER. 241 

April, enroute to the Cape, and while encamped on the banks of 
the Hountop, I was attacked by intermittent fever, which 
quickly carried me to the verge of the grave. My sufferings 
and privations during this period were indeed severe. Regu- 
larly every morning at eleven o'clock I was seized with a vio- 
lent shivering fit, which lasted three hours. Then came the 
fever, of almost as long duration, accompanied by racking head- 
ache and profuse perspiration. After this, my head was tolera- 
bly free from pain ; but I wds so completely exhausted, that to 
turn in my bed was a laborious effort. The climate, moreover, 
at this season, was very trying ; for, whilst the days were mode- 
rately warm (the thermometer averaging 65° at noon), the 
nights were piercingly cold and frosty. At sunrise, the ice was 
from an eighth part of an inch to one inch thick. I became 
very sensitive to these changes, inasmuch as, during the greater 
part of the illness, I was compelled to sleep in the open air, 
having previously disposed of our wagons to the natives. What 
little medicine I once possessed, was consumed in the recent 
conflagration; and the missionaries — owing to the fever having 
broken out most alarmingly among themselves and the natives — 
were unable to spare me any. To add to my misfortunes, 
no suitable food was procurable. Milk and meat were my 
only diet. The latter I could not digest, and the former 
soon became insipid to my taste. The men, it is true, had 
once the good fortune to surprise an ostrich in its nest, but the 
eggs were too rich and heavy for my weak stomach. 

Up to this period, my busy and roving life had left me but 
little time for serious reflection. Now, however, that the cares 
of the world no longer occupied my thoughts, I felt the full 
force of my lonely situation. During the long and sleepless 
nights, I was often seized with an indescribable sensation of sad- 
ness and melancholy. Death itself I did not fear ; but to perish 
in a foreign land, in the midst of strangers, far away from all I 
loved, was an idea to which I could hardly reconcile myself. 
What hand would close my eyes? what mourner would follow 
my coffin ? or what friend would shed a tear on my lonely and 
distant grave '( 

I was alone ! Oh, may the reader never experience the full 
meaning of that melancholy word ! 

After upwards of two months of no ordinary sufferings, 
my strong constitution prevailed, and I was convalescent ; 
but several weeks elapsed before I recovered my usual health 
and vigor. 

John Allen was also seriously ill from the same malady, 
16 



242 EXTRAORDINARY SHOT AT AN OSTRICH. 

which had the character of an epidemic ; for, in a very short 
time, it spread like wild-fire throughout the length and breadth 
of Great Namaqua-land, and vast numbers of people suc- 
cumbed under it. The disease, indeed, was of so destructive a 
nature, that it swept off whole villages. In one kraal in par- 
ticular, all the inhabitants perished, and the cattle were left to 
take care of themselves. 

Fever (the cause of which is unknown) is not common in 
these parts, and makes it appearance only occasionally. 

We had pitched our tent, as already said, near the Hountop 
river. The country thereabout was a succession of vleys or 
gullies, then filled with excellent clear water, teeming with wa- 
ter-fowl. Quails, birds of the grouse tribe, and wood-pigeons, 
were also numerous. Of the larger animals we had the zebra, 
the springbok, the ostrich, and an occasional oryx and harte- 
beest ; but, from their being much persecuted by the natives, 
combined with nakedness of the country, they were extremely 
wary and difficult of approach. 

Game of many kinds being thus abundant, it may well be 
supposed that, as soon as my strength permitted me to carry a 
gun, I at once took the field, as well for amusement, as for the 
purpose of replenishing our larder, which was but very ill-sup- 
plied. 

One day I made a capital shot at an ostrich, which, when 
running at full speed, I brought down at the long distance of 
two hundred and thirty paces. On a previous occasion I killed 
one of these splendid birds when upwards of three hundred 
paces from me. 

Another day I had the good fortune to shoot a rhinoceros. 
He was probably a straggler ; for these animals have long since 
disappeared from the part of the country where we were then 
encamped — and, indeed, are now very rarely to be met with 
south of the Kuisip river. 

Early one morning, one of our herdsmen came running up to 
us in great fright, and announced that a lion was devouring a 
lioness ! We thought, at first, that the man must be mistaken ; 
but his story was perfectly true, and only her skull, the larger 
bones, and the skin, were left. On examining the ground more 
closely, the fresh remains of a young springbok were also dis- 
covered. We therefore conjectured that the lion and lioness being 
very hungry, and the antelope not proving a sufficient meal for 
both, they had quarreled ; and he, after killing his wife, had 
coolly eaten her also. A most substantial breakfast it must 
have been ! 



SHOOTING STA R M IRAGE. 243 

On only one other occasion have I known lions to prey on 
each other. This was when on my way to Lake Ngami. On a 
certain night, we had badly wounded a lion. He retreated 
growlingly into the bush, and immediately afterwards a whole 
troop of lions rushed upon their disabled brother and tore him 
to pieces. 

A singular and interesting atmospheric phenomenon occurred 
at Hountop. Between seven and eight o'clock in the evening 
of the 24th of June, when reading by the side of my bivouac 
fire, I was suddenly startled by the whole atmosphere becoming 
brilliantly — nay, almost painfully — illuminated. On turning 
to the quarter of the heavens whence this radiance proceeded, I 
discovered a most magnificent shooting star, passing slowly, in an 
oblique direction, through space, with an immense tail attached 
to it, and emitting sparks of dazzling light. The fire by which I 
sat was exceedingly bright, and the moon clear and brilliant ; yet 
they were both totally eclipsed by this immense body of light. 

Its great beauty and brilliancy might, perhaps, be best real- 
ized, by saying that it was like a star of the second or third 
order when compared to the moon at full. 

After a time, the pasturage being nearly exhausted in the 
neighborhood of the Hountop, we removed our camp a few 
miles southward, to another periodical river called the Aam- 
houp. During our stay here, we observed some very striking 
and singular horizontal refractions of the air. Once I saw an 
ostrich walking on the horizon line, whilst its double — clear and 
well defined — appeared immediately above it. Both the os- 
trich and its double, moreover, were divided into three different 
portions by as many different strata of air. 

Again, regularly every morning, for nearly a month, the pro- 
jecting ledge of a rock was converted into the semblance of a 
splendid and embattled castle. As the atmosphere became uni- 
formly heated, the mirage melted away into a soft, watery 
haze. 

In usual refractions, the inverted image of an object generally 
appears above the object itself; but occasionally the effect is 
reversed. Captain Scoresby, the well-known Arctic navigator, 
once by these means discovered his father's vessel the day 
before it actually came in sight. 

It has long puzzled the learned to account for the mirage. 
I believe, however, it is now pretty well known to arise from 
the unequal density and temperature of the lower strata of 
air. 

The abundance of good water and pasturage had enabled our 



244 GAME AND LIONS NUMEROUS BETHANY. 

cattle to get into excellent condition ; and as the season was 
now far advanced, and I was sufficiently well to travel, we 
deemed it necessary to move slowly on towards the Cape- 
Colony. Accordingly, on the 9th of July, we left our camp on 
the Aamhoup — a place where we had experienced both misery 
and happiness. 

Our course lay along, and at the foot of, a very picturesque 
range of table hills, averaging about one thousand feet in 
height. To the westward were also mountains of a similar 
nature, but less regular. They were of the trap formation, and 
consisted chiefly of limestone. 

Water continued for a time to be tolerably abundant, but 
pasturage began soon to fail us. Two causes were to be as- 
signed for this — namely, the devastation of the locusts, and the 
inferior quality of the soil, which became stony, interspersed 
here and there with ridges of sand. 

Amongst the. latter, we encountered herds of gemsboks, and 
troops of lions following on their scent. The mere sight of the 
tracks of the latter frightened a friend, with whom I was 
traveling, almost out of his wits. We were riding in advance 
of our cattle at the time, and it was with difficulty that I could 
prevent him from returning with precipitation. 

On the 4th of August, we arrived in the neighborhood of 
another Rhenish missionary station, called Bethany. Here we 
met with the ebony-tree, of which I had only before seen a few 
stragglers in the Swakop river, near the Usab gorge. Hence, 
on to the Orange river, this tree became more or less abundant ; 
but it was stunted and gnarled. Our bivouac fires usually con- 
sisted of its wood. 

Whilst Hans and the men were busy preparing our food and 
camp for the night, I strolled on to the station, which I found 
deserted by every living creature. Only a short time pre- 
viously, the Rev. Mr. Knudsen officiated here, but had been 
obliged to leave on account of some disagreement with the native 
tribe and its chief, David Christian. It had always been con- 
sidered as inferior to most of the other missionary stations in this 
part of Africa ; but, what with the absence of the inhabitants, 
the devastation of the locust, which had destroyed every par- 
ticle of vegetation — and the black and parched appearance of the 
soil, it now looked wild and dreary in the extreme. The 
lengthened shadows of evening threw an additional gloom over 
this once busy scene of cheerful industry. Oh, changes, mys- 
terious and incomprehensible ! Surely, 1 God, in his infinite 
wisdom, will not permit the handy-work of his servants, raised 



TROUBLE ATTENDANT ON A HERD OF CATTLE. 24-5 

only by years of perseverance, toil, and privations, to perish 
without some recompense ! 

Bethany, if I am not mistaken, became a scene of missionary 
labor as early as 1820. The enterprising and venerable Mr. 
Schmelen then officiated here, but he found it necessary, after a 
time, to abandon the place. Subsequently to his departure, it 
remained deserted for upwards of twenty years, when, in 1843, 
it was once more tenanted, and at this time by Mr. Knudsen, 
who, in his turn, as seen above, was obliged to move off else- 
where. 

After leaving Bethany, water and pasturage became every 
day more scarce. All the vleys and pools of rain-water were 
dried up. The Koanquip river, however, long befriended us, 
as in its bed we generally managed to obtain a supply of grass 
and water for our cattle, which now amounted to several 
hundred head. 

But the labor and fatigue of watering the latter was immense. 
No person who has not been circumstanced as we were, can 
form the least conception of the trouble, care, and anxiety, that 
a large drove of cattle occasions. Perhaps, when, after having 
dug for twenty consecutive hours — and this I have done more than 
once — the water is found insufficient in quantity, or (which is 
almost as bad) the ground falls in, or the cattle themselves 
spoil it by their wallowing and excrement. 

These native cattle are the most troublesome and disgusting 
brutes possible ; for, after having spoiled the water by their own 
wildness and wantonness, they rush furiously about bellow- 
ing and moaning. It is enough to discourage the stoutest 
heart. 

When arriving at a place where we supposed water was to 
be found, the plan usually adopted, in order to guard against 
the cattle destroying our work, was to send them away to pas- 
ture. In the mean time, every available man went speedily to 
work with such implements as were procurable : spades, 
wooden troughs, pieces of wood or of bark, were indifferently 
put in requisition ; and even our hands were used with great 
effect, though not without sustaining injury. Having worked 
the aperture of sufficient depth and width, it was fenced in by 
thorn-bushes, leaving only a single entrance. The oxen were 
then sent for, and allowed to approach singly or in greater num- 
ber, according to the extent of the water. Sometimes, however, 
if the nature of the ground did not permit the cattle to have 
access to the water, a hollow was scooped in the earth, near 
the edge of the pit, into which (or into a piece of sail-cloth, if 



246 A THIRSTY MAN'S COGITATIONS. 

at hand) the water was poured by means of small wooden pails, 
usually denominated " bamboos." 

Owing to this tedious process, coupled with the slowness 
with which water niters through sand, and the immense quan- 
tity (usually five to six buckets full) that a thirsty ox will 
drink, and the quarrelsome disposition of the animals them- 
selves — watering four hundred head of cattle will often occupy a 
whole day or night. And, since a person is in a great degree 
dependent on his cattle, whether for food, draught, etc., he, 
himself, must never think of refreshment or rest until their 
wants have been provided for. 

The scarcity of water, and the uncertainty of finding it, in 
these parched regions, is so great, that, when after a long day's 
journey the anxiously-looked-for pool is found to be dry, it is 
almost enough to drive a man mad, especially if he be a stranger 
to the country, and unaccustomed to traversing the African 
wilds. One's cogitations at such times are apt to be something 
to the following effect : — " If I advance and do not find water 
within a certain period, it will be inevitable destruction. To 
retrace my steps to the last watering-place, is not to be thought 
of, as, from the distance and the exhausted state of the cattle, it 
would never be reached. What remains for me but to lie down 
and die ?" 

The common people at the Cape entertain a notion, that 
cattle refrain from feeding only once within the year — namely, 
on Christmas-eve. Then, it is affirmed, they fall on their knees, 
and, with closed mouths and half-shut eyes (a sign of placidity) 
silently thank the Giver of all good things for the grass and 
water they have enjoyed during the past twelve months. They 
say, moreover, that a person may witness this act of devotion, 
by keeping well to leeward and out of sight of the animals. 1 

Our cattle consisted chiefly of the Damara-breed, which, so 
far as I am aware, differs widely from any found in Europe. 
They are big-boned, but not particularly weighty ; their legs 
are slender, and they have small, hard, and durable feet. The 
hair on the body is short, smooth, and glossy, and the extremity 
of the tail is adorned with a tuft of long, bushy hair, nearly 
touching the ground. This tuft constitutes the chief ornament 
of the Damara assegai. 

1 This superstition is common in Devonshire, in the western parts of which it 
used, till lately, to be affirmed, " that at twelve o'clock at night on Christmas-eve 
the oxen in their stalls are always found on their knees in an attitude of devotion ; 
and that, since the alteration of the style, they continue to do this only on the 
eve of old Christmas-day." Bravo, oxen ! — (See Brand's " Popular Antiquities.") 



ENORMOUS HORNS 



247 



But the horns are the most remarkable feature in the Damara 
cattle. They are usually placed on the head at an angle of from 
forty-five to ninety degrees, and are at times beautifully arched 
and twisted, but rarely bent inwards. They are of an incredi- 
ble length ; and one often meets with oxen, the tips of whose 
horns are from seven to eight feet apart. 




SKULL OF A BECHUANA OX. 



The Bechuana cattle (of greater bulk and stouter proportions) 
seem even to surpass the Damara cattle in this respect. Amongst 
many other curious and interesting objects, there is now in the 
collection of Colonel Thomas Steel, of Upper Brook-street, a 
perfect cranium of a young Bechuana ox, 1 of which the wood- 
cut is a fair representation. The following are its dimen- 
sions : — 

Entire length of horns from tip to tip along the curve 

Distance (straight) between the tips of the horns 

Circumference of horns at the root 

Breadth of cranium between the eyes . 

Length " ... 

But I have been told on good authority, that in some parts 
of Africa horns of cattle are found greatly to exceed the above 
dimensions. The horns, indeed, are of so enormous a size, as 
seriously to inconvenience the animal. Their length and weight 
have been known to be so great as to twist the head to one side 
— one of the horns dragging on the ground, whilst the other 
pointed upwards. 

The Damaras prize their oxen in proportion to the size of 
their horns. Some African tribes take much pains in forming 
them of a certain shape. T\ds is effected either by sawing off 



13ft. 


5in. 


8 


8* 


1 


6i 





9* 


2 


2 



1 This remarkable beast was a long time in the possession of Mr. Oswell, who, 
I believe, intended to bring it alive to England, but unavoidable circumstances 
prevented this distinguished traveler from carrying his plan into execution. 



248 NATIVES FOND OF UNIFORM TEAMS. 

the tips, splitting them, bending them forcibly when yet tender, 
and so forth. 

The Damara cow is of slender proportions and very wild. 
Before she can be milked, it is always needful to lash her head 
to a tree, in like manner as the Laplanders treat their rein- 
deer, or to tie her hind legs together. The best cow rarely 
gives more than two or three pints of milk daily ; and should 
her calf die, or be taken from her, she absolutely refuses to give 
any at all, in which case it is necessary to resort to artificial 
means. One plan is to stuff a calf-skin with hay or grass, and 
afterwards place it on the ground for the cow to slobber over. 
Sometimes the adoption of the latter expedient gives rise to 
ludicrous scenes ; for the cow, when tenderly caressing her sup- 
posed offspring, has all at once got scent of the hay or grass, 
when, thrusting her snout into the skin, she has greedily de- 
voured its contents ! 

The Damaras, as well as other nations, take great delight in 
having whole droves of cattle of the same color. The Naraa- 
quas has a perfect mania for a uniform team. Bright brown is 
the favorite color; and I myself have always found beasts of 
this hue to be the strongest and most generally serviceable. 
Dark brown oxen with a yellowish streak along the back — by 
the Dutch designated " geel-bak" — are also usually stout and 
enduring. Yellow, and more especially white, oxen are consid- 
ered weak and unable to bear much fatigue or hardship. 

The Damaras, as with almost every other people of Southern 
Africa, value their cattle next to their women, and take a pride 
in possessing animals that look high bred. The ox, in fact, 
forms the chief theme of the songs of the Damaras. They, more- 
over, rarely or never make use of a handsome animal as a beast 
of burden, but employ quiet, ugly bulls for such purposes. 
These have a buffalo look about them, and their horns, more- 
over, rarely attain to any size. 

From their quick step, good feet, and enduring powers, the 
Damara cattle are much prized by the farmers of the Cape-Colo- 
ny. The only drawback is their wildness, and immense size of 
their horns, which they sometimes use with fatal effect. 

The day before we reached the Orange river, we fell in with 
a kraal of Hottentots, whom, to our great surprise, we found 
living in a locality altogether destitute of water ! The milk of 
their cows and goats supplied its place. Their cattle, more- 
over never obtained water, but found a substitute in a kind of 
ice plant {mesembryantheimwi) of an exceedingly succulent nature, 
which abounds in these regions. But our own oxen, not accus- 



MEN AND CATTLE LIVE WITHOUT WATER. 249 

tomed to such diet, would rarely or never touch it. Until I 
had actually convinced myself — as I had often the opportunity 
of doing at an after period — that men and beasts could live en- 
tirely without water, I should, perhaps, have had some difficulty 
in realizing this singular fact. 

On the 21st of August, we effected the passage of the Orange 
river in safety, at what is called the Zedlings Drift, or the 
missionary ford. We had no boat ; and those of the men who 
could not swim were obliged to lay hold of the tails of the cattle, 
to which they pertinaciously clung. On gaining the oppo- 
site bank, which was very steep, the oxen, in climbing it, 
entirely submerged their charge, to the great delight and 
amusement of such of their companions as had landed at a more 
convenient point. 

The Orange river was at this season almost at its lowest, yet 
it was a noble and highly picturesque stream. Looking east- 
wards, its aspect was particularly imposing. Its breadth at this 
point might have been from two to three hundred yards. The 
banks were on both sides lined with evergreen thorns, drooping 
willows, ebony trees, etc. ; and the water forced its passage 
through a bold and striking gorge, overhung by precipices from 
two to three thousand feet high. But the country all round 
was desolate. The hills, which at some distant period had 
evidently been subject to volcanic eruptions, had a sunburnt, 
and crumbling appearance, and were almost wholly destitute of 
vegetation. The soil in the neighborhood of the mountains 
consisted of pure sand, and was covered with low and succulent 
shrubs, from which our cattle, hitherto accustomed to revel in 
the almost boundless savannahs of Damara-land, turned with 
disgust. The country for several weeks' journey in advance of 
us was represented as of a similar nature. 

We began now seriously to tremble for the poor beasts, which 
had already lost flesh. Upwards of two months' traveling had 
to be performed before we could reach our destination. 

With the exception of that portion of Namaqua-land and 
Damara-land bordering on the coast, the part of the country I 
speak of has the most inauspicious appearance I ever saw. Its 
sterility arises probably from being situated near the limit, not 
only of the fc " thunder- rains," but of the regular rains ("mist- 
rains," as they are called in- the colony), and the consequent 
frequency of great droughts. Indeed, scarcely any rain falls 
here in some years. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

GREAT KAMAQUA-LAND ITS BOUND AMES AND EXTENT ITS RIVERS- 
NATURE OF THE COUNTRY VEGETATION AND CLIMATE GEOLOGICAL 

STRUCTURE MINERALS " TOPNAARS " AND " OERLAMS " HOUSES MY 

THOLOGY AND RELIGION TUMULI WONDERFUL ROCK CURIOUS LEGEND 

OF THE HARE COMING OF AGE THE WITCH-DOCTOR AMULETS SUPER 

STTTIONS A NAMAQUA'S NOTION OF THE SUN MARRIAGE POLYGAMY 

CHILDREN BARBAROUS PRACTICE LONGEVITY SINGULAR CUSTOMS- 
ORNAMENTS TATTOOING — ARMS IDLE HABITS FOND OF AMUSEMENTS 

MUSIC AND DANCING SPIRITS MEAD DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

Having now brought my narrative to a period when I am 
about to leave Great Namaqua-land, it may be well to say a 
few words of this country, its inhabitants, their manners and 
customs, etc. 

The portion of Africa known as Namaqua-land is divided into 
two distinct parts, viz., Little and Great Namaqua-land. By 
the former is understood the territory (now British) between 
the Orange river and about the 31st degree of latitude on the 
south. By the latter, the country between the last-named river 
and Damara-land, its eastern boundary being the Kalahari 
desert ; whilst on the west it is washed by the billows of the 
Atlantic ocean. 

Great Namaqua-land covers a surface of no less than one hun- 
dred and twelve thousand geographical square-miles, 1 with, pro- 
bably, a population of scarcely thirty thousand souls, or less 
than four persons to the square-mile. Excepting the great 

1 Or about 148.000 English square miles. The area of Damara-land is about 
29,000 English square miles. 



GREAT NAM A QUA- LAND CLIMATE. 251 

Sahara itself, there is, perhaps, not a country in the world, of 
equal extent, so scantily peopled, so destitute of water, so dismal, 
and so generally barren and useless. It is truly a *' region of 
curses." 

The coast-line of Great Namaqua-land, like that of Damara- 
land, consists of a dreary, sandy waste, extending in places from 
thirty to forty miles into the interior — in others to a hundred or 
more — and is, with very few exceptions, uninhabitable. 

Some of the rivers, such as the Kuisip, and others of little 
importance, empty themselves into the Atlantic ; but the larger 
portion run in an easterly direction, and are chiefly tributaries 
to the Fish river. This remarkable water-course, which takes 
its rise in the most northerly limit of Great Namaqua-land, 
finally joins the Orange river about three or four days' journey 
from where the latter finds an outlet into the sea — thus inter- 
secting the country throughout its entire length. 

Great Namaqua-land is characterized by immense sandy plains, 
traversed by hill and rock, and thickly strewn with quartz, 
which reflects a dazzling and perplexing light. Two to three 
days' journey south of Rehoboth, the dense thorny bush, so 
peculiar to Damara-land, ceases, and, with the exception of a 
few mimosas along the water-courses, and occasional ebony-trees, 
the arboreous vegetation is scanty and stunted. For more than 
six months of the year, it is scorched by an almost vertical sun. 
The rains, which are always accompanied by heavy thunder, are 
periodical and very partial. In its northern portion, the wet 
season sets in at the same time as in Damara-land ; but in a 
southerly direction, the rains are later and more uncertain ; and, 
as has been said in the last chapter, little or none falls about 
the lower course of the Orange river and the neighborhood. 
The springs (which are often either hot or salt) are indifferent 
and scantily distributed. The periodical water-courses, there- 
fore, afford the chief supply. 

The Namaquas, as well as the Damaras, are loud in their 
complaints that less rain falls now than half a century back. 
Indeed, the numerous ancient beds of rivers in the vast sandy 
plains, and the deeply-scored slopes and sides of the now " sun- 
burnt " and crumbling hills, clearly indicate that almost the 
whole country north of the Orange river, as far as Europeans 
have penetrated from the Cape side, has, at some former period, 
been much more abundantly watered. In some parts, the de- 
struction of forests, which aTe well known to retain and condense 
vapory particles, may partly account for such atmospheric 
changes ; but in this region we must look for other causes. 



252 MINERALS T0PNAARS AND OERLAMS. 

In a geological point of view, Great Namaqua-land presents 
many interesting features. Between the Orange river and 
Walfisch Bay, beginning at the sea-side, three distinct terrace- 
like risings of the country are recognized. Besides the granite, 
which is the prevailing rock, great masses of quartz are met 
with, either, as aforesaid, scattered over its surface, or filling 
up the large gaps aud fissures occasioned by ancient eruptions. 
Iron and sandstone, and slate formations, are also not uncom- 
mon. 

At some remote period, this land must have been subjected 
to volcanic agencies ; and though not one of these has taken 
place in the memory of the present generation, rumbling noises 
underground and tremors of the earth are of frequent occurrence. 
The existence of hot water springs ; the confusion of the fan- 
tastically and curiously-shaped hills — " the strata bending and 
dipping from the perpendicular to the horizontal, and in others 
extending in a straight line from one hill to another" — bear 
ample testimony to its volcanic nature. The presence, more- 
over, of vast quantities of minerals is a further evidence of its 
igneous character. Tin, lead, iron, and copper ore is often met 
with. I have had specimens of the latter mineral in my posses- 
sion containing from forty to ninety per cent, of pure metal. 
At eight to ten days' journey with " ox wagon," east of the 
missionary station, Bethany, meteoric iron is found in apparently 
inexhaustible quantities. I have seen lumps, of several hundred 
weights, brought from thence, so pure and malleable that the 
natives converted it into balls for their guns, etc., without any 
previous application of fire. As Great Namaqua-land becomes 
better known, it is more than probable that it will be found 
equally prolific in minerals — if not more so — as Little Nama- 
qua-land, where, of late, extensive and valuable mines have been 
brought to light. 

The term Hottentot, and Namaqua, have probably originated 
with Europeans, since neither is found in the native language. 
The Hottentots of these regions may be divided in two great 
branches, viz., the "Topnaars," and the " Oerlams." With the 
latter is generally understood the new-comers, and the semi- 
civilized ; but the real signification of the term is doubtful. 
Some conjecture the " Oerlam" to be a corruption of the Dutch 
word " o'erland," or overland, that is, people who have come 
overland. Be this as it may, the Namaqua-Hottentots consider 
it a compliment to be addressed as " Oerlam." " Topnaar," on 
the other hand, signifies the First, the Highest, the Great, or 
those who originally inhabited Great Namaqua-land, and they 



TRIBE S H O U S E S M YTHOLOG Y R ELIGION. 253 

view with considerable jealousy the progress and superiority 
of the " Oerlams," whom they justly consider as intruders. 

The northern Namaquas are divided into numerous tribes, 
each under petty chiefs. The principal of these are Jonker 
Afrikaner, Cornelius, Amral, Zwartbooi, Jan Boois, William 
Fransman, Paul Goliath, David Christian, and Bondel Zwartz. 

The Namaquas dwell in small, round huts, made on the same 
principle as those of the Damaras, and covered with mats com- 
posed of rushes, which are prepared in the following manner : — 
A quantity of the inner bark of the mimosa is collected and 
dried. When wanted for immediate use, the required portion 
is put into hot water and softened. Each member of the 
family then fills his mouth with as much of the fibre as it can 
hold, and chews it until it becomes quite pliable, when it is at 
once converted into strings by the rude process of twisting it on 
the naked leg. A large quantity is in this manner manufac- 
tured in an incredibly short time. The rushes are then cut to 
the desired length, and laid out on the ground singly, and in a 
row, when holes are made — at intervals of about two inches — 
through each rush, and the string in question passed through 
them by means of a bone or thorn needle. The ends of the 
rushes, however, are secured more strongly by back-stitches. 
These mats serve a double purpose. In warm weather they 
are open and airy, whilst, being of a porous texture, a shower 
closes them, and after a while they become proof against the 
most deluging rains. 

When they remove their habitations, these mattings and the 
framework of the hut, which consists of semicircular boughs, 
are packed on oxen. Their household utensils, such as cala- 
bashes, milk-pails, pots, etc., are suspended to the boughs, and 
in the midst of all this confusion is often seated the good dame 
of the house, surrounded by her promising offspring. 

It has been asserted by travelers and others, that the Nama- 
quas have not the slightest idea of a Superior Being, or of a life 
hereafter. Yet they believe in Heitjeebib, or Heitjekobib, 
whom they consider to have the power to grant or with- 
hold them success and prosperity. But whether Heitjeebib is 
a deity, a goblin, or merely a deified ancestor, I shall not pre- 
sume to say. At all events, they affirm he exists in the graves 
of all deceased people ; and whenever a Hottentot passes a 
burial-place, he invariably throws a stone, a bush, or other 
token of offering and affection, on the tomb, pronouncing the 
name of Heitjeebib, and invoking his blessing and protection in 
his undertakings. From being thus constantly added to, these 



254 CURIOUS LEGEND. 

heaps often attain a great size. They are found throughout the 
country (I have observed them even in Damara-land), and fre- 
quently in situations perfectly " stoneless," from which it may 
be inferred that the natives carry the materials a long distance. 
Captain Harris mentions having seen similar heaps amongst the 
Matabili, but was unable to account for their presence. The 
Hottentots have an indistinct notion that they came from an 
easterly direction, and it is possible that the stone tumuli found 
by the traveler may have something to do with this tra- 
dition. 

The natives in these parts have a strange tale of a rock, in 
which the tracks of all the different animals indigenous to the 
country are distinctly visible ; moreover, that man and beast lived 
here together in great amity, but one day, from some unknown 
cause, their Deity appeared unxepectedly and dispersed them. 
I never had the good fortune to obtain a sight of this marvelous 
rock. Mr. Moffat, who makes mention of a similar story pre- 
vailing among the Bechuanas, was equally unsuccessful. " Once 
I heard a man of influence," says the reverend gentleman, 
" telling his story on the subject. I, of course, could not say 
that I believed the wondrous tale ; but very mildly hinted that 
he might be misinformed ; on which he swore, by his ancestors 
and his king, that he had visited the spot, and paid a tax to see 
the wonder ; and that, consequently, his testimony was indu- 
bitable." 

The Namaquas have the following singular superstition with 
regard to the hare, which no adult is allowed to eat. The le- 
gend involves the sublime Christian doctrine of immortality. 

Once upon a time, the moon called the hare, and commanded 
him to convey to man the following message : — " As I die and 
am born again, 1 so you shall die and be again alive." The hare 
hastened to obey ; but instead of saying, u As I die, and am born 
again," he said, "As I die, and am not born again." On his return, 
the moon inquired what words he had conveyed to mankind ; 
and, on being informed, the luminary exclaimed — " What ! have 
you said to man, ' As I die and am not born again, so you shall 
die and not be again alive !' " And with this he hurled a stick 
at the hare, with such force as to split open his lips, which is 
the cause of the peculiar formation of this animal's mouth. The 
hare quickly betook himself to flight, and is said to be flying to 
the present day. The old Namaquas used to say : — " We are 

1 When speaking of the moon, the Namaquas do not say, like ourselves, that it 
rises and sets, but that " it dies and is born again." 



THE WITCH-DOCTOR. 255 

still enraged with the hare, because he has brought such a bad 
message, and we will not eat him." 

On the occasion of a youth coming of age, or rather when 
becoming a " man," there is great rejoicing. From that day 
forward, he is forbidden to eat the hare, or even to come in con- 
tact with the fire where this animal has been prepared. Should 
he transgress this command, he is not unfrequently banished 
from his werft ; though, on paying a fine, he may again be 
admitted to the community. He is, moreover, no longer per- 
mitted to " suck the goats." 1 

The Namaquas, like almost all nations who are sunk in 
barbarism, have great faith in sorcery ; and male and female 
witch-doctors equally play conspicuous parts. These impostors 
are supposed to have the power to procure rain, to restore the 
sick to health, to discover the cause of a person's death, and to 
perform other miracles. They are crafty creatures, and know 
how to take advantage of the popular ignorance. Even civil- 
ized men have been deceived by their wiles. Their principal 
stipulation before they exercise any of their arts is to have some 
animal slaughtered, which they prescribe according to their 
fancy and to the wealth of their patients. Mr. Moffat tells us that 
a stout ox might be a cure for a slight cold in a chieftain, while 
a kid would be a remedy for a fever among the poor, from whom 
there could be no chance of obtaining anything greater. 

The Namaqua witch-doctor is called kaiaob, or kaiaobs, if a 
woman. On being called to the sick-bed, after having examined 
the patient, he or she generally declares that the ailment is 
caused by a great snake (toros) having fired an arrow into the 
stomach. The sorcerer operates by feeling this part of the body, 
and by a good squeezing endeavors to coax the illness away. 
Another approved plan is to make a small incision on the body 
about the place where the cause of the disease is supposed to 
lurk, and to suck it out. The production of a snake, a frog, an 
insect, or the like, is frequently the result. Eyebrecht solemnly 
declared that he once was an eye-witness to such an operation 
on a woman at Jonker's place. When the witch-doctor arrived, 
a sheep was killed, and the sinews of the back were cut out and 
rolled up into a small ball, which the patient was made to 
swallow; the remainder of the animal, of course, being appro- 
priated to the sorcerer's own stomach. A few days afterwards, 
the wizard returned, and cut some small holes in the abdomen 

1 It is a practice among the young Namaquas to hold a goat between the knees, 
and draw the milk directly from the teats of the animal into their own mouths. 



256 AMULET S T RANSFORMATION. 

of the patient, on which a small snake escaped, then a lizard, 
numerous other animals following. 

To become a witch-doctor of any importance, a person is 
required to be instructed by one previously well versed in the 
mysteries of the black art. He must begin his lessons by swal- 
lowing animal poison, be bitten by venomous reptiles, or have 
poison inoculated into his body. A cap, a handkerchief, or, any 
sort of clothing worn by such a person until it has become per- 
fectly saturated with filth, is considered the most infallible cure 
for all kinds of diseases, poisonous bites, etc. On emergencies, 
a corner of this treasure is washed, and the dirty-water thus 
produced is given to the patient — beast or man — to drink. 
The chief, Amral, assured me that he possessed a cap of this 
kind, with which he had effected innumerable cures. "It is sure," 
he said, " to cause relief when nothing else is of any avail." 
The witch-doctors have also other disgusting methods of effect- 
ing cures. 

Like most of the tribes in Southern Africa, the Namaquas 
have great faith in amulets, which consist, as usual, of the teeth 
and claws of lions, hyeenas, and other wild beasts ; pieces of 
wood, bone, dried flesh and fat, roots of plants, etc. 

When a chief died, it was formerly customary to call the 
whole tribe together, and to give a grand feast in honor of the 
occasion. The fat, and all the choice parts of the slaughtered 
animals, were preserved for the son of the deceased, who was to 
succeed his father in the chieftainship. 1 The raw fat was placed 
on his head, and worn until it became dry, when it was trans- 
ferred to some crone, who carefully preserved it as a much- 
prized amulet. 

During his journeyings in Great Namaqua-land, Sir James 
Alexander was told by the natives, that the bushwomen have 
it in their power to change their forms into lions, hyaenas, and 
other beasts of prey. The following legend illustrates this 
superstition : 

" Once on a time, a certain Namaqua was traveling in com- 
pany with a bushwoman carrying a child on her back. They 
had proceeded some distance on their journey, when a troop of 
wild horses (zebras) appeared, and the man said to the woman, 
' I am hungry ; and as I know you can turn yourself into a lion, 
do so now, and catch us a wild horse, that we may eat.' 

_ l After a great hunt, it was also the custom to reserve for the chief the best 
pieces of the different kind of game which had been killed, such as the breast of 
the eland, the hump of the rhinoceros, and so forth ; the rest being divided amongst 
the tribe. 



MARRIAGE. 257 

" The woman answered, 'you'll be afraid.' 

" ' No, no,' said the man. ' I am afraid of dying of hunger, 
but not of you.' 

"Whilst he was speaking, hair began to appear at the back 
of the woman's neck, her nails assumed the appearance of claws, 
and her features altered. She set down the child. 

" The man, alarmed at the change, climbed a tree close by, 
while the woman glared at him fearfully ; and, going to one 
side, she threw off her skin petticoat, when a perfect lion rushed 
out into the plain. It bounded and crept among the bushes 
towards the wild horses ; and, springing on one of them, it fell, 
and the lion lapped its blood. The lion then came back to 
where the child was crying, and the man called from the tree, 
' Enough ! enough ! Don't hurt me. Put off your lion's shape. 
I'll never ask to see this again.' 

" The lion looked at him and growled. ' I'll remain here till 
I die,' exclaimed the man, 'if you don't become a woman again.' 
The mane and tail began to disappear, the lion went towards 
the bush, where the skin petticoat lay : it was slipped on, and 
the woman, in her proper shape, took up the child. The man 
descended, partook of the horse's flesh, but never again asked 
the woman to catch game for him." 

On the death of a person, some of his cattle (the richer the 
deceased, the more numerous the animals) are killed, and a ban- 
quet is given to his relations and friends. On these occasions 
the poor beasts are suffocated. Ordinarily, and when intended 
for food alone, animals are dispatched by some sharp-cutting 
instrument. The flesh, never eaten raw, and not often when 
roasted, is usually served up when boiled. 

The ideas of a Namaqua as to the formation and rotary mo- 
tion of the heavenly bodies, if not very profound, are unques- 
tionably very original. " The sun, by some of the people of this 
benighted land," says an enterprising traveler, "is considered 
to be a mass of fat, which descends nightly to the sea, where it 
is laid hold of by the chief of a white man's ship, who cuts away 
a portion of tallow, and, giving the rest a kick, it bounds away, 
sinks under the wave, goes round below, and then comes up 
again in the east." 

When a man feels a desire to enter the matrimonial state, he 
goes to the father of the woman on whom he has settled his 
affection, and demands her in marriage. If the parent be favor- 
able to the match, the affair may be considered as settled. An 
ox or a cow is then killed outside the door of the bride's home, 
and the ceremony is over. 
17 



'258 NAM AQUAS LONG-LIVED. 

Polygamy is practiced without limitation. If a man become 
tired of his wife, he unceremoniously returns her to the parental 
roof, and however much she (or the parents) may object to so 
summary a proceeding, there is no remedy. 

Widows are left to shift for themselves. 

They neither cradle nor circumcise their children, which they 
are said to name in the following singular manner : No man nor 
woman has more than one name, which is retained even after 
marriage. If a daughter be born, she assumes the name of her 
father, whilst a boy would be called after his motheivwith very 
little alteration. I never could understand the reason of this. 

Within the memory of the present generation, a barbarous 
practice prevailed, of leaving old and disabled people to perish 
far away from the dwellings of men. A slight fence was raised 
round the " living-dead," and a small supply of water was placed 
at his side, when he was abandoned to his fate. Mr. Moffat, 
during his wanderings in Namaqua-land, saw one of these 
wretches (a woman) ; and on inquiring the cause of her being 
thus deserted, she replied : " I am old, you see, and no longer 
able to serve them (referring to her grown-up children). When 
they kill game, I am too feeble to help in carrying home the 
flesh ; I am incapable of gathering wood to make lire ; and I 
cannot carry their children on my back, as I used to do." 

The Namaquas may be said to be long-lived, for individuals 
have been known to reach the advanced age of ninety, and even 
one hundred years. This is the more remarkable, when the 
very wretched life they lead is taken into consideration. 

The Namaquas have a singular custom, both amongst them- 
selves and with regard to strangers, which consists in the adop- 
tion of a " father" and a " mother." This practice is so widely 
observed, that few who come in contact with the several tribes 
are able to avoid it. Almost every European trader, indeed, 
possesses in each village, which he is in the habit of frequenting, 
either a so-called "father" or " mother." But the custom is a 
most inconvenient one — to the traveler, at least — for he may be 
pretty sure that, as soon as this near degree of consanguinity is 
established between himself and a Namaqua, he will be asked 
for a horse or an ox, or it may be for the very coat upon his 
back, which, as in duty bound, he is expected to hand over to 
" papa" or " mamma," as the case may be. The poor son, it is 
true, has also the privilege of demanding anything that may 
captivate his fancy. But since a native is usually more forward 
and importunate than a European, the bargain, as a rule, is gen- 
erally a losing one to the latter. 



ORNAMENTS ARMS HABITS. 259 

When two Namaquas are talking together, and one is relating 
a story, the listener repeats the last words of the speaker, even 
if he should know as much of the matter as his informant. For 
instance : if a man begin his recital by saying — " As I walked 
along the river, a very large rhinoceros rushed suddenly upon 
me." " Rushed suddenly upon me," echoes the auditor. " He 
was very fat." " Very fat," the other ejaculates, and so forth. 

The Namaquas are fond of ornamenting their persons profuse- 
ly with brass, iron, and copper, but more especially with small 
beads of various colors. A kind of black, dull bead, manufac- 
tured by themselves, is particularly esteemed. A quantity of 
resin is procured, which they melt and mix with powdered 
charcoal, and, during the process of cooling, it is diligently 
kneaded, until, being converted to the consistency of gum, it is 
drawn out into long, narrow bars. Again it is gently heated 
over a slow fire, when small bits are detached and worked be- 
tween the fingers till they assume the desired shape. Their 
patterns of bead-work are by no means devoid of taste. 

These people tattoo themselves, and also anoint and be- 
sprinkle their bodies with a profusion of grease and powders. 
The latter are of several kinds, and are chiefly obtained from the 
leaves and plants of the croton and diosma families. These pow- 
ders are called " buku" by the Namaquas, and are much esteem- 
ed, more especially the kind procured south of the Orange river, 
which has a very agreeable and aromatic scent. 

The sole arms of the Namaquas of the present day are guns. 
Their original weapons, which consisted of the bow and arrow, 
the assegai, and an immense shield (made out of an entire, sin- 
gle-folded ox-hide), are now rarely seen. 

The Namaquas are an excessively idle race. They may be 
seen basking in the sun for days together, in listless inactivity, 
frequently almost perishing from thirst or hunger, when, with 
very little exertion, they may have it in their power to satisfy 
the cravings of nature. If urged to work, they have been heard 
to say : " Why should we resemble the worms of the ground ?" 
A few may occasionally be seen employing themselves in mak- 
ing neat little camp-stools, and in repairing guns, for which 
they have a certain aptitude. Jonker Afrikaner — be it said to 
his honor — is by far the most industrious Hottentot that I have 
yet seen. 

They are excessively fond of diversions, more especially 
music and dancing. They do not, however, distinguish them- 
selves by grace in their movements, nor do they even possess 
that dexterity and flexibility of limb that the Ovambo ladies — 



260 DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

at the expense of our peace of mind — exhibited at King Nan- 
goro's court ball. 

They understand and practice the art of distilling spirits. 
When a certain kind of berry, of a sweet and agreeable taste, is 
ripe, large quantities are collected and put into a skin-bag to 
ferment. On being sufficiently advanced, they are deposited in 
a large pot and boiled, and the steam drawn off into another 
vessel joined to it by an old gun-barrel. The liquor is then 
allowed to settle for a few days, and becomes so strong and 
intoxicating that a small glass or two is sufficient to upset any 
man's reason not previously accustomed to it. I have seen the 
natives become perfectly maddened by its effect. 

They also make a kind of mead (a favorite drink with 
the ancient Northmen) which is a pleasant and refreshing 
beverage, and, unless partaken of to excess, is comparatively 
harmless. 

The domestic animals of the country, are the cow, the sheep, 
the goat, and the dog. The sheep is highly prized by them, so 
much so that at one time (before the introduction of tobacco) 
it was more thought of than anything else — even than women ! 
The original breed of Namaqua cattle is nearly extinct. The 
southern tribes still possess it, though more or less mixed with 
that of the colony and Damara-land. In shape and size the 
Nam aqua cattle approach nearer the European breed than to 
that indigenous to the countries north of them. They are of 
moderate size, very compact, and have short, but stout horns 
(usually curved inwards), with rather large hoofs. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

LEAVE THE ORANGE RIVER ARRIVAL AT KOMAGGAS GARDENING AND 

AGRICULTURE THE AUTHOR STARTS ALONE FOR THE CAPE COLONY 

HORSES ENMITY OF THE BOERS TO " BRITISHERS" DUTCH SALUTA- 
TION THE AUTHOR MUST HAVE BEEN AT TIMBUCTOO, WHETHER OR 

NO HE ARRIVES AT CAPE-TOWN CUTS A SORRY FIGURE IS RUN 

AWAY WITH A FEAST OF ORANGES — GHOST STORIES CATTLE AUC- 
TION HANS AND JOHN ALLEN PROCEED TO AUSTRALIA PREPARATIONS 

FOR JOURNEY TO THE NGAMI DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE. 

On the 25th of August, we left the inhospitable banks of the 
Orange river. After rather more than a week's slow travel, 
through dreary and uninteresting tracts of land covered by a 
deep, yielding, sandy-soil, bearing a dwarfish vegetation, we 
arrived, at Komaggas, also a Rhenish missionary station. The 
Rev. Mr. Weich now officiated, here. 1 The congregation con- 
sists of a promiscuous collection of Hottentots, and the offspring 
of other dark-colored natives. 

Komaggas is picturesquely situated, and well supplied with 
water. Gardening is brought almost to perfection ; and, not- 
withstanding the dryness of the atmosphere, corn is cultivated 
with success in the neighborhood. Indeed, the best wheat in 
the west part of the colony, I am informed, is grown here. 
But its cultivation is attended with much labor, since it can 



1 This institution was founded by the Rev. Mr. Schmelen. In 1830, during 
the administration of Sir Lowry Cole, it received, by charter, an extensive grant 
of territory from the British government at the Cape. On that memorable occa- 
sion, the zealous missionary presented to the governor a translation of the four 
Gospels in the Namaqua tongue. 



262 THE CAPE-COLONY HORSE . 

only be raised on the summit of hills (which retain moisture 
longer than the lowlands), rising not unfrequently several 
thousand feet above the sea. 

Except at the station, and one or two other spots, the exten- 
sive grounds are scantily watered, and ill-adapted for grazing. 
During our visit, numbers of cattle were dying from starvation. 
The region is, moreover, in some seasons infected by diseases 
fatal to beasts of pasture, and these maladies, of late years, 
have been of so destructive a character as nearly to exterminate 
the cattle. Indeed, many of the Bastards and Hottentots, who 
chiefly inhabit these parts, and who were formerly living in 
great abundance, are reduced to beggary from this cause. 

I now determined to leave Hans, and proceed in advance to 
Cape-Town, with a view of making arrangements about the 
sale of the cattle, and the intended expedition to the Ngami. 
As we were now in a locality where horses might be obtained, 
I procured three or four of these animals without delay, partly 
for cash and partly for cattle. The rate of exchange was from 
five to ten oxen, according to the qualities of the horse ; or, 
if money, 100 rixd. (,£7 10). A first-rate hack might be pur- 
chased for <£10, though, of course, high-bred horses were more 
expensive. 

The Cape-Colony horse is a wonderful beast. He is sup- 
posed to be of Spanish descent, but, of late years, has been 
much crossed by various breeds. Without any pretension to 
beauty, he is, perhaps, unrivaled in docility, hardiness, and 
endurance. In eight days (one of which was devoted to rest) I 
rode, accompanied by a Hottentot servant, from near Komag- 
gas to Cape-Town — a distance of upwards of four hundred 
miles by road — thus averaging fifty miles per day. On an after 
occasion, I remember to have performed upwards of ninety 
miles at a very great pace, only once or twice removing the 
saddle for a few minutes. And be it borne in mind that the 
animals were young, indifferently broken in, unshod, and had 
never been stall-fed. 

A most striking instance of the extraordinary endurance of 
Colony horses occurred a few years ago, in Great Namaqua-land. 
The animal in question belonged to a son of the Hottentot chief, 
Zwarfcbooi, who one day, whilst hunting in an open tract of 
country, fell in with a troop of eleven giraffes, to which he im- 
mediately gave chase, and the whole of which he rode down and 
shot in succession. But the immense exertion was too much 
for the gallant creature, whose life was thus sacrificed. 

This remarkable horse was well known throughout Great 



DUTCH WELCOME. S6S 

Namaqua-land, and is said to have been quite mad with excite- 
ment when he observed a wild animal. He only ceased to pur- 
sue when the game was either killed, or no longer in sight. 

The Colony horses, with a little training, answer admirably 
for either hunting or shooting. They may be taught to remain 
stationary for hours together by merely turning the bridle over 
their heads, resting the extremities of the reins on the ground. 
They seldom trot ; the usual pace is a canter, and occasionally 
an amble. 

So much has already been said and written on the Cape-Colo- 
ny, its sturdy boers, its soil, its production, and soforth, that 
it would be superfluous to add anything further. Suffice it 
to mention a few of the most remarkable incidents of my 
journey. 

Soon after leaving Komaggas, my horse — a young, half- 
trained stallion which had only been ridden thrice — shied, and, 
rearing on his hind legs, came to the ground on his back with 
sudden violence. Providentially, the soil was soft and yielding, 
and although I sustained his whole weight for a few seconds, I 
escaped with no worse consequence than a tight squeezing. 

After leaving Komaggas, the homesteads of the boer be- 
came daily more numerous. Riding up, one morning, to a house, 
with a view of procuring some bread and flour, I was greeted 
with the following civil address — " Daar komt weder die ver- 
doomde Engelsman," — that is, " There comes again the cursed 
Englishman." Though I had heard much of the aversion these 
men entertain for all that is British, and their coarse language in 
general, I certainly had not expected that they would have carried 
their animosity so far. Walking straight up to the, individual 
that had thus accosted me, I said in as good Dutch as I could 
muster — " My good friend, in my country, when a stranger does 
us the honor to pay us a visit, before even asking his errand or 
his name, much less abusing him, we invite him to our table; 
and, when he has quenched his thirst and satisfied his hunger, 
w T e may probably inquire whence he comes or where he goes." 
And with this I leapt into the saddle. The fellow clearly felt 
the rebuke ; for, on seeing me turn my horse's head away, he 
endeavored to persuade me to stop. But his rude salutation 
had quite spoilt my appetite. 

As a rule, however, though frequently coarse and abrupt in 
their language and conversation, they are undeniably hospitable ; 
and when a person can converse with them in their own lan- 
guage, and accommodate himself to their manners and peculi- 
arities, they are excellent fellows, as I have often since experi- 



264 CONSEQUENCE OF SPEAKING DUTCH. 

enced. To several of their customs, nevertheless, the stranger 
will find some difficulty in reconciling himself. 

In these localities, on meeting a wayfaring man, the Dutch 
boer invariably thus accosts him : — " Good-day ! Where do you 
come from? Where are you going? Are you married ? How 
many children have you ?" — and so forth. If you should be so 
unfortunate as not to have entered into the marriage state, he 
is astonished beyond measure, and looks upon you with some- 
thing like contempt. 

Like most people who are novices in a foreign language, I 
committed, at first, sad mistakes, and many a joke and laugh 
originated at my expense. Once, indeed, my awkwardness cost 
me the loss of a supper, of which I stood greatly in need, hav- 
ing ridden some fifty miles in the course of the day, without 
tasting food of any description. In the Dutch language, 
" danken" signifies a direct refusal ; but, not being aware of 
this, I interpreted it in the very reverse sense, as meaning, " If 
you please." As often, therefore, as I repeated the ominous 
word, so often had I the mortification of seeing the smoking 
dishes pass by me ! 

Refreshing myself, one afternoon, at a comfortable farm- 
house, the worthy host inquired whence, and how far I had 
journeyed. Having made a rough calculation in my own mind, 
I told him the approximate distance. No sooner had I done so, 
than he clasped his hands together, and turning to his wife, ex- 
claimed, in the utmost amazement — " Gracious heavens ! the 
man has been in Timbuctoo !" " No, my good friend, not quite 
so far," I remarked. But he became too much absorbed in the 
novel idea, and without attending to me, he went on to say — 
" Yes, indeed, the man has been at Timbuctoo." I again took 
the liberty to remonstrate, when his brother, who was also 
present, ejaculated — " Yes, brother, you are right. Timbuc- 
too ! — ah! eh? — yes! Let me see, Timbuctoo. Ah, I remem- 
ber to have read that it is situated at the end of Africa, in a 
place where you can see nothing but sand." Once more I at- 
tempted to explain, but to no purpose. Right or wrong, I must 
have been at Timbuctoo. I secretly wished I had been there. 

Finding they apparently knew more about my travels than I 
did, I left them to themselves to discuss the merit of the journey ; 
and, diving into the eatables which had been liberally spread 
before me, I did ample justice to their hospitality. 

On the 22nd of September I reached Cape-Town, where my 
appearance afforded no little delight and amusement to the mob, 
who shouted merrily after me, "Look at the jockey! ha! ha! 



A FEAST OF ORANGES. 265 

ha !" My dress was certainly highly picturesque. An old 
English hunting-cap — a present from a friend — adorned my head. 
The striped jacket that I wore, now well bleached with sun 
and rain, had shrunk to such a degree as to reach a few inches 
down my back ; and as for sleeves, they just covered the elbows, 
the rest having been left on the " Wacht-een-bigte" bushes. 
My nether garments, consisting of a pair of moleskin trowsers, 
were on a par with my jacket, for they hardly reached to the 
calf of my leg; and to complete the "turn out" my "veld" 
shoes were of untanned leather, and so sunburnt as to resemble 
bricks. And as Cape-Town at that time could boast of no 
" Moses and Son," or " Silver and Co.," it was only by degrees, 
and exploring the different shops, that I was able to remodel 
my dress. 

I lost no time in advertising our cattle ; and, having secured 
a good auctioneer, and made some other arrangements, I again 
set off to join my party. 

Just as I left Cape-Town, my horse, which was excessively 
shy, took fright, and started off at a rate which would have 
" taken the shine" out of even John Gilpin's runaway steed. 
In the attempt to stop him, the bit (a very substantial one), 
broke, and in an instant I was at the animal's mercy. Finding 
myself in an awkward predicament, and being desirous to short- 
en the race as much as possible, I unhesitatingly gave him both 
spur and whip, and, as a consequence, ditches, walls, and fences, 
were leapt and passed at a fearful rate, to the great danger of 
myself and those I encountered. I do not profess to be skilled 
in horsemanship, my experience as an equestrian being very 
small. It was, therefore, as much as I could do to keep my 
seat. Nevertheless, I had the good fortune to escape unhurt ; 
for, after a while, my steed became exhausted, and pulled up of 
his own accord. 

I found Hans in good health. The Dutch boers had once or 
twice behaved rudely ; but the Dane's herculean appearance and 
independent manner quickly cooled their ire, and he was allow- 
ed to pass unmolested. He told his adventures with graphic 
effect and racy humor. 

Oranges, which are very abundant in these parts, were be- 
ginning to ripen. One day, some of our Damaras expressed a 
wish to taste the enticing fruit ; and being supplied with a shil- 
ling, they started off. In a short time they brought back no 
less than two hundred oranges. They had scarcely finished a 
dozen or two, however, before the effect became irresistible. 
The acidity of the fruit at this time of the year was so great 



266 GHOST STORIES. 

that it acted with the force of gun-cotton ; and, after having a 
" good blow-out," they were so disordered as to be unable to 
taste food for several successive days. Indeed, they were effect- 
ually cured of their orange mania. 

At the bivouac-fire I was often entertained with ghost-stories. 
John, our wagon -driver, who seemed fully to believe in appari- 
tions, was the chief narrator. 

" Grhosts," said he, " abound in and about the neighborhood 
of the Cape. At times they appear in the shape of dogs ; at 
others in that of human beings. Once, late at night, I was 
coming from Simon's Bay, when the oxen all of a sudden stop- 
ped short, and would have darted right into the bush had I not 
been quick to turn them. Just then, nothing could be seen ; 
but presently, a large, white dog, with a chain round the neck, 
appeared. He passed us slowly without injuring us in any 
way, and shaped his course over a cross road, when we contin- 
ued our journey. At another time I met the " spook" (ghost), 
in the form of a very tall black man, accompanied by a large dog 
of the same color. 

" Frequently, when returning late at night to my master's 
place, while yet at a distance, I have seen the whole yard and 
dwelling-house splendidly illuminated, but, on coming to the 
spot, all was gone. 

" As a protection to the garden, my master had erected a hut, 
where men slept at night. After a while, however, the place 
became so haunted that the watchmen fled, and slept anywhere 
they could in the bush. The " spooks" were seen continually 
to promenade up and down the walks arm-in-arm, taking an 
occasional peep into the house. 

" In dark nights, a ghost would sometimes appear at the head 
of the team, and, laying hold of the thong attached to the lead- 
ing ox, would conduct the cattle out of their proper course — I 
being totally unconscious of the proceedings at the time. 

" Again ; I would hear wagons and carriages coming along 
the road at a brisk pace, and, whilst making way for them to 
pass, I found, to my astonishment, that the vehicles were already 
far a-head of us." 

On the 18th of October, and when within a day's ride of 
Cape-Town, we disposed of our cattle by public auction. 

Owing to the great distance we had brought them, and the 
scarcity of pasturage during the latter part of the journey, our 
cattle had become very lean ; and although they were in them- 
selves an exceedingly fine lot, their want of condition neither 
suited the butcher nor the grazier. In their emaciated state, 



CATTLE SOLD BY PUBLIC AUCTION 



>67 



indeed, it would require fully a year before they would become 
acclimatized and re-fattened, in which interval, and before get- 
ting accustomed to their new pasturage, many would probably 
die. They scarcely averaged £2 per head. The cows sold al- 
most the best — not on account of the milk they yielded, for that 
was little or nothing, but simply because, strange to say, they 
were exempted from a peculiar disease (strangury), which kills 
the oxen in these parts. The boers are in consequence obliged 
to make use of cows for agricultural purposes. 

It is customary on these occasions to give a banquet to the 
purchasers, who chiefly consist of Dutch farmers; and if the 
cattle are known to be fit for slaughter, the butchers of the me- 
tropolis also come in for a share. A large quantity of wine is 
supposed to be necessary to facilitate the sale. Fortunately, 
this kind of liquor is very cheap ; and though a person may 
have to entertain from fifty to one hundred people for two days 
together, the expense of such festivities rarely exceed seven or 
eight pounds sterling. 

Our hands being now free, the first object to which we turn- 
ed our attention, was to secure a vessel to carry us back to 
Walfisch Bay. There happened just then to be none at the 
Cape ; but we were promised one within a certain period. In 
the mean time, we occupied ourselves in making the needful 
purchases, etc. 




oacre's pulpit. 



268 DEPARTURE OF HANS AND JOHN ALLEN. 

I also made excursions into the neighborhood. Amongst 
other interesting places, I visited, in company with Mr. Bain, 
(the distinguished South African geologist,) the famous pass, 
called, after my kind host, Bain's Kloof, through which the road 
leads across the Drakenstein mountains from the village of Wel- 
lington to the district of Worcestershire. The vignette on the 
preceding page is a view of a certain part of the pass designated 
Dacre's pulpit, and has been selected from the portfolio of an 
accomplished friend in Cape-Town. 

We had nearly finished our arrangements when the news ar- 
rived at the Cape of the extraordinary successes met with at the 
Australian gold-diggings, and the same mania, though not quite 
to the same extent, which had turned the people's heads all 
over the world, took possession of the inhabitants of this 
colony. Every available vessel was bought up or chartered for 
the " diggings." I began seriously to apprehend that this 
would deprive us of the craft we had engaged. Indeed, the 
owner did actually sell her, but, fortunately, placed another at 
our disposal, the alteration, however, causing us very great 
delay. 

Though the loss, at this period, of the assistance of Hans 
would have been grievous and irreparable, I thought it my duty 
to explain to him the respective advantages of remaining with me 
and going to Australia. By adhering to the trading, he would 
be pretty sure to secure a fair income annually, whilst by adopt- 
ing the other plan, he might have the chance of realizing a for- 
tune in the course of a year or two. I urged that if he felt at 
all inclined to try his luck at the " diggings," he should not 
hesitate ; for, in that case, I would take charge of his goods 
and dispose of them as if they were my own. Hans evidently 
appreciated my well-meant intentions, but generously refused 
to do anything that was not in strict accordance with my own 
wishes. However, I could not take advantage of such an offer 
in his position, but told him to think the matter well over 
by himself and to be entirely guided by his own inclination. 

After much hesitation, Hans finally came to the determination 
to migrate to Australia; and John Allen having also expressed a 
wish to accompany him, I drew up an agreement between them 
of such a nature that they might dissolve partnership if they 
wished, without detriment to either. With regard to myself 
and Hans, we agreed to share each other's fortunes (though far 
apart) bad or good. 

Matters having been thus far settled, I immediately arranged 
about the passage of the two adventurers ; provided them with 



REFLECTIONS. 269 

every article necessary for such an expedition, and nearly one 
hundred pounds sterling in ready money. This change in our 
original plans proved of great inconvenience to me, inasmuch as 
we had already sunk every available shilling of our small capi- 
tal in the intended expedition to Walfisch Bay. However, it 
was all successfully arranged, and in the early part of January, 
1S53, they took their departure. 

Thus once more I was alone. I could not help reflecting on 
the difficulties of my position. Two of the best men that, per- 
haps, ever set foot on African soil, with whom I had shared 
hardships and privations of no trifling character, had left me to 
seek their fortunes in remote climes. On me alone, then, de- 
volved the task of watching over and improving the united in- 
terest of myself and Hans. Another duty, not less urgent, 
claimed my attention — namely, that of solving the grand geo- 
graphical problem — the discovery of a route from the west coast 
to the Lake Ngami. 

On mentioning my trying position to some Cape friends, they 
coolly advised me to dispose of my goods and return to Europe. 
I turned in disgust from the proposal, which only served to urge 
me to renewed exertions. My spirits rose in proportion to the 
difficulties. 

Immediately on the departure of Hans and John Allen, I 
hastened to attend to my own affairs. I was tolerably well 
supplied with everything but servants, and instruments for tak- 
ing astronomical observations. After much search and many 
bargains, I succeeded in getting together a very fair set of the 
latter, consisting of a large, good- working sextant, a box-sextant 
for taking angular bearings, two artificial horizons, (one of 
colored plate glass mounted in brass, with leveling screws, and 
another for mercury,) an excellent azimuth-compass, one or two 
good pocket-compasses, three boiling-point thermometers for 
ascertaining heights of places above the level of the sea, two 
telescopes, one for common field-work, and the other large 
enough for occultations, a chronometer watch, and two ordinary 
watches. Mr. Maclear, the Royal Astronomer at the Cape, 
kindly assisted me in selecting most of the above instruments. 
He, moreover, took a great deal of pains in adjusting them, and 
showed me their use, though, I fear, I almost wore out his pa- 
tience, for I was excessively stupid in this respect. But I trust 
the result has proved that his labor was not altogether thrown 
away. 

Shortly after our arrival at the Cape, I had been fortunate 
enough in securing the services of an old acquaintance, Timbo, 



270 THE BIRKENHEAD. 

who had safely returned from St. Helena, where he, left Mr. 
Galton. He proved invaluable to me. To his charge my dogs 
and native servants were confided, and they throve wonderfully 
under his management. 

I had intended to send two or three Damaras with Hans to 
Australia ; but one day, previous to his departure, they came to 
me in great tribulation, and said that they did not want to go 
any further, but wished to return with me to their own land. 
If such was really their intention, it became my duty to gratify 
them ; but I could not help feeling a little vexed, for since no 
one but Timbo could speak their language, I strongly suspected 
that he had influenced their decision. With a view of ascer- 
taining the fact, I called him, and told him my opinion ; but he 
stoutly denied the charge, adding — " Suppose, master, me was 
to take a horse from the stable in the Kaap to Wynberg, or to 
any other strange place, and then leave him to himself, surely 
he would return whence he came ; and so it was with the na- 
tives." I was struck with the sagacity of the remark, and said 
no more about the matter. 

Timbo had procured a passage from St. Helena in the Birken- 
head man of war, and on the voyage he got acquainted with an 
English lad, George Bonfield, aged sixteen. A mutual attach- 
ment sprung up between the shrewd Ethiopian and the youth- 
ful Saxon ; and, in a short time, the former was the means of 
indirectly saving the life of the latter. On the arrival of the 
vessel at the Cape, the boy requested permission to land, in or- 
der to enjoy the society of his swarthy friend. This was grant- 
ed, on condition that he should rejoin the vessel at Simon's Bay. 

Whilst doubling the southern extremity of Africa, the unfor- 
tunate Birkenhead struck, and, as is well known, was totally 
lost, with almost all hands on board. 

Timbo took every care of the boy, whose life had thus been 
saved. He put him to school, and afterwards secured him a 
berth with a tradesman in Cape-Town. Finding that the youth 
was anxious to see something more of the world, and to add to 
his store of knowledge, I took him into my employ. He ac- 
companied me to the Great Lake, and when, in the course of 
the journey? I became ill, and crippled by wounds inflicted by 
wild animals, his presence and tender care greatly relieved and 
soothed my sufferings. 

On Timbo's recommendation, and from possessing a smatter- 
ing of Portuguese, I engaged a Mozambique liberated slave, of 
the name of Louis ; but he turned out the filthiest, laziest, most 
6ensual, and most useless man I ever came across. Just as I 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE 



271 



was about to engage him, he said— ; ' Of course, master give me 
my washing and ironing." " My good fellow," I replied, " has 
Timbo not explained to you the sort of country we are going 
to ? You must thank your stars if you get water enough to 
wash your face, much less your clothes. And, if you happen to 
get a sufficiency for the latter purpose, you will certainly have 
to cleanse your own garments. In the wilderness, according to 
an old saying, ' every man is his own washerwoman.' " 

A young Hottentot, whom I engaged as wagon-driver for the 
journey, ran into debt, and shuffled his cards so cleverly, that I 
did not become aware of the circumstance until the day fixed for 
our departure, when there was of course no time to look for 
another driver, and I had no alternative left but to pay his lia- 
bilities. 

The last of my servants, also a Hottentot and a wagon-driver, 
known as " old Piet," was, however, a most excellent and well- 
behaved man. He had been, it is true, in the habit of getting 
drunk, but, once out of the Cape, he proved himself a hard- 
working, honest, and faithful fellow, and has never since left my 
service. 




NEGRO BOY.' 



1 The above wood-cut is a portrait of a negro youth, bom and bred at the Cape. 
He has been shopping, and is returning home with the various articles entrusted 
to his charge. 



272 DEPARTURE FROM CAPE-TOWN. 

Finding that a Mr. Reid, whose acquaintance I had made in 
Great Namaqua-land, and who had been very kind and atten- 
tive to me when I was laid up by fever, was about to under- 
take a trading excursion to Walfisch Bay, I gladly availed my- 
self of the opportunity thus afforded, of dividing between us the 
expenses of a vessel ; a considerable sum was accordingly saved 
to me. 

At last, after many difficulties and delays, we were ready ; 
and on the 16th of January, having embarked in the schooner 
Flying Fish, we unfurled our sails and bade farewell to Cape- 
Town, where, during a second stay, I had enjoyed much kind- 
ness and hospitality. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY ATROCITIES OF THE NAMAQUAS MR. HAHN 

HIS PHILANTHROPY AUTHOR DEPARTS FOR RICHTERFELDT SHOOTS A 

LION LIONS UNUSUALLY NUMEROUS PIET's PERFORMANCES WITH LIONS 

THE LION A CHURCH-GOER BARMEN EIKHAMS KAMAPYU'S MAD 

DOINGS AND CONSEQUENCES THEREOF KAMAPYU IS WOUNDED BY OTHER 

SHAFTS THAN CUPID'S AUTHOR VISITS CORNELIUS, WHERE HE MEETS 

AMRAL AND A PARTY OF GRIQUA ELEPHANT HUNTERS REACHES REHO- 

BOTH TANS MOUNTAIN COPPER ORE JONATHAN AFRIKA A LION 

SUPS ON A GOAT A LION BESIEGES THE CATTLE. 

We had an excellent run to Walfisch Bay, and reached it on 
the 28rd of the month in which we left the Cape. In the after- 
n oon, I landed the horses, but very nearly lost the best. The halter 
having slipped off his head, he was making straight for the sea, 
and was well nigh exhausted before we could again secure him. 
The same night, I rode over to ScheppmansdorfF; but the dark- 
ness was so profound that I was unable to see the track or hold 
any course. It was by the merest accident that I stumbled 
upon the house, to the great surprise of my old friends, the Bam 
family, whom I found well, but not so comfortably lodged as 
when I saw them last — the Kuisip having swept away their 
dwelling-house and out-buildings. 

From the worthy missionary I learnt much both to please 
and grieve me. The Namaquas had, as usual, been pillaging the 
Damaras, and were dealing death and desolation around them. 
It was no longer considered safe even for white men to remain. 
Indeed, the Namaquas had already attacked Richterfeldt. Early 
one morning a horde of these marauders suddenly appeared, 
18 



274 ATROCITIES OF THE NAMAQUAS. 

and carried off all the cattle belonging to the people of the 
station. Not satisfied with this, they fired several shots into 
the dwelling-house, though, fortunately, without effect. Mrs. 
Rath and children were laid up by " eye-sickness," and Mr. 
Schoneberg, who had arrived the day previously, and who was 
in a very weak state from the effects of a recent severe illness, 
was almost frightened out of his senses by the sudden and un- 
expected onset. 

On Mr. Rath walking up to the barbarians to remonstrate 
with them on their brutal conduct, they seized and flogged him 
severely. A Damara, who was at his side, they shot dead. In 
consequence of this attack, Messrs. Rath and Schoneberg were 
daily expected to leave their stations, and to remove to Mr. 
Barn's place. 

On the other hand, I heard that a party of Bechuanas had 
been visiting Jonker Afrikaner, and it was supposed they had 
crossed the Kalahari desert. This was gratifying intelli- 
gence ; because, if these natives had been able to pass through 
such dreaded regions, I might also humbly hope to do the 
same. 

On my return to the Bay, I found almost all my goods, and 
those of my friend, Mr. Reid, safely landed ; and, with the as- 
sistance of Mr. Barn's oxen, everything was quickly transferred 
to the station. This was scarcely effected, when the Rev. 
Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Hahn arrived from the Cape. The 
latter had been on his road to Europe to pay a visit to his fami- 
ly, and make some arrangements respecting the education of 
his children. But his heart bled for the wretched condi- 
tion of this benighted land ; and, at immense sacrifice, he 
returned with the view of endeavoring once more to bring 
about a reconciliation between the Namaquas and the Dama- 
ras. 

Next to the love and worship which we owe to our Creator, 
must be ranked the love of our own species. This Divine doc- 
trine recalls those beautiful lines by Leigh Hunt: — 

" Abou Ben Adhem (may his tribe increase !) 
Awoke one night from a deep dream of peace, 
And saw, within the moonlight in his room, 
Making it rich, and like a lily in bloom, 
An angel writing in a book of gold : — 
Exceeding peace bad made Ben Adhem bold, 
And to the presence in the room he said, 
' What writest thou ?' — the vision raised its head, 
And, with a look made of all sweet accord, 
Answered, ' The names of those who love the Lord.' 



MR. hahn's philanthropy. 275 

' And is mine one?' said Abou. ' Nay, not so,' 
Replied the angel. Abou spoke more low, 
But cbeerly still ; and said, ' I pray thee, then, 
Write me as one that loves his fellow-men.' 

The angel wrote, and vanished. The next night 
It came again with a great wakening light, 
And show'd the names whom love of God had bless'd, 
And lo ! Ben Adhem's name led all the rest." 

All Mr. Halm's exertions and painstakings, however, were 
in vain. Jonker was inexorable. He flatly told him there was 
no occasion for missionaries, since they themselves were quite 
capable of managing the affairs of the country. This proved 
the death-blow to the Damara mission ; for though Messrs. 
Schoneberg and Rath continued their labors for some time after- 
wards, they were finally compelled to desist. 

On leaving Great Namaqua-land the preceding year, I placed 
two teams of wagon-oxen under the charge of my friend, Wil- 
liam Zwartbooi, to be kept ready for emergencies. I now lost 
no time in sending people to fetch them down ; but the dis- 
tance was great, and I could not expect them for several weeks 
to come. Through my interference, Mr. Bam kindly furnished 
Mr. Reid with a sufficiency of trained oxen for his own convey- 
ance, at a very moderate cost, which enabled him to start for the 
interior with scarcely any delay. 

Whilst waiting for my own cattle, I busied myself with 
arranging my baggage, sketching plans for the future, eating 
naras, and now and then mounting my steed to chase the 
ostrich. 

On the 9th of February, Mr. Rath ' arrived, and, seeing my 
dilemma, kindly proposed to place some of his oxen at my dis- 
posal as far as Barmen. I gratefully accepted the disinterested 
offer, and having obtained a few more oxen from the Namaqua 
chief, Jacob, at Scheppmansdorf, I prepared to commence my 
journey with one of the wagons, leaving the other to follow as 
soon as my cattle arrived. Rehoboth having been appointed as 
the place of rendezvous, I started. 

My course, as on former occasions, lay by Tineas, Onanis, and 
Tjobis — places well known to the reader. I saw a good deal of 
game, but was too much pressed for time to stop and shoot. 
Until we reached Richterfeldt, little or nothing of interest 
occurred. William and Bonfield, in rambling about the hills 
one day, stumbled upon a lion, and it being the first time they 
had ever seen the dreaded beast in his native state, they became 
almost petrified with fear. 



276 piet's performance with lions. 

I also had an opportunity of shooting one of these animals 
Whilst one day pursuing some gemsboks, a lion unexpectedly 
sprang out of a bush within forty or fifty paces of me. The 
brute's sudden appearance somewhat startled me, but I had so 
often been baulked in my attempts to get a shot at lions that I 
only hesitated for a moment. Accordingly, the lion having 
turned round to look at me, I took a deliberate aim at his fore- 
head and fired ; and, as good luck would have it, with deadly 
effect. Indeed, so accurate was my aim that it almost split 
his skull in two, and, as a matter of course, killed him on the 
spot. 

My prize proved a full-grown male ; but his hide was so 
much worn and torn, that I did not deem it worth the trouble 
of preservation. 

Lions had been unusually numerous and daring during the 
year. Mr. Rath's wagon-driver, Piet, a. mighty Nimrod, and his 
two foster-sons, had killed upwards of twenty in the course of 
a few months. And many and wonderful were their escapes 
from these animals. 

One night, the old man was awakened by a peculiar noise 
outside his door, which was constructed so as to shut in two 
parts. The lower division was closed, but the upper was left 
open on account of the oppressive state of the atmosphere. 
Quietly taking up his gun, Piet stole softly to the door, expect- 
ing to meet with a hyaena, as he knew that one of these beasts 
was in the habit of harassing the goat-kids, which, for better 
security, he had kraaled against the wall of the house. His 
amazement, however, was great, when, instead of a hyaena, a 
lion stood before him. Without losing his presence of mind, he 
poked the muzzle of the piece against the animal's head and 
blew out his brains. 

Again : riding along one morning in a very weak state, hav- 
ing just recovered from a severe fever, a lion suddenly rushed at 
him. The ox became frightened, and threw the old man. One 
of his feet was caught in the stirrup ; but, fortunately, the 
" veld" shoe slipped off. " I know," said the veteran hunter, 
" I was thrown, and that I got on my legs again, but in what 
manner is quite a mystery to me to this day. I called, as loud 
as my feeble voice permitted, to my people to bring a gun, the 
lion always getting nearer and nearer, until he stood within 
arm's length. I once or twice tried to pull out my pistol or 
my sword-knife, which, as yoa know, I usually carry about 
with me, but in my anxiety I missed them. My jacket was 
l3'ing just in front of me on the ground, but the brute had one 



A LION GOES TO CHURCH. 277 

of his paws on it. I felt desperate, however, and pulling it 
forcibly away, struck the lion on the head, when lie grinned and 
growled terribly, and I expected every moment he would tear 
me to pieces. At this juncture, my Damara, who fortunately 
had heard my cries of distress, came running up with my gun. 
Taking the piece from the man, I fired at the lion, who had re- 
treated a few paces, where he sat quietly looking at me. I 
don't know whether I hit him, for what with the sudden fright, 
and my weak constitution, I felt very unsteady. Be that as it 
may, it had, at all events, the effect of scaring him away, 
for, at the report of the gun, he instantly betook himself to 
cover." 

On another occasion, when the missionary wagon was on its 
road to WalSsch Bay, a lion sprang unexpectedly into the 
midst of the sleeping party, which was bivouacking at the time 
on the banks of the Kubakop river. One of Piet's sons, who 
was present, picked up his gun from the ground ; but, in order 
to prevent the dew from injuring it, he had wrapped his waist- 
coat round the lock, and, in the hurry, he was unable to disen- 
gage the garment. Finding, however, that the lion was just 
about to lay hold of him, he held out the piece and fired at 
random, but fortunately with deadly effect. 

Once a lion found his way into the church at Richterfeldt ' 
The alarm being given, the Damaras, assegai in hand, rushed to 
the spot, and, seizing him by the tail and ears, dragged him 
bodily out of the sacred edifice. The poor brute was actually 
dying from starvation, and offered but a very feeble resistance. 
I saw his skin. 

At Barmen I was obliged to leave Mr. Rath's cattle ; but by 
the assistance of Mr. Halm's wagon-driver, who, on reasonable 
terms, lent me half-a-dozen first-rate oxen, I was able to prose- 
cute my journey. On arriving at Eikhams, I met my friend 
Reid, who had been very successful in the disposal of his stock- 
in-trade. I saw Jonker ; but, though he was civil and obliging, 
the constant forfeiture of his word had disgusted me, and I felt 
compelled to treat him with great coolness and reserve. 

Before leaving Eikhams, an accident occurred that might have 
ended seriously. A half-cast native lad, whom Eyebrecht had 
placed at my disposal, was the occasion of it. Though a shrewd 
youth, he was cursed with a passionate temper. The Nama- 
quas had been teasing him for some time, when, suddenly un- 
folding his clasp-knife, he threatened to stab the nearest man, 
but was quickly deprived of the deadly instrument. His blood 
was up, however; and, seeing my rifle standing against the wall of 



278 THE AUTHOR SAVES KAMAPYU's LIFE. 

the old church, he made a rush for it, and was about to discharge 
the contents into one of his tormentors, when, throwing myself 
hurriedly between the contending parties, I fortunately pre- 
vented the catastrophe. Being now convinced that a storm was 
brewing, I quickly pushed the boy through the door of the 
building, and placed myself resolutely at the entrance. 

Notwithstanding the Namaquas would not hesitate to shoot 
any of their slaves for the smallest offense, they consider such an 
act, on the part of one of the subjected race against his master, 
to be of so atrocious a character, that they would undoubtedly 
have torn the lad to pieces, had I not been present. As it 
was, they rose to a man. and swore they would have his life. 
The boy, on his part, instead of betraying any symptoms of 
fear, was foaming with rage ; and, had I permitted it, would 
unhesitatingly have attacked the whole party. 

Finding that I was determined to foil them of their victim, 
they turned their ire on me. I quietly told them that the lad 
was in my employ, and that, if they left him alone, I would 
duly investigate the matter, and, should I find him guilty, 
would punish him severely. But, if they chose to take the law 
into their own hands, they must look to the consequences, for 
they should only pass to the youth over my body. This some- 
what cooled their rage, and, after much parleying, the matter 
was finally and peacefully settled. 

Many a time since has the same boy, by the violence of his 
temper, placed me and himself in the most critical positions, 
and I often marveled that he was not killed. At last he re- 
ceived a severe lesson. Having, one day, coquetted with some 
Kalahari women, the indignant husband or parent sent him off 
with two poisoned arrows, one of which pierced his nose, and 
the other transfixed his arm. For a short time he suffered ago- 
nies, but escaped with his life. 

Excepting his passionate temper, he was an excellent fellow — 
honest, willing, obliging, industrious, enduring, but, above all, 
an inimitable " tracker." Indeed, in this respect he surpassed 
the bushmen. Many a weary mile have I trodden under his 
able guidance, and many a wild beast have I laid low by his as- 
sistance. His sight was also remarkable. I rather pride my- 
self on my experience as a woodsman, and usually proved a 
match for the natives ; but this youth beat me hollow. My 
men called him Kamapyu — a most appropriate name, since it 
signified hot water. I was at last compelled to part with him, 
which I did with considerable reluctance. I rewarded his 
services, which had proved invaluable to me, by a variety of 



GRIQUA ELEPHANT HUNTERS. 27S 

things, besides sufficient cattle to buy him half a dozen wives, 
an acquisition which, next to carnivorous food, is the greatest 
bliss of a savage. 

After my departure from Jonker's, I directed my steps to- 
wards Cornelius. On taking leave of this chief the previous 
year, I promised forthwith to return with a supply of goods, 
provided he and his people behaved themselves satisfactorily. 
In order to save time, I dispatched a messenger to acquaint him 
with my approach, as also to request him to call his tribe to- 
gether, and urge them to bring such cattle as they desired to 
dispose of. My wish was attended to ; for, on arriving at the 
werft, I found about two hundred head of cattle waiting for me, 
which, after some little bargaining, I secured in the course of 
two days. I had the misfortune, however, to lose a small por- 
tion of this number, which broke through the kraal in the night, 
and were never again heard of. I strongly suspect they were 
stolen by the original owners. I had also the mishap to get my 
telescope spoiled. Being, probably, smitten by the lustre of the 
metal, the mischievous Namaqua lads extracted the object glass, 
which could be of no earthly use to them, except as an ornament. 

About this time two of my horses died of the " horse-sick- 
ness." One still remained, and though a remarkably fleet ani- 
mal, was so shy as to be useless as a hunter. He was the same 
that ran away with me at Cape-Town. The natives offered to 
buy him at a great price ; but I had made up my mind that, rather 
than go without him, I would run the risk of losing him by the 
fearful distemper in question. However, he lived to see the 
Lake, where I finally disposed of him. 

Some days after my arrival at Cornelius' werft, my old friend, 
Amral, made his appearance. He was accompanied by a party 
of Griquas, 1 from whom I learnt much to interest me. 

In the hope of meeting with elephants, they had crossed the 
Kalahari direct from their own country, but had suffered great 
privations ; for though, from all appearances, water must ha\e 
been abundant in the rainy season, the desert was fearfully dry 
when they passed through it. They had occasionally been as 
much as nine consecutive days without a drop of water, but 
sustained their own lives, and those of their quadrupeds, by 
sucking and eating the wild gourd, which, fortunately, covered 
the waste in great abundance. To lessen the bitterness of the 
juice, they first cooked or roasted the fruit. 

1 Descendants of Dutch farmers and Hottentot women ; and hence also called 
Bastards. 



280 ARRIVAL AT REHOBOTH. 

The party, which consisted of no less than forty-seven wagons, 
had penetrated to within a few days of the Lake Ngami ; but, 
not finding elephants, they retraced their steps. A certain 
portion of the country they had visited was infested by the 
"tsetse," by whose poisonous bites they had lost some of the 
cattle and horses. The "horse-sickness" also prevailed. 

I engaged, as Bechuana interpreter, one of the Griquas, who 
had visited the lake by the ordinary route {via Kuruman). He 
spoke of the inhabitants as civil and hospitable, but warned me 
against the Dutch farmers, should I fall in with any. I was 
well aware of their troublesome disposition ; but, of course, 
made due allowance for the exaggerations of an individual 
belonging to a nation who are sworn enemies to the boers. 
The Griquas supposed that Ngami might be reached in nine 
days from Tunobis (the furthest point to the eastward reached 
by Mr. Galton about a year and a half ago), and said that two 
or three fountains existed on the road. 

On the 17th of March I found myself at Rehoboth, having in 
little more than a month, with borrowed oxen, passed over 
several hundred miles of country, and obtained by barter 
about three hundred head of cattle. I felt rather proud of the 
performance. My other wagons, which I had ordered to take 
the Kuisip route, had not yet arrived. I felt disappointed, and 
was unable to account for the delay, since want of oxen could 
not have been the cause, the missionaries having kindly and 
promptly sent me more than one team. Indeed, Onesimus had 
started, with upwards of forty well-trained beasts, several 
weeks previously to my reaching the station, and I began to 
fear that some evil had befallen them. 

Whilst abiding their forthcoming, I busied myself in mapping 
the country, and exploring the neighborhood. Close to the 
station rose some conspicuous masses of granite (on Mr. Gal ton's 
map erroneously termed limestone), interspersed with large 
quantities of glittering quartz. From the highest peak I 
obtained a fine and extensive view of the surrounding country. 
The beautiful table-mountain of Tans, visible from many points, 
stood out in bold relief against the western horizon. In a clear 
atmosphere it may be distinguished at an immense distance. 
Thus, it can be discerned at Onanis, from the top of " Wit- 
water" range, at Rehoboth, and even considerably to the south 
on the Fish river. 

Sir James Alexander, in his journey to Walfisch Bay from 
the Orange river, climbed Tans mountain, and considered its 
elevation to be about 4,000 feet ; but he does not say whether 



COPPER OR E J O NATHAN AFRIKA. 281 

above the plain or the level of the sea. Be that as it may, 
however, I do not think either estimation correct. Mr. Voll- 
mer, who once, with great labor, crossed the table of Tans in 
his own wagon, informed me that its western aspect, or side 
facing the Kuisip, is very steep and high, but the eastern slope 
is gradual, and not a great deal elevated above the plain. 

The rocks all about Rehoboth are strongly impregnated with 
copper, and specimens of the ore, of a very productive quality 
(forty to ninety per cent ), are occasionally found. I presented 
Mr. Reid with several pieces, giving him permission to use them 
as he thought fit. I advised him, however, to get them 
analyzed by Mr. Schmieterleuv, whom I knew to be a straight- 
forward man, but he preferred to subject them to his own 

friend, Dr. G . After about a year's absence, I met Mr. 

Reid again, and, on asking him what advantage he had derived 
from the copper I gave to him, he replied, "None whatever. 

Dr. Gr declared the specimens were worthless. Yet, not long 

afterwards, he went into partnership with a certain merchant 
on the strength of these identical specimens." So much for 
friendship ! 

Captain Zwartbooi's people had started off to Damara-land 
under pretext of looking out for fountains, but the sequel 
proved it was solely with a view of stealing cattle. The exam- 
ple set them by Jonker, Cornelius, and others, was too strong 
to be longer withstood. 

One evening, Jonathan Afrika presented himself at the 
station. I had already, at Barmen, seen this man, who was of 
Bechuana extraction, but had been brought up amongst civilized 
people. A shrewder fellow I never came across. He bore an 
excellent character throughout the country. When he first 

arrived, he accompanied Mr. M , the trader, in whose service 

he suffered much privation. 

Jonathan, who soon afterwards entered into my service, was 
a man of great courage, and an excellent marksman. He had 
shared many a hunting exploit with his friend Hans, and had 
made numerous lions bite the dust. 

On one occasion, Jonathan was riding leisurely along, when 
suddenly, a short distance in advance of him, a line lion rushed 
out of the bushes. Throwing himself quickly off the ox, he 
gave chase to the beast, calling out loudly : " Nay, stop a little. 
To-day we must, indeed, talk with each other." Whether the 
lion thought he could not escape, or that he considered his 
dignity concerned, I shall not presume to say, but, at all events, 
he stopped to look at his pursuer. No sooner, however, had he 



282 A LION SUPS ON A GOAT. 

turned his head, than a well-directed ball entered one of his 
eyes and laid him low in an instant. 

After waiting at Rehoboth for about a week, I had the 
satisfaction to see my men and wagon arrive in safety. The 
cause of the delay had been the nature of the road, the greater 
part of which consisted of a succession of sand ridges, as bad as 
those at Scheppmansdorf. The oxen were good, and more than 
sufficient to do the work, but from want of yokes, they could 
only make use of twelve at a time. 

The men had also been much plagued by lions. One fine moon- 
light night, just as they had unyoked at the base of a small sand- 
hill, one of these animals appeared immediately above. After 
having eyed them for a moment, he dashed in amongst the goats, 
and before the men could get their guns in order, he was out of 
harm's way with one of the quadrupeds. 

At another time, a lion made a rush at the cattle when at 
pasture, who fled pecipitately into a defile, where, not finding an 
outlet, they faced about and confronted their fierce antagonist. 
The beast evidently dreaded the forest of bristling horns, for, 
after having paced to and fro at the entrance of the pass the 
best part of the night, keeping cattle and men in great tribu- 
lation by his savage growls, he slunk off towards morning. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

DISPATCH CATTLE TO THE CAPE TERRIBLE THUNDER-STORM TREES STRUCK 

BY LIGHTNING — THE NOSOP RIVER A COMET THE AUTHOR NEARLY 

POISONED SOME OF THE MEN ABSCOND ; THEY RETURN TO THEIR DUTY 

BABEL-LIKE CONFUSION OF TONGUES GAME ABUNDANT AUTHOR SHOOTS 

A GIRAFFE MEET BUSHMEN UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT HUNT SUFFER- 
INGS FROM HUNGER TUNOBIS GAME SCARCE AUTHOR AND STEED EN- 
TRAPPED PIT-FALLS THE MEN TURN SULKY ■ — PREPARATIONS FOR 

DEPARTURE FROM TUNOBIS VICIOUS PACK-OXEN CONSEQUENCES OF 

EXCESSIVE FATIGUE THE JACKAL'S HANDY-WORK TRACKS OF ELEPHANTS 

MORE PIT-FALLS LOSS OF THE ANGLO-SAXON LION AND THE SWEDISH 

CROSS REACH GHANZE. 

On the 1st of April I dispatched my cattle (three hundred 
and sixty in number) to the Cape in charge of old Piet, Thomas 
Gibbons, William, and two or three Damaras. The first-men- 
tioned was well accustomed to a large drove of oxen, and was 
the only one of the party in whom I had any confidence. Under 
such circumstances, it was, perhaps, natural that I should feel 
some misgivings about their safe arrival. But I placed my trust 
in that same Providence who had hitherto watched over the 
lonely stranger, firm in the conviction that, whatever befell me 
or my property (both of which I was about to risk in the cause 
of humanity and civilization), would be for the best. 

Fearing, from experience, that wagons would be only an in- 
cumbrance, and impede the dispatch, if not defeat the success, 
of my expedition to the Ngami, I parted with them. As I knew, 
however, that the road as far as Tunobis was practical for wheel- 
carriages, I borrowed an old battered vehicle for the occasion, 
intending to send it back with Eyebrecht. Thence- 1 purposed 
pursuing the journey with pack-and-ride oxen. This, though 



2S4 TERRIBLE THUNDER-STORM. 

the most eligible plan, subjects the traveler to much hardship 
and inconvenience, from exposure to the inclemency of the 
weather, and the very small stock of provisions, etc., that can 
be conveyed. 

Up to this period the men had worked well and willingly ; 
but the day on which I bade farewell to the hospitable mission- 
ary roof (5th of April), Timbo became sulky and expressed a 
wish to return to the Cape, from which I had some difficulty in 
persuading him. It was the first time I had real cause for being 
dissatisfied with the man, but not the last. 

Four days after this little difficulty was got over, it came on 
to rain so tremendously, that it seemed as if we were going to 
have another deluge. For three days and as many nights, it 
continued to pour down with scarcely any intermission. The 
scriptural expression, "The windows of heaven were opened," 
might indeed have been here realized. During the last twelve 
hours the thunder and lightning were truly appalling, and per- 
fectly stunned and blinded us. Peal after peal, flash after flash, 
followed in rapid succession — re-echoed and reflected from a 
hundred peaks. Trees were broken short off or torn up by the 
roots by the violence of the wind. 

-The clouds, 



From many a horrid rift, abortive pour'd 
Fierce rain with lightning mix'd, water with fire 
In ruin reconciled ; nor slept the winds 
"Within their stony caves, but rush'd abroad 
From the four' hinges of the world, and fell 
On the vexed wilderness, whose tallest pines, 
(Though rooted deep as high), and sturdiest oaks, 
Bow'd their stiff necks, loaden with stormy blast 
Or torn up sheer." 

The men's tent, which was secured with numerous strong 
straps to the side of the wagon, was carried bodily away, and 
men and quadrupeds were literally swimming in the torrent, 
which, rushing down with irresistible fury from the slopes of 
the hills, swept over our camping ground. The poor dogs howl- 
ed from fear and suffering. Every moment I expected to see 
the wagon capsized by the blast, or, what was worse, struck by 
lightning, as we had somewhat incautiously encamped under a 
kameel-doorn boom, which is one of the most certain of conduct- 
ors. Indeed, nearly two-thirds of the full-grown trees of this 
kind are found splintered by the electric fluid. 

So completely did this deluge saturate and swamp the locality, 
that for two days after the rains had ceased we were unable to 



THE NOSOP RIVE R A HAPPY FAMILY. 285 

move ; yet such is the partial operation even of such thunder- 
storms as we had just endured, that, after traveling a day or two 
further to the eastward, we all but perished from thirst, and the 
vegetation was parched and sunburnt ! 

Our route lay through a country similar in character to that 
traveled over by Mr. Galton and myself, about a year and a half 
previously, in our journey to the eastward — namely, large sandy 
plains, richly covered with fine grass and brushwood, with occa- 
sional clusters of kameel-thorn trees. Water was very scarce. 

From the number of bleached bones of rhinoceroses, giraffes, 
and other wild beasts scattered about, it was evident that game 
had at one time been abundant in these parts ; but the introduc- 
tion of fire-arms amongst the Namaquas had either put an end 
to the animals, or scared them away to less peopled haunts. 
With the exception of hyaenas and jackals, beasts of any size 
were scarce. 

In about a fortnight we reached the Nosop river, near to its 
junction with the black Nosop. The two streams, when united, 
flow under the common name of Nosop ; and, though nothing is 
known of the course of this river three days south of Wesley 
Vale, it is believed ultimately to make its way to the Orange 
river. Indeed, the fact offish having been found in the pools at 
Elephant Fountain, of similar kind to those inhabiting the Garieb 
(the Orange) river, strengthens the supposition. 

I had ordered Eyebrecht to meet me on the Nosop, and I 
found him in company with a handsome Griqua girl, whom he 
had married according to the fashion of the Namaquas. The 
union bade fair to be a fruitful one, for the happy couple were 
already blessed with an infant. The face of the tawny-com- 
plexioned husband was beaming with paternal pride and satis- 
faction. He was living with his father-in-law (Jan Zaal), a 
great hunter, with whom I also took up my quarters for a short 
time. The people were exceedingly kind to me, and remark- 
ably clean and neat in all their household arrangements. 
Besides, I enjoyed an unlimited supply of sweet and sour milk, 
both of which I greatly relished. 

During my stay on the Nosop, I observed for several nights 
a remarkable comet. On the last of April, about eight o'clock 
in the evening, when about to set, the latitude being 23° S., 
it bore 296° by compass. 

Having engaged my host's son, Klaas Zaal, to accompany me 
as a wagon-driver as far Tunobis, whence he and Eyebrecht 
were to return, I was again on the move on the afternoon of the 
4th of May. For a day or two, we followed the right bank of 



2S6 SOME OF THE SERVANTS ABSCOND. 

the white Nosop, and then crossed over to the other branch, 
where in order to explore the road before us, we rested a couple 
of days. 

Having proceeded one morning in search of game, I became 
very hungry ; and, observing an inviting bean-looking fruit, I 
ate greedily of it ; but it nearly cost me my life. I was seized 
with giddiness, vomiting, and racking pains, and arrived in a 
staggering and bewildered state at our camp, completely ex- 
hausted. I then learnt that the pulse I had eaten, in a raw 
state, was highly deleterious ; but, if cooked, could not only be 
eaten with impunity, but was really beneficial. 

Almost from my first entrance into the country, thinking 
that I might one day be obliged to live on bushman diet, I 
partook eagerly of every root, bulb, berry, etc., that grew wild 
about the country ; but always (with the exception of the above 
instance) took the precaution first to ascertain from the natives 
its properties. I derived benefit from this plan ; for when ordi- 
nary food failed me, I could at all events contrive to exist for a 
time on this rude fare. 

On returning one day to the camp from a fatiguing hunt, I 
found that all my Damaras had absconded. I was astonished 
and vexed beyond measure ; for the greater part had been long 
in my employ and had proved themselves very faithful. One 
of them had, only the day previously, been telling me that un- 
less I drove him forcibly away, he would never abandon me, 
but would share my fortune whether good or bad. I soon dis- 
covered that Timbo had caused the defection. I had appointed 
him head-man of the servants ; but, he being dark complexioned, 
the Damaras did not like to be ruled by one so much resem- 
bling themselves. 

In the first burst of anger, I declared I would do without 
them, and that I would punish them severely on my return. 
A moment's reflection, however, convinced me that both for my 
own sake, and by way of example to the remainder of the men, 
it was necessary, if possible, to bring them back to their duty. 
Eyebrecht was accordingly dispatched on this errand. After 
several days' absence, he returned with the runaways ; and as 
they looked penitent, I thought it best to pass the offense 
quietly over and say nothing. 

At Twass, the head quarters of Lambert, Amral's eldest son 
— a chief of even greater importance than his father — I was 
joined by Piet, the Griqua, who was to accompany me to the 
Lake in the capacity of interpreter. He knew the Bechuana 
language tolerably well, and, as a matter of course, spoke Dutch 



NEW ROUTE AUTHOR SHOOTS A GIRAFFE. 2S7 

fluently. Onesimns also knew a smattering of this last tongue, 
and was perfect in the Damara and Namaqua. Louis was pretty 
well versed in Portuguese, and the different dialects of the 
countries bordering upon the settlements about the Mozambique- 
channel. Personally, I could make myself understood, in more 
than one European language ; and this Babel-like confusion was 
completed by Timbo's patois. 

The preceding year, when our steps were pointed in the same 
direction as at present, we traveled on the summit of the low 
range of hills which take their rise near to Twass, extending 
eastward. We were then on saddle-oxen ; but from what we 
saw of the country we deemed it nearly impracticable for wag- 
ons. I therefore determined to strike through the woods at 
the base of the hills in question, or along the valley intervening 
between them and another mountain range running in the same 
direction. The soil proved exceedingly soft and yielding, and 
the bushes harassing ; yet this new route was preferable to the 
other. 

We saw a good deal of game, chiefly of the larger kinds ; but 
the animals were wary, and I shot badly. My horse was so 
unsteady as to be of little or no use. His speed was great ; he 
was a match for the swiftest antelope ; but when I fired from 
his back, he was very apt to start on one side. If his rider, at 
such times, was not on his guard, the chances were in favor of 
his being dismounted. One day, Eyebrecht begged eagerly to 
be allowed to try his hand on the giraffes, which abounded in 
this locality. His request was granted, and I lent him my horse, 
though we well knew what would be the result. After nearly 
a whole day's absence, he returned, when the men hailed him 
with shouts of laughter, as his appearance too plainly indicated 
his misfortunes. But, notwithstanding his flushed face and torn 
and soiled dress, he stoutly denied having been thrown. It so 
happened, however, that the very next day we passed a spot 
where he had been chasing a herd of giraffes, and where we 
could distinctly see the marks of how the scared horse had been 
dragging Eyebrecht along the ground for a considerable dis- 
tance. 

On arriving at Elephant-Kloof, we had better success. My 
first prize consisted of a magnificent giraffe, which dropped 
dead to the first shot — the only instance I recollected of killing 
this animal outright with a single bullet. I never before or 
since (excepting, perhaps, a cow-elephant) saw so fat an animal. 
The flesh was delicious, and I thought my men would kill 
themselves by gorging. Indeed, Bonfield became seriously ill, 



288 UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT HUNT. 

and, for a whole week, was unable to take nourishment of any 
description, not even coffee. Everything he tried to swallow 
was instantly rejected. At one time, I became apprehensive 
for his safety. My Griqua guide also got indisposed from feed- 
ing too heartily on an oily ostrich. 

From the midst of abundance, we were — or rather I was — 
soon reduced to the other extreme. When half way to Otji- 
ombinde, we encountered some bushmen, who persuaded me to 
go in search of elephants, which they said abounded at no great 
distance. A person might visit the place they frequented, and 
come back the same day. Having hastily made a few arrange- 
ments, I set out ; but, foolishly relying on their statements, 
provided myself with only one small slice of raw flesh, which, 
after a while, in the full anticipation of a quick and successful 
return, I gave to the half-starved " children of the desert." I 
was sadly out of reckoning, however; for, instead of it being 
merely a few hours to the water in question, we traveled a 
whole day, at a brisk pace, before reaching our destination. 

We were now at the beginning of the cold season, and the 
nights had already attained a very low temperature. The day 
had been oppressively hot ; we had journeyed rapidly ; and, in 
the hurry, I had come away without my coat. As evening set 
in, I felt a deadly chill stealing over me ; and though we found 
fuel, I deemed it necessary to do with as little fire as possible, 
for fear of alarming the elephants, should they make their 
appearance. Thrusting my head into a bush, and bundling my 
body in as small a compass as was possible, I spent a long and 
comfortless night. 

At break of day we were stirring. On arriving at the water, 
which was not far distant from our bivouac, we had the satis- 
faction to discover the fresh tracks of elephants, but out of 
the troop that had visited the place, there was only one bull. 
His tracks were of course selected in preference to the rest ; 
but though we followed them perseveringly till near sunset, 
all our endeavors to come up with the animal proved vain. 

Hungry, disheartened, and exhausted, we retraced our steps 
to the bivouac, where we spent another more cheerless night. 
Two days had now elapsed without my having tasted a morsel 
of food, nor did I obtain any until I reached my own people at 
the expiration of the third day. 1 

1 On accidentally mentioning my fast to Captain Stuart, the distinguished 
Australian traveler, he assured me it was a mere trifle to what he himself had 
once suffered, having been six and a half consecutive days without nourishment 
of any kind ! 



SUFFERINGS FROM HUNGER A DILEMMA. 2S9 

During the last twelve hours, I am free to confess, I was 
almost ravenous enough to eat my shoe-soles, and probably 
might have done so had time and opportunity permitted to boil 
them down to a jelly. Contrary to custom, the field we had 
traversed was destitute of eatables of any sort. Once, indeed, 
I observed a small antelope, but the animal only seemed to 
mock our sufferings ; for, before I could level my piece, he 
vanished. Seeing the bushmen try to appease their hunger 
with a bitter, woody substance, I could not resist the tempt- 
ation to taste it, though warned of the consequences. But 
scarcely had I masticated the first mouthful, before I was seized 
with tormenting nausea and sickness. 

From our great success on a former occasion at Tunobis, I 
expected to find full employment for my rifle, on my arrival 
there. But, alas ! now that we stood so much in need of 
animal food, not a wild beast was to be seen. At first, one 
might almost be led to imagine that the amazing number of 
animals congregated here, less than two years before, must be 
either killed or driven altogether away from the locality ; but 
this was not the case. Water was still to be found in the vleys 
and pools at some distance ; and, until these were exhausted, 
wild animals were little likely to visit a spot where they were 
subject to constant persecution. 

One or two rhinoceroses, however, occasionally visited the 
fountains, as appeared by their tracks. These I determined 
to watch, whilst I dispersed my men over the adjoining coun- 
try in search of game. One night a huge animal came wad- 
dling along ; but though I lodged a ball in its body, it was 
to no purpose. The men were equally unsuccessful, and 
returned, after several days' absence, half starved, and conse- 
quently as ravenous as wolves. They had encountered several 
rhinoceroses, zebras, etc.; but they only wounded or mangled 
the poor beasts. It seemed as if every gun, mine included, had 
been bewitched. 

Tunobis, as often stated in the preceding pages, was the 
furthest easterly point which Galton and myself had attained 
in our journey towards the Ngami. Every inch of the ground 
a-head was now unknown, to Europeans at least. The bush- 
men, it is true, had furnished us with some information ; but it 
was either too vague to be relied upon or not applicable to the 
course I intended to pursue. Knowing nearly the position of 
the Lake, I was anxious to take as straight a line as possible ; 
but, on consulting the few natives hereabout, they declared that 
were I to do so it would be certain destruction to myself and 
19 J 



290 THE PIT-FALL. 

cattle, inasmuch as the " field" in that direction was one howl- 
ing wilderness, totally destitute of water. By traveling south- 
ward, however, for a few stages along the sandy and dry water- 
course of Otjiombinde, I should, they said, run no risk. I was 
quite at a loss to know how far I could depend on their inform- 
ation ; but Piet, the interpreter, who had crossed the Kalahari 
in the beginning of the rainy season, having corroborated their 
story, I no longer hesitated to follow their advice. 

Before finally quitting Tunobis, an incident occurred which 
bade fair to finish my career in this world. Cantering along 
one day in the bed of the river Otjiombinde, with a view of 
ascertaining its course, I all at once found myself on the very 
verge of a pit-fall ! but it was too late, for at the moment I 
was about to rein in my horse, down we both went together. 
with a fearful crash, through the light net-work of sticks and 
grass that covered it, to the bottom of the gulf, which could 
not have been less than ten feet in depth, though happily with- 
out either of us breaking our necks ! 

This pit-fall w T as specially intended for the giraffe, which 
abounded hereabout, and was very different in construction from 
those in use for elephants, rhinoceroses, and other large animals; 
for instead of a single cavity, it was divided into two compart- 
ments, separated from each other by a wall of earth. Though 
I never before knew the meaning of this peculiar arrangement, 
it was soon explained. My horse having recovered somewhat 
from his surprise, and the stunning effects of the fall, plunged 
violently forward, and endeavored to leap the wall in question ; 
but he only got his fore quarters over it, and the depth of the 
hole preventing him from touching the ground either with 
his fore or hind feet, his whole weight rested on his belly ; and 
thus suspended between earth and heaven, he became totally 
helpless. 

Seeing that the poor animal could not possibly live long in 
this position, and that I was too far from camp to return for 
assistance, I unhesitatingly sprang back into the pit, from which 
I had just extricated myself, and placing my shoulders under 
his chest (my feet resting against the pit to give me a better 
leverage), I exerted all my strength, and succeeded in pushing 
him back into the compartment in which he had been originally 
deposited. Finding that he was about to renew the plunge, I 
seized the bridle with my left hand and held his head forcibly 
down, whilst with my right hand, and by the aid of a stick that 
I picked up, I scraped away the soil on one side of the pit so 
that it became in a degree an inclined plane ; with my feet I 



THE PIT-FALL. 



291 



also so far leveled the wall that it formed a kind of platform. 
This matter being arranged, I laid myself on my back on the 
edge of the pit and pulled stoutly at the bridle. The horse 
understood me, for, with a violent jerk of his body, he sprang on 
to the platform, and next to the inclined plane, where for a 
moment he nearly lost his equilibrium, but at last successfully 
cleared the abyss. 

The poor brute was so sensible of the danger he had escaped, 
that, on finding himself on firm ground, he uttered a wild, half- 
suppressed neighing, or rather scream, and continued to tremble 
violently for several minutes. On examining him, I found he 
had sustained no further injury than the loss of a tew inches of 
skin and a quantity of hair. As for myself, I escaped with a vio- 
lent twist of the neck, which inconvenienced me slightly for 
a few days. 




Almost all the tribes of Southern Africa avail themselves of 
pit-falls (often on a most gigantic scale) for the capture of game. 
These traps, or rather, these lines of pit-falls, are either con- 
structed in the shape of very obtuse triangles, open at the base 
and gradually tapering to a point, where a single, double, or 
treble row of pits are dug, into which the game is driven by 
shouts and yells; or they are formed in the shape of a crescent 



292 MEN TURN SULK?. 

— often miles in extent — usually shutting out a valley or defile, 
with pits at every fifty or a hundred paces apart, artfully con- 
cealed with grass, sand, etc., the intervening spaces being 
planted and filled up with stout palisades, closely interwoven 
with boughs and branches of thorn-trees. 

The Hill-Damaras are remarkable for the perseverance and 
industry they exhibit in the construction of game-pits. From 
want of proper tools, the trees have first to be burnt down and 
then carried on men's shoulders to their destination, and when 
we add to this that the task is frequently executed in the most 
arid districts — the haunts of the gemsbok, the eland, the koodoo 
and other tenants of the wilds, who are capable of existing 
more or less without water for long periods — it is easy to ima- 
gine the labor and fatigue of the process. 

On counting over the different articles of my baggage, I 
found that at least nine or ten oxen would be required to carry 
them, in addition to those necessary for myself and men to ride 
upon. Almost all my cattle were young, and only half broken 
in, and there was scarcely time for further training. To save 
all trouble, I felt inclined to push on with the old wagon ; but, 
for more than one reason, the idea was quickly abandoned. I 
worked night and day, but was much harassed. Through care- 
lessness, the hyaenas were allowed to devour the skins intended 
for pack-" riems" and divers minor articles. The men were 
lazy, stubborn, and ill-humored ; and I was kept constantly on 
the rack by their annoyances. One day I was obliged to resort 
to the very unusual measure of flogging Onesimus,who by this 
time thought himself too civilized to need correction. Indeed, 
they were all more or less of this opinion, and wanted their 
dismissal. Having always been kind and considerate towards 
my men — too much so, perhaps — I felt disgusted at their in- 
gratitude, and exclaimed, rather passionately — " Yes, go cow- 
ards ! go and tell your friends that you have left your master in 
the desert to the mercy of wild beasts and savage men : go and 
exult. Your conduct shall not prevent me from persevering in 
my plans." On more mature consideration, however, they 
thought better of it, and again returned to their duty with a 
good will." 

After many delays and the most strenuous exertions, every- 
thing was at length in readiness for a start. Before setting off, I 
wrote to some of my friends at the Cape, and also a letter or 
two to Europe, intrusting them to Eyebrecht, who returned 
forthwith to Walfisch Bay. 

At noon of the 14th of June, we assembled our oxen and 



DEPARTURE THE JACKAL S HANDY-WORK. 293 

began to pack ; but, though we labored till our heads turned 
giddy and our arras were paralyzed, we made but slow progress. 
No sooner had we finished arranging the burden of one ox, than 
another threw off his pack. It is utterly impossible for those 
who have never had ocular demonstration of this kind of work 
with half-wild cattle, to understand the difficulty, and imagine 
the ludicrous scenes that take place. I have already given a faint 
sketch of the process of training oxen, from which the reader 
may glean some notion of the obstacles to be surmounted — 
bearing in mind, at the same time, that, instead of a single ox, 
we had ten to load, besides those on which we were mounted, 
and which were not the most manageable. 

At last, we were off; but the day was then so far advanced, 
that we were unable to accomplish more than seven or eight 
miles before we found it necessary to make a halt, and to 
bivouac for the night. We were so thoroughly knocked up with 
the severe labor of the day, that, after having hastily removed 
the packs from the vicious beasts, we literally dropped to sleep 
where we stood — not one of the party giving a thought as to 
food, fire, water, or covering, of each and all we stood greatly 
in need. 

On returning to consciousness, the following morning, the 
first object that met my half-sleepy gaze was a jackal, busily 
engaged examining our baggage. Having no gun within reach, 
I threw a handful of sand at the impudent fellow, on which he 
saluted me with a mocking laugh, and slowly retreated. But 
had I then been aware of the full extent of his mischievous 
propensities, he should certainly not have escaped so easy. The 
brute had, indeed, devoured one of the "riems," with which we 
secured the packs on the oxen. Nothing could possibly have 
been more unfortunate ; the thong was, at that time, worth its 
weight in gold. We had ten oxen to pack, and only nine 
"riems!" Here, then, was a fine opportunity for a man to 
exert his ingenuity. It was totally out of the question to di- 
vide any of the remaining straps, for they were short and narrow 
enough already, and they must be of a certain length and solidity 
in order to serve the purpose effectually. At length, however, 
and after much searching, patching, and splicing, a very indif- 
ferent substitute was produced, and we were again en route — 
though not before I had, for the fiftieth time, vowed dire ven- 
geance against the whole race of jackals. 

This day (May 15th), we proceeded alternately in the bed and 
on the borders of the Otjiombinde river. The soil consisted of 
fine, white sand, reflecting a light dazzling and painful to the 



394 SAND-WELLS IN THE DESERT. 

eyes, whilst it was soft and yielding to the feet. The grass was 
still green and very plentiful, and the vegetation, in general, was 
rank. We passed several vleys containing small quantities of 
muddy water, alive with loathsome reptiles; and, in some 
places, the wallowing of elephants and rhinoceroses had con- 
verted it into a substance not unlike a mass of well-kneaded 
dough, heaving with insect life, and tinted and variegated by 
the stains of larger animals. Yet we drank, or rather gulped, 
it with avidity ! 

We encountered also a vast number of " sand-wells," varying 
from one to three fathoms in depth, with an average diameter 
at the top of twenty feet. The construction of these pits indi- 
cated great perseverance and skill, and had evidently been 
formed by a pastoral people possessed of large herds of cattle. 
No European would ever have dreamt of looking for water in 
such localities, since it usually lay ten feet below the surface of 
the ground, which gave no indication whatever of its presence. 
Not having been used or kept in repair for many a long year, 
several were partially filled with sand, but the greater portions 
were still in tolerable order. They contained no standing water, 
but plenty of moisture ; and, by inserting a reed — the plan adopt- 
ed by the bushmen when the liquid will not flow — enough to 
quench a person's thirst was generally obtained. Elephants 
had been at work in many, but were clearly disappointed. 

About sunset we came to a large vley, where a troop of 
elephants had evidently only a short time previously been en- 
joying themselves. This circumstance put my men on the qui 
vive; and my Griqua interpreter, who was one of the most 
chicken-hearted of beings, took good care to magnify the 
danger of encountering these animals at night. He declared 
that it was absolutely necessary to come to a halt ; but this did 
not suit my purpose at all. I assured my men that elephants, if 
left unmolested, were very timid and civil beasts, and that, no 
doubt, if we met them, and only gave them room to pass, they 
would, in all probability, treat us with equal courtesy. This 
having in some degree quieted their apprehensions, we proceeded 
till about nine o'clock, when we unloaded the tired oxen and 
camped for the night. As for ourselves, though much fatigued, 
we took the precaution to provide security from all skulking 
night-prowlers. By a roaring fire, and over a hearty supper, we 
forgot the miseries of the day ; and, in the firm anticipation of 
success, cheerfully resigned our weary limbs to sleep. 

At an early hour the next morning, we were on the move. 
The air being cool, we proceeded briskly. About noon some 



CHANGE COURSE. 297 

bushmen were ooserved digging roots; but they only allowed 
us to approach within shouting distance. We managed, how- 
ever, to hold some little conversation with them, and learnt 
that water was not far off. They warned us to proceed with 
caution, as the whole river-bed in advance was undermined 
with pit-falls. And true enough, for, before being aware of it, 
we found ourselves entrapped in a maze of yawning chasms, 
down some of which, bipeds and quadrupeds went together in 
the most amicable confusion. However, being partially pre- 
pared for the event, and traveling at a slow pace, we escaped 
with a few bruises. To prevent a recurrence of the mischief, a 
man or two proceeded in advance, and unmasked the remainder. 
They were constructed on the same principle as the one into 
which I had a short time previously been so unceremoniously 
precipitated. 

At two o'clock p.m., we came to a halt by a well of clear, 
good water. Within gun-shot of this place was a "salt-lick," 
much frequented by wild animals, such as rhinoceroses, giraffes, 
gemsboks, koodoos, elands, gnoos, etc. ; but I preferred to de- 
vote the ensuing night to rest and astronomical observations, 
rather than lying in ambush for game. 

At an after period I had some good sport in this locality ; as 
also some spirited chases after elands, which, as well as the 
animals themselves, are admirably represented on the accom- 
panying plate. But space prevents me from entering into de- 
tails. 

The Otjiombinde, without materially taking us out of our 
direct route, had thus far befriended us ; but if I wished to reach 
the Lake, it was now out of the question any longer to follow 
this river, as hence it pursued too southerly a course. According 
to the advice of the bushmen, therefore, we now left it to the 
right, and struck out in a northerly direction through an in- 
tensely dense " Wacht-een-bigtje" (thorn-jungle). After a few 
hours' travel, "we packed-ofF" to the eastward of some dilapi- 
dated limestone pits; but though they contained water, from 
the depth of the cavities, and the difficulty of access to them, it 
occupied the men several hours to supply the wants of our small 
herd of cattle. The next stage — a short one — we slept without 
water. 

In the course of the following day's march we had traversed 
dense brakes which annoyed us excessively ; for the thorns not 
only tore our flesh and clothes, but subtracted several articles 
of value from the pack-saddles. Amongst other losses, I had to 
bewail that of two magnificent flags — the British and the Swed- 



298 LOSS OF FLAGS. 

ish — which had been expressly made for, and presented to, me 
by my kind friend, Mr. Letterstedt, the Swedish Consul-General 
at the Cape, and which I hoped to have unfurled on the shores 
of the far-famed Ngami. All my efforts to recover these valued 
standards proved fruitless, some hysenas having probably swal- 
lowed the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross. 

At dusk, after having been ten hours in the saddle, we reached 
a famous place called Ghanze, where we pitched our camp. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

GHANZE SPOTTED HYjENA THE RHINOCEROS WHERE FOUND SEVERAL 

SPECIES DESCRIPTION OP RHINOCEROS SIZE APPEARANCE AGE 

STRENGTH SPEED — FOOD WATER THE YOUNG AFFECTION SENSES 

DISPOSITION GREGARIOUS INDOLENCE DOMESTICATION FLESH — ■ 

HORNS THE CHASE MR. OSWELL'S ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROSES 

A CROTCHET WHERE TO AIM AT THE RHINOCEROS DOES NOT BLEED 

EXTERNALLY WHEN WOUNDED GREAT NUMBERS SLAIN ANNUALLY. 

Gthanze, according to the interpretation of my Griqua, signi- 
fies very large, and yet very small. Absurd as this explanation 
may appear, there is, nevertheless, some aptness in it. The 
" very large" means, that, from the moisture of the ground, 
there is an indication of much water, whilst the real quantity is 
trifling. Ghanze is a peculiar and dreary-looking place, con- 
sisting of an extensive hollow, with innumerable small stones 
scattered over its surface, and on one side fenced by a natural 
limestone wall, three to five feet in height. The whole is hemmed 
in with thorn-coppices, intersected by numerous foot-paths, the 
work of those huge creatures, the elephant and the rhinoceros, 
who have probably wandered here for ages in undisputed sway. 
Here and there an " iron" tree, the mythological progenitor of 
the Damaras, stands majestically forth, shooting its wide-spread- 
ing branches high into space. 

Ghanze, it would appear, has been long known to the Bechu- 
anas and the Griquas. A party of the latter, I was told, 
reached it many years previously to my arrival in a despairing 
state, having been obliged to abandon their wagons in the 
Kalahari. The body of men from whom I obtained my inter- 
preter had also visited it. It had even been frequented by 



300 THE SPOTTED HYilNA RHINOCEROSES SHOT. 

Europeans. An English traveler, Moyle, crossed the desert in 
safety, and arrived at Ghanze in 1852, on a trading and hunting 
expedition. From this place he was guided by bushmen to 
Great Nam aqua-land, whence he retraced his steps home. The 
year after this, he again crossed the desert, though under un- 
favorable circumstances — having, with the exception of two 
horses, lost all his beasts of burden, as also his servants, some 
of whom died from want. 

Almost the first animal I saw at this place was a gigantic 
" tiger-wolf," or spotted hyaena, which, to my surprise, instead 
of seeking safety in flight, remained stationary, grinning in the 
most ghastly manner. Having approached within twenty paces, 
I perceived, to my horror, that his fore paws, and the skin and 
flesh of his front legs had been gnawed away, and that he could 
scarcely move from the spot. To shorten the sufferings of the 
poor beast, I seized my opportunity, and knocked him on the 
head with a stone ; and, catching him by the tail, drove my 
hunting-knife deep into his side. But I had to repeat the 
operation more than once before I could put an end to his ex- 
istence. I am at a loss how to account for his mangled condition. 
It certainly could not have been from age, for his teeth were 
good. Could it be possible that, from want of food, he had 
become too weak for further exertions, and that, as a last 
resource, he had attacked his own body ? Or was he an example 
of that extraordinary species of cruelty said to be practiced by 
the lion on the hyasna, when the latter has the insolence to 
interfere with the monarch's prey ? l 

Fortune once again favored us ; for, in the course of the few 
days we remained at Ghanze, several rhinoceroses were shot, 
affording an abundance of provisions. These animals were very 
numerous, but rather shy. One night I counted twenty defiling 
past me, though beyond reach. The cause of so unusual a 
number being seen together was as follows : — In the early part 
of the night, one or two were approaching the water, but, 
having winded me, they kept walking restlessly round the 
place, grunting and snorting most viciously. This had the 
effect of putting those who arrived later on their guard, and 
they soon joined company. 

Of all the South African animals, not the least curious, per- 
haps, is the Rhinoceros. He inhabits a large portion of the 

1 It is asserted by more than one experienced hunter, that when the hyaena 
proves troublesome, the lion has been known to bite off all its feet, and, thus 
mutilated, leave the poor animal to its fate ! 



SEVERAL SPECIES OF RHINOCEROS 



301 



African continent — such localities, at least, as are suitable to his 
habits. Formerly, as before mentioned, he was common even 
in the immediate vicinity of Cape-Town ; but, owing to constant 
persecution, is now rarely met further to the southward (I 
speak of the west coast) than about the twenty-third degree of 
latitude. In the interior, however, the tribe is still very numer- 
-ous. "On one occasion," says Captain Harris, in a private 
letter, " whilst walking from the wagons, to bring the head of 
a koodoo that I had killed about a mile off, I encountered 
twenty-two rhinoceroses, and had to shoot four of them to 
clear the way." 

The rhinoceros is, moreover, an inhabitant of Bengal, Siam, 
China, and other countries of Asia, as also of Java, Sumatra, 
and Ceylon. But the three species 1 indigenous to this quar- 
ter of the globe, would seem to be quite different from any 
yet found in Africa. Almost all the Asiatic species have an 
exceedingly coarse hide, covered with large folds, not unlike a 




HEADS OF RHINOCEROSES.2 



1 Rhinoceros Indicus, Rhinoceros Sondaicus, and Rhinoceros Bicornis Surna- 
trensis. 

2 The above wood-cut is a rough but characteristic outline of the heads of the 
four distinct species of rhinoceroses recognized as indigenous to Africa. The two 
lowest heads in the sketch are those of the " black." 



302 THE BLACK SPECIES. 

coat of mail ; whilst that of the African species is comparatively 
smooth. Two of the Indian rhinoceroses have only one horn, 
whereas all the African are provided with two. 1 The third 
Asiatic species, which is found in the island of Sumatra, re- 
sembles the African in having two horns, but in other respects 
differs considerably. 

Though the rhinoceros is abundant in the interior of Africa, 
it is described as far from numerous in Asia, and as less gene- 
rally distributed than the elephant. 

Four distinct species of rhinoceroses are known to exist in 
South Africa, two of which are of a dark color, and two of a 
whitish hue. Hence they are usually designated the " black" 
and the " white" rhinoceroses. One of the two species of 
" black" — the Borele, as it is called by the Bechuanas — is the 
common small black rhinoceros (rhi?wceros bicomis) ; the other, 
the Keitloa (rhinoceros Keitloa), or the two-horned black rhino- 
ceros, as it is also termed by naturalists. The latter differs from 
the Borele in being somewhat larger, with a longer neck ; in 
having the horns of nearly equal length, with a lesser number 
of wrinkles about the head ; and it is of a more wild and morose 
disposition. The upper lip of both (more especially in the 
Keitloa) is pointed, overlaps the lower, and is capable of ex- 
tension. It is pliable, and the animal can move it from side to 
side, twist it round a stick, collect its food, or seize with it any- 
thing it would carry to its mouth. Both species are extremely 
fierce, and, excepting the buffalo, are perhaps the most danger- 
ous of all the beasts in Southern Africa. 

Of the white species, we have the common white rhinoceros 
(rhinoceros simus, Burch.), called monoohoo by the Bechuanas, 
Kobaaba (rhinoceros Oswellii, Grray) or long-horned white rhino- 
ceros. 2 It is with regard to their horns that the two species 

1 I have met persons who told me that they have killed rhinoceroses with three 
horns ; but in all such cases (and they have been but few) the third, or posterior 
horn, is so small as to be scarcely perceptible. 

2 Only the horns of this species have been described by naturalists. Dr. Gray, 
of the British Museum, seems to be one of the first who drew attention to the 
Kobaaba as a distinct rhinoceros. In the " Proceedings of the Zoological So- 
ciety," No. ccl., p. 46, the following details appear. They were obtained from a 
pair of horns (of which the wood-cut in the next page is an excellent likeness) pre- 
sented by Mr. Oswell to Colonel Thomas Steele, of Upper Brook Street :— 

" The front horn is elongated and thick ; but instead of being bent back, as is 
the general character of R. bicornis, or erect, as in R. simus, it is bent forwards, 
so that the upper surface is worn flat by being rubbed against the ground. The 
front horn is thirty-one inches long, fiat, square, rough, and fibrous in front, 
rounded and smooth behind. The hinder horn, eleven inches in length, is short, 
conical, and sub-quadrangular." 



THE WHITE SPECIES 



303 



chiefly differ from each other ; for whilst the anterior horn of the 
Monoohoo has an average length of two or three feet, curving 




HORNS OF RHINOCEROS OSWELLIX. 



backward, that of the Kobaaba not unfrequently exceeds four 
feet, and is slightly pointed forward, inclining from the snout at 
about an angle of forty-five degrees. This rhinoceros is also the 
rarer of the two, and is only found in the more interior parts of 
South Africa. 

The chief distinguishing characteristics of the white rhinoceros 
are its superior size; the extraordinary prolongation of its head, 
which is not far from one-third of the whole length of the ani- 
mal's body ; its square nose (hence also designated " square- 
nosed rhinoceros"), and the greater length of the anterior 
horns. 

The " black" and the " white" rhinoceros, though so nearly 
allied to each other, differ widely in their mode of living, habits, 
etc. The chief sustenance of the former animal consists of the 
roots of certain bushes, which it ploughs up with its strong 
horn, and the shoots and tender boughs of the " wait-a-bit" 
thorn; whilst the "white" rhinoceros, on the contrary, feeds 
solely on grasses. 

In disposition, also, there is a marked distinction between 



304 DESCRIPTION OF RHINOCERO S A G E . 

them ; for, whilst the "black" is of a very savage nature, the 
" white," on the other hand, is of a comparatively mild disposi- 
tion ; and, unless in defense of its young, or when hotly pur- 
sued, or wounded, will rarely attack a man. 

The body of the rhinoceros is long and thick ; its belly is large, 
and hangs near the ground ; its legs are short, round, and very 
strong; and its hoofs are divided into three parts, each pointing 
forward. The head, which is remarkably formed, is large ; the 
ears are long and erect ; its eyes small and sunk. The horns, 
which are composed of a mass of fine longitudinal threads, or 
laminae, forming a beautifully hard and solid substance, are not 
affixed to the skull, but merely attached to the skin, resting, 
however, in some degree, on a bony protuberance above the 
nostrils. It is believed by many, that when the animal is at 
rest, the horns are soft and pliable, but that when on the move, 
they at once become hard and solid. Moreover, that it can, at 
will, turn the posterior horn, the other horn meanwhile remain- 
ing firm and erect. But there can scarcely be sufficient founda- 
tion for such notions. 

In size, the African rhinoceros— the white species, at least — 
is only exceeded by the elephant. A full-grown male (R. simus) 
measures, from the snout to the extremity of the tail (which is 
about two feet), between fourteen and sixteen feet, with a cir- 
cumference of ten or twelve. To judge from these data, and 
the general bulkiness of the body, it cannot weigh less than 
from four to five thousand pounds. In our " bush-cuisine," we 
reckoned one of these animals equal to three good-sized oxen. 

The general appearance of the African rhinoceros is not unlike 
that of an immense hog shorn of his hair, or rather bristles ; for, 
with the exception of a tuft at the extremity of the ears and the 
tail, it has no hair whatever. And, as if in mockery of its giant 
form, its eyes are ludicrously small ; so small, indeed, that at a 
short distance they are imperceptible. Altogether, what with 
its huge body, misshapen head, ungainly legs and feet, and 
diminutive organs of vision, the rhinoceros is the very image of 
ugliness. 

I have no data that would enable me to determine the age of 
this animal ; but if we are to judge from the length of time that 
the horns require to be perfected, and supposing the animal to 
continue to grow in the meanwhile, it may be safely conjectured 
that he is one of the most long-lived of beasts. Indeed, it is 
probable he attains the age of one hundred years. 

In strength, the rhinoceros is scarcely inferior to the elephant. 
Of its prodigious power, sufficient evidence was shown in the 



S T R E N G T H S PEE D F O O D W A T E R . 



305 



manner in which it charged the missionary wagon, as mentioned 
at page 27 of this volume. It is on record, moreover, that the 
rhinoceros, which Emanuel, King of Portugal, sent to the Pope 
in the year 1513, destroyed, in a paroxysm of fury, the vessel in 
which he was transported. 

Ungainly and heavy as the rhinoceros looks, it is, nevertheless, 
so exceedingly swift of foot — at least, as regards the black spe- 
cies — " that a horse with a rider," to quote the words of Gor- 
don Cumming, : ' can rarely manage to overtake it." The testi- 
mony of Captain Harris is to the like effect ; for, when speaking 
of the chase of this animal, and after telling us that it is most 
difficult to kill, he says : — " From its clumsy appearance one 
would never suppose it could dart about as it does, like light- 
ning." 

The food of the rhinoceros consists entirely, as mentioned, of 
vegetables, shoots of trees, grasses, etc. It is fond of the sugar- 
cane, and eats all kinds of grain j 1 but it does not seem to be a 
voracious feeder. Indeed, it would appear to be somewhat 
fastidious in the selection of its food, in search of which it wan- 
ders far and wide. 

Water is indispensable to the rhinoceros, and, even if his 
usual haunts be distant from the fountain, he seeks it at least 
once in the course of the twenty-four hours, as well to quench 
his thirst as to wallow in the mud, with which his body is fre- 
quently incrusted — leaving to the thirsty traveler nothing but a 
mass of well-kneaded dough. 




FCETUS OF RHINOCEROS KEITLOA. 



'The Asiatic specimen in the Zoological Gardens, Eegent's Park, is fed on 
clover, straw, rice, and bran. His daily allowance is one truss of straw, three- 
quarters of a truss of clover, one quart of rice, half a bushel of bran, and twenty 
to twenty-four gallons of water. 
20 



306 AFFECTION OF MOTHER AND OFFSPRING. 

Little seems to be known of the breeding habits of this animal ; 
whether it lives in monogamy, or has a plurality of wives, and 
so forth. It appears certain, however, that the female only 
produces one young at a birth, and that, too, at considerable 
intervals. During the first month, the young rhinoceros exceeds 
not the size of a large dog, with the merest indication of horns. 
A complete and full-grown foetus of R. Keitloa that I once ob- 
tained measured thus : — 

Length of body (from tip of nose, over the head, and along the 

back) to insertion of tail 3ft. 6in. 

Length of tail 10 

Oh cumference of body behind shoulder 2 4 

" neck 16 

" head (across the eyes) . . . . 18 

Height at the shoulder ........ 21 

Leugth of head between ears and eyes 4^ 

Breadth " " .04 

" " " eyes (corner nearest nostrils) . 7 

At the age of two years, the horn is said to be not more than 
an inch long ; at six years old, it is nine or ten inches long, and 
grows, as seen in the white species, to the length of three or 
four feet. 

The rhinoceros is a very affectionate mother, and guards her 
offspring with the tenderest care. The young, in its turn, clings 
doatingly to its dam ; and, even for a day or two after the latter 
has been killed, the calf is frequently found alongside the carcass. 
Several instances of the kind have come under my personal 
notice, and many others are to be found in the records of African 
travelers and hunters. 

The sense of hearing and smell of this animal is most acute. 
I have had numerous opportunities of testing both these quali- 
ties. Even when feeding, lying down, or obeying any passing 
demand of nature, he will listen with a deep and continued at- 
tention until the noise that has attracted his attention ceases. 
He " winds" an enemy from a very great distance ; but, if one 
be to leeward of him, it is not difficult to approach within a few 
paces. 

His sight, on the other hand is not good. From the peculiar 
position of his eyes — which are deep set in the head — and his 
unwieldy horns, he can only see what is immediately before him. 

The "black" species, as before said, are of a very sullen and 
morose disposition. They are, moreover, subject to sudden 
paroxysms of unprovoked fury, rushing and charging, with incon- 
ceivable fierceness, animals, stones, bushes — in short, any object 
that comes in their way. 



DISPOSITIO N F E R C I T Y . 307 

Seen in his native wilds, either when browsing at his leisure, 
or listlessly sauntering about, a person would take the rhinoceros 
to be the most stupid and inoffensive of creatures ; yet, when his 
ire is roused, he becomes the reverse, and is then the most agile 
and terrible of animals. 

Colonel Williamson speaks of a rhinoceros in India whose 
ferocity was such as to render the roads impassable, by attacking 
travelers, or those who passed near his haunts ; and he relates 
an attack upon a sporting company by the same animal, in the 
close of the year 1788, as generally known to the army and resi- 
dents of the district. " Two officers belonging to the troops 
cantoned at Dunapore, near Patna, went down the river towards 
Monghyr, to shoot and hunt. They had encamped in the vicinity 
of Derrzapore, and had heard some reports of a rhinoceros having 
attacked some travelers many miles off. One morning, just as 
they were rising, about day break, to go in quest of game, they 
heard a violent uproar ; and, on looking out, found that a rhino- 
ceros was goring their horses, both of which, being fastened by 
their head and heel with ropes, were consequently unable either 
to escape or resist. Their servants took to their heels, and con- 
cealed themselves in the neighboring jungle ; and the gentlemen 
had just time to climb up into a small tree not far distant, be- 
fore the furious beast, having completed the destruction of the 
horses, turned his attention to their masters. They were barely 
out of his reach, and by no means exempt from danger, especially 
as he assumed a threatening appearance, and seemed intent on 
their downfall. After keeping them in dreadful suspense for 
some time, and using some efforts to dislodge them, seeing the 
sun rise, he retreated to his haunt ; not, however, without oc- 
casionally casting an eye back, as with regret, at leaving what 
he wanted the power to destroy." 

But the rhinoceros is not dangerous to man alone — all the 
leasts of the forest dread him, and none venture to attack this 
truly formidable animal. The lion, if they chance to meet, 
slinks out of his way. Even the elephant, should they encoun- 
ter, retreats, if possible, without hazarding an engagement. 
Major Lally stated to the author of "Oriental Sports," that he 
once witnessed, from a distant hill, a most desperate battle be- 
tween a large male elephant and a rhinoceros, in which the 
former was worsted and fled. Amral told me, that one day, 
whilst himself and party were engaged in pursuit of an elephant, 
a black rhinoceros suddenly appeared amongst them, charging 
madly both beasts and men, several of whom had narrow 
escapes from being gored by the animal. 



308 GREGARIOUS HABITS DOMESTICATION FLESH. 

The rhinoceros will also fight his own species. One night, 
when at the "skarm," I saw four huge beasts engage each other 
at the same time, and so furious was the strife, and their grunt- 
ings so horrible, that it caused the greatest consternation 
amongst my party, who was encamped some little way off. I 
succeeded after a while in killing two of them, one of which 
was actually unfit for food, being quite rotten from wounds 
received on previous occasions, and, probably, under similar 
circumstances. 

The rhinoceros, though it cannot strictly be called a gregari- 
ous animal, and though most commonly met with singly or in 
pairs, would seem to be of a somewhat social disposition. In- 
deed, as many as a dozen have been seen pasturing and browsing 
together. 

The rhinoceros is nocturnal in his habits. At the approach 
of dusk he commences his rambles, and, if not disturbed, 
generally visits the pool at an early hour of the evening ; after- 
wards, he not unfrequently wanders over a great extent of 
country. Soon after sunrise, he seeks repose and shelter against 
the heat, under some friendly mimosa, or the projecting ledge of 
a rock, where he spends the day in sleep, either stretched at full 
length or in a standing position. Thus seen from a distance, he 
may easily be mistaken for the fragment of a rock. 

The Asiatic species is frequently kept in confinement, but, 
though generally tractable, his morose and savage nature makes 
him rather dangerous. The least provocation often puts him into 
a tempest of passion, when he will not hesitate to destroy his 
best friend. In his rage, he will jump about, and leap to a 
great height, driving his head furiously, and with incredible 
swiftness, against the partitions of his place of confinement. 
Three or four specimens are at the present day alive in Eng- 
land. 

The flesh of the rhinoceros varies greatly in quality. That 
of the "black species, from its leanness, and the animal feeding 
on the " wait-a-bit" thorn-bushes, which gives it an acrid and 
bitter flavor, is not over-esteemed. That of the white, on the 
other hand, whose sustenance consists of grass, which imparts 
to it an agreeable taste, coupled with its usual fatness, is greatly 
sought after by natives and colonists. Indeed, the flesh of this 
animal seems always to have been in repute in the Cape-Colony. 
Kolben, when speaking of it, says : " The flesh of a rhinoceros, 
which I have often eaten with a great deal of satisfaction, is not 
so sinewy as some writers have represented." 

The horns of the rhinoceros, which are capable of a high pol- 



HOBtfS THEIR VIRTUE THE CHASE. 309 

ish, are a valuable article of commerce. At the Cape, this 
commodity fetches half as much as ordinary elephant ivory. It 
is extensively used in the manufacture of sword handles, drink- 
ing cups, ramrods for rifles, and a variety of other purposes. In 
Turkey, the rhinoceros-horn is much esteemed, more especially 
such as have a reddish tint about the grain. These, when made 
into cups, the Turks believe to have the virtue of detecting 
poison. 

" The horns of the rhinoceros," says Thunberg, " w T ere kept 
by some people, both in town and country, not only as rarities, 
but also as useful in diseases, and for the purpose of detecting 
poison. As to the former of these intentions, the fine shavings 
of the horns taken internally were supposed to cure convulsions 
and spasms in children. With respect to the latter, it was gene- 
rally believed that goblets made of these horns in a turner's 
lathe would discover a poisonous draught that was put into 
them, by making the liquor ferment till it ran quite out of 
the goblet. Such horns as were taken from a rhinoceros 
calf were said to be the best, and the most to be depended 
upon." 

" The horn of the rhinoceros," Kolben tells us, " will not 
endure the touch of poison. I have often been a witness to 
this. Many people of fashion at the Cape have cups turned out 
of the rhinoceros-horn. Some have them set in silver, and some in 
gold. If wine is poured into one of these cups, it immediately 
rises and bubbles up as if it were boiling ; and if there be 
poison in it, the cup immediately splits. If poison be put by 
itself into one of those cups, the cup, in an instant, flies to 
pieces. Though this matter is known to thousands of persons, 
yet some writers have affirmed that the rhinoceros-horn has no 
such virtue. The chips made in turning one of those cups are 
ever carefully saved, and returned to the owner of the cup ; 
being esteemed of great benefit in convulsions, faintings, and 
many other illnesses." 

The chase of the rhinoceros is variously conducted in South- 
ern Africa. One of the most approved plans is to stalk the 
animal, either when feeding or reposing. If the sportsman 
keep well under the wind, and there be the least cover, he has 
no difficulty in approaching the beast within easy range, when, 
if the ball be well directed, the prey is usually killed on the 
spot. With a little precaution, this kind of sport may be con- 
ducted without greatly endangering a person's safety. 

But by far the most convenient way of destroying this ani- 
mal, is to shoot him from the " skarm" as he comes to the pool 



310 MR. OSWELL AND THE "WHITE RHINOCEROS. 

to quench his thirst. In this manner I have myself killed seve- 
ral scores of rhinoceroses. 

Occasionally he is also taken in pit-falls, which are constructed 
in pretty much the same manner as those for the capture of ele- 
phants and other large game. 

He is not often pursued on horseback, and chiefly because his 
speed and endurance are such that it is very difficult to come up 
with and follow him — to say nothing of the danger attendant 
on such a course. Many a hunter, indeed, has thereby endan- 
gered his life. 

" Once, as I was returning from an elephant chase," said Mr. 
Oswell to me, one day, in conversation, " I observed a huge 
white rhinoceros, a short distance a-head. I was riding a most 
excellent hunter — the best and fleetest steed that I ever pos- 
sessed during my shooting excursions in Africa — at the time ; 
but it was a rule with me never to pursue a rhinoceros on horse- 
back, and simply because this animal is so much more easily 
approached and killed on foot. On this occasion, however, it 
seemed as if fate had interfered. Turning to my after-rider, I 
called out — 'By heaven! that fellow has got a fine horn! I 
will have a shot at him.' With that I clapped spurs to my 
horse, who soon brought me alongside the huge beast, and 
the next instant I lodged a ball in his body, but, as it turned 
out, not with deadly effect. On receiving my shot, the rhino- 
ceros, to my great surprise, instead of seeking safety in flight, 
as is the habit of this generally inoffensive animal, suddenly 
stopped short, then turned sharply round, and, having eyed me 
most curiously for a second or two, walked slowly towards me. 
I never dreamt of danger. Nevertheless, I instinctively turned 
my horse's head away ; but, strange to say, this creature, usually 
so docile and gentle — which the slightest touch of the reins 
would be sufficient to guide — now absolutely refused to give me 
his head. When at last he did so, it was too late ; for, notwith- 
standing the rhinoceros had only been walking, the distance be- 
tween us was so inconsiderable, that by this time I clearly saw 
contact was unavoidable. Indeed, in another moment, I ob- 
served the brute bend low his head, and, with a thrust up- 
wards, struck his horn into the ribs of the horse with such force 
as to penetrate to the very saddle on the opposite side, where I 
felt its sharp point against my leg. The violence of the blow 
was so tremendous as to cause the horse to make a complete 
somersault in the air, coming heavily down on his back. With 
regard to myself, I was, as a matter of course, violently precipi- 
tated to the ground. Whilst thus prostrated, I actually saw 



MR.OSWELL AND THE BLACK RHINOCEROS. 311 

the horn of the infuriated brute alongside of me ; but seem- 
ingly satisfied with his revenge, without attempting to do further 
mischief, he started off at a canter from the scene of action. 
My after-rider having by this -time come up, I rushed upon him, 
and, almost pulling him off the horse, leapt into the saddle, 
and, without a hat, and my face streaming with blood, was 
quickly in pursuit of the retreating beast, which I soon had the 
satisfaction to see stretched lifeless at my feet. 

" My friend, Captain Vardon, by whom I was accompanied 
on this journey, soon after joined me, and seeing my head and 
face covered with blood, at first imagined me to be mortally 
hurt or dying. However, with the exception of a blow on the 
skull, occasioned by the stirrup-iron, which laid my head open 
a few inches, I received no further injury. But the horse was 
killed on the spot." 

Again : — •' On another occasion, as I was bending my steps 
toward--; my camp on foot, I espied at no great distance two 
rhinoceroses of the species Keitloa. They were feeding, and 
slowly approaching me. I immediately couched and quietly 
waited their arrival ; but though they soon came 'within range, 
from their constantly facing me, I was unable to fire, well know- 
ing the uselessness of a shot at the head. In a short time, they 
had approached so close that, on account of the exposed nature 
of the ground, I could neither retreat nor advance, and my situ- 
ation became highly critical. I was afraid to fire ; for, even 
had I succeeded in killing one, the other would, in all likelihood, 
have run over and trampled me to death. In this dilemma, the 
thought struck me, that on account of their bad sight I might 
possibly save myself by trying to run past them. No time was 
to be lost ; and accordingly, just as the leading animal almost 
touched me, I stood up and dashed past it. The brute, how- 
ever was much too quick for me, and before I had made good 
many paces, I heard a violent snorting at my heels, and had 
only time to fire my gun at random into his head, when I felt 
myself impaled on his horn. 

" The shock stunned me completely. The first return to 
consciousness was, I recollect, finding myself seated on one of 
my ponies, and a Caffre leading it. I had an indistinct notion 
of having been hunting ; and, on observing the man, I asked 
quickly why he was not following the track of the animal, when 
he mumbled something to the effect that it was gone. 

" By accident I touched my right hip with my hand, and on 
withdrawing it, was astonished to find it clotted with blood. 
Yet my senses were still so confused, and the side so benumbed, 



312 A CROTCHET. 

that I actually kept feeling and working the wound with my 
fingers. Whilst trying to account for my strange position, I 
observed some of my men coming towards me with a cartel, and 
on asking them what they were about, they cried out that they 
had come to fetch my body, having been told that I was killed 
by some animal. The truth now, for the first time, broke upon 
me, and I was quickly made aware of my crippled condition. 
The wound I had received was of a very serious character, and, 
though it ultimately healed, it left scars behind which no doubt 
will remain to the day of my death." 

We are fond of the marvelous. It is generally received as a 
fact that the hide of the rhinoceros is impenetrable to a bullet, 
or even to an " iron ingot," as a certain writer quaintly ex- 
presses it. But this is just as idle a notion, as regards the 
African species at least, as that entertained respecting the 
softness and pliability of the animal's horns ; for a common 
leaden ball will find its way through the hide with the greatest 
facility. It is true one should be near the brute ; for, though 
I have known a rhinoceros killed at the distance of a hundred 
yards, it is an exception to the rule. Indeed, beyond thirty or 
forty paces one cannot make sure of the shot. Under all cir- 
cumstances, a double charge of powder is desirable. 

Though a common leaden ball may do the work well enough, 
I would not recommend it. The best metal is spelter, which 
has almost the hardness of iron, with all the weight of lead ; 
but it is often difficult to procure. For want of a better, two- 
thirds lead and one-third solder, answers the purpose very 
well. 

The most deadly part to aim at, is just behind the shoulder ; 
a ball through the center of the lobes of the lungs is certain to 
cause almost instantaneous death. From the very solid struc- 
ture of the head, the great thickness of the hide on that part, 
the position of the horns, the smallness of the brain, 1 a shot in 
the head rarely, or never, proves fatal. The same may be said 
of the breast. 

However severely wounded the rhinoceros may be, he seldom 
bleeds externally. This is attributable in part, no doubt, to the 
great thickness of the hide, and its elasticity, which occasions 
the hole caused by the bullet nearly to close up ; as also from 



1 Spamnan says that the cavity containing the brains of a rhinoceros that he 
shot was only six inches long, and four high, and of an oval shape. On being 
hilled with peas, it was found to hold barely one quart ; a human skull measured 
at the same time, did not require much less than three pints to fill it. 



HOW THE RHINOCEROS BLEEDS WHEN WOUNDED. 313 

the hide not being firmly attached to the body, but constantly 
moving. If the animal bleed at all, it is from the mouth and 
nostrils, which is a pretty sure sign that it is mortally stricken, 
and the chances are, it will be found dead within a short dis 
tance. 

The number of rhinoceroses destroyed annually in South 
Africa is very considerable. Of this, some idea may be formed, 
when I mention that Messrs. O swell and Vardon killed, in one 
year, no less than eighty-nine of these animals ; in my present 
journey, I, myself, shot, single-handed, nearly two-thirds of 
this number. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

DEPARTURE FROM GHANZE NECTAR IN THE DESERT DIFFICULTY IN FIND- 
ING WATER ARRIVE AT ABEGHAN UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE A " CHARM" 

HOW TO MAKE THE UNDRINKABLE DRINKABLE AN ELEPHANT WOUND- 
ED AND KILLED BOLD AND COURAGEOUS DOG KOBIS AUTHOR SEIZED 

WITH A SINGULAR MALADY MESSENGERS DISPATCHED TO THE CHIEF 

OF THE LAKE NGAMI A LARGE TROOP OF ELEPHANTS AUTHOR KILLS 

A HUGE MALE LIONS AND GIRAFFE AUTHOR' S HAIR-BREADTH ESCAPES '. 

FROM A BLACK RHINOCEROS ; FROM A WHITE RHINOCEROS ; FROM TWO 
TROOPS OF ELEPHANTS; HE SHOOTS A COUPLE OF HIS ADVERSARIES 
WHERE TO AIM AT AN ELEPHANT. 

Having enjoyed a good deal of shooting, and feasted our- 
selves and bushmen on rhinoceros' flesh to our hearts' content, 
we left Grhanze on the 23rd of June. The first portion of 
the country through which our road led was very thorny ; 
but the bush gradually opened, and we journeyed with more 
ease. 

In the early part of the day after our departure, I caused my 
horse to be saddled, and rode off to look for water. About 
noon, I reached a hollow of a similar nature as G-hanze, but on 
a smaller scale. I thought I perceived indications of the exist- 
ence of water; and, having " hobbled" the steed, went in search 
of it. The elephants, however, had so trampled the place that, 
though I could not doubt of water being there, I soon found 
that it was only to be had by a vast deal of labor. 

Whilst reflecting on what was best to do, whether to remain 
and clear out the pit, or to push on in hopes of finding another 
watering-place, I observed several small birds flying in and out 
at a small crevice in the limestone-rock. Running to the spot, 



NECTAR IN THE DESERT. 315 

I discovered a narrow, circular aperture, about two feet broad, 
and perhaps twice as much in depth, with something at the 
bottom reflecting light. Taking for granted that it was water 
which thus shone, and being tormented with thirst, I leapt into 
the hole, and greedily swallowed a large quantity. I was too 
eager to be able to distinguish its taste ; but, having somewhat 
slaked my burning thirst, my palate resumed its function, and 
I thought I had never experienced so abominable a flavor. 
Imagine my horror, when, taking a small portion in the hollow 
of my hand and holding it up to the light, I found I had been 
drinking blood, mixed with the refuse of some wild animal ! I 
shall never forget the loathing I felt on making this discovery ; 
and, though my stomach was presently relieved of its nauseous 
contents, I long retained a qualmish sensation. The mystery 
was, however, cleared up. On a more close examination of the 
aperture in question, it was found that a herd of zebras had, 
like myself, been looking for water, and in so doing, one of 
them had fallen in, and been found and killed by the bushmen. 
Hence the blood and offal of the unfortunate animal. 

As soon as the men arrived with the cattle, every person who 
could be spared was employed in cleaning out the hole where I 
had at first seen indications of water. Large fragments of rock, 
which the bulky forms of elephants and other gigantic animals 
had pushed into the cavity, were removed after immense exer- 
tions. Occasionally, in displacing a firmly-imbedded stone or 
piece of wood, the pure liquid would gush forth with great 
vigor, and we flattered ourselves that we had found the " eye" 
of a spring ; but the next instant all our hopes vanished. After 
eight or nine hours' hard work, our best endeavors to discover 
any steady supply of water proved abortive. The little we 
did obtain — sufficient for the horses and dogs — was of such 
questionable quality, that, thirsty as we were, it was with the 
utmost repugnance we could prevail on ourselves to swallow a 
few mouthfuls. . 

At break of day the next morning, we renewed our labors, 
but with no better success. I now became anxious for the safety 
of the cattle, which began to show symptoms of distress. Mount- 
ing my horse, and guided by two active bushmen, I rode briskly in 
the direction of the Lake, giving orders to my men to continue 
their exertions during the remainder of the day, but, should 
they not succeed in obtaining a sufficiency of drink for the cattle 
by the next morning, they were to follow on my tracks. 

I had ridden long. The sun had already sunk below the tree- 
tops, and yet no water. The bushmen, however, gave me to 



316 WATER DISCOVERED A CHARM. 

understand by signs that it was not far off, and the number of 
wild-beast-tracks gave weight to their assertion. At last, the 
noisy chattering of guinea-fowls, the cooing of doves, and 
the screams of paroquets, broke on my ear, and indicated a 
more favorable vicinity. Putting spurs to my horse, I struck 
into a large "game path," and just as the sun was sinking below 
the horizon, I came alongside a large sheet of clear water. I 
felt truly thankful, and only wanted my own people and cattle 
to complete my happiness. This place, according to my inter- 
preter, was called Abeghan. 

At dark, I tied up my horse some little distance from the 
water, cut him an ample supply of grass with my hunting knife, 
and, having struck a light for the bushmen, and given 
them, as a reward for their services, the piece of flesh we car- 
ried with us, I shouldered my rifle and proceeded to the foun- 
tain with a view of procuring something for the larder. It was 
a glorious night. The sky was dark, but studded with innu- 
merable twinkling stars reflected in the watery mirror below. For 
some fifty paces, the locality was tolerably free from bushes ; 
and on one side the prospect extended nearly a quarter of a 
mile through an avenue lined on either side with noble Damara 
" parent trees." Elsewhere the darkness was impenetrable. 
Silence, like that of the sepulchre, reigned in this remote soli- 
tude, relieved, at long intervals, by the hyaena and the jackal 
lapping the water, and the distant grunting of the rhinoceros. 
The latter, however, took care not to come within range of the 
rifle. 

At the return of daylight, having then been already twenty- 
four hours without food, I felt very hungry, and hastened back 
to the bushmen to see whether they had left any of the flesh I 
had given them, but I might as well have searched the dens of 
ravenous wolves as the lair of these starved " children of the 
desert." Indeed, they looked very crestfallen when I announced 
my bad luck. 

Fearing my men might possibly delay in following me, I 
wrote a few hurried lines in my note-book, and tearing out the 
leaf, handed it to one of the guides with the intimation that he 
must hasten back whence he came. But having never seen a 
piece of paper before, he received it at first with caution, and 
taking it between two of his fingers, began blowing on it, think- 
nig probably it was a kind of " charm" for better luck. Seeing me 
smile, he took courage and blew still harder. This was too 
much, and L burst into a roar of laughter, in which I was 
heartily joined by my tawny friend. However, after numerous 



HOW TO MAKE THE UNDRINKABLE DRINKABLE. 317 

signs and gestures, I made him comprehend my wishes, and off 
he started to meet the caravan. 

After another twelve hours' fasting and waiting, and just as 
it was getting dark, I had the satisfaction to see the whole 
party arrive safely. They had succeeded in procuring enough 
water for almost all the oxen. 

To guard against thirst by the way, the men had brought two 
wooden kegs of water from the last halting-place. Seeing Timbo 
about to take his fill from one of the vessels in question, I ob- 
served to him that there was surely no longer any necessity to 
partake of such villainous stuff. He nevertheless drank, 
exclaiming, "Master, the water is capital!" "Nonsense," I 
ejaculated skeptically, "you don't mean to say that that abomi- 
nable fluid is good." - "Well," he rejoined, "if master won't 
believe me, he better try it himself." Less from any faith in 
what he said, than from curiosity, I did taste it, and, truly 
enough, it was " capital." Even the smell had vanished. Every- 
body agreed in praising its excellence. I could not account 
for so great a marvel, but supposed that under the influence of 
the sun the water had undergone some chemical change. In 
the course of twelve hours, four gallons of turbid water had, 
without any apparent cause, been converted into a fluid as 
bright and sweet as was ever drawn from fresh spring. 

On leaving the pestiferous fountain, I intrusted young Bon- 
field with my watch, in order that he might ascertain the 
number of hours they were on the road. On again meeting the 
lad, he told me in a flurried manner that he thought there was 
something the matter with the "piece," as it would not go 
properly. The truth at once flashed across me. In winding it 
up, he had forcibly pushed it the wrong way, and thus made it 
useless. I cannot describe my feelings on ascertaining this 
fact. My chronometer, and another watch, had some time 
previously ceased to act. This was my last time-piece. I had 
no longer the means of going on with my observations. Lati- 
tudes I could still manage, but as for longitudes, the most im- 
portant, it was out of the question — at least, I thought so at the 
time. I had indulged in the hope of being able to settle the 
position of the Lake. 

I was totally unacquainted with the mechanism of a watch ; 
but necessity has no law, and, as a last chance, I determined to 
pull it to pieces, in order to ascertain the cause of its stopping. 
Twice I did so, and twice I successfully put it together, but 
it would not go properly. I dissected it a third time, but was 
even less fortunate than before, for the chain snapped in two 



318 COURAGEOUS DOG! ITS SAGACITY. 

places. Nothing daunted, however, I procured a very fine, 
well-dried gut, with which I tried to splice it ; but it is easy to 
imagine the result. I believe at that moment I would have 
freely given the best half of what I possessed in this world — 
and that, perhaps, after all, was not much — for a good strong 
watch. 

The second night after my arrival at Abeghan, and when lying 
in wait near the water for wild animals, I was surprised by 
three huge bull elephants, whose approach had been so silent 
that, before I was aware of their presence, they were within 
ten paces of me. I was ambushed in a very exposed place, but 
nevertheless stoutly held my ground, and, taking a steady aim 
at the foreleg of the leader, fired. As he wheeled about, I 
saluted him with the contents of the second barrel. He gave a 
loud shriek, and, curling up his trunk, trotted quickly away. 
The next day we followed many a weary mile on his track. 
He had separated from the rest, but we were unable to overtake 
him. Some time afterwards, however, I heard of his death. 
The bushmen brought the tusks. 

The same evening, I shot a couple of rhinoceroses. One of 
them, on receiving my ball, made a headlong charge, and was 
so close upon me that, to avoid actual contact, I threw myself 
backwards, and fell to the ground. He then ran a few hundred 
yards, when he came to a stand. At break of day, my men 
went on his trail. He had still strength enough to make a dash 
at them, and would probably have laid hold of some of them, 
had not a small bitch (half-terrier and half-bull dog), called 
" Venus" (in derision of her ugliness), caught the enraged ani- 
mal by the lower lip, where she stuck with such tenacity that 
the rhinoceros, with all his fury, was unable to shake her off. 
She only relinquished her hold when her huge antagonist was 
fairly laid prostrate by a ball. 

But the sagacity of this favorite dog was as great as her 
courage. Being now in a game country, all sorts of beasts of 
prey abounded, more especially jackals, which might be seen 
running about by dozens. In order not to frighten the ele- 
phants and other large animals, we were in the habit of 
encamping some little way from the water to which Miss 
" Venus" regularly resorted to bathe and drink. On perceiving 
a jackal, she instantly crouched, looking very timid. " Rey- 
nard," mistaking her posture as an indication of fear, and prob- 
ably thinking that, from her diminutive size, she would prove 
an easy conquest, boldly approached his supposed victim. But 
he had reckoned without mine host ; for the instant the cunning 



SINGULAR MALADY. 319 

dog found her antagonist sufficiently near, she leapt like a cat 
at his throat, and once there, the beast had no chance. She 
then returned to camp, where her contented looks and bloody 
jaws soon attracted the attention of the men, who immediately 
went on her track, and brought the jackal, who was valued on 
account of his fur. 

Having dried some of the flesh of the rhinoceroses, and given 
the rest to the hungry bushmen, who had already began to 
flock round us, we set out for Kobis, which we reached after 
less than two hours' journeying. This place, owing probably 
to heavy rains at no very distant period, was a magnificent sheet 
of water (a glorious sight to our thirsty imagination), swarm- 
ing with geese and ducks. From the number of well and 
freshly-trodden paths, we conjectured it to be the great strong- 
hold of game — nor were we disappointed. I, therefore, deter- 
mined to devote a few days here to shooting, and selected my 
camp with caution and to the best of my judgment. 

I had not been long settled in my new quarters, when some 
bushmen made their appearance, carrying bundles of reeds 
(intended as shafts for their arrows) which they had brought 
from the Lake Ngami, or " Tlannis," as they called it in their 
language. They had been five days on the road ; but said it 
might be reached in two. This was cheerful news. But I 
was nearly foiled in my plans on the threshold of the object of 
my ambition. 

Having, late one night, with much danger and difficulty, suc- 
ceeded in dispatching an enormously large white rhinoceros,! 
fell asleep towards morning, overpowered by the exertion and 
fatigue of several previous nights' watching. I was awakened 
by a smarting sensation a little below the left knee ; and when 
I reached my people, the pain had become intolerable. I was 
compelled to go to bed immediately. The next day the affect- 
ed part was much inflamed. The skin became so tender that I 
could not bear even the touch of my linen ; and when little 
G-eorge applied (though with the tenderest care) the lotion I 
had prescribed, I screamed with anguish. No position suited 
me. If I was compelled to change, which could only be 
effected by another person's assistance, the movement was ago- 
nizing. 

Apprehending that my illness might be of some duration, 
and knowing but too well the character of savages, I deemed 
it advisable to dispatch one or two of my men with a few 
trifling presents to Lecholetebe, the chief of the Bechuanas 
and the other people who inhabited the borders of the Lake 



320 JACKALS AND HYjENAS LAUGH AT AUTHOR. 

Ngami, to inform him of my arrival in his neighborhood and the 
motive of my journey. Timbo, and Piet the Griqua, were 
selected to carry out my wishes. 

Whilst anxiously awaiting their return, we once more ran 
short of flesh. I possessed a few sheep, it is true, but I was 
afraid to kill them, not knowing what the future had in store 
for me. 

I, therefore, dispersed my men over the surrounding country , 
but, though they met with game in abundance, from mis- 
management and bad shooting, they were unable to bag a sin- 
gle animal. 

One evening I desperately resolved to go to the water my- 
self in the hope of succeeding better. Accordingly I ordered 
my servants to prepare a " skarm," and to carry me there, 
taking the chance of being run over or gored by elephants or 
rhinoceroses; for in my disabled state, it was impossible, should 
any animal charge, to get out of its way. Seeing my help- 
less condition, the men remonstrated, but I was resolved to go, 
and fortune favored me. 

I had patiently waited till nigh morning without seeing any- 
thing but hyaenas and jackals. I believe these creatures knew 
I would not hurt them, for they approached within a very few 
paces, staring and laughing at me in the most impudent man- 
ner. I threw gravel-pebbles at them, but this only served to 
increase their mockery. I could stand it no longer, but hurled 
my camp-chair at their heads, when they quickly betook them- 
selves to flight. 

Scarcely had they made their exit, than I heard the heavy 
tramp of elephants. At this sound, my heart beat violently ; 
but it was only momentarily. The next instant, I recovered 
my self-possession. Pushing my gun gently over the "skarm," 
I quietly waited (without daring to think of my poor leg) the 
approach of the giants. Nearer and nearer they came ; their 
steps were more distinct and measured ; confused forms were 
seen advancing amongst the trees. Gradually they assumed 
shape ; and, lo ! suddenly a huge elephant stood out in bold 
relief against the sky line ; then another, and another ; till the 
ground became alive with their numbers. There must have 
been at least fifty. They hesitated for a moment, but then 
came swiftly on by a broad path, at right angles to, and within 
a dozen feet of, my place of concealment. I scarcely dared to 
breathe. The leader stood conspicuously forth from the rest, 
and, as a matter of couse, I selected him for a mark. Having 
allowed the huge creature to pass a few paces beyond me, so as 



AUTHOR SHOOTS AN ELEPHANT. 321 

to have an opportunity of a second shot, I gave a low whistle, 
which instantly arrested the attention of the brutes, who, par- 
tially raising their huge ears, and describing with their trunks 
eccentric circles though the air, seemed anxiously to inquire the 
cause of the strange noise. This was my opportunity ; and, in 
an instant, the forest resounded with the report of the gun. 
Curling up his trunk, the stricken animal uttered a faint cry, 
and, turning sharply round, staggered back whence he came. 
It was clear the wound he had received was mortal ; but to 
make more sure, I gave him the contents of my second barrel, 
though, apparent!}^, without effect. Having reached the skirts 
of the wood, he tottered, and plunging violently forward, came 
heavily to the ground. 

I had eagerly watched the scene ; and now, strange to relate, 
that the danger and excitement were over, I was seized with a 
violent tremor. After a time, however, when my nerves had 
become somewhat composed, I pushed down part of the inclo- 
sure, and. though crippled, crawled on all fours up to the car- 
cass. Having ascertained that life was extinct, I scrambled on 
to the back of the defunct elephant, where, like a schoolboy, I 
seated myself in triumph. 

By this time, the day began to dawn. Being within hearing 
of the camp, and feeling chilly, I shouted to my people to bring 
some fire. But, though I received no answer, I could distinctly 
hear them in earnest conversation, as if discussing some weighty 
matter. I shouted again and again, but with no better suc- 
cess. Being convinced they must have heard me, I was puz- 
zled and vexed at not receiving a reply. At last, after having 
waited fully a quarter of an hour, I observed a number of flick- 
ering lights — resembling so many will-o'-the wisps and soon 
afterwards I was joined by my men. The mystery of their 
unaccountable silence to me was presently explained. It 
appeared that on first hearing my shouts, which they took to 
be cries of distress, they were struck with fear and astonish- 
ment ; and, as the shouts proceeded from a rather different 
quarter to that where they had left me on the previous even- 
ing, they were led to suppose that some savage beast had car- 
ried me away. Their own loud talking, it seemed, had arisen 
in debating in what manner they could best assist me. I 
could not help saying to myself — " How brave and considerate !" 

There was now no want of flesh, and the result was great 
rejoicings. The report of my success spread like wild-fire, and 
the animal was scarcely cold before scores of hungry bush- 
men — like so many vultures — had assembled to participate in 
21 



522 LIONS AND aiRAFFE. 

the feast. Before noon, with the exception of the sternum, the 
head, and some of the larger bones, every vestige of the giant 
beast had disappeared. The way in which the bushmen gorge 
on the carcass of elephants is very disgusting ; and the process 
of cutting it up, in which they show no little method and dex- 
terity, is nearly equally so. 

Elephants, rhinoceroses, gnoos, zebras, etc., were now shot 
almost nightly. Giraffes were not very numerous in this neigh- 
borhood, but occasionally they made their appearance at the 
pool, when I managed to get a shot. 1 

Late one evening, in another part of the country, I had 
badly wounded a lion, and at an early hour on the succeeding 
morning was following the bloody tracks of the beast, in the 
hope of putting an end to his career. Presently, we came upon 
the " spoor" of a whole troop of lions, as also that of a solitary 
giraffe. So many tracks confused us ; and whilst endeavor- 
ing to pick out from the rest those of the wounded lion, I 
observed my native attendants suddenly rush forward, and the 
next instant the jungle re-echoed with shouts of triumph. 
Thinking they had discovered the lion we were in pursuit of, I 
also hurried forward ; but imagine my surprise, when emerg- 
ing into an opening in the jungle, I saw, not a dead lion, as I 
expected, but five living lions (two males and three females), 
two of whom were in the act of pulling down a splendid 
giraffe, the other three watching, close at hand, and with 
devouring looks, the deadly strife. The beautiful illustration 
facing the title-page of this volume is an exact representation 
of this most interesting incident. 

The scene was of so imposing a nature that, for the 
moment, I forgot I carried a gun. The natives, however, in 
anticipation of a " glorious gorge," dashed madly forward, and, 
with the most piercing shrieks and yells, compelled the lions to 
beat a hasty retreat. 

When I reached the giraffe, now stretched at full length on 
the sand, it made a few ineffectual attempts to raise its neck ; 
its body heaved and quivered for a moment, and the next instant 
the poor animal was dead. It had received several deep gashes 
about the flanks and chest, caused by the claws and teeth of its 
fierce assailants. The strong and tough muscles of the neck 
were also bitten through. 

1 It was my intention to introduce at length the history of this animal ; but 
being (as already alluded to in a preceding chapter) confined as to space, I must, 
though reluctantly, abandon the idea. 






*■ 




author's hair-breadth escapes. 325 

All thought of pursuing the wounded lion was now out of 
the question. The natives remained gorging on the carcass of 
the cameleopard until it was devoured. A day or two after- 
wards, however, I had the good fortune to fall in with my 
royal antagonist, and finished him without much difficulty. 

At Kobis and the neighborhood, I enjoyed shooting to per- 
fection. 1 But I had many hair-breadth escapes from elephants 
and rhinoceroses. 

One fine moonlight night, when snugly ensconced in my 
" skarm," and contemplating the strange, but picturesque 
scene before me, my reverie was interrupted by the inharmo- 
nious grunting of a black rhinoceros. He was evidently in bad 
humor, for, as he emerged from amongst the trees into more 
open ground, I observed him madly charging anything and 
everything that he encountered, such as bushes, stones, etc. 
Even the whitened skulls and skeletons of his own species, 
lying scattered about on the ground, were attacked with incon- 
ceivable fury. I was much amused at his eccentric pastime ; 
but, owing to the openness of the ground, and the quantity of 
the limestone thereabouts, which made objects more distinct, 
he was not easy of approach. However, after divesting myself of 
my shoes, and all the more conspicuous parts of my dress, I man- 
aged to crawl — pushing my gun before me — to within a short 
distance of the snorting beast. As he was advancing in a direct 
line towards me, I did not like to fire, because one has little 
chance of killing the rhinoceros when in that position. Hav- 

1 The accompanying plate represents one of those numerous and exciting scenes 
that I have witnessed at night, at the water, when lying in ambush for game. 
There is one fact — a fact that has hitherto escaped the attention of the African 
sportsman — connected with this illustration that makes it particularly interest- 
ing, and which induced me to designate it " The Approach of Elephants." The 
animals are just appearing above the distant hill. If the spring or pool, as the 
case may be, be of small extent, all the animals present will invariably retire from 
the water as soon as they are aware of the presence of the elephants, of whom they 
appear to have an instinctive dread, and will remain at a respectful distance until 
the giants have quenched their thirst. Thus, long before I have seen, or even 
heard, the elephants, I have been warned of their approach by the symptoms of 
uneasiness displayed by such animals as happened to be drinking at the time. 
The giraffe, for instance, begins to sway his long neck to and fro ; the zebra utters 
subdued, plaintive cries ; the gnoo glides away with a noiseless step ; and even 
the ponderous and quarrelsome black rhinoceros, when he has time for reflection, 
will pull up short in his walk to listen ; then, turning round, he listens again, and, 
if he feel satisfied that his suspicions are correct, he invariably makes off, usually 
giving vent to his fear or ire by one of his vicious and peculiar snorts. Once, it 
is true, I saw a rhinoceros drinking together with a herd of seven male ele- 
phants ; but then he was of the white species, and, besides, I do not believe that 
either party knew of each other's proximity. 



326 ESCAPE FROM A TROOP OF ELEPHANTS. 

ing approached to within a few feet of me, his attention was 
attracted, and suddenly uttering one of those strange " blow- 
ing" noises, so peculiar to the beast when alarmed or enraged, 
be prepared to treat me in a similar manner to the stones and 
skulls he had just so unceremoniously tossed about. Not a 
moment was to be lost; and, in self-defense, I fired at his 
head. I shall never forget the confusion of the animal on receiv- 
ing the contents of my gun. Springing nearly perpendicularly 
into the air, and to the height of many feet, he came down again 
with a thump that seemed to make the earth tremble — then 
plunging violently forward (in doing which, he all but trampled 
on me), he ran round and round the spot for fully five minutes, 
enveloping every object in a cloud of dust. At last he dashed 
into the wood and was hidden from view. Not finding blood 
on his tracks, I had no reason to suppose he was much hurt. 
My notion is, the bullet struck his horn, partially stunning 
him with its jarring violence. Had my gun missed fire when 
he charged, it is more than probable I should have been im 
paled. 

Again : having on a certain night stalked to within a few 
paces of a huge white rhinoceros (a female as it proved), I put 
u ball in her shoulder; but it nearly cost me dear; for, guided 
by the flash of the gun, she rushed upon me with such fury that 
I had only time to throw myself on my back, in which position 
I remained motionless. This saved my life, for, not observing 
me, she came to a sudden halt just as her feet were about to 
crush my body. She was so near to me that I felt the saliva from 
her mouth trickle on my face ! I was in an agony of suspense, 
though, happily, only for a moment ; for, having impatiently 
sniffed the air, she wheeled about, and made off at her utmost 
speed. I then saw, for the first time, that her calf was in com- 
pany, and at once recognized the pair as an old acquaintance, 
and as specially vicious animals. 

On another occasion, when the night was very dark, I crept 
to within a short distance of seven bull-elephants, and was en- 
deavoring to pick out the largest, when I was startled by a 
peculiar rumbling noise close behind me. Springing to my feet 
I perceived, to my surprise and alarm, a semi-circle of female 
elephants, with their calves, bearing down upon me. My posi- 
tion was critical, being between two fires, so to say, and I had 
no other choice than either to plunge into the pool, which could 
only be crossed by swimming, in the face of the male elephants, 
or to break through the ranks of the females. I adopted the 
latter alternative, but first fired at the nearest of the seven bulls ; 



WHERE TO AIM AT AN ELEPHANT. 327 

and then, and without a moment's delay, I rushed on the more 
open rank of the female phalanx, uttering, at the time, loud 
shouts. My cries caused a momentary panic amongst the animals, 
of which I took advantage, and slipped out between them, dis- 
charging my second barrel into the shoulder of the nearest as I 
passed her. No sooner, however, had I effected my escape, 
than the whole herd made a simultaneous rush at me, and 
trumpeted so shrilly as to cause every man at the camp, as I 
learnt afterwards, to start out of his sleep. Fortunately, the 
darkness prevented the beasts from following me ; and, the 
jungle being close by, I was soon in safety. In my precipitate 
flight, however, I severely lacerated my feet ; for, when stalking 
the elephants, I had taken off my shoes, that I might the better 
steal upon them. 

When, after a while, I ventured out of my place of conceal- 
ment, I found everything quiet: only one solitary elephant re- 
mained. Having approached w T ithin a short distance, I could 
distinctly see him laving water on to his sides with his trunk. I 
immediately suspected he belonged to the troop of seven hulls, 
and was the one that I had fired at. Seating myself right across 
his path, I quietly watched his proceedings. After a time I saw 
him, as I thought, moving off in an opposite direction. But I 
was mistaken ; for in another instant his towering form loomed 
above me. It was too late to get out of his way ; so, quickly 
raising myself on one knee, I took a steady aim at his fore leg. 
On receiving the ball, he uttered the most plaintive cries, and 
rushing past me, soon disappeared in the neighboring forest. 
The next afternoon he was discovered dead within rifle-shot of 
the water. It had been a very successful night ; for a fine 
female elephant had also fallen to my other shot. 1 

1 I lost many noble beasts from the small calibre of my guns, which did not 
carry more than fourteen and seventeen balls respectively to the pound. This 
was more especially the case as regarded the elephants : and it was not until 
after a time, and when they had become scarce and shy, that I found out the way 
of bringing them down with any certainty at one or two shots. I found the best 
part to aim at (when shooting by night) was the shoulder, either behind or in the 
centre, near to the lower edge of the ear. Another good point, provided the gun 
be of large calibre, is to fire at the leg, which once broken, the animal, in almost 
every instance, is completely at the mercy of the hunter. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

TIMBO'S RETURN FROM THE LAKE ; HIS LOGIC ; HE TAKES THE LAW IN 

HIS OWN HANDS CALF OF AUTHOR'S LEG GOES ASTRAY A TROOP 

OF ELEPHANTS AUTHOR IS CHARGED BY ONE OF THEM, AND NAR- 
ROWLY ESCAPES DEATH HE SHOOTS A WHITE RHINOCEROS HE DIS- 
ABLES A BLACK RHINOCEROS HE IS CHARGED AND DESPERATELY BRUISED 

AND WOUNDED BY THE LATTER HE SAVES THE LIFE OF HIS ATTEND- 
ANT, KAMAPYU AUTHOR AGAIN CHARGED BY THE RHINOCEROS, AND 

ESCAPES DESTRUCTION ONLY BY THE OPPORTUNE DEATH OF HIS AN- 
TAGONIST REFLECTIONS HE STARTS FOR THE NGAMI. 

After about a week's absence, Timbo returned. I learned 
from him that, previously to his arrival at the Ngami, Lecho- 
letebe, the chief, had not, contrary to my expectations, been 
made aware of my approach. ; and the sudden appearance of 
strangers, therefore, created no small degree of surprise and 
consternation both to him and his people, who fled precipitately 
with their flocks. 

Many years before, when my friends, the Damaras, extended 
their migrations to the neighborhood of the Lake in question, 
the Bechuanas were in the habit of robbing them of their cattle. 
" How does it happen" — said Lecholetebe to Timbo — " that the 
Damaras are your servants ? They are a mighty nation, rich in 
cattle, which I know well, because my father fought many a 
bloody battle with them. We invariably came off victorious, 
though often at the cost of numbers of our warriors, who were 
slain by the broad assegai of the Damaras. All is not right ! 
Is your master richer than they ?" 

To this query Timbo logically replied, " No ! my master no 
rich ; master very poor; but master has something, and Damaras 
nothing; therefore, master more rich than Damaras." 



CALF AND SHIN-BONE CHANGE PLACES. 320 

Timbo then explained the way in which that tribe had been 
impoverished and nearly exterminated, as also the motives of 
our journey. On hearing all this, the apprehensions of the 
chief gradually subsided, and he became more communicative 
and friendly, urging Timbo to return to me without delay, and 
hurry on my departure, being anxious, as he said, for my arrival ; 
he, moreover, hinted that he would forthwith send men to meet 
and assist us in our progress. But here ended his courtesy; for, 
subsequently, he allowed our party, whilst at his town, all but 
to starve. It seems a characteristic of black chieftains to be 
avaricious. 

Previously to reaching Lecholetebe's residence, it was neces- 
sary to cross the Zouga, his town having been removed to the 
north side of the river, from fear, as it is said, of Sekorno, another 
Bechuana chieftain. When Timbo and his party were on their 
return to me, the natives refused to ferry them over the river 
without payment. " Me have no money," said Timbo ; " but 
me soon make CafFres do it for nothing : me say, ' So you will 
not row me across !' And with that me lay hold of big stick, 
and me pitch into the rascals. Oh, master, such fun ! me now 
get plenty of boats." " But were you not afraid of resorting 
to such severe measures ?" I inquired. " Me frightened," lie 
exclaimed ; " no, me flog natives very well ; it do them plenty 
good ; the fellows too lazy to do work." 

I now resolved to lose no more time, but to push on at once 
to the Lake. My leg had in some degree recovered its strength ; 
but, unobserved by me, it .had received a somewhat ugly twist. 
Little George first drew my attention to the fact : " Sir," said 
he, " your leg has grown crooked." 

" Crooked !" echoed I, somewhat angrily. " What do you 
mean ?" 

" Only," he wickedly replied, " the calf is nearly where the 
shin ought to be." 

The boy's remark was not without foundation ; but in time 
the leg assumed its proper shape. 

Notwithstanding my anxious desire to reach the Ngami — the 
goal of my wishes — I determined, before finally leaving Kobis, 
to devote one more day, or rather night, to the destruction of 
the denizens of the forest. But the adventure nearly terminated 
fatally ; and the night of the 15th of July will ever be remem- 
bered by me as one of the most eventful epochs of my life ; for, 
in the course of it, I was three several times in the very jaws 
of death, and only escaped destruction by a miracle. 

From the constant persecution to which the larger game had 



330 ELEPHANTS APPROACHING. 

of late been subjected at Kobis, it had become not only scarce, 
but wary ; and hearing that elephants and rhinoceroses still 
continued to resort to Abeghan, I forthwith proceeded there on 
the night in question. Somewhat incautiously, I took up my 
position — alone, as usual — on a narrow neck of land dividing 
two small pools ; the space on either side of my " skarm" being 
only sufficient for a large animal to stand between me and the 
water. I was provided with a blanket, and two or three spare 
guns. 

It was one of those magnificent tropical moonlight nights, 
when an indescribably soft and enchanting light is shed over 
the slumbering landscape; the moon was so bright and clear 
that I could discern even a small animal at a considerable dis- 
tance. 

I had just completed my arrangements, when a noise, that I 
can liken only to the passage of a train of artillery, broke the 
stillness of the air: it evidently came from the direction of one 
of the numerous stony paths, or rather tracks, leading to the 
water, and 1 imagined it was caused by some wagons that might 
have crossed the Kalahari. Raising myself partially from my 
recumbent posture, I fixed my eyes steadily on the part of the 
bush whence the strange sounds proceeded ; but for some time 
I was unable to make out the cause. All at once, however, the 
mystery was explained by the appearance of an immense ele- 
phant, immediately followed by others, amounting to eighteen. 
Their towering forms told me at a glance that they were all 
males. It was a splendid sight to behold so many huge crea- 
tures approaching with a free, sweeping, unsuspecting, and 
stately step. The somewhat elevated ground whence they 
emerged, and which gradually sloped towards the water, to- 
gether with the misty night-air, gave an increased appearance 
of bulk and mightiness to their naturally giant structures. 

Crouching down as low as possible in the " skarm," I waited 
with beating heart and ready rifle the approach of the leading 
male, who, unconscious of peril, was making straight for my 
hiding-place. The position of his body, however, was unfavor- 
able for a shot; and, knowing from experience that I had little 
chance of obtaining more than a single good one, I waited for 
an opportunity to fire at his shoulder, which, as before said, is 
preferable to any other part when shooting at night. But this 
chance, unfortunately, was not afforded till his enormous bulk 
towered above my head. The consequence was, that, while in 
the act of raising the muzzle of my rifle over the " skarm," my 
body caught his eye, and, before I could place the piece to my 



AUTHOR ESCAPES DEATH BY A MIRACLE. 333 

shoulder, he swung himself round, and, with trunk elevated and 
ears spread, desperately charged me. It was now too late to 
think of flight, much less of slaying the savage beast. My own 
life was in imminent jeopardy ; and seeing that, if I remained 
partially erect, he would inevitably seize me with his proboscis, 
I threw myself on my back with some violence ; in which posi- 
tion, and without shouldering the rifle, I fired upwards at ran- 
dom towards his chest, uttering, at the same time, the most 
piercing shouts and cries. The change of position, in all human 
probability, saved my life; for, at the same instant, the trunk of 
the enraged animal descended precisely on the spot where I had 
been previously crouched, sweeping away the stones (many of 
a large size) thafc formed the fore part of my " skarm,'' like so 
many pebbles. In another moment his broad fore-feet passed 
directly over my face. 

I now expected nothing short of being crushed to death. 
But imagine my relief, when, instead of renewing the charge, 
he swerved to the left, and moved off with considerable rapid- 
ity — most happily without my having received other injuries 
than a few bruises, occasioned by the falling of the stones. 
Under Providence, I attribute my extraordinary escape to the 
confusion of the animal caused by the wound I had inflicted on 
him, and to the cries elicited from me when in my utmost 
need. 

Immediately after the elephant had left me I was on my legs, 
and, snatching up a spare rifle lying at hand, I pointed at him, 
as he was retreating, and pulled the trigger ; but, to my intense 
mortification, the piece missed fire.. It was matter of thankful- 
ness to me, however, that a similar mishap had not occurred 
when the animal charged ; for, had my gun not then exploded, 
nothing, as I conceive, could have saved me from destruction. 

During this incident, the rest of the elephants retreated into 
the bush; but, by the time I had repaired my " skarm," they 
reappeared with stealthy and cautious steps on the opposite 
side of the pool, though so distant that I could not fire with any 
prospect of success. As they did not approach nearer, I at- 
tempted to stalk them, but they would not allow me to come 
to close quarters ; and after a while moved off altogether. 

Whilst pondering over my late wonderful escape, I observed, 
at a little distance, a huge white rhinoceros protrude his ponder- 
ous and misshapen head through the bushes, and presently 
afterwards he approached to within a dozen paces of my ambus- 
cade. His broadside was then fully exposed to view, and, not- 
withstanding I still felt a little nervous from my conflict with the 



334 WOUNDED BY A BLACK RHINOCEROS. 

elephant, I lost no time in firing. The beast did not at once 
fall to the ground, but from appearances I had every reason to 
believe he would not live long. 

Scarcely had I reloaded when a black rhinoceros of the species 
Keitloa (a female, as it proved) stood drinking at the water; 
but her position, as with the elephant in the first instance, was 
unfavorable for a good shot. As, however, she was very near 
me, I thought I was pretty sure of breaking her leg and thereby 
disabling her; and in this I succeeded. My fire seemed to 
madden her : she rushed wildly forward on three legs, when I 
gave her a second shot, though apparently with little or no 
effect. I felt sorry at not being able to end her sufferings at 
once ; but as I was too well acquainted with the habits of the 
rhinoceros to venture on pursuing her under the circumstances, 
T determined to wait patiently for daylight, and then destroy 
her with the aid of my dogs. But it was not to be. 

As no more elephants or other large game appeared, I thought 
after a time it might be as well to go in search of the white 
rhinoceros, previously wounded ; and I was not long in finding 
his carcass; for my ball, as I supposed, had caused his almost 
immediate death. 

In heading back to my " skarm," I accidently took a turn in 
the direction pursued by the black rhinoceros, and by ill luck, 
as the event proved, at once encountered her. She was still 
on her legs, but her position, as before, was unfavorable. 
Hoping, however, to make her change it for a better, and thus 
enable me to destroy her at once, I took up a stone and hurled 
it at her with all my force ; when, snorting horribly erecting 
her tail, keeping her head close to the ground, and raising 
clouds of dust by her feet, she rushed at me with fearful fury. 
I had only just time to level my rifle and fire before she was 
upon me ; and the next instant, while instinctively turning round 
for the purpose of retreating, she laid me prostrate. The shock 
was so violent as to send my rifle, powder-flask, and ball-pouch, 
as also my cap, spinning in the air ; the gun, indeed, as after- 
wards ascertained, to a distance of fully ten feet. On the beast 
charging me, it crossed my mind that, unless gored at once by 
her horn, her impetus would be such (after knocking me down, 
which I took for granted would be the case) as to carry her be- 
yond me, and I might thus be afforded a chance of escape. So, 
indeed, it happened; for, having tumbled me over (in doing 
which her head, and the fore-part of her body, owing to the vio- 
lence of the charge, was half buried in the sand), and trampled 
on me with great violence, her fore-quarter passed over my 



NATURE OF THE WOUNDS. 337 

body. Struggling for life, I seized my opportunity, and as she 
was recovering herself for a renewal of the charge, I scrambled 
out from between her hind legs. 

But the enraged beast had not yet done with me ! Scarcely 
had I regained my feet before, she struck me down a second 
time, and with her horn ripped up my right thigh (though not very 
deeply) from near the knee to the hip : with her fore-teet, more- 
over, she hit me a terrific blow on the left shoulder near the 
back of the neck. My ribs bent under the enormous weight 
and pressure, and for a moment, I must, as I believe, have lost 
consciousness — I have at least very indistinct notions of what 
afterwards took place. All I remember is, that when I raised 
my head, I heard a furious snorting and plunging amongst the 
neighboring bushes. I now arose, though with great diffi- 
culty, and made my way, in the best manner I was able, 
towards a large tree near at hand, for shelter; but this precau- 
tion was needless ; the beast, for the time at least, showed no 
inclination further to molest me. Either in the melee, or owing 
to the confusion caused by her wounds, she had lost sight of me, 
or she felt satisfied with the revenge she had taken. Be that as 
it ma.j, I escaped with life, though sadly wounded and severely 
bruised, in which disabled state I had great difficulty in getting 
back to my " skarm." 

During the greater part of the conflict I preserved my 
presence of mind ; but after the danger was over, and when I 
had leisure to collect my scattered and confused senses, I was 
seized with a nervous affection, causing a violent trembling. I 
have since killed many rhinoceroses, as well for sport as food ; 
but several weeks elapsed before I could again attack those 
animals with any coolness. 

About sunrise, Kamapyu, my half-caste boy, whom I had 
left on the preceding evening, about half a mile away, came to 
the " skarm" to convey my guns and other things to our en- 
campment. In a few words, I related to him the mishap that 
had befallen me. He listened with seeming incredulity ; but 
the sight of my gashed thigh soon convinced him I was not in 
joke. 

I afterwards directed him to take one of the guns and pro- 
ceed in search of the wounded rhinoceros, cautioning him to be 
careful in approaching the beast, which I had reason to believe 
was not yet dead. He had only been absent a few minutes, 
when I heard a cry of distress. Striking my hand against my 
forehead, I exclaimed — " £k>od God! the brute has attacked the 
lad, also !" 
22 



338 AUTHOR SAVES KAMAPYTj's LIFE. 

Seizing hold of my rifle, I scrambled through the bushes as 
fast as my crippled condition would permit; and, when I had 
proceeded two or three hundred yards, a scene suddenly pre- 
sented itself that I shall vividly remember to the last days of my 
existence. Amongst some bushes, and within a couple of yards 
of each other, stood the rhinoceros and the young savage ; the for- 
mer supporting herself on three legs, covered with blood and 
froth, and snorting in the most furious manner; the latter petri- 
fied with fear — spell-bound, as it were — and riveted to the spot. 
Creeping, therefore, to the side of the rhinoceros, opposite to 
that on which the boy was standing, so as to draw her attention 
from him, I leveled and fired, on which the beast charged wildly 
to and fro without any distinct object. Whilst she was thus 
occupied, I poured in shot after shot, but thought she would 
never fall. At length, however, she sank slowly to the ground ; 
and, imagining that she was in her death agonies, and that all 
danger was over, I walked unhesitatingly close up to her, and 
was on the point of placing the muzzle of my gun to her ear 
to give her the coup de grace, when, to my horror, she once more 
rose on her legs. Taking a hurried aim, I pulled the trigger, 
and instantly retreated, with the beast in full pursuit. The 
race, however, was a short one ; for, just as I threw myself into 
a bush for safety, she fell dead at my feet, so near me, indeed, 
that I could have touched her with the muzzle of my rifle ! 
Another moment and I should probably have been impaled on 
her murderous horn, which, though short, was sharp as a 
razor. 1 

When reflecting on the wonderful and providential escapes I 
recently experienced, I could not help thinking that I had been 
spared for some good purpose, and my heart was lifted in hum- 
ble gratitude to the Almighty who had thus extended over me 
His protecting hand. 

The second day after the scenes described, my bruises began 
to show themselves ; and on the third day they were fully de- 
veloped, giving my body a black and yellow hue. So far as I 
was aware, none of my bones were broken ; but burning and 
agonizing pains in the region of the chest were clearly symp- 

1 The black rhinoceros is, under all circumstances, as already mentioned, a 
morose aud sulky beast. The one in question was unusually savage, as she had 
probably a young sucking calf. We did not see the latter, it is true, but as- 
sumed such to be the case from the beast's teats being full of milk. It is most 
likely that her offspring was of too tender an age to accompany her, and that, as 
not uufrequently happens, she concealed it amongst the bushes when about to 
quench her thirst at the pool. 



REFLECTIONS. 339 

toraatic of severe internal injury. Indeed, at first, serious ap- 
prehensions were entertained for my life. After great suffering, 
however, I recovered ; and, as ray shooting mania had by this 
time somewhat cooled down, my whole thoughts were bent on 
seeing the Ngami. Though my frame was quite unequal to 
bear fatigue, my spirit would not brook longer delay. 

With the assistance of my men, I therefore mounted my 
steed, on the 23rd of July, and was off for the Lake, leaving my 
hunting spoils, and other effects, under the care of the Bushman- 
chief at Kobis. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

START FROM KOBIS MEET BECHUANAS FALSE REPORT WONDERFUL RACE 

OF MEN THE BAOBOB TREE THE NGAMI FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE 

LAKE REFLECTIONS EXPERIENCE SOME DISAPPOINTMENT REACH THE 

ZOUGA RIVER AND ENCAMP NEAR IT INTERVIEW WITH CHIEF LECHOLE- 

TEBE INFORMATION REFUSED IMMODERATE LAUGHTER PRESENTS TO 

THE CHIEF HIS COVETOUSNESS HIS CRUELTY FORMIDABLE DIFFICUL- 
TIES AUTHOR PERMITTED TO PROCEED NORTHWARDS. 

Our first day's march from Kobis lay through an exceedingly 
dense "wait-a-bit" thorn-coppice, crossed in every direction by 
numerous paths of rhinoceroses and elephants. The soil con- 
sisted of soft and yielding sand, which made traveling very fa- 
tiguing. The second day, at an early hour, we arrived at a fine 
vley of water, where I was met by a number of Bechuanas 
(amongst whom were some of the leading men of the tribe), 
waiting to conduct me to Lecholetebe, who had given them 
orders to render me any assistance I might require. Whether 
this was from courtesy, or to serve his own purposes, I am un- 
certain ; though, from what I afterwards saw of the chief, I am 
inclined to think it was entirely from selfish motives. 

The men in question belonged to a tribe called Batoana, re- 
siding on the shores of the Lake Ngami. They were remark- 
ably fine-looking fellows, stout and well built, with Caffre fea- 
tures, and longish hair. Their appearance, indeed, was not 
unlike that of the Damaras. One and all were armed with a 
shield (oblong in form, and made of a single fold of ox-hide), and a 
bundle of assegais of various descriptions, each provided with 
several barbs. What with these formidable weapons, and their 



BECHUANAS. 341 

martial bearing, the aspect of these savages was imposing and 
warlike. They wore few or no ornaments. 

By a liberal supply of tobacco and flesh, we soon became 
excellent friends ; but all my endeavors to elicit information 
about the country were fruitless. They merely shrugged theii 
shoulders, urging as an excuse, their ignorance of such matters ; 
they said, however, that their chief would, no doubt, satisfy my 
curiosity on these points. 

We bivouacked at the vley, where a great number of bush- 
men — friends and relatives of those at Kobis — also happened to 
be encamped. Just as I had retired to rest, and whilst watch- 
ing with interest the animated features and gestures of our new 
friends, the Bechuanas, who, by a glorious fire, were regaling 
themselves with the pipe and the " flesh-pots," Bonfield came 
running up to me in great haste, saying: — "Please, sir, the 
bushmen tell us that Sebetoane, having heard of our coming, 
had sent a message to Lecholetebe with orders to dispatch peo- 
ple to waylay and kill us, and that these were the very indi- 
viduals to whom the task was intrusted !" 

Being myself by this time pretty well used to similarly ab- 
surd and unfounded stories, and knowing that I had nothing to 
fear, I took no notice of the communication, but again returned 
with as much unconcern as if it had been a civilized country. 
This, however, was far from the case with my men ; for the fol- 
lowing morning I learnt that their anxiety had kept them awake 
during the greater part of the night, and that some had actually 
packed up their things, intending to steal away secretly. 

The next morning proved the groundlessness of the report. 

The bushmen, we found, had fabricated the story as a means 
of prolonging my stay amongst them, in the anticipation of ob- 
taining an occasional gorge from the spoils of the chase. The 
low cunning of this people is only equaled by their credulity. 
To them, no tales can be too ridiculous and absurd for belief. 
For instance, my bushmen guides amused me by relating one 
evening that a tribe of black people had just taken up their 
abode a little in advance of us, " whose stomachs rested on their 
knees, and whose whole aspect was of the most unnatural and 
ferocious character." 

About noon on the same day we were again en route. Instead 
of feeling our way by the zig-zag tracks made by rhinoceroses 
and other wild beasts, our guides now took us a straight cut 
across the country, which was densely wooded. 

The " wait-a-bit" thorns were extremely harassing, tearing to 
ribbons our clothes, carosses, and even pack-saddle bags, made of 



342 FIRST VIEW OF THE LAKE. 

strong ox-hide. Notwithstanding the wooded character of the 
country, it affords excellent pasturage ; and the numerous old 
wells and pits, found between Tunobis and the Ngami, clearty 
indicate that these regions have, at no very remote period, been 
largely resorted to by some pastoral people. 

I hoped to reach the Lake by the evening ; but sunset found 
us still at a distance from the object of our enterprise. We 
encamped in a dense brake, near to which were several gigantic 
baobob 1 trees, the first we had seen ; the stems of some we 
judged to be from forty to sixty feet in circumference. Find- 
ing abundance of fuel, the wood was soon illumined by numerous 
watch-fires, around which, besides my own party, were grouped 
many a merry and laughing savage, each with his shield planted 
as a guard behind him. Altogether, the scene was striking and 
picturesque. 

The return of dajdight found us again on the move. The 
morning being cool and pleasant, and our goal near, the whole 
party was in high spirits, and we proceeded cheerily on our road. 
I myself kept well a-head in hope of obtaining the first glimpse 
of Ngami. The country hereabout was finely undulated ; and 
in every distant vale with a defined border I thought I saw a 
lake. At last, a blue line of great extent appeared in the dis- 
tance, and I made sure it was the long-sought object; but I was 
still doomed to disappointment. It turned out to be merely a 
large hollow, in the rainy season filled with water, but now dry 
and covered by saline incrustations. Several valleys, separated 
from each other by ridges of sand, bearing a rank vegetation, 
were afterwards crossed. On reaching the top of one of these 
ridges, the natives, who were in advance of our party, suddenly 
came to a halt, and, pointing straight before them, exclaimed— 
"Ngami ! Ngami !" In an instant I was with the men. There, 
indeed, at no very great distance, lay spread before me an im- 
mense sheet of water, only bounded by the horizon — the object of 
my ambition for years, and for which I had abandoned home 
and friends, and risked my life. 

The first sensation occasioned by this sight was very curious. 



1 '• The baobob," says Mr. Livingstone, " the body of which gives one the idea of 
a mass of granite, from its enormous size, yields a fruit about the size of a quart 
bottle ; the pulp between the seeds tastes like cream of tartar, and it is used by 
the natives to give a flavor to their porridge." Mr. Green writes me that plants 
have been raised in England of the baobob, from seeds brought home by his son, 
Frederick Green, who is at present treading in my tracks in the interior of South- 
western Africa. For further details of the baobob, see " Saturday Magazine" 
for the year 1832. 



REACH NGAM I R EFLECTIONS. 343 

Long as I had been prepared for the event, it now almost over- 
whelmed me. It was a mixture of pleasure and pain. My 
temples throbbed, and my heart beat so violently, that I was 
obliged to dismount, and lean against a tree for support, until 
the excitement had subsided. The reader will no doubt think 
that thus giving way to my feelings was very childish ; but 
"those who know that the first glimpse of some great object, 
which we have read or dreamt of from earliest recollection, is 
ever a moment of intensest enjoyment, will forgive the trans- 
port." I felt unfeignedly thankful for the unbounded goodness 
and gracious assistance which I had experienced from Provi- 
dence, throughout the whole of this prolonged and perilous 
journey. My trials had been many; but, my dearest aspirations 
being attained, the difficulties were all forgotten. And here I 
could not avoid passing my previous life in review. I had pene- 
trated into deserts almost unknown to civilized man — had suffer- 
ed the extremity of hunger and thirst, cold and heat — and had 
undergone desperate toil, sometimes nearly in solitude, and often 
without shelter during dreary nights in vast wildernesses, haunt- 
ed by beasts of prey. My companions were mostly savages. 
I was exposed to numerous perils by land and by water, and 
endured torments from wounds inflicted by wild animals. But, 
I was mercifully preserved by the Creator through the manifold 
dangers that hovered round my path. To Him are due all 
homage, thanksgiving and adoration. 

After feasting my eyes for a while on the interesting scene 
before me, we descended from the higher ground towards the 
Lake, which we reached in about an hour and a half. But, 
though we breathed a fresher atmosphere, no perfumed or balmy 
scents, as might have been anticipated on the borders of a tropic- 
al lake, were wafted on the breeze. 

Whether my expectations had been raised to too high a pitch, 
or that the grandeur of this inland sea, and the luxuriance of the 
surrounding vegetation, had been somewhat exaggerated by 
travelers, I must confess that, on a closer inspection, I felt rather 
disappointed. In saying this, I must admit having visited it at 
a season of the year little favorable to the display of its grand- 
eur. But, if I am not mistaken, its discoverers, Messrs. Oswell, 
Livingstone, and Murray, saw it under no more auspicious cir- 
cumstances. The eastern extremity, however, the only portion 
ever seen by the gentlemen in question, certainly possesses 
superior attractions to the western, or where I first struck upon 
the Ngami. 

The Lake was now very low ; and, at the point first seen by 



344 REACH THE ZOUGA RIVER THE INTERVIEW. 

us, exceedingly shallow. The water, which had a very bitter 
and disagreeable taste, was only approachable in a few places, 
partly on account of the mud, and partly because of the thick 
coating of reeds and rushes that lined the shore, and which were 
a favorite resort of a great variety of water-fowl. Many species, 
new to us, were amongst them ; but we had no time to spare for 
approaching the birds. 

We twice bivouacked on the south border of Ngami before 
coming in sight of Lecholetebe's residence, situated on the north 
bank of the river Zouga, and at a short distance from where its 
waters separate themselves from the Lake. 

I had accomplished the journey from Kobis in five days. 
With unencumbered oxen, it might, with some exertion, be made 
in half this time. 

Lecholetebe requested me to pitch my tent in his immediate 
vicinity ; but feeling fatigued, and well knowing the inconvenience 
of being in too close proximity to the natives, we encamped on 
the south side of the Zouga. 

I determined to pay my respects to the chief at an early hour 
on the following morning. To make a favorable impression on 
the mind of savages at the first interview is of great importance, 
as much of their future good-will towards one depends on this; 
and scarcely anything propitiates them more than outward show. 

Accordingly, at the contemplated hour, I donned my best 
apparel, which consisted of jacket and trowsers of fine white 
duck, a handsome red velvet sash, lined with silk of the same 
color, and a gold-embroidered skull-cap. 

The two last articles of dress were a memento of a dear female 
friend, and I had pledged myself to wear them on the first grand 
occasion. 

Having crossed the Zouga river, a few minutes' walk brought 
me to Batoana-town, the capital and residence of Lecholetebe. 
I found the chief seated on a wooden stool, within a stout semi- 
circular palisading, in the midst of forty or fifty of his followers, 
drinking coffee. He was attired in a half-European and half- 
barbarous costume ; his lower extremities were immersed in a 
pair of wide mole-skin trowsers ; he had encased his feet in socks 
and "veld" shoes, whilst from his shoulders depended gracefully 
a very handsome jackal caross. This latter, however, he almost 
immediately exchanged for waistcoat and jacket. 

Piet the Griqua, and a Bechuana man, whom a trader (then 
at the Lake) had kindly placed at my disposal, were my inter- 
preters. After the first salutations were over, I explained to 
the chief the motives of my visit, the friendly wishes of the 



IMMODERATE LAUGHTER. 345 

British Government at the Cape, and so forth. He listened to 
my story with apparent attention, and in profound silence, eye- 
ing me the whole time suspiciously. But he asked no question, 
nor did he venture any remark. 

Having conveyed to him all I had to say, I prepared to depart. 
Previously, however, to taking leave, I requested him to have 
the goodness to give me some information about his country, 
to which he abruptly replied — 

" I know nothing at all !" 

" Is there, then," I said, " none of your people who can 
furnish me with some account of it ?" 

"No," was his immediate answer. 

I was annoyed, but felt the necessity of concealing my vexa- 
tion ; and, soon after rising, I said: " Well, Lecholetebe, per- 
haps, when we become better acquainted, you will be more 
communicative. In the mean time, when it suits you, come 
over to my encampment and have a chat, and, may be, you will 
find something there to captivate your fancy." 

I had nO occasion to say this twice, as I too soon found to my 
cost. Unlike our fat friend, king Nangoro, who had the courtesy 
to make us wait about three days before he condescended to see 
us, the Bechuana chief could scarcely restrain his curiosity for 
as many hours. 

When he arrived, I was busy preparing some skins of birds 
and snakes, which caused no small amount of jesting amongst 
his followers. One fellow, more inquisitive and impertinent 
than the rest, approached close to me, and, seizing one of the 
reptiles by the tail, held it up before the multitude, which were 
now thronging my tent to inconvenience, and, addressing to it 
some unintelligible words, the whole assembly burst out into a 
deafening roar of laughter. Indeed, the mirth became so out- 
rageous as to throw the party into convulsions, many casting 
themselves at full length on the ground, with their hands 
tightly clasped across their stomachs as if in fear of bursting, 
whilst their greasy cheeks became furrowed with tears trick- 
ling down in streams. Fancy, reader, a roijal cortege pros- 
trated in the dust by laughter ! Although this merriment 
was, no doubt, at my expense, the sight more amused than 
annoyed me. 

As soon as the noise had subsided, I brought forward my 
presents for the chief, consisting of beads, knives, tobacco, 
snuff, steel-chains, rings, blue calico, red woolen caps, and 
trinkets of various kinds. Without deiorninar even a look of 
satisfaction, Lecholetebe silently distributed the goods amongst 



346 AN UN GRATIFIED WISH. 

the principal of his men who were grouped around him, reserv- 
ing, apparently, nothing to himself. This being done, he looked 
anxiously round, from which I inferred that some ungratified 
desire was still on his heart. Nor was I deceived ; for all at 
once he inquired whether I had not brought him some powder 
and lead, which he might barter for ivory. I told him that I 
had some ; but, firstly, it was not more than I myself wanted ; 
and, secondly, I was prohibited by the British Government at 
the Cape from disposing of either arms or ammunition, and that 
I could not think of disobeying these orders. 

At this declaration his countenance fell, and I saw clearly 
that he was very much annoyed. But I was prepared for his 
displeasure ; and, by opportunely placing in his hand a double- 
barreled pistol, which I had previously been informed he covet- 
ed excessively, and which I begged him to accept as a me- 
mento of my visit, his visage soon beamed with delight and 
satisfaction, and we became excellent friends. 

When Europeans first visited the Lake, they were, I am 
told, liberally entertained by Lecholetebe ; but, whatever civil- 
ity he might have shown to strangers in former times, much 
cannot be said in favor of his hospitality at the present day. 
During my whole stay at the Lake, I never received from him 
so much as a handful of corn, or a cup of milk. On the con- 
trary, he, whilst we ourselves were almost starving, was in the 
habit of begging food daily from me. 

If anything takes his fancy — no matter what — it may be 
the shirt you wear — he has no scruple in asking you for it at 
once. Upon your refusal, he will, perhaps, leave you for a 
time, but is sure to return and renew his request with the 
greatest pertinacity, never ceasing his solicitations till, by his 
vexatious importunity, he has succeeded in getting the object 
jf his desire — a line of policy, the success of which he seems 
fully to understand. 

The arrival of several wagons at the Lake, at the same time, 
puts him in the highest glee. On these occasions, he never fails 
to make his rounds, craving bread from one, sugar from another;, 
coffee from a third, meat from a fourth, and so on. 

The traders, however, know how to take advantage of this 
weakness in his character, and often make him pay dearly for 
such articles as may captivate his fancy ; for instance, I have 
known a man to get a good-sized bull-elephant tusk for three 
common copper drinking-cups I 1 

1 "When the Lake was first discovered, a man told me that he obtained, ia 



AUTHOR DESIROUS OF VISITING L I B E B E . 347 

Lecholetebe possesses great power over his people, when he 
chooses to exercise it ; but I am inclined to think their sub- 
jection is attributable more to superstition, and the force of 
custom, than to any real regard for his person. Generally 
speaking, he is not of a cruel disposition. But that he holds 
human life in very light estimation, the following incident, 
which came under my own immediate notice, serves to show : 

Having lately bought some horses, two bushmen were order- 
ed to take charge of them ; but, unfortunately, by their neg- 
lect, one of the animals fell into a quagmire, and was suffo- 
cated. Being afraid to tell the truth, they reported to the 
chief that the horse had died from the effects of the bite of a 
snake. On hearing this, Lecholetebe questioned the men as to 
the part of the body wounded by the reptile, and being told 
that it was in the head, he ordered the man to lead him to the 
place, that he might see for himself. On arriving at the spot, 
he at once saw how the case stood, and told the bushmen that 
the animal had not died from the bite of a snake, but was evi- 
dently choked in the mud, to which they confessed, as there 
was no longer any chance of concealing; the truth. Without 
further question or remark, the chief ordered the halter of the 
dead horse to be loosened, and the hands and feet of the bush- 
men to be secured with it. This being done, they were thrown 
into the mud, alongside the dead quadruped, where, of course, 
they soon miserably perished, Lecholetebe coolly exclaiming : 
" There, now mind the horse !" 

Another instance of the little value he sets on human (rather 
bushnan) life, I have upon good authority. Abushman lad, who 
had long been successfully engaged in sheep-stealing, was at 
length detected, and, as a punishment for his crimes, was tied 
to a tree, and practiced upon with guns at the long distance of 
two hundred paces. 

The object I had now chiefly in view was to visit a place 
called Libebe, situated considerably to the north of the Lake, 
not so much to see the country, as to collect information in 
regard to the mighty waters (part of which are tributaries to 
the Ngami) lately brought to light in that remote region ; as 
also to ascertain if any water communication existed with the 
sea. But many difficulties were in the way. My people 
refused almost to a man to accompany me ; and as our agree- 
ment only bound them as far as the Ngami, I could not corn- 
exchange for a musket, twelve hundred pounds of ivory, worth, at the least, 
£240 sterling! 



34:8 LECHOLETEBE CONSENTS. 

pel them to go on. The parts that I should have to pass 
through are infected with fevers fatal to human life ; and then, 
again, the tsetse fly abounds, which, from the ravages it 
causes amongst cattle, renders traveling by land almost impos- 
sible. 

The only way left was to penetrate northwards by water, if 
practicable ; but here again I found serious impediments. I 
had no boat of my own, and Lecholetebe (like all native chiefs) 
was known to be particularly hostile to any attempt to pass 
beyond his territory. Not the most alluring promises of presents 
and rewards had yet succeeded in inducing him to assist any one 
in this matter. Consequently, I could not expect that he 
would treat me differently, the rather as I was really not in a 
position to offer him a bribe of any value. It being a darling 
scheme of mine, however, to penetrate to Libebe, I was deter- 
mined on carrying it out if possible. 

Accordingly, I seized the first favorable opportunity of broach- 
ing the subject to the chief, and requested he would furnish me 
with men and canoes. To my great astonishment, but no less 
delight, and without the slightest objection, he agreed to my 
proposal. As, however, I could not flatter myself that I had 
procured a more favorable impression than any other traveler, I 
suspected deceit of some kind; and the sequel proved I was not 
mistaken in my conjecture. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

THE NGAMI WHEN DISCOVERED ITS VARIOUS NAMES— ITS SIZE AND 

FORM GREAT CHANGES IN ITS WATERS SINGULAR PHENOMENON THE 

TEOGE RIVER THE ZOUGA RIVER THE MUKURU MUKOVANJA RIVER 

AMIMALS BIRDS CROCODILES SERPENTS FISH. 

At an early period of the present century rumors had reached 
Europeans of a vast lake in the interior of South Africa ; but for 
a very long time its existence continued to be involved in mys- 
tery, and travelers and hunters were unavailingly expending 
their resources and energies to solve the grand problem. 

The cause of all these failures was chiefly to be found in the 
desert and inhospitable regions which lie between the explorers 
and the supposed lake, commonly known as the Kalahari desert. 
Towards the close of 1849, however, and when the hope of our 
being able to overcome this apparently insurmountable barrier 
was almost extinguished, the great object was accomplished by 
the persevering exertions of Messrs. Oswell, Livingstone, and 
Murray, and the existence was made known of a fine fresh-water 
lake in the centre of South Africa. 

This important and highly interesting discovery at once 
opened a new and extensive field for the inquiries of the geo- 
grapher and the naturalist, and gave a fresh impulse to the en- 
terprising and speculating spirit of the colonists of Southern 
Africa. The lake was described as a magnificent sheet of water, 
abounding in fish and hippopotami, and the country around as 
well stocked with elephants, and other large game, whilst the 
vegetation was said to be on the most luxuriant scale. The dis- 
covery excited very considerable interest. 



350 VARIOUS NAMES OF THE LAKE. 

The lake goes with the natives by different names — all of 
which are more or less appropriate — such as Inghdbe (the giraffe); 
NoJca ea BotUtle (lake of the Botletle); NoJca ca Mokoron (lake of 
boats) ; and Ngami, or The Waters. As the last designation is 
the one by which the lake is best known to Europeans, I will 
retain it throughout the remainder of this narrative. 

As before said, on taking a nearer survey of the lake, I expe- 
rienced some disappointment as to its attractions. It is, how- 
ever, indisputably a fine sheet of water ; but in size is somewhat 
overrated, the. estimation of its length alone being at one time 
considered no less than one hundred miles, and the width about/ 
fifteen or sixteen. The misconception may thus, perhaps, be 
accounted for. In the first instance, no person, to the best of 
my belief, has ever yet been quite round it ; secondly, the 
shores — with the exception of the south and west side — are low 
and sandy, and in hazy weather cannot easily be distinguished ; 
and, lastly, I am inclined to think that the discoverers mistook 
its length for its breadth, for, according to Cooly, " The travel- 
ers beheld with delight the fine river, and the lake extending 
out of sight to the north and west." Again, my friend Mr. 
Frederick Green, who visited the lake shortly after its discovery, 
thus states, in his manuscript journal, the impresssion he expe- 
rienced on first viewing it : 

" The day after reaching the town of Batoani, we took a ride 
to view the lake. From the southern side, we could trace the 
opposite shore some ten or twelve miles, but beyond that dis- 
tance, and to the westward, we could not, even with the aid of 
a telescope, discern any sign of land — only a blue horizon of 
water. In a subsequent journey, however, and when traveling 
along its southern shores, I found that the opposite strand could 
always be seen. When first viewing it, we were not, as we 
then thought, looking across, but lengthivise." 

The whole circumference is probably about sixty or seventy 
geographical miles ; its average breadth seven miles, and not 
exceeding nine at its widest parts. Its shape, moreover, is 
narrow in the middle, and bulging out at the two ends ; and I may 
add, that the first reports received many years ago from the na- 
tives about the lake, and which concurred in representing it of 
the shape of a pair of spectacles, are correct. 

The northern shore of Ngami is low and sandy, without a tree 
or bush, or any other kind of vegetation within half-a-mile, and 
more commonly a mile. Beyond this distance (almost all round 
the lake) the country is very thickly wooded with various sorts 
of acacia indigenous to Southern Africa, the Damara " parent 



GREAT CHANGES IN THE LAKE. 351 

tree," a few species of wild fruit trees, and here and there an 
occasional baobob, which raises its enormous head high above 
the highest giant of the forest. The southern coast of the lake 
is considerably elevated, and the water is so closely fringed by 
extensive belts of reeds and bushes, that it is only accessible in 
a few places, or where the native cattle have broken through 
these natural defenses. The west shore of the lake is also 
somewhat raised, though the water is very shallow ; but it 
deepens considerably towards its eastern extremity. 

The Ngami must have undergone very considerable changes 
at different periods. The natives have frequently pointed out 
to me places, now covered with vegetation, where they used to 
spear the hippopotamus. Again, there are unmistakable proofs of 
its having been at one time of smaller dimension than at present ; 
for submerged stumps of trees are constantly met with. This 
is not, I believe, to be attributed to the upheaving, or to the 
sinking of the land, but that, in all probability, the lake was 
originally of its present size, or nearly so, when a sudden and 
unusually large flood poured into it from the interior, which, on 
account of the flatness of the country, could not be drained off 
as quickly as it flowed in, but caused the water to rise above its 
usual height, which, remaining in that state some time, soon 
destroyed the vegetation. 

Before the lake was known, and when only rumors had 
reached us of its existence, the natives spoke of its waters as 
retiring daily to " feed." But I am rather inclined to think 
they pointed to a singular phenomenon that I observed when 
navigating its broad waters, which I then attributed to the 
wind, though, on consideration, I suspect it was more likely to 
have arisen from the effects of the moon's attraction. 

When navigating the lake, we were in the habit of landing 
every night to bivouac, always taking the precaution to unload 
the most important articles of our baggage. The canoes were 
then pushed in shore as far as the shallowness of the water 
would permit, and left to themselves, perhaps, as far as two 
hundred yards from terra jirma. On remonstrating with the 
boatmen for not better securing our little flotilla, they replied 
that any further precautions were unnecessary, inasmuch as the 
water (which had already begun to ebb) would shortly recede 
and leave the canoes dry on the beach. I felt skeptical ; but, 
nevertheless, allowed them to have their own way. In the 
course of the night it fell calm (a fresh breeze had been blow- 
ing during the day), and next morning we found that what the 
boatmen had predicted was fulfilled; the canoes were as far 



S52 THE T E O G E T HE Z O U G A . 

from the water as, on the preceding evening, they had been 
from the shore. 

From the time that the wind fell, the water began slowly to 
return, and about nine o'clock in the morning it was at its usual 
height, and the canoes floated once more without any effort on 
our side. 

The lake is fed by the Teoge at its northwest extremity. The 
river never, perhaps, much exceeds forty yards ; but it is deep, 
and, when at its greatest height, contains a large volume of 
water. Its annual overflow takes place in June, July, and 
August, and sometimes even later. The source of the Teoge is 
as yet unknown, but it is supposed to be very distant. It may, 
probably, have its rise on the same high table-land as the 
Quanza, and other streams of importance. The main course of 
the Teoge is N.W., but it is so serpentine that, in thirteen days, 
when I ascended it, traveling, on an average, five miles per day, 
and reckoning two and a quarter miles to the hour, I only made 
about one degree of latitude due north of the lake. As far as I 
proceeded, however, it was navigable with smaller craft ; for 
only in three places that I can remember did I find less than 
five feet of water, and, generally speaking, the depth was con- 
siderable. It must be recollected, however, that it was then at 
its greatest height. 

Though that portion of the Teoge ascended by me is narrow, I 
am told that, on approaching its source, it widens considerably 
(one of the many curious points in African geography) ; and the 
country on both sides is often inundated to a very great extent, 
frequently having the appearance of an endless lake, thickly 
overgrown with reeds and rushes, and dotted with islets covered 
with beautiful trees and shrubs. 

At its eastern extremity, the Ngami finds an outlet (the only 
one) in the fine and stately Zouga. This river, near the Batoa- 
na-Town, where it escapes from the Lake, is about two hundred 
yards wide ; and, from its gentle flow, appears at rest, the mo- 
tion of the stream being imperceptible to the eye. Indeed, it is as- 
serted by some — and should it be found correct, it certainly would 
be a most extraordinary fact — that the waters of the Zouga are, 
at one time of the year, forced back into the Lake by a branch 
of the Teoge, which river thus not only feeds the Lake at its N.W. 
extremity, as has been already stated, but at the E. as well. 
From the very imperfect development of the water-courses in 
these parts, I do not think this impossible. 

The Zouga continues to run in an easterly direction from the 
Lake for nearly a month's journey, or a distance of about three 



THE Z O U G A . 353 

hundred miles, taking all the windings into account, when it is 
lost in an immense marsh or sand-flat, 1 called, by some, Great 
Reed Vley. It is a perfect sea of reeds (with occasional open- 
ings), and affords a favorite resort to innumerable herds of 
buffaloes. 

About twenty miles before the Zouga ceases to flow, it ex- 
pands into a lake, two to four miles broad, and about twelve or 
fifteen in extent. During the dry season, this river presents " a 
series of pools with dry spaces between." 

The vegetation all along its course is varied and luxuriant, and 
in some places the scenery is quite charming ; the banks of the 
river being often, to the very water's edge, covered with majestic 
trees of beautiful and dense foliage. The baobob is particularly 
conspicuous, attaining, not unfrequently, round its stem, a girth 
of from sixty to seventy-five feet. "The banks," says Mr. 
Livingstone, in a letter to a friend, " are beautiful beyond any we 
had ever seen, except, perhaps, some parts of the Clyde. * * 
* * * * The higher we ascended the river, the broader 
it became, until we often saw more than one hundred yards of 
clear deep water between the broad belt of reed which grows in 
the shallower parts. * * * * * One remarkable 
feature in this river is, its periodical rise and fall. It has risen 
nearly three feet since our arrival ; and this is the dry season. 
That the rise is not caused by rains, is evident, from the water 
being so pure. Its purity and softness increased as we ascended 
towards its junction with the Tamanakle, from which, although 
connected with the lake, it derives its present increased supply. 
The people could give no reason for the rise of the water, fur- 
ther than that a chief, who lives in a part of the country to the 
north, called Mazzekiva, kills a man annually, and throws his 
body into the stream, after which the water begins to flow." 

Before closing my remarks on the rivers of the Lake, I must 
beg to draw the attention of the reader to a circumstance, which 
may prove of the most vital interest to the civilization and com- 
merce of these regions. It is as follows : — 

About two days west of the Teoge, two rivers are reported to 
exist. The one is a small branch of the Teoge, and is supposed, 
after meandering through the desert for a couple of days, to lose 
itself in a marsh. The second (and to which I particularly de- 

1 Many are of opinion that this river continues to flow subterraneously, and that 
it ultimately finds an outlet into the sea on the east coast. It is by no means un- 
common in African geography — and we have in England an instance of it in the 
Mole — to find a river suddenly disappearing, and as unexpectedly reappearing at 
some little distance. 
23 



354 THE MUKURU-MUKOVANJA. 

sire to draw notice) is of larger dimensions, though, near to its 
source, only periodical. In its course, however, it is fed by- 
fountains — not an uncommon thing in Africa ; and it soon in- 
creases to a constantly running stream. In due time, it becomes 
a mighty river, flowing slowly through the country of several 
black nations, and ultimately discharging itself into the sea. 
This is the statement of a party of Griquas, who traveled in this 
direction in search of elephants. I should, perhaps, have hesi- 
tated to give credit to their account, had it not, on more than 
one occasion, been corroborated. Whilst on our visit to the 
Ovambo, we inquired, as mentioned, if they were not aware of 
any permanently running river in their neighborhood, to which 
they immediately and unhesitatingly replied in the affirmative. 
" The Cunene," they said, " was only four or five days' foot-jour- 
ney distant from them ;" but added, " that it was not to be 
compared with a river called Mukuru-Mukovanj a, that comes out 
of Ovatjona-land (clearly the Bechuana country), of which the 
Cunene is only a branch." This valuable and interesting in- 
formation was confirmed by the Hill-Damaras. 

Again, when Mr. Galton and mj^self, distant only some eight 
or ten days' journey from the Lake, were obliged to retrace our 
steps, on account of excessive drought, we were informed by the 
bushmen of the existence of a large river to the north, coming 
from Bechuana-land, and running westward. They further add- 
ed, that another small river comes from the same direction, but 
is soon lost in the sand, or terminates in a marsh. Now, except- 
ing that the latter is a branch of the Teoge (instead of having 
its source in the Lake, in common with the large river, as they 
asserted) their account may be said to have been substantiated. 
From these statements, the existence of a river, in all proba- 
bility of great magnitude, and, perhaps, navigable to its very 
source, or nearly so, is so far authenticated that I have -had no 
hesitation in laying it down on my map. Assuming that the 
Teoge and the Mukuru-Mukovanja run parallel, though in con- 
trary directions, at the distance from each other of two or three 
days' journey, as I was informed by the Griquas above men- 
tioned, there exists an almost uninterrupted navigation of several 
hundred miles, affording a comparatively easy transport to the 
sea-coast of the produce of a rich and fertile interior. 

A great variety of animals are found in the Lake regions, more 
especially in the vicinity of the rivers, 1 such as elephants, rhi- 

1 Dr. Livingstone informs us that, on the first discovery of the Zouga, its banks 
literally swarmed with wild animals, and that, in the course of three years, no less 



THE LECH £ T HE NAKONG. 357 

noceroses, buffaloes, giraffes, koodoos, pallahs, etc., as also two 
new species of antelopes, the nakong and the leche, both of 
which are well represented on the accompanying plate. 

The leche bears some resemblance to the pallah, but is alto- 
gether a larger animal. In size, indeed, it almost equals the 
water-buck (aigocerus ellipsiprymnus), and the horns are very 
similar to those of the male of that beast. The general color of 
the skin is a pale brown ; chest, belly, and orbits, white ; and 
front of legs dark brown. The fur (which, in the young animal, 
is long, soft, and often curly) of the adult is short and " adpress- 
ed." The upper part of the nape and withers are provided 
with a small whorl of hair. The tip of the tail (slender at the 
base) is adorned with a tuft of black hair. 

The leche is a species of water-buck ; for, though not actually 
living in water, he is never found any distance from it. When 
pursued, the leche unhesitatingly plunges into the water, how- 
ever deep. Great numbers are annually destroyed by the Baye- 
ye, who convert their hides into a kind of rug for sleeping on, 
carosses, and other articles of wearing apparel. 

To the best of my belief, the nakong has never been described 
by naturalists. 1 Unfortunately, the materials I possessed, and 
which would in some degree have enabled me to supply this 
deficiency, were left behind in Africa. Through the kindness 
of Colonel Steele, an opportunity has been afforded me of in- 
specting one or two heads of the nakong, as also a caross 

than nine hundred elephants were killed. However, from the persecution to 
which the game is constantly exposed, and the introduction of fire-arms, the num- 
ber of animals has rapidly decreased^ and what remain are wild and wary. 

1 Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, to whom I submitted an imperfect skin, and 
a sketch of the head of the nakong, is unable to determine its exact nature, but 
seems inclined to consider it identical with the tragelaphus eurycerus — the broad- 
horned antelope — of which specimens of horns and heads have been brought from 
the Bight of Biafra, on the west coast of Africa. In the " Proceedings of the 
Zoological Society," No. 250, p. 4*7, the following details appear : 

" Head pale brown. Broad band before the eyes, and two large spots on cheeks, 
chin, and front of upper lip, white. Horns elongate, thick, scarcely bent forward 
at the tip. Throat with long black hairs." 

Again, from a head in Mr. Warwick's collection : 

" The horns are very similar to those of t. angasii, but the head is considerably 
larger, nearly as large as that of the koodoo, and the horns are thicker and larger ; 
they are twenty-seven inches long in a straight line from base to tip, and nine inches 
in circumference at the base. The hair of the head is also paler and more uni- 
formly colored, and with very large white spots on the cheek, much larger than 
those of the koodoo or of t. angasii. The throat has a distinct mane of blackish 
rigid hairs. The muffle is very like that of t. angasii, and larger than that of 
the koodoo. The skull is imperfect ; it has no appearance of any suborbital pit 
or slit." 



358 HIPPOPOTAM I— O T T E R S B IRDS. 

(brought from the Lake Ngami by Mr. Oswell) made out of 
pieces of the skins of this animal. But they are all so imperfect, 
that to attempt anything like a scientific description would be 
ineffectual ; the more so, perhaps, as I only once had an oppor- 
tunity of viewing a pair of nakongs, and that was at a distance. 
Suffice it, therefore, to say that the general color of the animal 
is a subdued brown, darkest on the back, and on the front of 
head and legs. Beneath, it is of a lighter hue — almost ash-col- 
ored. On each side of the rump, as also on the inside of the 
legs, if I remember rightly, there is a whitish line or patch. The 
hair of the skin, which is much used by the natives for carosses, 
is long and coarse. The horns are black, very like those of the 
koodoo ; and, in the adult animal, would appear to attain to an 
equal, if not larger, size. Before they are much developed, 
there is scarcely any indication of spiral turns, and they are 
then not unlike the horns of goats. 

The nakong is a water-buck. By means of its peculiarly 
long hoofs (which are black), not unfrequently attaining a length 
of six to seven inches, it is able to traverse with facility the 
reedy bogs and quagmires with which the Lake country abounds 
— localities only fit for the feathery tribe. When at the Ngami, 
I offered very tempting rewards to the natives if they would 
bring me this animal either dead or alive ; but they protested, 
that though they frequently kill the nakong by pit-falls and 
spears, it was not then possible to gratify my wishes, as, at that 
season, the beast dwelt almost entirely in muddy and watery 
localities, where any attempt to follow it would be certain de- 
struction to a man. 

Hippopotami abound on the northern side of the Ngami, and 
more especially towards its northwest extremity, or to the 
right of where the Teoge river enters the Lake. 

Otters are not uncommon in the rivers and the Lake. They 
appear to be of the same species as with us, but present great 
variety of color. The fur is good and much sought after. 

If the quadrupeds of the Lake Fauna are numerous and va- 
ried, the axes class is no less rich and abundant. In our first 
journey through Damara-land, I had made such a complete col- 
lection of its birds and insects, that I almost despaired of ob- 
taining anything new and interesting ; but here I found at once 
an unexplored and almost unlimited field for the naturalist. 
Unfortunately, I was not in a state to be able to benefit to any 
extent, by its abundance and variety, which I regret exceed- 
ingly- 

The aquatic birds were particularly numerous and varied. A 



THE CKOCODIL E S EEPENTS. 359 

friend, who visited the Lake, assured me that here, and on the 
Zouga, he had, at one time and another, killed specimens of no 
less than nineteen species of ducks and geese. One of the latter 
varieties is not larger than a common teal, but clothed in the 
most brilliant plumage. The herons and water-hens vie with 
the duck-tribe in numbers and gaudiness of plumage. During 
a hurried journey up the Teoge, I procured, in a short time, 
herons of upward of ten distinct species, besides several differ- 
ent kinds of storks, cranes, etc. 

The Lake and its rivers swarm with crocodiles. During the 
cold time of the year, they resort to deep water, where they re- 
main in a state of comparative inactivity ; but on the approach 
of the hot season they again come forward, and may be seen 
lying in great numbers along the banks, basking in the noonday 
sun, and looking exactly like so many logs of wood. I have 
often surprised them in this position ; and, if not too close, they 
have invariably feigned to be asleep. The instant, however, 
that I have raised my gun, or even merely pointed towards 
them, they have plunged into the deep like a shot. 

They are said occasionally to attain a gigantic size ; but no 
authenticated instance has come to my knowledge of any speci- 
men being killed which measured above fifteen or sixteen feet, 
though I have heard it asserted that they sometimes reach double 
that length. 

The crocodile chiefly lives on quadrupeds, which he lies in 
wait for, and destroys when coming to drink ; but he is said 
never to devour his prey before the flesh has arrived at a state 
of putrefaction. 

When in its native element, the power of this animal must be 
enormous ; for, if the testimony of the inhabitants is to be relied 
on, he not unfrequently succeeds in destroying the buffaloe, 
which they say he accomplishes by seizing the beast by the 
muzzle and dragging him into deep water, where he suffocates 
him. This being done, he hauls his victim back to the shore, 
and, pushing the carcass above water-mark, watches over it un- 
til it has become nicely tainted, when he commences his feast. 

From the moist and swampy nature of the ground about the 
Lake and the rivers, snakes, as may well be supposed, are nu- 
merous ; but though they at times attain a gigantic size, they 
appear very harmless, being often destroyed by the natives, 
who devour them with great relish. I never myself saw a speci- 
men exceeding seven or eight feet in length, but procured skins 
measuring fully three times that size. The bushmen assured 
me that they not unfrequently surprise these monsters when 



360 FISH. 

asleep and gorged, and that on such occasions it was not 
unusual to dispatch them with a blow on the head from the 
knob-kierie. These snakes feed chiefly on birds and smaller 
quadrupeds. 

The finny tribe was also pretty numerous ; but my stay at 
the Lake was of too short a duration to collect much information 
on this head. I saw and tasted many different kinds, some of 
which were most excellent eating, and had a rich and agreeable 
flavor. The only ones, however, which I remember had any 
likeness to northern fishes were a sort of perch, and one or two 
barbel kinds. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

THE BATOANA GOVERNMENT ELOQUENCE LANGUAGE MYTHOLOGY RE 

LIGION SUPERSTITION THE RAIN-MAKER POLYGAMY CIRCUMCISION 

BURIAL DISPOSITION OF THE BECHUANAS THIEVISH PROPENSITIES 

DRESS GREAT SNUFF- TAKERS SMOKING OCCUPATIONS AGRICULTURE 

COMMERCE HUNTING AND FISHING. 

The people who dwell on the shores of the Lake are, as be- 
fore said, called Batoana, 1 under the rule of Lecholetebe. They 
are a small tribe of that large family of " Blacks" known as 
Bechuanas, who, as a whole, are probably the most widely dis- 
tributed and the most powerful of all the dark-colored nations in 
Southern Africa. The Batoana have not been long dwellers in 
the Lake regions ; they came as conquerors under Lecholetebe's 
father. Having dispossessed the aborigines, they reduced them 
to a state of slavery, giving them a name corresponding to their 
condition, viz., Bakoba or Makoba, that is " serfs." These people, 
however, style themselves Bayeye, or "men;" and, by that ap- 
pellation, I shall hereafter call them. 

In giving a general description of the manners and customs, 
religious rites, superstitions, etc., of the Bechuanas — the parent 
stock as shown of the Batoanas — I shall also have described 

1 Some of the notions entertained of these people, before the existence of the 
Ngami was known to Europeans, are curious and amusing. Captain Messum, in 
an article in the Nautical Magazine on " the exploration of Western Africa," says 
that he had heard the inhabitants of the Lake regions represented as monsters with 
only one eye in the centre of the forehead, and feeding on human flesh, as the giants 
of old used to take their breakfasts. " A baby was nothing ; they swallowed it 
whole." 



362 



FORM OF GOVERNMENT. 



those of the latter tribe; for though they may differ in some 
respects, they agree in the main. 



■■■ ■ : 




THE BECHUANA PICHO. 



" The government of the people is at once both monarchical and 
patriarchal, and comparatively mild in its character. Each tribe 
has its chief or king, who commonly resides in the largest town, 
and is held sacred from his hereditary right to that office. A 
tribe generally includes a number of towns or villages, each 
having its distinct head, under whom there are a number of sub- 
ordinate chiefs. These constitute the aristocracy of the nation, 
and all acknowledge the supremacy of the principal one. His 
power, though very great, and in some instances despotic, is, 
nevertheless, controlled by the senior chiefs, who, in their pichos 
or pitshos (their parliament, or public meetings), use the greatest 
plainness of speech in exposing what they consider culpable or 
lax in his government. An able speaker will sometimes turn 
the scale even against the king. ####*## These 
assemblies keep up a tolerable equilibrium of power between 
the chiefs and their king ; but they are only convened when it is 
necessary to adjust differences between tribes — when a predatory 
expedition is to be undertaken — or when the removal of a tribe 
is contemplated ; though occasionally matters of less moment 
are introduced." 1 

The language used by the natives on public occasions, and 

1 Moffat. 



ELOQUENC E L AN6UAG E M YTHOLOGY. 303 

more especially by the chiefs, is often powerful, eloquent, 
shrewd, and fluent, and would do honor to the best educated 
European. Take the following speech as an example, which 
contains the address of the famos Basuto king, Mosheshe, to his 
people, when congratulating them on the happy event of having 
received three worthy missionaries amongst them : — 

"Rejoice, you Makare and Mokatchani ! — you rulers of cities, 
rejoice ! We have all reason to rejoice on account of the news 
we have heard. There are a great many sayings among men. 
Among them some are true, and some are false ; but the false 
have remained with us, and multiplied — therefore, we ought to 
pick up carefully the truths we hear, lest they should be lost in 
the rubbish of lies. We are told that we have all been created 
by one Being, and that we all spring from one man. Sin enter- 
ed man's heart when he ate the forbidden fruit, and we have got 
sin from him. These men say that they have sinned ; and what 
is sin in them is sin in us, because we come from one stock, and 
their hearts and ours are one thing. Ye Makare have heard 
these words, and you say they are lies. If these words do not 
conquer, the fault will lie with you. You say you will not believe 
what you do not understand. Look at an egg ! If a man break 
it, there comes only a watery and yellow substance out of it; 
but if it be placed under the wing of a fowl, a living thing comes 
from it. Who can understand this ? Who ever knew how the 
heat of the hen produced the chicken in the egg ? This is in- 
comprehensible to us, yet we do not deny the fact. Let us 
do like the hen. Let us place these truths in our hearts, 
as the hen does the eggs under her wings, let us sit upon 
them, and take the same pains, and something new will come of 
them." 

The language of the Bechuanas (the plural of Mochuana, a 
single individual) is called Sichuana — an adjective implying any- 
thing belonging to the nation. It is exceedingly soft and melli- 
fluous, owing to there being few syllables that end with a 
consonant. The only exceptions are " nouns in the ablative 
case, plural verbs, verbs definite, and the interrogatives why, how, 
and what, all of which end with the ringing n." 

The first acquaintance of Europeans with the Bechuanas, 
dates from an early period of the history of the Cape Colony. 
There is reason to believe that this nation once extended as far 
as the Orange River ; but at the present day, none of the tribes 
are found beyond the 28th parallel of south latitude. 

The Bechuanas (as already mentioned in the history of the 
Damaras) believe that they originally sprang from a cave, said to 



364 RELIGION. 

exist in the Bakone country, where the footmarks of the first 
man may still be seen in the rock. 

If we are to credit the testimony of some missionaries, the 
Bechuanas have no notion of a Superior Being. It is a strong 
argument in favor of this hypothesis, that no word in their lan- 
guage properly denotes God. Speaking of these people, Mr. 
Moffat says : — " I have often wished to find something by which 
I could lay hold on the minds of the natives ; an 'altar to the un- 
known God ;' the faith of their ancestors, the immortality of 
the soul, or any religious association. But nothing of this kind 
ever floated in their minds. ' They looked on the sun with the 
eyes of an ox.' To tell the greatest of them that there was a 
Creator, the Governor of the heavens and earth — of the fall of 
man, or the redemption of the world — the resurrection of the 
dead, and immortality beyond the grave, was to tell them what 
appeared to be more fabulous, extravagant, and ludicrous, than 
their own vain stories about lions, hyaenas, and jackals. To tell 
them that these (referring, of course, to the different elements of 
our creed) were articles of our faith, would extort an interjection 
of superlative surprise, as if they were too preposterous for the 
most foolish to believe." 

"'What is the difference?' said a native one day to the 
writer just quoted, pointing to his dog, ' between me and that 
animal ? You say I am immortal, and why not my dog or my 
ox ? They die ; and do you see their souls ? What is the dif- 
ference between man and beast ? None, except that man is the 
greater rogue of the two ?' 

"They could not see that there was anything in our customs 
more agreeable to flesh and blood than in their own ; but would, 
at the same time, admit that we were a wiser and a superior 
race of beings to themselves. For this superiority, some of 
their wise heads would try to account ; but this they could only 
do on the ground of our own statement, that God made man. 

"A wily fellow, who was the oracle of the village in which 
he dwelt, once remarked, after hearing me enlarge on the sub- 
ject of creation, if you verily believe that one being created all 
men, then, according to reason, you must also believe that, in 
making white people, he had improved on his work. He tried 
his hand on bushmen first, and he did not like them, because 
they were so ugly; and their language like that of frogs. He 
then tried his hand on the Hottentots ; but these did not please 
him either. He then exercised his power and skill, and made 
the Bechuanas, which was a great improvement ; and at last he 
made the white people. Therefore,' exulting with an air of 



SUPERSTITIO N T HE RAIN- MAKER. 365 

triumph at the discovery, ' the white people are so much wiser 
than we are in making walking-houses (wagons), teaching the 
oxen to draw them over hill and dale, and instructing them also 
to plough the gardens, instead of making their wives do it, like 
the Bechuanas.' " 

Dealers in the black art are numerous amongst the Be- 
chuanas, who place the most implicit confidence in the sayings 
and prescriptions of the wizards. This applies more especially 
to those persons who devote themselves to the study of " rain- 
making." 

The rain-maker possesses an influence over the minds of the 
people superior even to that of their king, who is likewise 
compelled to yield to the dictates of these " arch-officials." 
They are, in general, men of natural talent and ingenuity. In- 
deed, it is probable that, in the full consciousness of their supe- 
riority, they are emboldened to lay the public mind prostrate 
before their mysteries. Being, moreover, usually foreigners, 
they take good care to magnify prodigiously their feats abroad. 
Each tribe has one rain-maker, and sometimes more. The wizards 
are also doctors ; and, at times, they assume the office of sextons 
by superintending the disposal of the dead, it being generally 
believed that the ceremonies practiced by these impostors have 
some influence over the watery treasures floating in the skies. 
It not unfrequently happens that the rain-maker prohibits 
the usual form of interment, and, perhaps, orders the dead 
to be dragged to a distance to be devoured by beasts of 
prey. 

Mr. Moffat, in his " Missionary Labors and Scenes in South- 
ern Africa," has given, at some length, a very striking account 
of one of these rain-makers, which amply illustrates the im- 
mense influence exercised by men over the ignorant and super- 
stitious mind, as also the craft and ingenuity of the men 
themselves, in order to effect their purpose. It is in substance 
as follows : — 

Having for a number of years experienced severe droughts, 
the Bechuanas at Kuruman held a council as to the best meas- 
ures for removing the evil. After some debate, a resolution 
was passed to send for a rain-maker, of great renown, then stay- 
ing among the Bahurutsi, two hundred miles N. E. of the sta- 
tion. Accordingly, commissioners were dispatched, with strict 
injunctions not to return without the man; but it was with 
some misgivings as to the success of their mission that the man 
started. However, by large promises, they succeeded beyond 
their most sanguine expectations. 



366 THE RAIN-MAKER. 

During the absence of the ambassadors, the heavens had 
been as brass, and scarcely a passing cloud obscured the sky, 
which blazed with the dazzling rays of a vertical sun. But, 
strange to relate, the very day that the approach of the rain- 
maker was announced, the clouds began to gather thickly, the 
lightning darted, and the thunder rolled in awful grandeur, 
accompanied by a few drops of rain. The deluded multitude 
were wild with delight ; they rent the sky with their acclama- 
mations of joy; and the earth rang with their exulting and mad- 
dening shouts. Previously to entering the town, the rain-maker 
sent a peremptory order to all the inhabitants to wash their 
feet. Scarcely was the message delivered, before every soul, 
young and old, noble and ignoble, flew to the adjoining river to 
obey the command of the man whom they imagined was now 
collecting, in the heavens, all his stores of rain. 

The impostor proclaimed aloud that this year the women 
must cultivate gardens on the hills, and not in the valleys, for 
the latter would be deluged. The natives, in their enthusiasm, 
saw already their corn-fields floating in the breeze, and their 
flocks and herds return lowing homewards by noonday from the 
abundance of pasture. He told them how, in bis wrath, he had 
desolated the cities of the enemies of his people, by stretching 
forth his hand and commanding the clouds to burst upon them; 
how he had arrested the progress of a powerful army, by caus- 
ing a flood to descend, which formed a mighty river and stayed 
their course. These, and many other pretended displays of his 
power, were received as sober truths, and the chief and the 
nobles gazed on him with silent amazement. The report of his 
fame spread like wild-fire, and the rulers of the neighboring 
tribes came to pay him homage. 

In order to carry on the fraud, he would, when clouds appeared, 
command the women neither to plant nor sow, lest the seed 
should be washed away. He would also require them to go 
to the fields, and gather certain roots and herbs, with which he 
might light, what appeared to the natives, mysterious fires. 
Elate with hope, they would go in crowds to the hills and val- 
leys, collect herbs, return to the town with songs, and lay 
their gatherings at the magician's feet. With these he would 
sometimes proceed to certain hills, and raise smoke ; gladly 
would he have called up the wind also, if he could have dore 
so, w T ell-knowing that the latter is frequently the precursor of 
rain. He would select the time of new and full moon for his 
purpose, aware that at those seasons there was frequently a 
change in the atmosphere. But the rain-maker found the 



THE RAIN- MAKER. 367 

clouds in these parts rather harder to manage than those of the 
Bahnrutsi country, whence he came. 

One day as he was sound asleep, a shower fell, on which one 
of the principal men entered his house to congratulate him on 
the happy event ; but, to his utter amazement, he found the 
magician totally insensible to what was transpiring. " Hela ka 
rare ! (halloo, by my father !) I thought you were making rain," 
said the intruder. Arising from his slumber, and seeing his 
wife sitting on the floor, shaking a milk-sack, in order to obtain 
a little butter to anoint her hair, the wily rain-maker adroitly 
replied, " Do you not see my wife churning rain as fast as she 
can'?" This ready answer gave entire satisfaction ; and it pre- 
sently spread through the length and breadth of the town, that 
the rain-maker had churned the shower out of a milk-sack. 

The moisture, however, caused by this shower, soon dried 
up ; and, for many a long week afterwards, not a cloud ap- 
peared. The women had cultivated extensive fields ; but the 
seed was lying in the soil as it had been thrown from the hand ; 
the cattle were dying from want of pasture ; and hundreds of 
emaciated men were seen going to the fields in quest of un- 
wholesome roots and reptiles, while others were perishing with 
hunger. 

All these circumstances irritated the rain-maker very much, 
and he complained that secret rogues were disobeying his pro- 
clamations. When urged to make repeated trials, he would 
reply — " You only give me sheep and goats to kill ; therefore, 
I can only make goat-rain ; give me fat slaughter oxen, and I 
shall let you see ox-rain." 

One night, a small cloud passed over, and a single flash of 
lightning, from which a heavy peal of thunder burst, struck a 
tree in the town. Next day, the rain-maker and a number of 
people assembled to perform the usual ceremony on such an 
event. The stricken tree was ascended, and roots and ropes of 
grass were bound round different parts of the trunk. When 
these bandages were made, the conjuror deposited some of his 
nostrums, and got quantities of water handed up, which he poured 
with great solemnity on the wounded tree, while the assembled 
multitude shouted " Pula ! pula !" The tree was now hewn down, 
dragged out of the town, and burned to ashes. Soon after, the 
rain-maker got large bowls of water, with which was mingled 
an infusion of bulbs. All the men of the town were then made 
to pass before him, when he sprinkled each person with a 
zebra's tail dipped in water. 

Finding that this did not produce the desired effect, the itnpos- 



368 THE RAIN-MAKER. 

tor had recourse to another stratagem. He well knew that baboons 
were not very easily caught amongst rocky glens and shelving 
precipices, and, therefore, in order to gain time, he informed the 
men that, to make rain, he must have a baboon. Moreover, 
that not a hair on its body was to be wanting ; in short, the 
animal should be free from blemish. After a long and severe 
pursuit, and with bodies much lacerated, a band of chosen 
runners succeeded in capturing a young baboon, which they 
brought back triumphantly and exultingly. On seeing the 
animal, the rogue put on a countenance exhibiting the most in- 
tense sorrow, exclaiming, "My heart is rent in pieces ! — I am 
dumb with grief!" Pointing, at the same time, to the ear of 
the baboon that was slightly scratched, and the tail which had 
lost some hair, he added, " Did I not tell you I could not bring 
rain if there was one hair wanting ?" 

He had often said, that, if they could procure him the heart 
of a lion, he would show them he could make rain so abundant 
that a man might think himself well off to be under shelter, as 
when it fell it might sweep whole towns away. He had dis- 
covered that the clouds required strong medicines, and that a 
lion's heart would do the business. To obtain this, the rain- 
maker well knew was no joke. One day it was announced that 
a lion had attacked one of the cattle outposts, not far from the 
town, and a party set off" for the twofold purpose of getting a 
key to the clouds and disposing of a dangerous enemy. The 
orders were imperative, whatever the consequences might be. 
Fortunately, the lion was shot dead by a man armed with a gun. 
Greatly elated by their success, they forthwith returned with 
their prize, singing the conqueror's song in full chorus. The 
rain-maker at once set about preparing his medicines, kindled 
his fires, and standing on the top of a hill, he stretched forth his 
hands beckoning to the clouds to draw near, occasionally shaking 
his spear, and threatening them with his ire should they disobey 
his commands. The populace believed all this, and wondered 
the rain would not fall. 

Having discovered that a corpse, which had been put into the 
ground some weeks before, had not received enough water at 
its burial, and knowing the aversion of the Bechuanas to a dead 
body, he ordered the corse to be taken up, washed, and re- 
interred. Contrary to his expectation, and horrible as the cere- 
mony must have been, it was performed. Still the heavens 
remained inexorable. 

Having exhausted his skill and ingenuity, the impostor began 
to be sorely puzzled to find something on which to lay the 



THE RAIN-MAKER. 369 

blame. Like all of his profession, he was a subtle fellow, in the 
habit of studying human nature, affable, acute, and exhibiting 
a dignity of mien, with an ample share of self-complacency, 
which he could not hide. Hitherto, he had studiously avoided 
giving the least offense to the missionaries, whom he found were 
men of peace, who would not quarrel. He frequently con- 
descended to visit them, and, in the course of conversation, 
would often give a feeble assent to their opinions as to the sources 
of that element over which he pretended to have sovereign con- 
trol. However, finding all his wiles unavailing to produce the 
desired result, and, notwithstanding the many proofs of kindness 
he had received from the missionaries, he began to hint that 
the reverend gentlemen were the cause of the obstinacy of the 
clouds ! One day it was discovered that the rain had been pre- 
vented by Mr. Moffat bringing a bag of salt with him from a 
journey that he had undertaken to G-riqua-town. But, finding on 
examination that the reported salt was only white clay or chalk, 
the natives could not help laughing at their own credulity. 

From insinuations he proceeded to open accusations. After 
having kept himself secluded for a fortnight, he one day ap- 
peared in the public fold and proclaimed that he had at last 
discovered the cause of the drought. After keeping the audience 
in suspense for a short time, he suddenly broke forth, " Do you 
not see," he asked, " when clouds cover us, that Hamilton and 
Moffat look at them ? Theit white faces scare them away, and 
you cannot expect rain so long as they are in the country." 
This was a home stroke. The people became impatient, and 
poured forth their curses against the poor missionaries as the 
cause of all their sorrows. The bell, which was rung for public 
worship, they said, frightened the vapors ; the prayers even 
came in for a share of the blame. " Don't you," said the chief 
one day rather fiercely to Mr. Moffat, " bow down in your 
houses, and pray and talk to something bad in the ground ?" 

But to shorten a long story: after exposing the missionaries 
to much risk and danger by his insinuations and accusations, 
the tables were turned in their favor. The rain-maker was now 
suspected ; his gross impositions were unveiled, and he was 
about to pay the penalty of death — the well-merited reward for 
his scandalous conduct — when Mr. Moffat generously interfered, 
and, through his presence of mind and humanity, succeeded in 
saving the life of one who had so often threatened his own, and 
who would not have scrupled to take it, could he thereby have 
served his purpose. Death, however, soon overtook him, for he 
was eventually murdered amongst the Bauangkctsi nation. 
24 



370 POLYGAM Y B URIAL OF THE DEAD. 

Mr. Moffat concludes his remarks on the career of this notable 
rain-maker by the following observation: — 

"It is a remarkable fact that a rain-maker never dies a natural 
death. I have known some, and heard of many, who had, by 
one means or other, fallen a prey to the fury of their disap- 
pointed employers; but, notwithstanding this, there was no 
want of successors. There is not one tribe whose people have 
not imbrued their hands in the blood of these impostors, whom 
they first adore, then curse, and, lastly, destroy." 

Polygamy exists to almost unlimited extent. A man may 
have as many wives as he chooses, provided he can pay for such 
privilege the usual fees, which vary according to the wealth of 
the husband. 

Like the Damaras, the Beclmanas practice circumcision. From 
an early age upwards, even to manhood, the males are circum- 
cised. Children, however, born of parents previously to their 
having been operated upon, cannot inherit regal power. The 
ceremony being performed, the youth is anointed, and at once 
assumes the character, air, and dress of a man. He is also con- 
sidered fit to carry arms. 

The females have also their " religious" festival about the same 
age as the boys; and, for a certain period, are under the tuition 
of matrons, who indoctrinate them in all the duties of wives — 
passive obedience being especially inculcated. As a last ordeal, 
they are made to carry a piece of heated iron, in order to show 
that their hands are fit for labor. They are then lubricated 
with grease ; the lower part of their hair is shaven off, and the 
remainder profusely bedaubed with a paste of butter and sebilo 
(dark, shining ochre). They now adopt the usual female dress. 
" Kaised thus, from comparative infancy to what they consider 
womanhood, they view themselves with as much complacency 
as if they were enrobed in the attire of a daughter of an eastern 
potentate. They have reached nearly to a climax in their life; 
lor they expect soon to be married — to be a mother they con- 
sider the chief end of a woman's existence." 

The Bechuanas generally bury their dead. The ceremony 
of interment, etc., varied in different localities, and is influenced 
by the rank of the deceased ; but the following is a fair speci- 
men of the way in which these obsequies are managed. 

On the approaching dissolution of a man, a skin, or net, is 
thrown over the body, which is held in a sitting posture, with 
the knees doubled up under the chin, until life is extinct. A 
grave is then dug — very frequently in the cattle-fold — six feet 
in depth, and about three in width, the interior being rubbed 



BECHUANA CHARACTER. 371 

over with a certain large bulb. The body, having the head 
covered, is then conveyed through a hole, made for the purpose 
in the house and the surrounding fence, and deposited in the 
grave in a sitting position, care being taken to put the face of 
the corpse against the north. " Portions of an ant-hill are 
placed about the feet, when the net which held the body is gra- 
dually withdrawn. As the grave is filled up, the earth is hand- 
ed in with bow T ls, while two men stand in the hole to tread it 
down round the body, great care being taken to pick out every- 
thing like a root or pebble. When the earth reaches the height 
of the mouth, a small twig or branch of an acacia is thrown in, 
and on the top of the head a few roots of grass are placed. The 
grave being nearly filled, another root of grass is fixed imme- 
diately over the head, part of which stands above ground. 
When this portion of the ceremony is over, the men and women 
stoop, and with their hands scrape on to the little mound the 
loose soil lying about. A large bowl of water, with an infusion 
of bulbs, is now brought, when the men and women wash their 
hands and the upper part of their feet, shouting ' Pula ! pula !' 
(Rain! rain!) An old woman, probably a relation, will then 
bring the weapons of the deceased (bow, arrows, war-axe, and 
spears); also grain and garden seeds of various kinds ; and even 
the bone of an old pack-ox, with other things. They finally ad- 
dress the grave, saying, ' These are all your articles.' The 
things are then taken away, and bowls of water are poured on 
the grave, when all retire, the women wailing — 'Yo! yo ! yo !' 
with some doleful dirge, sorrowing without hope." 

" The ancients were of opinion that the face was always the 
index of the mind. Modern physiognomists have gone a step 
further, pretending, that a fine form, perfect in all its parts, 
cannot contain a crooked or an imperfect mind." Judging the 
mind of a Bechuana by such a rule, it would not be pronounced 
deficient in talent. Nor is it. But, though the Bechuanas are 
a very superior race of men, they frequently conceal cunning 
and duplicity under an open and dignified exterior. Any act, 
no matter how disgraceful, if attended with success, will make 
them perfectly happy. " The Bechuana character is frank and 
sociable, which, however, does not appear to rise from benevo- 
lence of disposition so much as from a degree of etiquette and 
habits arising from relationship and docility." Like most bar- 
barians, their political wisdom consists in duplicity and petty 
cunning ; and their ordinary wars are merely predatory incur- 
sions upon weaker neighbors, for the purpose of carrying off 
cattle with as little exposure as possible of their own lives. 



372 THIEVISH PROPENSITIES. 

They are exceedingly vindictive and revengeful ; but, 
if the injured party be propitiated with gifts, and the ene- 
my acknowledge the error of his doings, apparent cordiality 
and unanimity generally succeed to the most inveterate 
hatred. 

From the king to the slave, theft is a prevailing vice with the 
Bechuanas ; and, from what I have seen of them, I am confident 
that the wealthiest and the most exalted amongst them would 
not hesitate to steal the shirt off one's back, could he effect it 
without being compromised. Their pilfering habits know no 
bounds ; and they carry on the game with much dexterity. 
When grouped about our camp fires, I have known them to 
abstract the tools with which we have been working ; nay, in- 
deed, the very knives and forks from our plates. Once, they 
actually took the meat out of the pot, as it was boiling on the 
fire, substituting a stone! They will place their feet over any 
small article lying on the ground, burying it in the sand with 
their toes ; and, if unable to carry it away at the time, they re- 
turn to fetch it at a more convenient period. 

I have suffered cruelly from their thievish propensities. 
When at the Lake, they deprived me of almost the whole of my 
wardrobe, besides numerous other articles. Not liking to make 
a disturbance, and knowing the uselessness of complaining, I 
bore my misfortunes for a time with patience; but there is a 
limit to everything. Finding one morning, that a bag, contain- 
ing no less than forty pounds of shot (a most invaluable treasure 
to me) had disappeared in a mysterious manner, I could no 
longer restrain my rage. We tracked the thief to the water ; 
but here, of course, all our efforts to follow him further were 
frustrated. I then proceeded direct to the Chief, and repre- 
sented to him, in the strongest colors, the abominable conduct 
of his people, who robbed me with impunity under his very 
eyes, adding, that their behavior was the more flagitious, as I 
had loaded both him and his men with presents, and treated 
them with undeviating kindness. To my astonishment and 
disgust, he laughed outright in my face, and told me that he 
could not control his men in this respect. Indeed, his own re- 
lations would play him the same trick. 

" So much the more disgraceful to you," I remarked ; adding, 
" that he might rest assured I would take good care to tell my 
countrymen of the villainous conduct of the people at Lake 
Ngami." 

" Well," he replied, " I really cannot assist you in this matter, 
but will give you wholesome advice — and my authority for act- 



DRESS GREAT SNUFF-TAKERS. 37o 

frig on it ; that is, to hang on the nearest tree the first man you 
catch stealing." 

He said this with so much coolness, indifference, and good- 
humor, that I could not, vexed as I was, refrain from smiling ; 
and, half reconciled, I turned away from him, exclaiming — 
" Well, Lecholetebe, you are an incurable rogue !" 

That the people really did purloin articles' from their own 
chief, I had an instance when at the Lake. Entering a 
trader's hut one day, I observed some beautiful hippopotamus 
teeth, and, on inquiring how he had become possessed of them, 
he replied, " why, Lecholetebe has just asked the same question. 
They were stolen from the chief by his own uncle this very 
morning, who sold them to me as his individual property, not 
above half an hour ago." 

The attire of the Bechuanas is scanty enough. Those, how- 
ever, who have had much intercourse with Europeans, begin to 
adopt their mode of dress ; but the women, contrary to custom, 
are very tenacious of their peculiar toilet, apparently preferring 
the garb of mother Eve. The appearance of the ladies is mas- 
culine and far from prepossessing. Their figures are usually 
short, stout, and clumsy, which is still further increased by the 
vast numbers of beads worn by the more wealthy, which hang 
in cumbrous coils round the waist and neck. Their wrists, 
arms, and ankles, moreover, are encircled by rings of copper, 
iron, and brass, of various forms and sizes. They delight in 
finery ; and, besides the decoration of their own persons, they 
profusely ornament their skin, shirts, and cloaks — the whole 
being bedaubed with masses of fat and red ochre. "Their 
naturally woolly hair is twisted in small cords, and matted with 
the above substances into apparently metallic pendules, which, 
being of equal length, assume the appearance of a skull-cap or 
inverted bowl of steel." 

Notwithstanding the Bechuanas acknowledge us to be a supe- 
rior race to themselves, they have no hesitation to pronounce 
many of our habits and customs both clumsy and troublesome. 
They laugh at us for putting our legs and arms into bags, and 
using buttons for the purpose of fastening bandages round our 
bodies, instead of suspending them as ornaments from the neck, 
or hair of the head. Once initiated in the use of these things, 
however, they are but too glad to benefit by them. To wash 
the body, instead of lubricating it with grease and red ochre, 
seems to them a disgusting custom ; and cleanliness about one's 
food, house, bedding, etc., often creates their mirth and ridicule. 

The Bechuanas are great snuff-takers, and they indulge in 



374 SMOKIN G O CCUPATIONS. 

the luxury to excess. Sharing the contents of your snuff-box 
with a stranger is almost the greatest compliment that can be paid 
to him. Knowing their propensity in this respect, I brought 
with me a large supply ; but, on my arrival at the Lake, was 
astonished to find that they scarcely deigned to look at it. I 
soon discovered the cause of their singular abstinence, which 
arose simply from the article not being sufficiently pungent. 
Unless it forces tears into their eyes, they look upon snuff as 
worthless. 

The way in which the Bechuanas themselves manufacture 
snuff is singular enough. A piece of tobacco being presented 
to a man, two stones are forthwith procured, between which 
the weed is carefully ground, and, when of sufficient firmness, a 
quantity of wood-ash is added, which, to their nostrils, consti- 
tutes the very perfection of snuff. When the amalgamation of 
the ingredients is perfected, every one presses eagerly forward 
to have a pinch. Each fills the palm of his hand with the mix- 
ture, and scoops it into the nose with a peculiarly shaped iron 
or ivory spoon, hung round the neck, drawing every grain lei- 
surely up into the nostrils in such abundance as to force big 
tears into the eyes, thus proving the extent of the enjoyment. 
" Worse than barbarian would that man be esteemed who would 
wantonly interrupt a social party so employed." Their greasy 
finders constitute their handkerchiefs on such occasions, and their 
faces, after one of these " snuff-floods," may not inaptly be likened 
to a dewy and furrowed field. Their snuff-boxes are either the 
kernel of the palm-fruit, hollowed out, or a diminutive gourd ; 
and, like the ladles, are suspended round the neck, though, 
sometimes, they are secured to the arm above the elbow. 

The Bechuanas smoke ; but it can hardly be said to be a 
fashionable vice among them. This is, at least, as regards the 
men — for the women, on the contrary, are inveterate smokers — 
a habit (as already mentioned when speaking of the Hill-Dama- 
ras) often productive of serious bodily disorders. 

The occupations of the men consist chiefly in going to war, 
hunting, preparing fur and skins for carosses, milking the cows, 
etc. ; whilst those of the women are by far the heaviest — namely, 
the erection of houses, collecting and bringingfuel, tilling, sowing, 
reaping, thrashing and grinding the corn — not to mention the 
heavy task of rearing a family. While cultivating the ground, 
I have often seen a woman, with one or two babies fastened to 
her back, under a scorching sun. Yet, notwithstanding all 
these exhausting and galling duties, they would be amazed 
were a person to tell them that a state of "single blessedness" 



GARDENING AND AGRICULTURE COMMERCE. 375 

would be preferable to that of being the drudge of a haughty 
and indolent husband. 

" While standing near the wife of one of the grandees," writes 
Mr. Moffat, " who, with some female companions, was building 
a house, and making preparations to scramble, by means of a 
branch, on to the roof, I remarked that they ought to get their 
husbands to do that part of the work. This set them all into a 
roar of laughter. Mahuto, the queen, and several of the men 
drawing near, to ascertain the cause of the merriment, the 
wives repeated my — to them — strange and ludicrous proposal, 
when another peal of mirth ensued. Mahuto, who was a sensi- 
ble and shrewd woman, stated that the plan, though hopeless, 
was a good one, as she often thought our custom was much better 
than theirs. It was reasonable that woman should attend to 
household affairs, and the lighter parts of labor; while man, 
wont to boast of his superior strength, should employ his energy 
in more laborious occupations ; adding, she wished I would give 
their husbands medicine to make them do the work." 

The Bechuanas, who inhabit the shores of the Ngami, are 
rich in sheep and goats, but possess comparatively few horned 
cattle. Like other tribes of that nation, they are excessively 
fond of their oxen, but more particularly prize their cows, which 
scarcely anything can induce them to part with. Indeed, they 
will readily give ivory, when plentiful, in exchange for cows. 

Gardening and agriculture are much practiced by the Bechu- 
anas. These occupations are conducted in nearly a similar 
manner as that described amongst the Ovambo. The vegeta- 
bles and the grain are also very much the same. 

The only marketable articles, as yet ascertained at the Lake, 
are ostrich feathers, furs, and skins of various sorts, rhinoceros- 
horns, and ivory (elephant and hippopotamus). The staple arti- 
cles of exchange are beads, and more especially ammunition. 
Clothing is as yet but very little in demand, the people not be- 
ing sufficiently advanced in civilization to care for such a luxury. 
Even beads are not sought after with the avidity they used to 
be, such quantities having of late been exported to the Lake 
country, that (to use a vulgar, but very emphatic expression of 
Lecholetebe) " the women," who chiefly wear beads, " grunt 
under their burdens like pigs." No visitor, however, should be 
entirely without them. All large beads are useless. Small 
beads of the following colors, pink, dull-white, light-green, 
brick-colored, light-blue, dark-blue, and yellow, are chiefly in 
demand. 

The Bechuanas of the Lake are fond of the chase, and almost 



376 HUNTING AND FISHING. 

daily parties are sent out to provide for the chief's table. But, 
though possessed of a great number of fire-arms, few of the men 
have as yet attained any proficiency in their use. By far the 
greater portion of animals slain are obtained by means of pit- 
falls dug by the bushmen and the Bayeye along the banks of the 
rivers. As many as thirty to forty pit-falls may be seen extend- 
ing in one continuous line. 

Though the finny tribe is pretty numerous in the Lake and its 
rivers, none of the Bechuanas take the trouble to catch them. 
The conquered race, the Bayeye, however, are very expert and 
industrious fishermen. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

DEPARTURE FOR LIBEBE THE CANOE THE LAKE REACH THE TEOGE 

ADVENTURE WITH A LECHE LUXURIOUS VEGETATION EXUBERANCE OP 

ANIMAL LIFE BUFFALOES THE KOODOO HIS HAUNTS PACE FOOD 

FLESH HIDE DISPOSITION GREGARIOUS HABITS THE CHASE. 

As Lecholetebe proved true to his word, with regard to pro- 
viding me with men and boats, I was able, after only a tew 
days' stay at the Lake, to proceed on my exploring tour to the 
north. To the last moment, however, the chief and his people 
endeavored to dissuade me from the attempt, urging, amongst 
other reasons, the enormous windings of the Teoge, which would 
prevent me from reaching my destination for many months ; as, 
also, the great number of hippopotami, which they represented 
as the most savage and voracious of beasts. 

I did not give much credit to the story of these men, not 
having the least faith in their word. I told them that, with 
regard to the sinuosities of the stream, I hoped to overcome that 
difficulty by patience ; and, as to the sea-cows, if they really 
were such monsters as described, I assured them I was quite 
confident that my black followers (pointing to the boatmen), to 
whom they were accustomed, would be first swallowed, which 
would give me time to escape. With this rude joke, which 
highly pleased my uututored audience, I stepped into the canoe, 
and, waving my hand in token of leave to my men and the chief, 
I launched forth on the Zouga. 

The canoe in which I embarked (and they are all somewhat 
similarly constructed) was but a miserable craft. It consisted 
of the trunk of a tree, about twenty feet long, pointed at both 
ends, and hollowed out by means of fire and a small hatchet. 



378 THE C A N O E R EACH THE TEOGE. 

The natives are not at all particular as to the shape of the canoe. 
The after-part of some, that have come under my notice, would 
form an angle of near forty-five degrees with the stem ! Never- 
theless, they were propelled through the water by the Bayeye 
(my boatmen were of that nation) with considerable speed and 
skill. 

The " appointments" of the canoe consist of a paddle and a 
pole, ten or twelve feet in length. The paddle-man sits well in 
the stern, and attends mostly to the steering ; whilst his com- 
rade, posted at the head of the canoe, sends her along, by means 
of the pole, with great force and skill. 

The natives, however, rarely venture any distance from the 
shore in their frail skiffs. It was said that they had made 
several attempts to cross the widest part of the Lake, but had 
never succeeded. A party, consisting of ten or twelve canoes, 
hazarded the experiment a few years previous to its discovery by 
Europeans, but were not again heard of, from which it was 
concluded that they had been overtaken by a storm, and perish- 
ed. After about an hour's paddling, the broad expanse of the 
Lake lay before me, glittering in all the beauty and softness 
produced by reflection of the warm rays of a tropical sun. It 
was, indeed, a luxury, after so much traveling in the burning 
desert, to be able, at last, to float upon 

" The glassy, cool, translucent wave ;" 

and the pleasure was increased by my partiality to water — an 
element with which I had become familiar in the early stages 
of boyhood, and on which I have spent some of my happiest 
days. 

As I felt the cool breeze fanning my cheeks, new life seemed 
to stir within me, and my heart beat high with joyous excite- 
ment. 

Our party, at starting, consisted of only three or four canoes ; 
but, as we proceeded on the voyage, the number increased, and 
ultimately amounted to about a dozen. 

In consequence of the frail structure of our craft, and the 
boatmen's tenacity in keeping near the shore, we were two days 
in getting from the Zouga to the western extremity of the Lake, 
although, in reality, it is only one good day's voyage. It was 
not, therefere, until the third day that we reached the chief 
entrance of the mouth of the Teoge (for here the river spreads 
out into several branches), where there is a bar. The water was 
so low on it that, although the stream was fast rising at the time 



ADVENTURE WITH A LECHfe. 379 

(August), we were forced to draw the canoes across it by main 
force. It is true, we might have avoided the inconvenience by 
proceeding a mile or two to the westward, where a channel 
exists that is said to be navigable at all seasons. 

Our voyage across the Lake was attended with no incident 
worth recording ; but, on reaching the point just mentioned, I 
had a little adventure with a leche, hundreds of which might be 
seen grazing and sporting amongst the shallows and the numer- 
ous little islets of the Teoge. 

I had gone in advance of my party in the hope of obtaining 
a shot ; but, though I met with vast numbers of animals, the 
openness of the ground prevented me from getting within range. 
Being quite tired by my severe, but fruitless exertions, I was 
resting on the rifle, contemplating the novel and striking scene, 
— the Lake with its broad blue waters, its finely wooded shores, 
the varied and vast herds of animals ; the Teoge with its nu- 
merous little channels and sedgy shores — when I saw, a little 
a-head of me, two magnificent stag leches approaching each 
other, evidently with no friendly intentions. I was right in my 
conjecture ; for, in a few seconds afterwards, they were engaged 
in combat. Taking advantage of this lucky incident, I ap- 
proached, unperceived, within a dozen paces, when I quickly 
dropped on one knee and took a deliberate aim at the shoulder 
of the nearest; but, just as I pulled the trigger, he received a 
violent thrust from his antagonist which made him swerve to 
one side, and the consequence was, that the ball, instead of 
piercing his heart, merely smashed one of his hind legs. The 
animals, nevertheless, were so intently engaged, that, notwith- 
standing the report of the gun, and the wounded state of one of 
them (he probably attributed this to his adversary), they did 
not observe me. Throwing aside the rifle, I drew my hunting 
knife, and, thus armed, rushed upon the combatants. Just, 
however, as I was about to bury the fatal weapon in the flank 
of one of the animals, they both suddenly became aware of me, 
and fled precipitately. The wounded beast at once made for 
the river, which was hard by, and, though it was running very 
swiftly at this point — perhaps not less than four or five miles an 
hour — he plunged into the water. 

Not being then aware of the aquatic habits of this species of 
antelope, I was very much astonished, and, for a while, thought 
the beast would surely be carried away by the violence of 
the current and drowned. But I was soon undeceived ; for he 
struck bravely out for the opposite shore, his course being 
marked with streaks of crimson. On gaining the bank, he gave 



3S0 DEATH OF THE BEAST. 

one glance behind him, shook his bloody and drizzling coat, and 
made off. I was determined, however, not to be beaten ; and, 
as I had nothing on but a pair of trowsers and a flannel shirt, I 
threw myself, as I was, into the stream, and soon succeeded in 
reaching the opposite bank, when I at once started in pursuit. 

In this way, swimming and wading alternately, several rivu- 
lets, swamps, and dykes were crossed and recrossed ; but, for 
a long time, the result was doubtful. At last, however, the poor 
animal slackened his pace, staggered, and lay down, but again 
proceeded, though apparently with pain and difficulty. Seeing 
this, I redoubled my exertions, and having succeeded in turning 
him towards the Lake, I drove him right into the water, which 
was here shallow, and where he several times stuck fast in the 
mud. I now felt sure of my quarry; and having approached 
sufficiently near, I seized him by the wounded leg, and severed 
the tendon at the knee-joint. The struggle between us now 
became severe. On trying to lay hold of his horns, which were 
most formidable weapons, with the intention of cutting his 
throat, he struck out with so much violence, as to upset me, 
and I was nearly smothered with mud and water. But the 
poor creature's course was run. His loss of blood and crippled 
state soon enabled me to put an end to his miseries. He was a 
noble old stag — the finest antelope of the species that I ever 
shot, and they were many ; he well rewarded me for all my ex- 
ertions. 

After passing the bar at the mouth of the Teoge, the depth 
of the water increased, and the current flowed with less velocity 
— from two to three miles per hour, I should say. For the first 
few days' journey, the country presented a rather dreary and 
monotonous appearance, being frequently flooded for many 
miles ; thus converting the land on both sides into extensive 
reedy marshes, only occasionally relieved by a pleasant group 
of the date and the fan-palm. The banks were in many places 
so low, that when bivouacking on shore, we often slept in the 
water. Even where the banks rose a few feet above the surface, 
they were entirely undermined by the stream ; and if a stick 
was thrust through, water immediately appeared in the hole. 
Fuel was exceedingly scarce, and could only be purchased from 
the natives (thinly scattered along its banks), who not unfre- 
quently brought it from a very great distance. 

On the fourth day, the landscape assumed a more pleasing 
aspect ; the banks of the river became higher, and were richly 
covered with a rank vegetation. There was the fan-palm, the 
date, the black-stemmed mimosa, the wild and wide-spreading 



LUXURIANT VEGETATIO IV A NIMiL LIFE 



381 



sycamore, the elegant and dark-foliaged moshoma, and a variety 
of other beautiful, often to me new, trees — many yielding an 
abundance of palatable and nourishing fruit. Timbo, who ac- 
companied me, recognized no less than six or seven kinds of 
fruit-trees, indigenous to the east coast of Africa and the adjacent 
countries. The arboreal scenery, indeed, in some places exceeded 
in beauty anything that I had ever seen. I could have spent days 
under the shade of some of these ornamental trees, resounding at 
times with the wild notes of birds, whilst in the distance might 
be seen herds of the finest of the antelope tribe. Yet common 
prudence forbids the traveler to tarry. When the stream, after 
the annual overflow, begins to subside, noxious effluvia are emit- 
ted, carrying death along with them. Such is the climate of 
Africa ! 




ASCENDING THE TEOGE. 



Animal life was almost on a par with the exuberant vege- 
tation. Rhinoceroses, hippopotami, buffaloes, sassabys, harte- 
beests, pallahs, reed-bucks, leches, etc., were constantly seen ; 
and every day some game animal or other was shot. Thus I 
was able to support and satisfy our large and hungry party, now 
consisting of fifty or sixty individuals. One fine afternoon we 
came to a place where the tracks of buffaloes were unusually 
numerous; and, having hitherto seen little of that animal, I 
determined to halt for a day or two, in the hope not only of 
becoming better acquainted with it, but of having good sport.- 
The surrounding scenery, besides, was attractive, which was an 



382 A PANIC 

additional inducement to devote a short time to rest and amuse- 
ment. 

The first night that I passed at a "skarm," was a failure in 
respect of game, owing, probably, to my being to windward of 
the point whence the buffaloes were likely to come, who, get- 
ting scent of me from a distance, did not venture to approach 
my place of concealment. A small herd of these animals, how- 
ever, came within range of Timbo, whom I had also placed in 
ambush some little way from me ; but, as usual, he missed, 
and they all went off unhurt. 

Eeturning to camp the following morning, the natives, on 
hearing of our ill luck, looked so hungry and unhappy withal, 
that although I stood greatly in need of rest and refresh- 
ment, I again shouldered my rifle, and started off in search 
of game. 

On this occasion, I was accompanied by about a score of 
natives. A couple of pallahs, and a koodoo, were soon bag- 
ged ; but a noble sassaby that we met with, got off unscathed. 

Afterwards, we searched long without finding anything ; but 
the numerous tracks of buffaloes testified that this part of the 
country was a favorite haunt of those animals. At last, we 
came to the skirts of a dense thicket ; and, peering amongst the 
bushes, I presently espied several dark objects on the ground, 
which at once struck me must be buffaloes. Placing my finger 
on my lips, as a sign that silence was required, and pointing in 
the direction of the dark objects, I whispered the word " onja," 
meaning buffalo. Not the presence of his Satanic Majesty 
could have caused greater consternation amongst my followers ; 
for no sooner was the magic word uttered, than one and all of 
them wheeled about, and made a headlong retreat. One of the 
men was carrying a heavy rifle of mine, and wishing to get 
possession of it, I followed in their footsteps. But this made 
bad worse ; for, seeing me also running, and thinking the enemy 
was at their heels, they redoubled their pace ; nor did they 
stop until at a most respectful distance from the thicket. It 
was really absurd to see us thus endeavoring to outrun each 
other. 

Having, at length, overtaken the men, and secured my rifle, 
I returned to the spot whence I had first observed the suspici- 
ous objects ; but, though I approached to within a dozen paces 
of them, I was unable, from the denseness of the cover, to make 
out their identity. 

A tree was hard by ; and, in the hope of obtaining a better 
view, I at once ascended it. But in this matter I was disap- 



THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 383 

pointed ; for, even when thus elevated, I could see no better 
than from the ground. As the only mode left me of satisfying 
my doubts, I now fired into the midst of the dark objects in 
question ; but not a living thing stirred. For a moment, I 
fancied I must have been in error, and that what I had taken 
for animals, were neither more nor less than huge stones. How- 
ever, to set the point at rest, after reloading, I sent a second 
ball in the same direction as the first ; and this time to some 
purpose ; for, at the report of the gun, up sprung to their feet 
four magnificent male buffaloes ; and, after tossing their heads 
proudly, and sniffing the air for a moment, they broke cover in 
good style, and, to all appearance, unhurt. I never saw them 
again. 

Following leisurely on their tracks, in order to ascertain 
whether any of the beasts were hurt, a herd of buffaloes — at 
least two hundred in number — suddenly rushed past us with the 
violence of a tornado, breaking down and crashing everything 
that opposed their headlong career ; and raising so great a cloud 
of dust as nearly to conceal their dark forms from view. I fired 
into the midst of them, at random, and had the satisfaction to 
see a cow drop to the shot. 

The report of the rifle brought the whole herd almost imme- 
diately to a stand ; and, facing round, they confronted us in 
one dark mass. Taking advantage of a tree at some little 
distance a-head, I stalked to within about one hundred and fifty 
paces of this formidable phalanx. Resting the gun on a branch, 
I took a steady aim at the leading bull ; but though I very dis- 
tinctly heard the bullet strike him, he did not flinch in the 
slightest degree. 

One of the natives having by this time mustered courage to 
steal up to me with my rifle, I fired a second time, though at 
another of the herd, but with no better result. Six several 
times, at the least, did I repeat the dose ; and, though on each 
occasion the ball told loudly on the animal's body, neither it, 
nor any one of the herd (strange as it may appear) budged an 
inch ! They seemed to be chained to the spot by some invisi- 
ble power, eyeing me all the while with an ominous and sinis- 
ter look. Their strange and unaccountable bearing puzzled me 
beyond measure. I expected every instant to see them charge 
down upon me. But even had this happened — though I am 
free to confess I felt anything but comfortable — my personal 
safety would not, perhaps, have been much endangered, as by 
ascending the tree against which I was leaning, I should have 
been out of harm's way. However, I was not driven to this 



384 THE KOODOO. 

extremity; for, whilst about to ram down another ball, the 
whole herd suddenly wheeled about, and, with a peculiar 
shrieking noise, tails switching to and fro over their backs, 
and heads lowered almost to the ground, they made off at a 
furious pace. 

On proceeding to the spot where the buffaloes had been 
standing, I observed large patches of blood on the ground, and 
felt convinced that both the animals at which I had fired must 
have been severely, if not mortally, wounded. We followed 
their tracks for a considerable distance, but saw no more of 
them. From information received from the bushmen at a 
subsequent period, however, there is little doubt that both per- 
ished. 

The night closing in, I determined on once more lying in 
ambush. I waited long in vain ; but at last I observed a 
solitary buffalo — an immense bull — slowly and cautiously 
approaching my hiding-place, stopping every now and then to 
listen. When so near the " skarm" as almost to touch it, 
I pulled the trigger, but, to my great annoyance, the gun 
snapped. On hearing the click, the animal wheeled about, and 
hurriedly retreated ; but, after proceeding about forty paces, he 
suddenly halted, and, turning partially round, exposed his broad- 
side. Having, in the interim, put on another cap, I took 
advantage of his favorable position, and again pulled the trig- 
ger. This time I succeeded in placing a bullet well in the 
beast's shoulder. The instant he received the shot, he leaped 
high into the air, and then plunged violently forward. Imme- 
diately afterwards I heard a deep moaning in the direction he 
had taken — an unmistakable sign that he was mortally hurt. 
Nevertheless, what with the severe lesson I had recently 
received from the black rhinoceros, and the well-known sav- 
age nature of a wounded buffalo, I did not think it prudent 
to follow him. The next morning, however, search was made, 
when he was found dead within less than a hundred yards of 
my " skarm," the ball having pierced his heart. 

Koodoos were also occasionally seen and killed. Of all that 
varied and beauteous form of animal life, to be found in the 
boundless woods and plains of tropical South Africa, the koo- 
doo is unquestionably the most distinguished for elegance and 
gracefulness, united with strength. The height of the male at 
the shoulder is about four feet. The general color of his body 
is a " rufous gray," marked with several white bars over the 
back and croup. The male carries his exquisitely formed 
head, ornamented with ponderous spiral horns of about three 



ITS HAUNTS. 387 

feet or more in length, very erect, which gives him an air of 
nobility and independence. The koodoo, in short, is a perfect 
picture ; and, " when standing broadside on, is decidedly one of 
the grandest looking antelopes in the world." 

The koodoo is not uncommon throughout the more wooded 
districts of Damara-land ; but from its leading a very secluded 
life, it is not so often seen as others of the antelope tribe. His 
favorite haunts are the stony slopes of hills, overgrown with 
brushwood. In localities not much frequented by man, how- 
ever, and in the early part of the day, he may be seen in more 
open ground, on the outskirts of woods, borders of vleys, and 
banks of rivers. 

His gait is very graceful ; but his pace, which consists of a 
moderately fast gallop, is less elegant. When pursued, he 
clears, with considerable agility, bushes, stones, and other minor 
obstructions that may oppose his course, his leaps being often of 
very considerable extent. 

His food consists chiefly of leaves, buds, and the young shoots 
of trees and bushes. He seems capable of going a very long time 
without water, and only occasionally frequents the pool. 

The koodoo produces only one young at a time. 

His flesh, when in good condition, is excellent, and the soup, 
or bouillon, made from it is delicious. The marrow extracted 
from the bones is highly prized by the natives, who deem it 
better than that obtained from any other animal. They, con- 
sequently, devour it greedily, and often without any kind of 
preparation. 

The hide of the koodoo is greatly valued, as well by the hunt- 
er as the colonist. It is rather thin, but exceedingly tough and 
pliable, and will stand more wear and tear than any other hide 
of the same substance. It is chiefly used for shoes, lashes of 
whips, thongs, straps, and harness in general. A koodoo hide, 
well prepared according to the custom of the country, is worth 
from twenty to thirty shillings ; and, being much in request 
amongst the farmers, is no despicable article of commerce for 
home consumption. 

The koodoo is naturally of a shy and timid nature ; but the 
male, when hotly pressed or wounded, will not unfrequently 
face about, and even attack his pursuer. 

This species of antelope is gregarious, though seldom seen in 
large herds, five or six being the usual number. The males are 
frequently met with singly. 

As already seen, when taken young, this animal is easily do- 
mesticated, and becomes very tame. Notwithstanding, to the 



388 STALKING THE KOODOO. 

best of my belief, no specimen lias ever been brought to this 
country alive. 

From the koodoo's secluded habits, fewer of these animals 
are killed — as regards Damara-land, at least — than any other 
species of antelope indigenous to Southern Africa. He is some- 
times hunted on horseback ; and if a hunter has the good 
fortune to meet with one in a favorable and open locality, there 
is no great difficulty in running it down ; but, as the animal 
holds, for the most part, to hilly and stony ground, and such as 
is wooded withal, the chase — even if successful — usually proves 
an arduous one. 

The preferable course is to hunt it on foot. Stalking the 
koodoo was a favorite pursuit of mine, and many a noble stag 
have I thus laid low. But, on account of the wooded nature of 
the country it inhabits, the difficulty of approaching unper- 
ceived, within gunshot, is very considerable, and it is greatly 
increased by Nature, who, with her usual wonderful provision, 
has provided the koodoo with the most exquisite sense of hear- 
ing. Its large, prominent ears apparently act as a kind of focus, 
against which any unusual noise or sound is quickly arrested in 
its progress. 

The bushmen have a way of their own of hunting the koo- 
doo, viz., by running it down, not by speed of foot, but by 
gradually exhausting it. When a hunt of this kind is decided on, 
a number of these people assemble, armed with assegais, etc. 
Having started the animal, one of the party takes up its " spoor" 
at a quick pace, the rest following more leisurely. On feeling 
fatigued, the leading man drops behind his comrades, and the 
next in order takes up the pursuit, and so on, until they secure 
the prize. Sometimes this is effected in the course of a few 
kours ; but it happens, also, that the chase lasts for a whole 
day, or even longer. All depends on the ground. If stony or 
rocky, the men have an immense advantage over the animal, 
who, under such circumstances, soon becomes foot-sore, lies 
down repeatedly, and, after a while, is found unable to rise, 
when he is quickly dispatched. The women and children 
carry water on these occasions for the hunters, so that, should 
the animal prove very enduring, his pursuers may not be neces- 
sitated to give up the chase for want of that indispensable 
necessary. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

TSETSE FLY CONFINED TO PARTICULAR SPOTS ITS SIZE ITS DESTRUC- 

TIVENESS FATAL TO DOMESTIC ANIMALS SYMPTOMS IN THE OX "WHEN 

BITTEN BY THE TSETSE. 

During my bunting excursions along the Teoge, I encountered, 
for the first time, that most extraordinary of insects, the tsetse 
(glossina morsitans, Westw.). 1 Among the several scourges to 
which the traveler is subjected in the South African wilderness, 
one of the greatest is this insect ; not, it is true, as to the way- 
farer's own person ; for he himself escapes almost unscathed, 
but as regards the horses and cattle. 

The tsetse is found chiefly in the bush, or amongst the reeds , 
but rarely in the open country. It is confined to particular 
spots, and is never known to shift its haunts. Thus, cattle may 
be seen grazing securely on one side of a river, whilst the op- 
posite bank swarms with the insect. Should the natives, who 
are well acquainted with localities frequented by the fly, have 
occasion to change their cattle-posts, and are obliged to pass 
through tracts of country where it exists, they choose, I am 
told, a moonlight winter's night ; as, during the hours of rest in 
the cold season, it does not bite. 

In size the tsetse is somewhat less than the common blue fly 
that settles on meat ; but it wings are longer. Yet, though so 
small and insignificant in appearance, its bite carries with it a 
poison equal to that of the most deadly reptile. Many is the 
traveler who, from his draught-oxen and horses having been de- 

1 For a scientific description of this insect, see " Proceedings of the Zoological 
Society," No. ccxvii. 



390 TSETSE FLY FATAL TO DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

stroyed by this pestiferous insect, has not only had the object 
of his journey completely marred, but his personal safety endan- 
gered by the loss of this means of conveyance. 




TSET3E FLY. 



Very lately, indeed, a party of Griquas, about twenty in 
number, who were elephant-hunting to the northwest of the 
Ngami, and who were provided with three wagons and a large 
number of trek, or draught-oxen, lost, prior to their return 
to the Lake, all their cattle by the bite of the tsetse. Some 
horses, brought with them to further their sport, shared a similar 
fate. 

The very same year that this disaster happened to the Gri- 
quas, a party of Englishmen, amongst whom was my friend, 
Mr. Frederick Green, attempted to reach Libebe ; but they had 
only proceeded seven or eight days' journey to the north of the 
Ngami, when both horses and cattle were bitten by the fly in 
question, and the party were, in consequence, compelled to 
make a hasty retreat. One of the number, I am told, was thus 
deprived of as many as thirty-six horses, excellent hunters, and 
all sustained heavy losses in cattle. 

There are large tribes which cannot keep either cattle or 
sheep because the tsetse abounds in their country. But it is 
only fatal to domestic animals, as wild animals feed undisturbed 
in parts infested by the insect. Yet many of them, such as oxen 
and buffaloes, horses and zebras, dogs and jackals, etc., possess 
somewhat the same nature. Moreover, it bites man, and no 
danger follows. The sensation experienced has not inaptly been 
likened to the sting of a flea. 1 The problem to be solved is, 



1 When allowed to settle on the hand of a man, all it is observed to do is to in- 
sert its proboscis a little further than seems necessary to draw blood, It then 



SYMPTOMS IN THE OX WHEN BITTEN. 391 

what quality exists in domestication which renders domestic ani- 
mals obnoxious to this poison ? " Is man not as much a domestic 
animal as a dog? Is it the tsetse at all which kills the animal?" 

Captain Vardon, of the Indian army, one of the earlier pioneers 
of the more interior parts of Southern Africa, was amongst the 
first to decide the point ; for he rode his horse up a hill infested 
by tsetse, and in twenty days his doubts were removed by the 
death of his horse. 

According to the statement of the celebrated explorers, 
Messrs. Oswell and Livingstone, who were severe sufferers by the 
tsetse, the following symptoms are observed in the ox when 
bitten : — the eye runs, the glands under the throat swell, the 
coat loses its gloss, there is a peculiar flaccidity of the muscles 
generally, and emaciation commences, which proceeds unchecked 
until — perhaps months after the bite — purging supervenes, and 
the animal perishes of exhaustion. Some die soon after the 
bite is inflicted, especially if they are in good condition, or 
should rain fall ; but, in general, the process of emaciation goes 
on for many weeks. In some cases, the animals become blind 
before they die. 1 

" From what I have seen of the tsetse," writes Mr. Oswell 
to me, " I believe that three or four flies are sufficient to kill a 
full-grown ox. We examined about twenty of ours that were 
bitten and died, and the appearances were similar in all. On 
raising the skin, we perceived a glairy appearance of the muscles 
and flesh, which were much wasted. The stomach and intes- 
tines were healthy ; heart, lungs, and liver, sometimes all, but 
invariably one or the other, much diseased. The heart in 
particular attracted our attention. It was no longer a firm 
and muscular organ, but collapsed readily on compression, and 
had the appearance of flesh that had been steeped in water. 
The blood of the whole carcass was greatly diminished in quan- 
tity. Not more than twenty pints (a small pail full) were 
obtained from the largest ox, and this thick and albuminous ; 
the hands, when plunged into it, came out free of stain. The 
poison would seem to grow in the blood, and, through the blood, 
affect the vital organs. 

partially withdraws the dart, which assumes a crimson hue. The mandibles now 
appear to be agitated ; the shrunken body swells ; and, in a few seconds, the in- 
sect becomes quite full, and quietly abandons its prey. 

1 " One of my steeds," says Gordon Cumming, " died of the tsetse. The head 
and body of the poor animal swelled up in a most distressing manner before he 
died ; his eyes were so swollen that he could not see ; and, in darkness, he neighed 
for his comrades who stood feeding beside him." 



392 FATAL TO DOGS. 

"A curious feature in the case is, that dogs, though reared on 
milk, die if bitten, 1 while calves, and other young sucking ani- 
mals, are safe as long as they suck. Man, and all the wild ani- 
mals, escape with impunity. Can the poison be alkaline, and 
neutralized by the acid ?" 

1 A dog, reared on the meat of game, may be hunted in tsetse districts in 
safety ! 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

THE CROCODILE AN ENGLISHMAN KILLED BY ONE OF THESE MONSTERS 

THE OMOROANGA VAVARRA RIVER HARDSHIPS BEAUTIFUL SCENERY 

LECHOLETeBe's TREACHERY THE REED-FERRY. 

As we journeyed up the Teoge, we frequently observed cro- 
codiles, basking in the sun in the more secluded parts of the 
river. One day, whilst trying to trace a wounded antelope, I 
nearly trod on one of these monsters who was fast asleep. My 
foot was already descending on his tail before I was aware of 
him. Without daring to move, I gently raised the rifle to my 
shoulder, and, with a well-directed ball behind the ear, killed 
him on the spot. 

One does not often hear of crocodiles in these parts seizing on 
human beings when immersed in water, which would seem to 
prove that these animals are " man-eaters" from the compul- 
sion of hunger, rather than from habit. Indeed, I have been 
assured by several persons that there is little danger of being 
attacked, provided one makes a great noise previously to enter- 
ing the water. Accidents, however, do occur. Only a few 

years ago an English gentleman, Mr. R , was carried off by 

one of these horrid creatures. He and his companion, Mr. 

M , who told me the sad story, had encamped on the banks 

of the Zouga ; and, as a number of water-fowl were seen dis- 
porting themselves on the stream, Mr..R proceeded there, 

in the hope of obtaining a shot. He soon succeeded in killing 
several, and amongst the rest a muscovy duck ; but he was 
unable to secure it for want of a boat. 

Whilst looking about for a canoe, he observed a fine antelope 
approaching; and, running quickly towards the wagon, which 



394 THE CROCODILE THE OMOROANGA VAVARRA, 

was hard by, he called out to his men to bring him a rifle. On 
his return to the river, he found that the antelope had escaped. 
He then proceeded towards the spot whence he had shot at the 
duck, which was still floating on the surface. His companion 
having by this time joined him, he expressed his determination 
to possess the bird at any cost, and that he would swim after it. 
He confessed, however, that he felt some doubt about the safety 
of such a proceeding, adding that he had once been witness to 
the death of a man who was seized and destroyed by a shark 
alongside his own boat. Notwithstanding this (his own) opin- 
ion of the risk he was about to incur, and the warning of his 
friend, he undressed and plunged into the stream. Having 
swam a little distance, he was observed to throw himself on his 
back, as if startled at some object beneath him ; but in another 
moment, he was pursuing his course. When, however, he was 
about to lay his hands on the bird, his body was violently con- 
vulsed ; and throwing his arms on high, he uttered a most 
piercing shriek, after which he was seen to be gradually drawn 
under the surface, never to reappear ! 

On the ninth day after we had entered the Teoge, we left the 
principal channel and passed into the Omoroanga (little river) 
Vavarra. This rivulet is merely one of those small branches of 
the main stream (formed by its overflowing its banks) so fre- 
quently met with, and which usually rejoin it after a day or 
two. The Omoroanga Vavarra is only navigable with canoes 
when the Teoge is at its greatest height, and even then the 
navigation is of the most intricate description. The boatmen, 
many of whom were born and bred in the neighborhood, con- 
stantly lose their way. We passed two nights on the Omo- 
roanga, during which time we were exposed to much incon- 
venience and hardship. 

Lecholetebe had placed two canoes at my disposal ; but the 
rascally boatmen had by this time so filled them with their own 
things that no place was left for me. The consequence was, as 
the country was one succession of swamps, lakes, rivulets, and 
quagmires, I found myself early and late immersed in water, 
sometimes swimming, at others wading up to my neck. Indeed, 
from the time that I left my camp on the Zouga, to my return 
to it, a period of about a month, I scarcely knew what it was 
to have a dry thread about me. The only time I could par- 
tially dry my clothes was at night along the bivouac-fire ; but 
then I had to lie down wet. It would have been ruinous to any 
constitution not previously inured to hardships of all kinds. 

But I was compensated for what I lost in comfort by the 



THE AUTHOR'S PLANS MARRED. 395 

beauty of the surrounding scenery. Wherever the soil was 
raised a few feet above the surface of the water, it was covered 
by a rich and majestic vegetation. 

At length, and after about twelve days' voyaging, we reached 
a large village where the great chief of the Bayeye resided. 
This was a charming spot, and one to which the most skillful 
artist would have had some difficulty in doing justice. Located 
on a small island, about two hundred feet long, by one hundred 
in breadth, the village consisted of somewhat more than a 
hundred houses, standing in the midst of a beautiful group of 
elegant fan-palms, and some gigantic wild fruit trees. At the 
foot of the werft, in a semicircle, the clear transparent Teoge 
wound its meandering course. On every side, as far as the eye 
could reach, lay stretched a sea of fresh water, in many places 
concealed from sight by a covering of reeds and rushes of every 
shade and hue; whilst numerous islands, spread over its surface, 
and adorned with rich vegetation, gave to the whole an inde- 
scribably beautiful appearance. This was particularly the case 
at sunrise and sunset, when the luxuriant vegetation received 
additional charms by the brilliant, but softened, rays of a tro- 
pical sun. 

I had been given to understand by Lecholetebe, that the chief, 
at whose werft I had now arrived, was to have provided me 
with other men and other boats. To save time, as also in ac- 
cordance with the men's own wishes, I sent my principal guide 
and others to inform the chieftain of my coming, requesting him 
to get everything ready ; but on reaching the place, the follow- 
ing day, I found, to my utter astonishment, that he, with all his 
people, had set out that very morning to hunt the sea-cow ; and 
no one could, or rather would, inform me when the great man 
was likely to return. 

It now occurred to me that I was deceived, and my suspi- 
cions at once fell upon Lecholetebe. Still hoping I might be 
mistaken, I waited patiently for several days, but to no purpose. 
In the mean time, the women of the village had secretly inform- 
ed Timbo, who, as usual, was a great favorite with the sex, 
that their husbands would to a certainty not return for a month ; 
and that, even then, I could not expect to receive any as- 
sistance from them. I felt excessively mortified at being thus 
basely duped, and at once called on the only man left in the 
place, who, I was informed, was the chiefs brother, and order- 
ed him to tell me, without prevarication, the real state of the 
case. As I had suspected, Lecholetebe was at the bottom of 
the affair. The man declared he had no orders to furnish me 



396 



THE REED-FERRY 



with men and boats, but that, if I insisted on proceeding, he 
was to give a guide to the next tribe, whence I was to find my 
way to Libebe as well as I could, well knowing that such an 
arrangement was quite incompatible with my designs. 

It is impossible to describe my feelings at being thus baffled ; 
as, from the success that had hitherto attended me, I had san- 
guinely hoped it would have been in my power fully to carry 
out all my plans. Here I was, in the midst of an inundated 
country of unknown extent, without men, without conveyances, 
without provisions — in short, without anything necessary for 
such an expedition. Indeed, I was so completely at the mercy 
of the natives, that I could not stir a step without their as- 
sistance. Nevertheless, rather than be thus foiled, I determined 
to risk the utmost, and directed the promised guide to appear 
without delay, declaring my intention of proceeding to Libebe 
on foot. But it was quite clear they had resolved not to let me 
pass beyond them ; for, though I waited several days more, the 
man was not forthcoming. 




^«*afe^' ^ , ---=-^1^-= 



REKD-FERRY.l 



Finding remonstrances unavailing, I had no alternative but 
to retrace my steps; and, accordingly, I requested the tempo- 



' The above wood-cut represents a native in the act of ferrying himself across the 
river on nothing but a bundle of reeds, with sidings and uprights of the same light 
materials. It is a most ingenious contrivance, and, in localities where wood is 
scarce, answers the purpose admirably. 



THE AUTHOR RETRACES HIS STEPS. 397 

rary chief to prepare the canoes to convey me back to the Lake. 
This highly delighted and gratified the wily savage. 

Mortified and annoyed at the shameful manner in which I had 
been treated, I was, nevertheless, glad to have come thus far. 
I had learnt much in this short time (a summary of which will 
be given in the following chapters), which I could not have 
done had I remained at the Lake, to say nothing of the beau- 
tiful, diversified, and novel scenery which almost daily present- 
ed itself to the view- — which alone was a sufficient reward for 
my troubles and anxieties. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

THE BAYEYE THEIR COUNTRY ; PERSONS ; LANGUAGE ; DISPOSITION ; LYING 

AND PILFERING HABITS POLYGAMY PRACTICED AMONGST THE BAYEYE 

THEIR HOUSES ; DRESS ; ORNAMENTS ; WEAPONS ; LIQUORS ; AGRICUL- 
TURE ; GRAIN ; FRUITS ; GRANARIES HUNTING FISHING NETS- -DISEASES 

THE MATSANYANA THE BAVICKO — LIBEBE. 

For a considerable distance to the northward of the chiefs 
werft, the banks of the Teoge are inhabited by Bayeye, and a 
few scattered bushmen, all acknowledging Lecholetebe as their 
chief. Cooley supposes that these people came originally from 
the west coast, and that they have been established in their 
present abode for a long period. Formerly, and before their 
subjugation by the Bechuanas, they must have possessed a large 
territory ; and, even now, the country they occupy is of consid- 
erable extent, consisting, as I believe, of one continued plain, 
intersected by rivers, with extensive marshes. The banks of 
the rivers are, in general, very low ; but wherever they rise a 
few feet above the level of the water, they are shaded by a rank 
and wild vegetation. The trees are of a gigantic size, having 
their stems and branches interwoven with beautiful parasitical 
plants and creepers. 

In person, feature, and complexion, the Bayeye appear closely 
allied to the Ovambo and the Hill-Damaras. 

The language of the Bayeye bears considerable resemblance to 
the Ovaherero ; and has, moreover, some affinity with the dia- 
lects of the east coast, though two or three " klicks" would seem 
to indicate a Hottentot origin. 1 

1 As perhaps many of my readers are interested in philology, I may mention 
that in the " Geographical Journal" of this year I have introduced a short vocabu- 



THE B A YE YE THIEVING PROPENSITIES. 399 

The Bayeye are of a merry and cheerful disposition, and, like 
my friends, the Damaras, are the happiest of creatures, pro- 
vided they have a pot full of flesh and a pipe. These elements 
of human felicity are not, however, peculiar to savages, as may 
be seen in the following stanza of an old song, often chanted by 
our English rustic forefathers : 

" What more can any niandesire, 
Nor sitting by a good coal fire, • . 

And on his knee a pretty wench, 
And on the table a bowl of punch ?'' 

In one respect the English clown has an advantage over the 
barbarian of South Africa, inasmuch as the latter does not 
appear to make any stipulation in favor of a female companion. 

The Bayeye are much given to lying and pilfering, and are 
as suspicious as they are deceitful. As an instance of their 
thievish propensities, I may mention that, when ascending the 
Teoge, they deprived me gradually of almost the entire stock of 
articles of exchange, consisting chiefly of beads. These things 
constituted my only money, and being well aware that without 
it I should not be able to get on, I determined to recover my 
property at all hazards. But, before proceeding to extremes, I 
was anxious to acquire positive proofs of the guilt of my treach- 
erous companions. Accordingly, I ordered my own men to 
mark carefully the different parcels. As soon as the canoes 
arrived at night at the appointed rendezvous (we ourselves, as I 
have mentioned, were walking) we hastened to the shore, and, 
whilst Timbo was ransacking the baggage, I stationed myself at 
the head of the canoe in order to prevent the crew from landing 
until we had ascertained if an}^ pilfering had taken place during 
our absence. 

Scarcely had my servant opened the first pack, before he ex- 
claimed, " Oh, yes, master, the rascals have been there sure 
enough !" Immediately stepping up to the native who was in 
charge of the canoe, I presented my gun, on cock, at his head, 



lary of the Bayeye language. The words, though necessarily few in number, 
have been selected with a view to their utility, and consist chiefly of those de- 
noting family relations, names of the different parts of the body, familiar objects, nu- 
merals, etc. I have at the same time given the corresponding terms in the Otjihe- 
rero (Damara) and the Chjlimanse (a tribe inhabiting the country west of the Por- 
tuguese settlement on the east coast), tff show the striking analogy existing be- 
tween these languages. The nations here mentioned occupy a narrow strip of ter- 
ritory extending obliquely across the continent, from the west coast almost to that 
of the east. 



400 POLYGAMY. 

threatening to blow out his brains if he did not instantly pro- 
duce the stolen goods. A scene of the utmost confusion now 
took place. The men at first appeared inclined to be hostile, 
many seizing their arms, whilst the women were running to and 
fro, crying and howling in a manner which baffles all descrip- 
tion. However, I was determined, come what would, to have 
my property back, and I quietly told them that their menaces 
should be of no avail ; for the first individual who attempted to 
molest me would, to a certainty, be a dead man. And, to give 
effect to my threat, I added, with a significant look at the gun, 
that they well knew I was not much in the habit of missing my 
mark. Conceiving that I was in earnest, they thought better 
of the matter, and in a few seconds I had half a dozen of them 
at my feet, begging I would spare their lives, and promising 
that, if I would not mention the circumstance to their paramount 
chief, Lecholetebe, they would, forthwith, restore the missing 
articles. 

Being but too glad to recover my property on such easy 
terms, I declared myself satisfied, warning them, however, of 
the consequences of any future attempt on their part to steal, 
as I should certainly not again trouble myself about inquiring who 
was the thief, but would simply shoot the first man I came 
across. This had the desired effect ; for they not only left my 
property untouched for the future, but treated me with far more 
civility than they had hitherto manifested. 

The men, excepting when hunting and fishing, in which pur- 
suits, they show great activity, usually lead a very idle life at 
home. All the drudgery falls on the women, who till the 
ground, reap, and afterwards cleanse and grind the corn, etc. 

Respecting their mythology and religion I am so much in the 
dark, that it would not be worth while to communicate to the 
reader the little I know. It is always difficult to obtain informa- 
tion on these subjects from savages ; and, besides, it requires 
both time and a knowledge of their language. This applies 
also, though not to as great extent, to their superstitious no- 
tions, which are numerous, and, as may well be supposed, often 
ridiculous. 

Polygamy prevails amongst the Bayeye, and one not unfre- 
quently finds the more wealthy consoling themselves with half 
a dozen wives. 

They live in large round huts covered with matting made of 
rushes, and constructed in the same manner as those of the 
Namaquas. 

The men have adopted, as in many other things, the dress of 



ORNAMENT S A R M S O CCUPATIO N P R O D U C T S . 403 

their conquerors, the Bechuanas, which consists simply of a 
piece of skin, broad in front, tied round the waist, with a tassel 
attached to it on each side falling down over the hips ; and, in 
addition to this, they wear a skin, or light caross, which they 
accommodate to the body according to the state of the weather. 

The women dress very much like those of the Damaras, viz., 
with a short skin skirt, which, as well as their own persons 
(when they can afford it) is profusely bedecked with beads, and 
various brass, copper, and iron ornaments. But the plate facing 
this page will give a far better idea of the appearance, attire, 
etc., of these people, than can be conveyed in words. 

They are fond of the dance, which is a mimic representation 
of the playful sports and courtships of the different wild animals 
surrounding them. 

The only weapons in use amongst the Bay eye are light javelins, 
having, sometimes, two or three barbs. In addition to this, the 
elders of the nation carry a shield, nearly oval in form, made of 
a single fold of ox-hide ; but they have only become acquainted 
with this means of defense since they were subdued by the 
Bechuanas. To the want of shields they entirely attribute 
their own defeat. 

With regard to their habits, customs, manners, etc., much of 
what has already been said of the Bechuanas may be applied to 
the Bayeye — a natural consequence of subjugation. 

Like most dark-colored nations, they are addicted to intoxi- 
cating liquors. They understand how to brew beer, on which 
they frequently become inebriated. 

The men are inveterate snuff-takers, and the women " dacka"- 
smokers. 

In former times the Bayeye possessed numerous herds of cat- 
tle ; but these passed into the hands of the Bechuanas upon 
their assuming the mastery over the country. They are per- 
mitted, however, to rear a few goats, which they do less for the 
sake of the milk and flesh, than for the skins, which are con- 
verted into sleeping rugs, and carosses for wear. They also 
keep a few barn-door fowls, but apparently of a very ordinary 
breed. 

They derive their chief subsistence from the produce of the 
soil, which is fertile, yielding the necessaries of life in abundance, 
and with little labor. A month or two before the rainy sea- 
son, the ground for cultivation is selected, cleared and slightly 
worked by a small, short hoe, the only agricultural implement 
I have seen used by the Bayeye in tilling. After the first heavy 
rains, they begin to sow the corn, of which there are two kinds 



404 A USEFUL PLANT. 

indigenous to the country, namely, the common " Caffre," and 
another sort, very small-grained, and not unlike canary-seed — a 
description which is akin, as I am informed, to the "• badjera" 
of India. This is more nutritious than the other, and, when 
well ground, makes excellent flour. Tobacco, calabashes, wa- 
ter-melons, pumpkins, beans, and small peas are also grown, as 
well as different kinds of edible earth-fruits, of which the oien- 
gora (motu-o-hatsi, of the Bechuanas, I believe) may be men- 
tioned in particular. This is a sort of bean, having its pods 
under ground. It is well known to the Mosambiques; is exten- 
sively grown by the black population in Mauritius ; and is, I am 
told, no uncommon article of importation at the Cape-of-Good- 
Hope. 

Moreover, the country, as before said, produces a variety of 
wild fruit-trees, which serve no less to beautify the scenery 
than to afford good and wholesome sustenance to the inhabitants. 
Amongst the most handsome and useful trees, the moshoma 
stands, perhaps, preeminent. On account of the great height, 
the straightness of the trunk, and the distance at which it be- 
gius to branch out, the fruit can only be gathered when it falls 
to the ground. It is then exposed to the sun for some time, 
and, when sufficiently dried, is put into a hollow piece of wood 
(a sort of mortar) and pulverized. It is fit for use at any time, 
by simpty mixing it with water, when it is not unlike honey in 
appearance, and has a sweet, agreeable flavor. Strangers, how- 
ever, must use it cautiously at first ; for, if eaten in any large 
quantity, it is apt to derange the stomach. The moshoma in- 
variably grows on the banks of rivers, or in their immediate 
neighborhood, and ma}% with the greatest facility, be conveyed 
down the Teoge to the Lake. The Bayeye use the timber ex- 
tensively for canoe-building, and in the manufacture of utensils. 
I found the moshoma growing in Ovambo-land, and I am also 
given to understand that it is common throughout the countries 
west of the Portuguese settlements on the east coast. 

The Bayeye store their corn and other products of the soil, in 
large baskets, not unlike those of the Ovambo, manufactured 
from palm leaves, and other fibrous and tenacious substances. 

The Bayeye are fond of hunting ; and, as the country abounds 
in game, the spoils of the chase contribute materially to the 
support of the people. They are, moreover, expert fishermen. 
They either strike the fish with a barbed spear, or, more com- 
monly, capture them in nets. These are made from the fibrous 
stalks of a species of aloe, which is found in abundance through- 
out the countries of the Namaquas, Damaras, the Ovambo, and 



THE MATS ANY AN A THE BAVICKO LIBEBE. 405 

others lying to the eastward, but only grows to perfection about 
the Teoge. The fibres are of great tenacity, apparently stronger 
and more flexible than hemp, though requiring less labor and 
attention in its growth and manufacture. Could this plant be 
naturalized, it would, no doubt, prove a valuable acquisition to 
any country. I believe the nets are also occasionally manufac- 
tured from fibrous and tenacious leaves, rushes, and grasses. The 
meshes are knotted the same way as in Europe. 

From the humid nature of the country, the Bayeye, although, 
generally speaking, a healthy race, suffer at times from rheuma- 
tism, and other similar affections. Ophthalmia is also of fre- 
quent occurrence ; and many of the natives bear marks of the 
small-pox. Like the Lake district, the Teoge and the surround- 
ing country is visited by a dangerous fever, which carries off 
many of the natives. 

North of the Bayeye country, we find the Matsanyana ; but I 
have not been able to ascertain whether these people form a 
distinct nation. 

Still further north, that is, beyond the Matsanyana, we hear 
of the Bavicko (or Wavicko) nation, whose capital is called 
Libebe, from which also the chief derives his name. The Gri- 
quas, whom I mentioned when speaking of the water -sheds of 
the Lake, and whom I met and conversed with on the subject, 
say that the country about Libebe is flat and thickly overgrown 
with bush, occasionally relieved by large isolated trees, and that 
the Teoge is there of great width and studded with beautiful 
islands, on which the natives chiefly dwell. 

The Bavicko are represented as an industrious and honest 
people, of agricultural habits. Their mode of dress resembles 
that of the Moviza (a great trading nation in the interior of the 
east coast, and west of the Portuguese settlement). Timbo, 
who was well acquainted with the appearance of the Moviza, on 
hearing a description of the Bavicko, mistook them for the 
former nation. The latter have some slight knowledge of metal- 
lurgy. Iron they procure easily and in abundance from their 
neighbors ; but, from all I can gather, this ore does not seem to 
be indigenous to their own country. 

Libebe appears to be the centre of a great inland trade. 
Amongst other tribes that repair here for the purpose of com- 
merce are the Mambari, a race probably resident in the vicinity 
of the new Portuguese settlement, Little Fish Bay. A strong 
argument in favor of this supposition is, that the Griquas, lately 
alluded to, and who found a party of these men at Libebe, were 
informed by them that their tribe was visited by two different 



406 L I B E B E . 

white nations : by one of them — meaning probably the Portu- 
guese — chiefly for the purpose of purchasing slaves ; by the 
other, most likely the English or Americans, to obtain, by 
barter, ivory and other valuable productions of the country. The 
Mambari bring to Libebe", as articles of exchange, blue and 
striped cotton, baize, beads, and even cattle. 

Again, we find the Ovapangari and Ovapanyama also visiting 
Libebe for trading purposes. These nations, as before men- 
tioned, occupy the country north of Ovambo-land. On our 
visit to the latter in 1851 (G-alton's expedition), we found the 
tribes above-named likewise trading with the Ovambo. The 
Bavicko have, moreover, intercourse with Sebetoane, Lecho- 
letebe, and others. 



CHAPTER XL. 

DEPARTURE FROM THE BAYEYE WERFT THE REED-RAFT THE HIPPOPO- 
TAMUS BEHEMOTH OR HIPPOPOTAMUS WHERE FOUND — TWO SPECIES — 

DESCRIPTION OF HIPPOPOTAMUS APPEARANCE SIZE SWIMS LIKE A 

DUCK FOOD DESTRUCTIVE PROPENSITIES OF THE ANIMAL DISPOSITION 

SAGACITY MEMORY GREGARIOUS HABITS NOCTURNAL HABITS DO- 
MESTICATION FOOD FLESH HIDE rVORY MEDICINAL VIRTUES. 

After about a week's stay at the Bayeye werft, I was once 
more launched on the Teoge, and only regretted that my course 
did not lie to the north instead of to the south. My departure 
afforded a fresh proof of the rascality of the Bayeye. As pre- 
viously mentioned, according to the injunctions of Lecholetebe, 
I was to have two canoes at my disposal ; but, on the day in 
question, the natives unceremoniously deposited me on a raft 
composed solely of reeds ! When I first saw the unshapely 
mass, I could not help smiling ; and it was not until I had set 
my people the example that they ventured to embark. 

This primitive raft, which is in general use amongst the 
Bayeye, either for hunting purposes or for descending the Teoge 
and other rivers, is exceedingly simple in its construction. All 
one has to do is to cut the reeds (the different species of palmyra, 
from their buoyancy, are peculiarly well adapted to the pur- 

f)ose) just above the surface of the water, and to throw them in 
ayers, crosswise, until the heap is of sufficient size to support 
the party. No binding of any kind is requisite ; but fresh 
layers of reeds must occasionally be added to the raft, as, from 
the constant pressure at the top, the reeds get soaked, and the 
air contained in them displaced by water. A stout pole is 
placed upright in the centre of the mass, to which is attached a 



408 THE REED-RAF T B E H E M O T H . 

strong and long rope. "When the voyagers wish to land, this 
rope is taken ashore by one of the men in the canoe that is 
always in tow or on board the raft, and secured to a tree or 
other firm object. 

No small recommendation to the reed-raft, is the extreme 
facility and ease with which it can be constructed. In the 
course of an hour, three or four men can put one together of 
sufficiently large dimensions to support themselves and bag- 
gage. 

This mode of conveyance, though inconvenient enough, is well 
worthy the traveler's attention, and more especially in localities 
where suitable wood for the construction of a common raft is 
difficult to procure — anywhere, in short, where boats or canoes 
are not obtainable. It must be borne in mind, however, that 
the reed-raft is only available where the current is in one's 
favor. 

Though I was at first much disconcerted at the appearance 
of our very primitive looking craft, I soon got accustomed to it, 
and it proved far more comfortable than might have been sup- 
posed. It was much safer, moreover, than our own canoes, one 
or two of which we obtained shortly after our departure. No 
efforts were made to steer or propel the raft, which was left en- 
tirely to the stream. As soon as we were caught by some 
projecting reed-bed — and this was of frequent occurrence — the 
raft immediately swung round and thus disengaged itself, but 
when we came in contact with trees overhanging the river, we 
were more inconvenienced ; for, before we could get clear of 
them, ourselves and baggage were at times nearly swept into the 
water. In this manner, nevertheless, and without serious acci- 
dent, we accomplished about one hundred and fifty miles in 
nine days, entirely by the force of the current, which rarely ex- 
ceeded two miles an hour. 

Whilst descending the Teoge, we met several parties of 
natives in pursuit of the hippopotamus ; the men were em- 
barked on rafts similarly constructed as our own. But before 
describing the manner in which the chase is conducted by these 
people, it may be proper to say a few words regarding the 
natural history of the above animal. 

" Behold now behemoth which I made with thee ; he eateth 
grass as an ox ; his bones are as strong pieces of brass ; his 
bones are like bars of iron : he lieth under the shady trees, in 
the covert of the reed and fens. The shady trees cover him 
with their shadow : the willows of the brook compass him 
about. Behold he drinketh up a river ; he trusteth that he can 



DESCRIPTION OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 409 

draw up Jordan into his mouth. He taketh it with his eyes ; his 
nose pierceth through snares." 

The above grand and figurative language of the book of Job, 
seems particularly applicable to the hippopotamus, whom most 
people believe to be identical with the behemoth of the sacred 
writer. Indeed, in his " Systema Naturae," Linnasus ends his 
description of the hippopotamus with calling it the " Behemoth 

Jour 

The hippopotamus is generally distributed in the large rivers 
and lakes of Africa, from the confines of the Cape Colony to 
about the 22nd or 23rd degree of north latitude. It is found in 
none of the African rivers that fall into the Mediterranean, ex- 
cept the Nile, and in that part of it only which runs through 
Upper Egypt, or in the fens and lakes of Ethiopia. It is, how- 
ever, receding fast before civilization. It inhabits both fresh 
and salt water. 

Formerly, there is every reason to believe, it existed in parts 
of Asia ; but the species is now extinct on that continent. 

There are said to be two species of hippopotami in Africa, 
namely, the hippopotamus amphibius, and the hippopotamus Liberi- 
ensis — the latter being described as very much the smaller of 
the two ; but, to the best of my belief, I never fell in with it. 

The hippopotamus is a most singular-looking animal, and has 
not inaptly been likened to a " form intermediate between an 
overgrown hog and a high-fed bull without horns and with 
cropped ears." It has an immensely large head. Ray says the 
upper mandible is movable, as with the crocodile. Each of 
its jaws are armed with two formidable tusks ; those in the 
lower, which are always the largest, attain, at times, two feet 
in length. The inside of the mouth has been described by a 
recent writer as resembling " a mass of butcher's meat." The 
eyes — which Captain Harris likens " to the garret windows of a 
Dutch cottage" — the nostrils and ears, are all placed nearly on the 
same plane, which allows the use of three senses, and of respira- 
tion, with a very small portion of the animal being exposed 
when it rises to the surface of the water. The size of its body 
is not much inferior to that of the. elephant ; but its legs are 
much shorter — so low, indeed, is the animal at times in the 
body, that the belly almost touches the ground. The hoofs are 
divided into four parts, unconnected by membranes. The skin, 
which is of nearly an inch in thickness, is destitute of covering, 
excepting a few scattered hairs on the muzzle, edges of the ears 
and tail. The color of the animal, when on land, is of a purple 
brown; but when seen at the bottom of a pool, it appears al- 



410 APPEARANC E S I Z E A C T I V I T Y . 

together different — viz., of a dark blue, or, as Dr. Burchell 
describes it, of a light hue of Indian ink. 

When the hippopotamus is enraged, its appearance is most 
forbidding and appalling, and I am not surprised to hear of 
people losing their presence of mind on being suddenly brought 
into contact with the monster, whose horrible jaws, when fully- 
distended, afford ample accommodation for a man. 1 

The size of the II. amphibius is enormous. The adult male 
attains a length of eleven or twelve feet, the circumference of 
its body being nearly the same. Its height, however, seldom 
much exceeds four-and-a-half feet. The female is a good deal 
smaller than the male, but in general appearance the sexes are 
nearly alike. 

The following dimensions of the female hippopotamus at the 
Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, may enable those who are 
curious in the matter to form some notion of the progressive 
growth of the animal — at least, in a state of confinement — 
when young : — 

On its arrival, July 22, 1854. At present, Jan., 1856. 
From nose to tip of tail . . 8ft. 4in. " 10ft. lin. 

Circumference of body ..71 " 89 

Height at shoulder ... 3 5 " 3 10 

The hippopotamus, when in the water — I won't say its 
" native element," for it seems to belong as much to the land 
as the deeps — swims and dives like a duck, and, considering its 
great bulk and unwieldiness of form, in a manner perfectly 
astonishing. When on terra Jirma, however, what with its dumpy 
legs and the weight they have to support, its progress is any- 
thing but rapid. 

" The hippopotamus, amidst the flood 
Flexile and active as the smallest swimmer, 
But on the bank ill-balanced and infirm." 

Even were the beast to charge — provided the locality was 
tolerably open — a man would have no great difficulty in getting 
out ©f its way. It is seldom met with at any considerable dis- 
tance from water, for which it instantly makes when disturbed. 

The hippopotamus is an herbaceous animal. Its chief food, in 

1 In an old painting at Hampton Court, representing the Last Judgment, the 
mouth of the hippopotamus is said to be figured as the entrance of " the place of 
the wicked." 



DISPOSITIO j\ F EARLESSNESS, 4-11 

the selection of which it appears rather nice, consists of grass, 
young reeds, and bulbous succulent roots. 

When the hippopotamus is located near cultivated districts, 
it is very destructive to plantations of rice and grain. Mr. 
Melly, in his description of the Blue and White Nile, informs 
us that the inhabitants of a certain island found themselves so 
plagued by these animals, that they were obliged to apply for 
troops to drive them away, which was responded to by a hun- 
dred soldiers being dispatched in pursuit of the marauders. Mr. 
Burckhardt, again, in his travels in Nubia, tells us that in 
Dongola, the " barnick" (the Arabic name for hippopotamus) 
is a dreadful torment, on account of its voracity, and the want 
of means, on the part of the natives, to destroy it. During the 
day it remains in the water, but comes on shore at night, destroy- 
ing as much by the treading of its enormous feet as by its 
voracity. 

The ravages of the hippopotamus would appear to be an old 
grievance ; for Sir Gardener Wilkinson, when speaking of the 
ancient Egyptians, says : — "Though not so hostile to men as the 
voracious crocodile, it was looked upon as an enemy, which they 
willingly destroyed, since the ravages it committed at night in 
the fields occasioned heavy losses to the farmer." 

Naturalists and others represent the hippopotamus as of a mild 
and inoffensive disposition. It may be so in regions where it is 
unacquainted with man ; but from the numerous unprovoked 
attacks made hj these animals on voyagers, and the very great 
dread entertained of them by the Bayeye, who, so to say, live 
amongst them, I am inclined to believe they are not quite such 
harmless animals as we are given to understand. In ascending 
the Teoge, I saw comparatively little of them, and used almost 
to ridicule the natives on account of the timidity they showed 
when these beasts made their appearance. But on my return 
journey, I very frequently encountered the hippopotamus. 
More than once I narrowly escaped with life, and found that 
the men had good reason to fear a contest wth this truly 
formidable animal. 

In regions not much visited by the European hunter and his 
destructive companion, the fire-lock, the hippopotamus appears 
as a comparatively fearless animal, not unfrequently abiding 
the approach of man, whom he apparently surveys with a 
curious and searching look, as much as to say: "Why this in- 
trusion upon my native haunts, which I have enjoyed in undis- 
turbed tranquillity from time immemorial?" But man is cruel, 
and by his relentless persecutions a nature, once so unsuspicious 



412 MEMOR Y G REGARIOUS HABITS. 

and confiding, is soon changed to that of the most timid and 
circumspective, causing the animal to take instant refuge in the 
water on hearing the least noise. 

The sagacity of the hippopotamus is very considerable. In- 
deed, if we are to credit the testimony of Plinius, the cunning 
and dexterity of this beast are so great that, when pursued, he 
will walk backwards in order to mislead his enemies. " The 
habits of the animal," says Dr. Andrew Smith, " are opposed to 
our becoming intimately acquainted with it ; yet, from what has 
been noticed of its adroitness in guarding against assailants, in 
avoiding pits dug purposely to entrap it, in conducting its young 
both in and out of the water, and in migrating from localities 
which it may have discovered are not to be longer held with- 
out serious danger to others not exposed to such inconveniences 
— even though to reach those it may require to make long jour- 
neys — are all evidences that it is far from the stupid animal it 
has been frequently described." 

It is asserted that if a hippopotamus be shot dead just after 
calving, the offspring will immediately make for the water, an 
element which it has never yet seen ! 

Its memory is also considered good. " When once a hippopo- 
tamus," says the author just quoted, "has been assailed in its 
watery dwelling, and injured from incautiously exposing itself, 
it will rarely be guilty of the same indiscretion a second time ; 
and though its haunts may not again be approached by hunters 
till after a long period has elapsed, it will survey such ap- 
proaches, and perform the movements necessary for its respi- 
ration with a degree of caution, which clearly shows that it has 
not forgotten the misfortunes to which an opposite course had 
exposed it." 

The hippopotamus is gregarious, and is usually found in troops 
of from five or six, to as many as twenty or thirty. It is 
amusing to watch these animals when congregated ; to see them 
alternately rising and sinking as if impelled by some invisible 
agency ; in the while snorting most tremendously, and blowing 
the water about in every direction. At others, they will remain 
perfectly motionless near the surface, with the whole, or part, 
of their heads protruding. In this position, they look, at a little 
distance, like so many rocks. 

The hippopotamus is a nocturnal animal, and seldom or never 
feeds except during the night. He usually passes most part of 
the day in the water; but it is somewhat doubtful if this be rfot 
rather from necessity than choice. Indeed, in more secluded 
localities, one most commonly sees it reclining in some retired 



NOCTURNAL HABIT S D OMESTICATION 



413 



spot: — " He lieth under the shady trees, in the covert of the 
reeds and fens. The shady trees cover him with their shadows, 
the willows of the brook compass him about." Or it may be 
under shelter of an overhanging dry bank ; or, at least with its 
body partially out of the water. I have not unfrequently found 
the animal in this situation, and once shot an immense fellow 
while fast asleep with his head resting on the bank of the river. 

When, from fear of enemies, the hippopotamus is compelled 
to remain in the water throughout the day, it takes the shore 
on the approach of night in order to feed. Just as it emerges 
into the shallows, it has the peculiar habit of performing some 
of the functions of nature, during which it keeps rapidly thump- 
ing the surface of the water with its stumpy tail, thereby creat- 
ing a very great noise. I have known from twenty to thirty 
hippopotami thus occupied at once ; and, to add to the din, 
they would at the same time grunt and bellow to such a degree 
as to deprive our party of the rest that exhausted nature but 
too well needed. 

During the nocturnal excursions of the hippopotamus on 
land, it wanders at times to some distance from the water. On 
one occasion the animal took us by surprise ; for, without the 
slightest warning, it suddenly protruded its enormous head 
within a few feet of our bivouac, causing every man to start to 
his feet with the greatest precipitation, some of us, in the con- 
fusion, rushing into the fire and upsetting the pots containing 
our evening meal. 

The hippopotamus would seem to be easily domesticated. 
We may judge so, at least, from the fine specimens now in the 
Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, which are as manageable 
as most of the larger animals of that magnificent establish- 
ment. Though these are the first living specimens that ever 
found their way into England, the ancient Romans (who, 
during their conquests in Northern Africa, became acquainted 
with the hippopotamus) held them in captivity. This may be 




414 F L E S H H I D E T E E T H . 

safely inferred ; for, "on a medal of the Emperor Philip, or, 
rather, of his Queen Otacilla Severa, is a very striking likeness 
of a young, and, perhaps, hungry hippopotamus, designed by 
some Wyon of the day. This is, perhaps, the earliest good 
figure of the creature ; and its representation on such a place 
shows in what estimation, as a novelty, it was held." 

For the information of the curious in these matters, I may 
mention, that the food of the larger of the hippopotami now 
in the Regent's Park Gardens, when first shipped at Alexan- 
dria, in 1850, and when yet comparatively a " baby," consisted 
of the milk of two cows and three goats. This quantity, how- 
ever, until supplemented with Indian corn-meal, was found 
insufficient to satisfy his voracity. On his arrival at the gar- 
dens, " oatmeal was substituted for Indian corn ; and the change, 
with an extra supply of milk, seemed to give the gigantic 
infant great satisfaction." By degrees vegetable diet was sup- 
plied instead of milk ; and, at the present day, the animal is 
fed on clover, hay, corn, chaff, bran, mangel-wurzel, carrots, and 
white cabbage. The three last-named vegetables constitute his 
most favorite food. On this (1 cwt. being his daily allowance) 
he thrives wonderfully, a proof of which is, that since his 
arrival (he then weighed about one thousand pounds) he has 
increased more than a ton in weight. 

The flesh of the hippopotamus is highly esteemed, and with 
justice, for it is very palatable. The tongue is reckoned a deli- 
cacy ; and the fat (" speck," as it is termed by the colonists) 
is very excellent, and forms a capital substitute for butter. In 
general, both flesh and fat of wild animals have a peculiar, and 
often strong flavor, but that of the hippopotamus is an excep- 
tion. 

The hide is also in much request, and forms no mean arti- 
cle of commerce in the Cape Colony. As already mentioned, 
it is chiefly converted into " shamboks." In Northern Africa 
the hide is used as whips for the dromedary ; as also for pun- 
ishing refractory servants. The ancient Egyptians employed 
it largely in the manufacture of shields, helmets, javelins, 
etc. 

But the most valuable part of the hippopotamus is its teeth, 
(canine and incisors), which are considered greatly superior to 
elephant-ivory, and when perfect, and weighty — say from five 
to eight pounds each — have been known to fetch as much as 
one guinea per pound. It is chiefly used for artificial teeth, for 
which purpose it is particularly well adapted, since it does not 
readily turn yellow, as is frequently the case with elephant- 



MEDICINAL VIRTUES. 415 

ivory ; as also for instruments, knife-handles, and a variety of 
other purposes. 

Medicinal virtues are attributed to certain parts of the body 
of the hippopotamus. According to Thunberg, the processus 
rnamillaris of this animal is an effectual remedy for the stone 
and gravel; and "the fat" — says Kolben — "is reckoned an 
excellent thing against a surfeit and a redundancy of humors in 
the body." 



CHAPTER XLI. 

THE BAYEYE HARPOON THE HIPPOPOTAMUS THE HARPOON DESCRIBED 

HOW THE CHASE OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS IS CONDUCTED BY THE BA- 
YEYE HOW IT WAS CONDUCTED BY THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS THE 

SPEAR USED BY THEM FEROCITY OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED BY 

GUNS FRIGHTFUL ACCIDENT THE DOWNFALL. 

On the Teoge, and other rivers to the northward of Ngami, 
the natives are accustomed to harpoon the hippopotamus in 
a somewhat similar manner as that practiced with the whale. 
I will endeavor to describe the process, which, singularly 
enough, has never to my knowledge been done by any traveler. 




HIPPOPOTAMUS HARPOON. 



The harpoon (of iron), a, is, as seen in the above diagram, 
short and strong, and provided with a single barb, b. The 
shaft, or handle, c c, consists of a stout pole from ten to 
twelve feet in length, by three or four inches in thickness. At 
the inner end of the shaft, c c, is a socket for the reception of 
the harpoon, a ; which is further secured to the shaft (at about 
one-third from the socket) by a number of small cords, e e. 1 



1 The object of having the connecting line to consist of a number of small 
cords, instead of a single stout one, is to reduce the chance of its being severed 
by the teeth of the hippopotamus. 



HOW THE CHASE IS CONDUCTED. 4L7 

These cords, when the animal is struck, and a strain conse- 
quently comes upon them, relax, so as to allow the harpoon to 
slip out of the socket, though, of course, it still remains attached 
to the shaft. To the other extremity of the handle is fixed the 
harpoon-line, f, which is strong, and of considerable length ; 
and, to the end of this, a "float" or " buoy," g. From the 
weight of the shaft, the harpoon is seldom or never hurled at 
the hippopotamus, but is held by the harpooner, who drives it 
either vertically or obliquely into the body of the animal. 

Sometimes the chase is conducted with canoes alone ; at 
others, in connection with a " reed-raft," similarly constructed 
to that recently described. We will suppose the latter plan is 
adopted. At the appointed time, the men assemble at the ren- 
dezvous ; and, after everything has been duly arranged, and the 
canoes, needed for the prosecution of the hunt, drawn up on 
the raft, the latter is pushed from the shore, and afterwards 
abandoned entirely to the stream, which propels the unwieldy 
mass gently and noiselessly forward. 

Hippopotami are not found in all parts of the river, but only 
in certain localities. On approaching their favorite haunts, the 
natives keep a very sharp look-out for the animals, whose pres- 
ence is often known by their snorts and grunts, whilst splashing 
and blowing in the water, or (should there be no interruption to 
the view) by the ripple on the surface, long before they are 
actually seen. 

As soon as the position of the hippopotami is ascertained, one 
or more of the most skillful and intrepid of the hunters stand 
prepared with the harpoons ; whilst the rest make ready to 
launch the canoes, should the attack prove successful. The 
bustle and noise caused by these preparations gradually subside. 
Conversation is carried on in a whisper, and every one is on the 
qui-vive. The snorting and plunging become every moment more 
distinct ; but a bend in the stream still hides the animals from 
view. The angle being passed, several dark objects are seen 
floating listlessly on the water, looking more like the crests of 
sunken rocks, than living creatures. Ever and anon, one or 
other of the shapeless masses is submerged, but soon again makes 
its appearance on the surface. On, on, glides the raft with its 
sable crew, who are now worked up to the highest state of ex- 
citement. At last, the raft is in the midst of the herd, who 
appear quite unconscious of danger. Presently, one of the ani- 
mals is in immediate contact with the raft. Now is the critical 
moment. The foremost harpooner raises himself to his full 
height to give the greater force to the blow, and, the next in- 
27 



418 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS IS STRUCK 



stant, the fatal iron descends with unerring accuracy in the body 
of the hippopotamus. 



l§§i 



„J§lIillL 

. ■ . ■ ■ .■.-■■■ 



■ ■-■"■ ■ 




THE REED-RAFT AND HARPOONERS. 



The wounded animal plunges violently, and dives to the bot- 
tom ; but all his efforts to escape are unavailing. The line, or 
the shaft, of the harpoon may break. ; but the cruel barb, once 
imbedded in the flesh, the weapon (owing to the thickness and 
toughness of the beast's hide) cannot be withdrawn. 

As soon as the hippopotamus is struck, one or more of the 
men launch a canoe from off the raft, and hasten to the shore 
with the harpoon-line, and take a " round turn" with it about a 
tree, or bunch of reeds, so that the animal may either be " brought 
up " at once, 1 or, should there be too great a strain on the line, 
" played" (to liken small things to great) in the same manner as 
the salmon by the fisherman. But if time should not admit of 
the line being passed round a tree, or the like, both line and 
" buoy" are thrown into the water, and the animal goes where- 
soever he chooses. 



THE SPEAR. 

1 Tie accompanying plate represents a hippopotamus in this position. 







■(St- 



HE DIES. 421 

The rest of the canoes are now all launched from off the raft, 
and chase is given to the poor brute, who, so soon as he comes 
to the surface to breathe, is saluted with a shower of light 
javelins, of which the above wood-cut is a sample. Again he 
descends, his track deeply crimsoned with gore. Presently — 
and perhaps at some little distance — he once more appears on 
the surface, when, as before, missiles of all kinds are hurled at 
his devoted head. 

When thus beset, the infuriated beast not unfrequently turns 
upon his assailants, and either with his formidable tusks, or with 
a blow from his enormous head, staves in, or capsizes the canoes. 
At times, indeed, not satisfied with wreaking his vengeance on 
the craft, he will attack one or other of the crew, and, with a 
single grasp of his horrid jaws, either terribly mutilates the poor 
fellow, or, it may be, cuts his body fairly in two ! 

The chase often lasts a considerable time. So long as the line 
and the harpoon hold, the animal cannot escape, because the 
" buoy" always marks his whereabout. At length, from loss of 
blood or exhaustion, Behemoth succumbs to his pursuers. 

It is a remarkable fact that almost the same method of securing 
the hippopotamus, as that just described, was adopted by the 
ancient Egyptians. 1 

" The hippopotamus," says Diodorus, " is chased by many 
persons, each armed with iron javelins. As soon as it makes its 
appearance at the surface of the water, they surround it with 
boats, and closing in on all sides they wound it with blades, 
furnished with iron barbs, and having hempen ropes fastened to 
them, in order that, when wounded, it may be let out, until its 
strength fails it from loss of blood." 

The many drawings relating to the chase, etc., of the hippo- 
potamus, to be found on the sculptures and monuments of 
Thebes, would seem to prove that the ancient Egyptians greatly 
delighted in this kind of sport. One of these representations is 
shown on the next page, and has been borrowed from that 
valuable work, " The Manners and Customs of the Ancient 
Egyptians," by Sir Gardner Wilkinson, who thus explains the 
very interesting illustration : 

" The chasseur is here in the act of throwing the spear at the 
hippopotamus, which he has already wounded with three other 



1 In some parts of ancient Egypt the hippopotamus was worshiped. It is also 
said to have been a representation of Typho (in connection with the crocodile) and 
Mars. According to Plutarch, it " was reckoned amongst the animals emblematic 
of the Evil Bein<?." 



422 



EGYPTIANS AND HIPPOPOTAMUS 




blades, indicated by the ropes he holds in his left hand ; and 
having pulled the animal towards the surface of the water, an 
attendant endeavors to throw a noose over its head, as he strikes 
it for the fourth time. Behind him is his son, holding a fresh 
spear in readiness ; and in order that there should be no ques- 
tion about the ropes belonging to the blades, the fourth is seen 
to extend from his hand to the shaft of the spear he is throw- 
ing. The upupa, heron, and other birds are frightened from 
the rushes as the boat approaches ; and the fish, with a young 
hippopotamus, seen at the bottom of the water, are intended 
to show the communication of the fenny lake with the Nile." 

li The spear they used on these occasions was evidently of a 
different construction from that intended for ordinary purposes, 
and was furnished, as Diodorus observes, with a rope for let- 
ting out the wounded animal, in the same manner as practiced 
by the modern Ethiopians j 1 there was sometimes another line 



1 Sir Gardner "Wilkinson informs ns farther, that the inhabitants at Sennaar 
still follow up the practice of their ancestors, and, like them, prefer chasing it in 
the river to an open attack on shore. 



THE SPEAR AND REEL 



423 




fastened to the shaft, and passing over a notch at its upper end ; 
which was probably intended to give the weapon a great impe- 
tus, as well as to retain the shaft when it left the blade. The 
rope attached to the blade was wound upon a reel, generally 




carried by some of the attendants. It was of very simple con- 
struction, consisting of a half ring of metal, by which it was 
held, and a bar turning in it, on which the line or string was 
wound." 

Again : " This weapon," alluding to the harpoon, " consisted 
of a broad flat blade, furnished with a deep tooth or barb at the 
side, having a strong rope of considerable length attached to its 
upper end, and running over the notched summit of a wooden 
shaft which was inserted into the head or blade like a common 
javelin. It was thrown in the same manner ; but, on striking, 
the shaft fell, and the iron head alone remained in the body of the 



424 FEROCITY OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 

animal, which, on receiving a wound, plunged into deep water, 
the rope having been immediately let out. When fatigued 
by exertion, the hippopotamus was dragged to the boat, from 
which it again plunged, and the same was repeated till it be- 
came perfectly exhausted ; frequently receiving additional 
wounds, and being entangled by other nooses which the attend- 
ants held in readiness as it was brought within their reach." 

To return. If the hippopotamus hunt, as just described by me, 
was conducted altogether from the reed-raft, one's personal 
safety would be little, or not at all, endangered ; for, on account 
of the great size, buoyancy and elasticity of the raft, the animal, 
however wickedly inclined, could neither " board" nor capsize 
it. But when one pursues him in a canoe — though far the most 
exciting way — the peril, as shown, is considerable. One morn- 
ing, when descending the Teoge, we met a party of hippo- 
potami-hunters, one of whose canoes had been upset by one of 
those animals, whereby the life of a man was sacrificed. Indeed, 
similar mishaps are of constant occurrence on that river. 

Our own safety, moreover, was considerably jeopardized by 
a hippopotamus. One afternoon, about an hour before sunset, 
I sent a canoe with several men in advance, to look out for a bi- 
vouac for the night, and to collect fuel. They were scarcely 
out of sight, when an immense hippopotamus, with its calf, 
rushed out from amongst the reeds, where she had been con- 
cealed, and passing under our raft, almost immediately after- 
wards made her appearance on the surface of the water. Upon 
seeing this I lost no time in firing ; but, though to all appear- 
ance mortally wounded, we lost sight of her at the time. A 
few minutes afterwards, however, on coming to a bend of the 
river, we fell in with the canoe that had been sent on, bottom 
uppermost ; and found, to our great consternation, that the 
wounded beast, in going down the stream, had caught sight of 
the canoe, and instantly attacking it, had with one blow of her 
head, capsized it. The men saved themselves by swimming, but 
all the loose articles were either lost or spoiled by the water. 
Fortunately for me, however, I had taken the advice of the Ba- 
yeye to remove the most valuable of my things, such as books, 
instruments, etc., to the raft, previous to the canoe leaving. 

Innumerable instances, showing the ferocity of the hippopota- 
mus, are on record. " Lieutenat Vidal," says Captain Owen, 
in his Narrative of Voyages, and when speaking of the river 
Temby, "had just commenced ascending this stream in his 
boat, when suddenly a violent shock was felt from underneath, 
and in another moment a monstrous hippopotamus reared itself 



KILLED BY GUNS. 425 

up from the water, and, in a most ferocious and menacing 
attitude, rushed, open-mouthed, at the boat — and, with one 
grasp of its tremendous jaws, seized and tore seven planks from 
her side ; the creature disappeared for a few seconds, and then 
rose again, apparently intending to renew the attack, but was 
fortunately deterred by the contents of a musket discharged in 
its face. The boat rapidly filled, but as she was not more than 
an oar's length from the shore, the crew succeeded in reaching 
it before she sank. The keel, in all probability, touched the 
back of the animal, which, irritating him, occasioned the furious 
attack ; and, had he got his upper-jaw above the gunwale, the 
whole broadside must have been torn out. The force of the 
shock from beneath, previously to the attack, was so violent 
that her stern was almost lifted out of the water, when the 
midshipman steering was thown overboard; but, fortunately, 
rescued before the irritated animal could seize him." 

Injustice, however, to the poor hippopotamus, who, in these 
parts, has already earned for itself a sufficiently bad name for 
ferocity, one must not attribute the whole of the casualties that 
occur on the Teoge to willful attacks on the part of the animal ; 
for, owing to the narrowness of the stream, it, doubtless, at 
times, happens that, on coming to the surface to breathe, it 
accidentally encounters a canoe, and, in its fright, or, it may be, 
in playful frolic, upsets it. 

The colonists, and others, who are possessed of guns, most 
commonly shoot the animal from the shore ; and this is not a 
matter of any great difficulty, for when it comes to the surface, 
either to breathe or for amusement, " a single shot through or 
under the ear," as Captain Harris truly says, " is fatal to the 
Behemoth." If there are several "gunners," and they station 
themselves on opposite sides of the pool where the hippopo- 
tami are congregated (in which case the animals, when rising 
to the surface, invariably come within range of one or other of 
the party), great slaughter may be committed. 

Should the hippopotamus be killed outright, it usually sinks ; 
but in about half a day reappears at the surface ; and, in order 
eventually to secure the carcass, it is only necessary to keep a 
sharp look-out in the stream below. 

Shooting the hippopotamus from the shore is attended with 
but little danger. Accidents, however, do at times occur. 

" A native," says Mr. Moffat, " with his boy, went to the river 
to hunt sea-cows. Seeing one at a short distance below an 
island, the man passed through a narrow stream to get nearer to 
the object of his pursuit. He fired, but missed ; when the ani- 



426 THE DOWNFALL. 

mal immediately made for the island. The man, seeing his 
danger, ran to cross to the opposite bank of the river ; but, before 
reaching it, the sea-cow seized him, and literally severed his 
body in two with its monstrous jaws." 

Various devices are resorted to by the natives of Southern 
Africa to destroy the hippopotamus. At times, he is entrapped 
in pit-falls. But the most ingenious plan, and which will be 
readily understood by the accompanying wood-cut, is by means 
of the downfall, which the natives would seem to practice with 
considerable success. 

a is Behemoth, b, a downfall, consisting of a log of wood, 
c c, stones attached to the downfall, to increase its weight, d, 
the harpoon affixed to the lower end of the downfall, e, a tree, 
or, in lieu of it, an artificial support of about twenty-five feet 
in height, f f, a -line attached to the downfall, which, after 
having been passed over a branch of the tree or artificial sup- 
port, crosses horizontally the path-way that the hippopotamus 
is in the habit of frequenting during his nocturnal rambles. 
When the animal (which, from the shortness of his legs, lifts 
his feet but little from the ground) comes in contact with the 
line, secured on either side of the path by a small peg, it at once 
snaps, or is disengaged by means of a trigger. The liberated 
downfall instantly descends, and the harpoon is driven deep into 
the back of the beast, who, wounded and bloody, rushes with 
pain and fury to the nearest water, where he shortly dies. His 
death is sometimes hastened by the iron being poisoned. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

RETURN TO THE LAKE THE AUTHOR STARTS FOR NAMAQUA-LAND TO 

PROCURE WAGONS NIGHT ADVENTURE WITH A LION DEATH OF THE 

BEAST SUFFERINGS OF THE AUTHOR. 

After about a month's absence, I returned in safety to the Lake, 
and was delighted to find that affairs were going on prosperously 
at my camp. My men, however, complained much of the beg- 
ging and pilfering of the natives. They had also been greatly 
annoyed by Lecholetebe, who was one of the first persons I 
encountered on my arrival. I had long been puzzling my 
brains how I could most effectually pay off the chief for his 
treachery, and had resolved to assume an angry and dissatisfied 
air ; but a glance at his smooth, sly, smiling face was sufficient 
to mollify every feeling of resentment ; and when, with the most 
innocent look, he inquired if I had seen Libebe, and if I felt 
satisfied with the trip in general, my anger was turned p into 
mirth, and I burst into a hearty laugh. This was all my cunning 
friend wanted : he seemed like one resting complacently on a 
profound sense of his own merits, and waiting to receive the 
thanks and praises which he felt to be his due. 

When stopped so unexpectedly in my exploring career by the 
artifices of Lecholetebe, I made up my mind to return forthwith 
to the Cape, partly for the purpose of obtaining a fresh outfit, 
and partly to procure boats suitable to navigate the Ngami and 
its water-sheds, and then return to the Lake to follow up my 
discoveries But it was not to be. 



430 DEPARTURE FOR NAM AQUA-LAND. 

As the reader will probably remember, I reached the Ngami 
by means of pack-and-ride oxen ; but I had found this mode of 
traveling so exceedingly inconvenient, that I almost dreaded a 
renewal of it. Moreover, my collection of ivory, specimens of 
natural history, curiosities, etc., had by this time so increased, 
that I found my few remaining half-broken-in cattle altogether 
inadequate to the task of conveying me and my stores to the 
Cape. A wagon had become absolutely necessary ; and the 
only possible way of obtaining one was to return to Namaqua- 
land, where, should my man Eyebrecht not have such a vehicle 
at my disposal, I was in hope of being able to borrow one from 
the natives. To insure dispatch, although I stood sadly in 
need of rest and quiet, I determined on undertaking the 
journey. 

After about a week's stay at Batoana-town, I set out for 
Namaqua-land on the 10th of September, accompanied by 
only one man, leaving Timbo in charge of the camp in my 
absence. 

Before I returned to the Lake, and was fairly on my way 
home, four months had elapsed ; but, though this portion of my 
travels was not devoid, of interest, the volume has already 
swelled to such a bulk, that I must content myself with relating 
merely one striking incident that befell me, and a few general 
remarks. 

Journeying in a very lonely part of the country, and only 
accompanied by a single native, I arrived, one day, at a foun- 
tain, situated in a defile between some craggy rocks. The water 
issued from different parts amongst these cliffs, forming little 
pools here and there ; and, though the place was difficult of 
access, elephants, and other large game, were in the habit of 
flocking to the water nightly. As the stony nature of the 
ground afforded excellent "ambuscades," and being much in 
want of provision, I determined to watch the pools in question, 
for a night or two. 

The first night was a failure ; but in the second, I succeeded 
in killing a white rhinoceros. After this, though I watched 
long and well, nothing appeared, and at last sleep overtook me. 
How long I slumbered I know not; but on a sudden I thought, 
or dreamt, that I was in danger. From much night-watching, 
my hearing and sight had gradually acquired such an acuteness, 
that, even in sleep, I was able to retain a certain consciousness 
of what was passing around me ; and it is probable that I was 
indebted to this remarkable faculty for the preservation of my life 



ADVENTURE AT THE SKARM. 431 

on the present occasion. At first, I could not divest myself of fear ; 
and, for a while, my senses were too confused to enable me to 
form any accurate notion of the imagined danger. Gradually, 
however, consciousness returned, and I could distinctly hear 
the breathing of an animal close to my face, accompanied by a 
purr like that of a cat. I knew that only one animal existed 
in these parts, capable of producing the sound; and at once I 
came to the conclusion that a lion was actually stooping over 
me. 

If a man had ever cause for dread, I think I certainly had on 
this occasion. I became seriously alarmed. My first impulse 
was to get hold of my gun, which was lying ready cocked im- 
mediately before me, and the next to raise myself partially from 
my reclining position. In doing so, I made as little noise as 
possible; but slight though it might be, it was sufficient to at- 
tract the notice of the beast who uttered a gruff kind of growl, 
too well known to be misunderstood. Following with my eyes 
the direction of the sound, I endeavored to discover the lion, 
but could only make out a large dark mass looming through 
the night-mist. Scarcely knowing what I was about, I in- 
stinctively leveled my gun at the beast. My finger was on the 
trigger; for a moment I hesitated ; but, by a sudden impulse, 
pulled it, and the next instant the surrounding rocks rang with 
the report, followed by roarings from the beast, as if in the 
agonies of death. Well knowing what a wounded lion is capable 
of, and how utterly helpless I was, I regretted my rashness. 
The wounded beast, who at times seemed to be within a few 
paces of the " skarm," and at others at some little distance, was 
rolling on the ground, and tearing it up, in convulsive agonies. 
How long this struggle between life and death lasted is hard to 
say, but to me it appeared an age. Gradually, however, and to 
my great relief, his roars and moans subsided, and after a while 
ceased altogether. 

Dawn at length appeared : but it was not until after some 
time, and then with much caution, that I ventured to ascertain 
the fate of the lion, who, to my great satisfaction, I found dead 
within fifty yards of my place of concealment. The beast was 
of an average size ; but, unfortunately, the hyaenas and jackals 
had played sad havoc with his skin. 

Some time previously, my men, Eyebrecht and Klaas Zaal, 
had also shot a lion in this identical spot; but owing to his 
fearful growls, whilst dying, they thought it best to decamp at 
once without ascertaining his fate. 



432 



SUFFERINGS OF THE AUTHOR. 



During the four months that I was absent from my men, I 
traveled either alone or accompanied by a single native, some- 
times on foot, and at others on horse-back or ox-back, over up- 
wards of a thousand miles of country, parts of it emulating the 
Sahara in scarcity of water and general inhospitality. Tongue 
is too feeble to express what I suffered at times. To say nothing 
of narrow escapes from lions and other dangerous beasts, I was 
constantly enduring the cravings of hunger and the agonies of 
thirst. Occasionally, I was as much as two days without tast- 
ing food ; and it not unfrequently happened that in the course 
of twenty-four hours I could only once or twice moisten my 
parched lips. Sometimes I was so overcome by these causes, 
coupled with bodily fatigue, that I fainted. Once both my 
steed and myself (as seen in the sketch below) dropped down 
in the midst of a sand-plain, where we remained a long time in 
a state bordering on unconsciousness, and exposed to all the in- 
jurious effects of a tropical sun. I would at times pursue my 
course with a pained and listless step, scarcely knowing what 
I was about and staggering like a drunken man. "This," says 
Captain Messum, when speaking of the hardships he had under- 




AUTHOR AND STEED BROKEN DOWN. 

gone in a short tour into the interior of the west coast, "was 



SIGNAL STATION. 



433 



the pleasure of traveling in Africa. It requires the endurance 
of a camel and the courage of a lion." 




SIGNAL STATION AT CAPE-TPWN. 



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